Thanks windowphobe6 and rotarykid for the info - I think I'm going to ask my dealer to change the bulb (and I can bring rotarykid's rough price estimate to the dealer).
One more question though. I was also planning to get the timing belt changed for the car. I remember you all mentioned that it's a good idea to change one particular item along with the timing belt, was it the water pump?
When changing the timing belt, it is recommended that you change the cam sprocket seals, as well as the front crankshaft seal. Some also recommend changing the water pump and the belt tensioner. The reason for water pump replacement is simple - if it leaks later, you must remove the timing belt to replace it anyway, plus hot coolant may get on the timing belt. Changing the oil seals is done so that hot oil will not degrade the timing belt (in case a leak develops due to faulty seal). The timing belt tensioner is a critical component and replacing it when changing the belt would not be a bad idea.
The A/C just quit working on my 99 ES V6 with 82K miles. The compressor clutch would not engage. Fortunately, it was just a $ 28 relay. I bought a spare relay long time ago, but it took me a while to find out where the relay is located. It is in the fuse box in the engine compartment (one of four identical relays). Plugging in the new relay fixed the problem. This experience leads me to believe that these relays do fail and carrying a spare is a good idea. At least I did not have to go to a dealer and waste couple hundred dollars on unnecessary troubleshooting.
10w30 high mileage oil. I change it every 5,000 miles. I now have a rubbing noise coming from the rear wheels. I can silence it by puting on the emergency brake while moving, or tapping the brakes. My pads and rotors are pretty new. I'm wondering what could be rubbing. The noise harmonics start when the car has been driven for at least 1 mile, and then at 35 miles per hour.
Oddly enough, my maintenance regimen seems to be almost identical to p100's, except that I bend the 3000-mile rule during the summer, when I generally put on 4000 to 5000 miles in three weeks.
Have built up the center console arm-rest 3" and want to add a ski pole handle to shift lever. My question is Are the tops of your shift levers parrell with your arm-rests? Thanx
forgot to say that I use Mobil1 oil most of the time 10W-30 summer and 0W-20 winter(now in the car, we will see how it does) and 9000 miles interval with PureOne oil filter...I drive to much(>20k per year) to change oil every 3K and that is why I use synthetic, not to mention better protection that I get from it..and actually when you add up the numbers it comes out cheaper :-)))
My 1998 Mazda 626 (around 70,000 miles) loses power when the A/C is on and the driver changes into Park. When the car is in Drive or any other gear, there are no problems with the A/C. As soon as I switch to park with the A/C on, the RPM's go way down (the car almost dies) and barely stays on. Any suggestions? Much obliged.
There is a neutral safety switch that prevents the starter from operating when the shift lever of an automatic transmission is not in neutral or park. Engine control systems adjust idle speed based on several factors, which includes the position of the neutral safety switch and A/C compressor status.
It's possible that your car's computer is not getting the expected input when your A/C is on and your shift lever is in park, and is adjusting the idle speed improperly (due to a problem with a switch, sensor, or related wiring). It's also possible that the idle speed control valve or the computer itself could be the problem, but I think those would probably cause other idle speed issues as well.
i have a 00 lx v6 that has a problem with reading cd's. the cd player will play cd all the way thru but when you skip around it just hangs and nothing happens . you can hear it spinning around fast looking for something. i eject the cd and it very hot.this it does with any cd i put in it.never had this problem before..
Are these adjustable in our cars? I have 2000 626 V6 and I would like to adjust my cluch so it will release in lover half of the pedal travel distance. How would I do this? Thanks D
there is no clutch adjustment on the hydraulic clutch set-up. If your clutch grabs too high, it's due to a worn disc, if it grabs too low, you have a fluid problem at the release cylinder.
hm that is strange..shouldn't I be able to adjust it where wire from the pedal is attached to the trasmission? make it a bit longer so it would release lower? most of the cars I had before had that adjustment..
The type of clutch adjustment you are referring to can only be done on a cable operated clutch, which has a cable connecting the clutch pedal to the tranny. In a hydraulic setup, the clutch is connected directly to a master cylinder, thus there is no cable to adjust. No adjustments are possible on a hydraulic clutch.
I just did this after 83K miles. The old pads had about 20K miles left on them. Replacing the pads on this car is a very annoying job. The Mazda original pads come with new metal clips and spring clips, which are very difficult to install, along with the pads. I never had so much trouble installing new pads inside the front calipers on any car I ever owned. You must slide the spring clips under the pads after they are inside the caliper and clearances are very tight. The rotors were nice and smooth, so I just sanded them down slightly. The rear pads are next.
Wanted to post an update to the engine losing power with A/C on in park. Turns out the freon needed a recharge and fill. This solved the problem. Hope this helps someone out.
The 99 626 did not come with factory 16" wheels, but the 2000 model did. The specs are as follows for the 16" alloy wheel: 16x6.5, offset-45mm(1.77 inches), pitch cirlcle diameter 114.3mm(4.5inches).
you might want to check with a plumbing website to answer that question......lol.......PCV valves are usually changed every 30k whether they are needed or not. Just take it out and make sure it doesnt have oil sludge in it. A quick spray of carb/brake cleaner should clean it out fine. There should be a nice rattle sound that will tell you the valve is backed up.
I would love to change the other three switches so they could be auto-down like driver side window..is this possible to do and where could I get those auto-down switches?
Take the door panels off and lubricate the tracks. This will help some but Mazda windows seem to get slow with age. My 92 Miata's driver side window was so slow it looked like it would stop dead in its track but it operated that way for the 2 years I owned it and never quit.
As for the switches, it is possible but I don't know if anyone supplies them for the 626. I currently own a 1990 RX7 convertible which has no auto down feature at all. I found a website that sells an auto up and down master switch that operates both windows. I can make my RX7's windows operate like an Audi's for $150! Well worth it if you ask me. You can visit the website and maybe ask the guy if he could make one for you or point in the right direction. Here is the link:
2001 V6-LX automatic trans just crossed the 36k mile mark. Think it's time to decide whether to keep (and purchase an extended warranty) or trade. I heard the horror stories. Already have been through the rear clunk problem and trans hestitates sometimes. I've had no service done to trans yet. I'd probably take a $3,000 hit on trade but could make-up some of that on Focus(?) rebates. Any advice?
I currently have 63,500 miles on my ES/ V6 2001. I am in sales and do ALOT of driving. I have changed the transmission fluid every 30K. The automatic transmission shifts just fine. As a matter of fact, only one small issue to date. The relay that controlled the 2nd fan behind the radiator broke, the car would overheat only on real hot days here in So. Cal. The cost to repair-$20.00 for the part and $55.00 for labor!! The 4 cylinders have the Ford CD4E transmission. These transmissions are a poor design at best. I have a Contour with this transmission and it looks like it is giving out at 55K. I am picking it up at the shop today. I am not sure what I am going to do!
Hey, my 626 just passed 100,000 miles today. What a miracle!! 3 tranmissions, 2 rack and pinions, 3 radiators, 2 master cylinders....and on and on and on......The CEL doesn't even bother going off any more. This car will last until my emissions is due next March, or if one of the myriad of things breaks along the way. I refuse to put any money into this thing. I'm not even at 8 years yet, and it only beats out my Renault Encore (which lasted only 4 years) as the worst car I have ever owned.
guesstimate- 3 trans at $2,500.00ea = 7,500.00 2 rack & Pinon at $400.00ea= 800.00 3 radiators at $400.00ea 1,200.00 2 master cyls. at $150.00ea 300.00 9,800.00 Is this for real?????????????????????
Yes, it is for real, except that you are including the one each of the original equipment which came with the car. I am on my 3rd trans, 3rd radiator, and so on. Now for the bottom line to your estimates: My costs: $0 How's that for a $650 extended warranty?? I estimate that I put $3,500 of repairs on to their bill. I doubt that they made enough money in the stock market during the 7 years of the warranty to make up that difference. But now that the warranty is over, any more repairs come out of my pocket. Heck: even all 4 of my struts were leaking oil while I was still under the extended warranty, but I felt so bad, that I just went ahead and replaced them with my $$. Besides, towards the end, they kept sending a rep to inspect my car before they would grant any more repairs. I'm sure they would have tried to find a way out of the leaking struts somehow.
Well, even from this glass half empty guy, I don't see it as bad luck. I'm pretty darn lucky or smart to have bought the extended warranty. My friends wonder why I research my cars to the torturous degree that I do. Well, I can point to this extended warranty purchase as just another success story. I'd be really peeved if I had to eat these costs on top of owning this very poor car for only 8 years. It is having great resources like this website, and good folks like you who help educate us into better buying and repair decisions. Even my mechanic who I have been with for 10 years does not give out such great advice for free.
Max, I too pondered the pros+cons of betting on my car to fail...but decieded to take that extra payment and apply it elsewhere. You,on the other hand, kinda didn't behave like the insurance man would prefer you to act! They sure didn't make much profit off of you! Do you think next time you'll do the same or just stay away from 4cyl auto? Our Clutched 130 ponies has been hassel free for 4 years.
for a new mazda6...but get v6 and 5 spd this time! I test drove one yesterday... it really is a japanese BMW :-)...I just paid-off my 626 and I think I will like to be a year or two without car payment...
The sedan is just a sedan, and has poor rear leg room and does nothing more than be a sedan. The hatch is OK, but suffers from the same rear leg room. The Wagon I got in this weekend was OK, except that the rear legroom is once again anemic, and when I approached the car, I towered over it. As I go through my 40's now, I have no desire to shoe horn myself into the 6 or any other low to the ground contraption. The 6 wagon was also hard to get in and out of from a seated position in the rear. The doors are cut a bit low too, and you have to push your head down a bit to clear the opening. I did like the fact that the 6's Ford 6 cylinder engine allows me to change the oil myself. But it is a gas pig. No, for me, my top 3 (not in any order other than how I feel today) is:
1. The Ford Escape Hybrid (all new engine, tranny, and 4x4 system). It fits tall people very well; I have a commanding view of the road and all around me, and it will get 35 mpg in the city. I don't like the fact that it has a Ford stamp on the front of it, but I might take a gamble here 2. Malibu Maxx: this car simply screams value and versatility. As long as my GM friends can convince me that GM is solving the steering problem, it will be hard to turn away from this car, that also gets a combined 26 mpg 3. 2005 Pontiac Vibe: I own one already, and having two Corollas in the driveway, along with their versatility makes good economic sense. Skibry1: I was lucky on the extended warranty. I will have to consider another one if I buy the Maxx or Ford. I won't get one on the Pontiac Vibe since I don't believe that any Corolla components will ever fail me. I am against extended warranties in general, and would rather keep the money in my Swiss bank account for a day when I need a repair.
Comments
One more question though. I was also planning to get the timing belt changed for the car. I remember you all mentioned that it's a good idea to change one particular item along with the timing belt, was it the water pump?
Thanks again.
Probably saves twenty-five cents per car in labeling costs, though.
cruiser is f a r from corny!
Zoom/Zoom
Thanks!
want to add a ski pole handle to shift lever. My
question is Are the tops of your shift levers
parrell with your arm-rests? Thanx
It's possible that your car's computer is not getting the expected input when your A/C is on and your shift lever is in park, and is adjusting the idle speed improperly (due to a problem with a switch, sensor, or related wiring). It's also possible that the idle speed control valve or the computer itself could be the problem, but I think those would probably cause other idle speed issues as well.
Thanks
D
Would be grateful.
As for the switches, it is possible but I don't know if anyone supplies them for the 626. I currently own a 1990 RX7 convertible which has no auto down feature at all. I found a website that sells an auto up and down master switch that operates both windows. I can make my RX7's windows operate like an Audi's for $150! Well worth it if you ask me. You can visit the website and maybe ask the guy if he could make one for you or point in the right direction. Here is the link:
http://www.mazdamark.com/
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The 4 cylinders have the Ford CD4E transmission. These transmissions are a poor design at best. I have a Contour with this transmission and it looks like it is giving out at 55K. I am picking it up at the shop today. I am not sure what I am going to do!
I would have gotten rid of it. Let's see:
guesstimate-
3 trans at $2,500.00ea = 7,500.00
2 rack & Pinon at $400.00ea= 800.00
3 radiators at $400.00ea 1,200.00
2 master cyls. at $150.00ea 300.00
9,800.00
Is this for real?????????????????????
How's that for a $650 extended warranty?? I estimate that I put $3,500 of repairs on to their bill. I doubt that they made enough money in the stock market during the 7 years of the warranty to make up that difference. But now that the warranty is over, any more repairs come out of my pocket. Heck: even all 4 of my struts were leaking oil while I was still under the extended warranty, but I felt so bad, that I just went ahead and replaced them with my $$. Besides, towards the end, they kept sending a rep to inspect my car before they would grant any more repairs. I'm sure they would have tried to find a way out of the leaking struts somehow.
you to act! They sure didn't make much profit off of you! Do you think next time you'll do the same or just stay away from 4cyl auto? Our Clutched 130 ponies has been hassel free for 4 years.
I test drove one yesterday... it really is a japanese BMW :-)...I just paid-off my 626 and I think I will like to be a year or two without car payment...
The sedan is just a sedan, and has poor rear leg room and does nothing more than be a sedan. The hatch is OK, but suffers from the same rear leg room. The Wagon I got in this weekend was OK, except that the rear legroom is once again anemic, and when I approached the car, I towered over it. As I go through my 40's now, I have no desire to shoe horn myself into the 6 or any other low to the ground contraption. The 6 wagon was also hard to get in and out of from a seated position in the rear. The doors are cut a bit low too, and you have to push your head down a bit to clear the opening. I did like the fact that the 6's Ford 6 cylinder engine allows me to change the oil myself. But it is a gas pig. No, for me, my top 3 (not in any order other than how I feel today) is:
1. The Ford Escape Hybrid (all new engine, tranny, and 4x4 system). It fits tall people very well; I have a commanding view of the road and all around me, and it will get 35 mpg in the city. I don't like the fact that it has a Ford stamp on the front of it, but I might take a gamble here
2. Malibu Maxx: this car simply screams value and versatility. As long as my GM friends can convince me that GM is solving the steering problem, it will be hard to turn away from this car, that also gets a combined 26 mpg
3. 2005 Pontiac Vibe: I own one already, and having two Corollas in the driveway, along with their versatility makes good economic sense.
Skibry1: I was lucky on the extended warranty. I will have to consider another one if I buy the Maxx or Ford. I won't get one on the Pontiac Vibe since I don't believe that any Corolla components will ever fail me. I am against extended warranties in general, and would rather keep the money in my Swiss bank account for a day when I need a repair.