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Any help would be appreciated
3 weeks ago I purchased a 95 Safari SLX, 2wd, 184 thousand kilometers, in very nice shape, no rust underneath or on the body paint in good shape, starts up well. I just replaced the rear shocks & rear tires, which helped reduce the spongy feel when i first drove it. Taking out the seats helped a bit also, as it will be used mainly for light duty work. I was told that the front shocks were fine ,,,, however , i still notice a spongy kinda feel at the front. Are there any recommended shocks & or springs to help stiffen up the front so it doesn’t feel as squishy ?? Also is there a sway bar avail to install for the rear ??
I have just had the transmission flushed & it seems to be working ok though there is a bit of kick between 1st & 2nd . It has also been idling a bit rough esp when its warmed up a bit, though it seems to have improved after I was actually able to light up the tires on the back ( not smoking, just squealing ) & raise the rpm up high,,,seemed to flush it out a bit , ( I don’t normally do this ,but just wanted to see what it would do off the line ) Not bad for a box! . lol , certainly more ummph than the 2.8 litre in the S10.
I have yet to get a Haynes manual so I can get to know things better & do a proper tune up on it ect.
Anyways just wanted to say I love my van so far, hope the money I put into it will be more towards a fine stereo & rims ,. My wife likes it very much also ,,. She has an outside door handle now ! lol
Anyways drive safe everyone,,,,,
Franky
YOU'LL MOST LIKELY NEED TO CUT THROUGH THE PLASTIC COVER BEHIND THE PANEL ENOUGH TO GET YOUR ARM OR PLYERS INSIDE.
YOUR LOOKING FOR A PENCIL SIZED SHAFT TOWARD THE MIDDLE OF THE 2 DOORS AND PULL IT DOWN.
THERE ARE TWO THERE ONE FOR THE LOCK AND ONE FOR THE HANDLE.
THIS SHOULD RELEASE THE DOOR.
I HAD TO DO MINE 3 YRS AGO, THAT'S WHY I AM A LITTLE VAGUE ON THE EXACT DETAILS.
CHECK PRIOR LISTING FOR OTHER DETAILS
John
I just bought a 1999 AWD Safari SLT with 99,000 KM on it, it is in excellent condition with a detailed maintenance history. Now I have never owned or driven an AWD and just want to see if some of the experiences I've had are NORMAL with AWD. It is very smooth running, excellent on the highways etc, however, when I am completely stopped and reverse into a relatively sharp turn (backing out of a parking stall), it seem to have a bit of a "shutter" (not sure if the properly discribes the sensation, but I don't know what to call it) or if I turn rather sharply from a stop I feel it. I doesn't do it if I am already travelling and turn, only from a complete stop. Other than that it is as smooth as can be. I spoke with a local mechanic and he said this was a characteristic with AWD, something to do with the power reaching all 4 wheels, but I am not convinced....is this normal, or do I have a problem here???? YIKES!! Thanks in advance for any help!! :surprise:
Any ideas appreciated, thanks, Jeff
bob
All you need is the book and the right tools (they loan you them at the parts store nowadays)
Could also be the battery is not fully charged.(dying)
There is a way to check the selonoid by bypassing it to check if it's the problem.
A chilton book will show this test.
But, if your not an mechanical person don't know if I would tell you to do it. Don't know your level of ability.
The only problem is that they usually rivet the motors into the door, so you have to replace them or use bolts to put the new one back in.
Just take the door panels off, remove the 3 rivets or whatever is holding the motor in place and replace it.
Another suggestion was to push the lights button 4 times, each time you start the van. I haven't tried that yet, but I prefer to shut them down to manual, if possible.
I appreciate the help!
Thanks
this did not work on 99. i did rent a newer astro when i was in FL and it did work.
Not sure if this helps. Following a brake job done on my 98 Safari ,by my local garage mechanic, which also included replacing the emergency brake cables on both sides. The back drum kept heating up while driving suggesting the cable spring needs replacing which it did and fixed the heating problem. He then suggested a tune up is needed. I did notice the idling was erratic / uneven, as you put it. He did the tune up and the idle did improve to a normal condition. I did notice on his itemized bill of sale, he included, not sure about this as I don’t have the paper work in front of me, but it surprised me he would list it, something about adjusting the high idle and low idle. I live in Massachusettes so I don’t know if listing this detail is a state requirement. If you need further info let me know and I could chat with him on what he did with the idle.
-gary
Wonder if they test drive the van down the road, following adjusting the idle, stopping at a red light the way we do and pay attention to the idle.
Any idea on what to check for??
Thank you all so much for reading my message.
John Glover, Belfast, Co Antrim, Northern Ireland.
power door locks work. keyless entry works. can hear hatch unlock and lock but will not open. went to local gmc dealer in town traveling through and was told they are book up with appointments until july 15th. any suggestions???? all luggage still in motel room .
maybe it may still pertain to a 2001 model
have a 1993 AstroEXT AWD that I bought new and have 102,000 miles on it now. I have written to this forum before, but have not found a solution to the problem of the dutch doors not opening. I have learned over the Labor Day weekend through my own personal trouble shooting and thought others might benefit for what I believe is the probable cause of this problem. I generally refer to Hayes repair manuals, but the dutch doors are not covered in this book.
In the right, rear compartment, where the jack is stored, there is a black plastic box (approx. 3.5"X2.5"X1") with a wiring harness plugged into it. I carefully opened this box and found a small circuit board containing two relays. One relay activates the solenoid to release the glass hatch and unlock the right dutch door. The other relay locks the right dutch door about 2 seconds after the the hatch is closed. The second relay had blackened contact points from arcing. It seemed that if the second relay failed to lock the right dutch door, then the first relay would not activate the solenoids to release the glass hatch. I carefully cleaned the contacts on both relays and also cleaned the the circuit board contacts where the wiring harness plugs into it. I have not had a failure since I did this, but if I do, I will replace the entire black box. I hope this helps all who have experienced this problem. Please write if you find the solution to this problem to be anything other than this.
Someone said its the fuel injector unit under the air-intake manifold, but the problem isn't all the time, goes away sometimes, but always at the exact same throttle position just off idle. Only code 300 displayed (ramdom cylinder misfire) Any ideas?????
I left the battery unhooked overnight, and now the SES light is gone. I understand the code may still be stored in memory, but I'm not going to worry too much about it. I imagine it has something to do with lean or rich from that upshift after the downshift stint, but I really believe it was an anomoly due to those particular conditions, or maybe a sensor was sticking.
If anyone has more ideas what happened, I'm still curious.
John
Which tire company do I go after? The one that put the wrong tires on to begin with and rotated them once? We have the purchase agreement with it listed that they should all be the 85 size. Or the one that put the 85 on the side with the 80.
Would the different sizes have done slow damage? Why would a donut be provided for a car that would destroy itself if it was driven 30 miles on the wrong size tire?
Do I go after both? Would the tire sizes add to the chance of the blow out on the tire to begin with? The tire was a shreded mess so we could not tell what happened to it.
Thanks for your comments.
my awd light stays on and i've looked every were to see what causes this,second my ses light comes on periodically mostly on an incline and when it happens my mpg goes way down. my passenger window wont work, and just recently my a/c - heater control panel just went out. can anybody tell me why my awd and ses lights come on or what cause them to come on? i'll never own a chevy van again.
Thanks! :sick: