Hi I have a 1994 saturn sc2. Im having some trouble with it. It has a low idle, when i put it in reverse or drive, it dies. These are the things i have changed-Both coil packs, spark plugs & wires, EGR valve, PCP valve, IAC Valve, and map sensor. I thought it may have been a blown head gasket, but my uncle checked it before i got the car and said that wasnt it. I was thinking it might be the coolant temprature sensor? Any ideas, please let me know!!!
I only have one question, does your SC2 use an Auto trans?
I know it's probably not related, but a few years back I had an econoline van that was rear-ended by a distracted driver on his cell phone, I didn't notice at the time, but my bolts that kept the drive shaft aligned had been knocked out of alignment, for some reason the van drove without any noticable problems for about 9000 miles. Then it died while my wife was driving it and AAA towed it back to our driveway.
You could start it up and it would run, but placing it into reverse or a drive gear stalled it every time, even though the van had surpassed the waranty, I took it to a Ford dealer just to verify the torque converter being bad, I even paid a local welder $50 to cut it open so I could see what made it fail, more than half the pressure plate springs were shattered and the spring "chunks" were acting like an abrasive slurry rubbing off the friction plates.
Since I don't know if you have an Auto trans, I'm just guessing a transmission problem and since I can't hear what sound it makes when it stalls, I can't determine what is going on at the time your engine stalls.
I HAVE A 1995 SATURN SC2....ONE OF MY "HIDDEN HEAD LIGHT MECHANISM WII NOT LIFT WHEN I PUT THE LIGHTS ON....DOES THIS SOUND LIKE A FUSE OR DOES IT SOUND LIKE SOMETHING MORE SERIOUS? THANK YOU!
I have a 96 Saturn Sl1 which has been doing a couple of things lately. The AC will cut off and back on during city driving. During Highway driving it will stay on. The car will aslo begin to overheat during city driving as well. I changed out the T-stat today, and checked to see if the fan would come on during idle. The car never really got up to temp, so I turn on the AC while in the driveway and then all of a sudden the temp started to climb. I plan to change out the fan motor and the AC relay switch to rule those out. Could something else be wrong with the AC that would cause it to cut in and out and also contribute to the temp to rise too high? Thanks Christopher
I have a 2000 SL1 that I bought in 2002 it had around 20000mi and now it has 109000. For the first 5 years all I had to replace was the reverse light switch (twice) about $40 for both and I had to replace the muffler clamp $15. This past year the car cost me the most. Most of it was normal wear n tear items (ty rod ends, ball joints and front wheel bearings.) The only engine work I had done was the intake gasket. $27 part and $300 in labor. By far this car has been one of the best I've owned. My other 2 best was an 82 Ford Escort and a 94 Ford ranger. This Saturn has gotten me 43 mpg and I average 39mpg even at 109000. I haven't had to deal with the dealership except for buying the muffler clamp from them cuz the after market items didn't fit.
My daughter has a '97 saturn and the air bag light comes on occasionally, her car has 100k + on it. Would the sensor need to be replaced or just dirty? Is it a simple fix? I appreciate any comments or related experience. Thanks
It could well be a fuse. There's one per headlight motor on this car. A 10 amp, look in the users manual for the slot number.
Do you know there is a manual override for the motor next to each headlight. You have to unplug the cable & there's something to twist until it's fully raised.
I had a wonderful accident with my 2001 SL while driving. both front springs snapped and took out both front tires. I had the two springs replaced with brand new ones, and both tires as well. While I was test driving the car after I aligned the front end, I noticed some moaning at the center of the steering circle so I checked my PS fluid level and it was really low, so I topped that up. I asked a local mechanic of there was a break-in period for new springs because I heard some tapping while going over some bumps and it was that case, but I also noticed when I was turning sharply at low speeds that there was a little creaking noise from the passenger side. It only happens when I am doing under 15mph, but it's absolutely silent if I go faster. I was wondering if it was a wheel bearing or a bushing, like a sway bar bushing or a strut rod bushing, but I don't know what to fix next. Any idea what it could be (I think it's not a wheel bearing because it's not doing anything out of the ordinary while driving straight ahead and there is no bumping, popping or "stones in the tire" sounds coming from the front end)
Sounds like a typical Constant Velocity joint. You described the first simple test a mechanic does to see if there is a popping sound on a slow sharp turn in either direction to find out if the joint needs attention. Next is boot check for that joint to see if it is leaking CV lube. Next replace worn CV joint. "Costly"?
your original problem with oil in the coolant was most likely a cracked head. I just wen't thru the same senario. The machine shop said the head was good but after the install I still had the same problem. So I pulled a head off another car wich I knew was good and poof problem solved. Now if your getting coolant in your oil it's probably a crack in the block. you said the engine came from a wreck. Was the car hit hard enough to damage the engine?
I have a 1998 SL2 and the brake and reverse lights do not work on the two back lights. The turn signals and lights work, just not reverse and the brake lights. All lights work on the third light in the rear window. Has anybody had this problem? Does anybody have any idea how to fix this problem?
I have a 99 Saturn sci 2 door coupe. On the dash there is a light that says "Service" and one that says "check engine" The "service"light stays on. I've had the car scanned for codes but nothing. There also is a little wrench on the side of the Service light? Since I don't have an owner's manual, I haven't a clue. any help or ideas?
Hi there, I anm haveing the same trouble. 1993 saturn, up shifts very hard, bangs the gears. did you have any luck with yours? I was told it was the valve body, replaced it, still does the same thing... thanks mike r. michigan :mad:
I replaced the valve body , as was suggested by a saturn trans tech. It did not help, still bangs all the gears, light on the gas pedal, still bangs the gears....foot on brake...shift from drive to reverse,,,bang,,,,bang...... help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:
michael rossbach metal model maker at saturn for 16 years, madison heights, mi
Lately when I start my car (SL2 – 2000) in the morning the Security light is flashing, Service Light is lit and the Service Engine Soon light is lit and the car turns over but won’t start. sounds like its out of gas. I have the passive security system only. So I turn the ignition switch to run over an over until the security light stops flashing then goes out. This is when the car starts approximately 3 to 5 min. worth of playing time. While the car warms the security light and the service light comes back on an the car runs with no problems. If I turn the car off and re start it the lights clear and don’t come back on. Went to auto zone while the lights were lit to check and there were no codes that come up.. Does any one know what this could be? Is this an easy fix or do I need to bring this to the dealer? Thanks for any help
My 2000 Saturn SW s-series has had TWO sets of front bearings replaced in the past year, and I think I'm starting to hear the high whine of the latest bearings already. Both repairs were done at a local repair shop that had the bearings pushed into the housing with the proper tools. Second set was totally replaced for no charge at all. I'm wondering if anyone else has had the problems like this. I bought the car last December with 134,000 miles it now has more than 150,000. Stripped down model...only perks are Automatic trans and A/C. I love the car otherwise. Should I forgo the local garage, where I've had all my car repairs done for more than 20 years, and go to a Saturn dealer instead? Any ideas? or comments? Greg
What you have going on is that your security system is not being turned off before you get into your vehicle. To turn it off use your keyless entry fob to unlock the vehicle. Why the lights turn on according to the owners manual is that to prvent someone from driving off with your vehicle while the security system is active it cuts off fuel to you injectors so the engine won't run. One way to disable it is to use the key in the ignition a certian way, which you have found how to do. If you don't have the fob then go to a Saturn dealership. The code have to be entered via the computer jack under the dashboard by the service department at the dealership.
I haven't had any bearing problems on my 2001 SC2 (80,000 miles, so far, so good) but had a similar problem some years ago on another front wheel drive vehicle. Are the bearings they're using, original manufacturer's bearings, or some other brand? The seals built into a bearing housing are critical to the life of the bearing; possibly an aftermarket bearing with less than optimum seals might be causing the problem. Sounds like, otherwise, they're doing everything right.
Going to the dealer for this, might be the best bet - despite higher cost, they're on the hook for the repair and have their brand's reputation to consider. Oh, yes....Get it done before Saturn goes bankrupt!!!
a brake line must be kill by rust, you can brake only with the rear wheel, the brake light came on to tell you there not enough brake fluid, by the sensor, in the bank. check all your brake line and repair, if not, it's probably the booster brake but on my saturn, it was a brake line
do you have ABS brake on your car if yes, the service key may light on to tell a malfunction in ABS sensor if not, take it to saturn dealer and make it scan
I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 and it sounds like I am experiencing the same sounds you describe in your posting. Could you tell me what the problem ended up being and waht the fix was.
I have a 96 SL2 and the wipers have a mind of their own. For years they would come on automatically,but only three or four times a year. Now its everytime I start the car. I think the cold weather in northern michigan has somthing to do with it. Any guidance would be appreciated.
This year I bought a 97 Saturn SW2 DOHC with 100,000 miles. Three days after I got it. I had to replace the harmonic balancer, I noticed oil level was going down. So I start looking around. I found a lot of oil in the coolant reservoir. I had the car for a month and never got hot. The temperature needle never goes more than 1/4. The service light is on all the time. A mechanic told me that I have to replace the valve cover gasket. So, I did. But that does not give me any warranty that oil won't come back to coolant reservoir. And I got the system flush because I know that the hoses could swell once oil gets in coolant system. Now I check the coolant reservoir and I had seen oil in there. But nothing like before. The car still runs good. No loose of power. Do you think that could be Cylinder Head Cracked? Or Temperature? Or there is any other explanation for this oil in coolant reservoir? ">
Sounds like head gasket is allowing oil feed to head to leak into coolant. Oil pressure (@ 30psi) would surpass coolant pressure (@15psi). Before doing major work suggest removing cam cover again and checking head bolts for proper torque in correct sequence (middle bolts first for instance). As any engine gets older the headbolts should be retorqued to proper readings on torque wrench. Gaskets on some engines shrink with age like "old people".
I agree with message #1384. The initial torque is 48 lbs with the treads dry. I wouldn,t go any more than that. You said that the service engine light was on. Did you ever have the trouble codes pulled from the computer? Most chain parts stores (Auto Zone ect.) will pull them. Also it is handy to have a manual. You will need it for the tightening sequence of the head bolts.
i have replaced just about every sensor there is in the car now its starting to shift hard the fliud is not low and it only shifts hard when im in low gear not sure what this is and my coolant level reads hot all the time
Just a quick question. Does anyone know why my 96 SL2 would start to overheat with the AC off, but does fine with the AC on? I haven't let it overheat, but it does rise to about half way or more if I would let it, if I turn my AC off. It's starting to get annoying and cold. I know the fan speed slows when the AC cuts off and picks up again when I turn it back on. please any suggestions? Possible a sensor or relay and if so which one?
My car is also doing that same problem that you responded about. Exact same. Ive replaced soo many things and Its still happening. What do you do to fix yours?? Please help me. Thanks so much in advance
My saturn does the exact same thing. No check engine light. I have replaced a whole bunch of parts and nothing has fixed it yet. WHAT DID YOU DO TO FIX YOUR PROBLEM??? Please help I am at my witts end im thinking about blowing it up. PLEASE HELP Thanks so much.
if the driving lights, the voltage to the lights are constantly available as they are also used to flash the lights when using the keyless system. There is a ground path that is switched to ground to turn them on. Just move the wires directly behind either light to find out which line got grounded. There is a wire splice with tape that caused my lights to stay on. I snipped off the protruding wire and re-taped.
1997 coupe.Front rotors will not come off.Are they rusted on or held on by bearings.I had a 1995 SL1 ,those rotors came off with no problem.Am I missing something? Any thoughts anyone?
How hard is it to replace the valve body for the transmission. The car seems to shift fine up until 4th gear, and bangs into reverse. I have read the forums, and have come up with it being either the PC control solenoid or the valve body. Is this difficult to replace?
Saturn brake discs are not held on other than by clamping forces generated by bolting on the wheels. I use a big gear puller and a torch to pull off the disks. The discs are not to be re-used when removed like this. They will be warped.
The job itself requires quite a number of procedures, none really too difficult. There are videos on YouTube that covers the procedure. Here is one I noted: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUSSj_2eHUY
I have done this job before on a 1995 sl1,no problem.The new rotors have M8 threaded holes for jack screws for removal.The old ones don't,What's holding these guys on,rust?
Comments
I know it's probably not related, but a few years back I had an econoline van that was rear-ended by a distracted driver on his cell phone, I didn't notice at the time, but my bolts that kept the drive shaft aligned had been knocked out of alignment, for some reason the van drove without any noticable problems for about 9000 miles. Then it died while my wife was driving it and AAA towed it back to our driveway.
You could start it up and it would run, but placing it into reverse or a drive gear stalled it every time, even though the van had surpassed the waranty, I took it to a Ford dealer just to verify the torque converter being bad, I even paid a local welder $50 to cut it open so I could see what made it fail, more than half the pressure plate springs were shattered and the spring "chunks" were acting like an abrasive slurry rubbing off the friction plates.
Since I don't know if you have an Auto trans, I'm just guessing a transmission problem and since I can't hear what sound it makes when it stalls, I can't determine what is going on at the time your engine stalls.
THANK YOU!
I changed out the T-stat today, and checked to see if the fan would come on during idle. The car never really got up to temp, so I turn on the AC while in the driveway and then all of a sudden the temp started to climb.
I plan to change out the fan motor and the AC relay switch to rule those out.
Could something else be wrong with the AC that would cause it to cut in and out and also contribute to the temp to rise too high?
Thanks
Christopher
For the first 5 years all I had to replace was the reverse light switch (twice) about $40 for both and I had to replace the muffler clamp $15. This past year the car cost me the most. Most of it was normal wear n tear items (ty rod ends, ball joints and front wheel bearings.) The only engine work I had done was the intake gasket. $27 part and $300 in labor. By far this car has been one of the best I've owned. My other 2 best was an 82 Ford Escort and a 94 Ford ranger. This Saturn has gotten me 43 mpg and I average 39mpg even at 109000. I haven't had to deal with the dealership except for buying the muffler clamp from them cuz the after market items didn't fit.
No complaints from me.
Do you know there is a manual override for the motor next to each headlight. You have to unplug the cable & there's something to twist until it's fully raised.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=richpin06a&view=videos
Next is boot check for that joint to see if it is leaking CV lube.
Next replace worn CV joint. "Costly"?
Thanks
thanks mike r. michigan :mad:
help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:
michael rossbach
metal model maker at saturn for 16 years, madison heights, mi
link title
Any ideas? or comments?
Greg
Going to the dealer for this, might be the best bet - despite higher cost, they're on the hook for the repair and have their brand's reputation to consider. Oh, yes....Get it done before Saturn goes bankrupt!!!
and see youtube or other video and see there a lot of saturn making more dans 200k mile and still running good
if yes, the service key may light on to tell a malfunction in ABS sensor
if not, take it to saturn dealer and make it scan
I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 and it sounds like I am experiencing the same sounds you describe in your posting. Could you tell me what the problem ended up being and waht the fix was.
Thanks
Brian
Before doing major work suggest removing cam cover again and checking head bolts for proper torque in correct sequence (middle bolts first for instance).
As any engine gets older the headbolts should be retorqued to proper readings on torque wrench. Gaskets on some engines shrink with age like "old people".
Dave
-jeff
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUSSj_2eHUY