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sorry I can't help with the paint.
dbc123: according to edmunds list of std equipment, the CV LX and LX Sport have a manual lumbar as opposed to the LSE motorized...did I misread it???...obviously if the LX Sport is motorized, than my universe of possible purchases has more than doubled...:):):)
That might be about the only major difference.
I know it sounds crazy to buy a car with so many miles but it has been well maintained, new tires, and the engine and transmission were replaced fairly recently. It runs smoothly and I may only need a car for 1 year so I'm tempted...any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I just traded in my baby bimmer on a 1998 Merc GM LS and I love it. However, only a week after I bought it, I discovered that the front passenger window doesn't open and close consistently. Specifically, sometimes the driver's side switch opens the window, and then ceases to work for no apparent reason whether the window is open or shut. At other times, the passenger door switch does the same thing. I can't figure out what is causing the problem.
Have any of you had this problem before? Any idea how to repair it or what it would cost to repair?
Any info is greatly appreciated.
Have a great day!
I am pretty frustrated right now. I own a 97 CVic and was having loud/embarrassing squeaking noises from my front end/hood. A couple cintributors to this board suggested silicon spray lubricant, and it worked wonders.
Then, tonight happened.
As I was coming out after dropping off a FedEx package at the FedEx office, with my 7 year old daughter and wife in the car, I was slowing to a stop before turning onto the street, and my front end literally gave way. When I got out (I was only doing about 5-10 mph at the time the collapse occurred), my driver's side front wheel was bent in/toed in and that side/end of the car was resting on the ground. Considering the fact I was about 90 seconds from getting on the Interstate, I thank my lucky stars that it happened where it did.
There are 140,000 miles on the car, but this in inexcusable, in my opinion. The towing service guy said right away that it looked like my bottom ball joint gave way, and it shouldn't be too much to repair...he'd be surprised if its over about $200. Nonetheless, it scared the HELL out of me.and my family.
I'm going to the Goodyear Tire Center (where I know one of the mechanics that I used to work with) that I had it towed to tonite and will arrive a few minutes before they open at 7a.m.
Any guesses on what this will cost? Anyone else had this problem or heard of it? Is it likely I did a lot of collateral damage? There doesn't seem to be any body damage and there was no fluids leaking afterwards, and the tire remained inflated, just toed in and looking like it was supporting the cars weight on that end by way of the wheel well resting on top of the tire (my uneducated eyes maybe).
Problem 2:
Four months ago, the resin intake manifold blew while we were on a road trip, and I had to spend about $400 for the replacement part and another hundo to have my guy install it. It seems there's been talk on this board about Ford paying for the part AFTER the fact. Is this true? Should I approach Ford about this. ? If so, what is the procedure?
Thanks!
Eric Volk
Ford has reimbursed some for manifold replacment but usually not with the time and milage on your car. Still, it's worth a try.
At least, that's the official Ford line. Personally, I think it's just an excuse on Ford's part to exempt the Crown Vic and Grand Marquis and save the company a little bit of money. That being said, Ford knows about the problem, and if you call customer service and raise a big enough stink, you're likely to get some or all of your money back out of repairs.
Finally, this isn't just a Ford problem. GM's 3.8 V-6 has a reputation for being a tough, dependable powerplant, like Ford's 4.6, but about the same time Ford adopted resin intakes for the 4.6, GM did the same for the 3.8, and has been having the same issues with intake manifolds failing. Appearantly, plastics technology just hasn't advanced to the point where it can replace metal in conditions like you find in an internal combustion engine.
That being said, what, exactly are we calling bad gas mileage? Remember it's a big, heavy, unaerodynamic V-8 powered barge. If you've bought this car after having gotten used to something like a Corolla, there will be a big drop in gas mileage. Finally, are you sure it's engine braking? When my car felt like it was braking all the time, it wasn't the engine doing it, it was a seized calpier on the front of the car.
As far as engine braking goes, there's always going to be a little bit of it under any condition. Where it really comes in handy though, is coming down mountains. My physics teacher told me energy cannot be created or destroyed, only converted to one form or another. Your brakes don't magically make all your car's kinetic energy into nothing, they convert it to heat through friction. Your brake disks are, in effect, heat sinks that absorb all that heat and radiate it off into the air. The problem is that when they absorb too much heat, they have trouble absorbing much more, and all that kenetic energy has just lost its escape path, your brakes "fade" and your car doesn't stop until the rotors cool down. By downshifting the engine, the engine revs to a higher speed, and all of the moving parts create friction dragging the engine speed, and with it the car's speed, back down. Thus the engine and the radiator absorb a lot of heat that would otherwise go into the brakes, keeping your brakes cooler longer, delaying the onset of brake fade.
Ps. My '93 town car showed hardly any change in speed duplicating the above.
The reason you notice the engine braking more on the HPP GM than on your Town Car is because you have a different rear end ratio in the HPP. Your TC is probably a 2.73, while HPP's get 3.27's. This means your engine will turn a bit faster at a given speed in the same gear than in the TC.
The deeper gears are much better for acceleration, but they do cost a little on gas mileage. However, you bought a Grand Marquis; you shouldn't expect it to get 30 mpg.
Looking for something effective, but easy and affordable to get, ie Walmart.
(Since I keep my cars 10 years, but only wax them the first 2 years, I haven't a clue which wax is good these days)
Apparently my gap in waxing knowledge is more considerable than imagined. Found out I now need to:
Wash with Dawn
Clay ...... Huh ?
Wash
Polish
Wax
Repeat process in 3 weeks
Product Choices - way TOO many !
Here is one link ......
jcmoya "Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)" Feb 23, 2000 12:26am
You can do this by putting the transmission in neutral when coasting, but unless you feel like spending large money on a tranny rebuild, I would not recommend it, since the transmission needs to be in gear to have full lubrication.
If you are that concerned about mileage, why did you by a full-size car, especially with HPP?!
The only thing I see at my dealer. they replaced the yellow rear signal to red colored. No idea why. In my opinion, the yellow signals are more visible, and therefor safer on the road. No idea why Ford picked this change.
Not a big deal, however.
I hate it when change is only for change's sake!
As far as the tail-lights go, I prefer the solid-red myself. I don't have any trouble seeing them during the day, and at night (I do a lot of night driving), the red turn signals are easier on the eyes than the amber. If it were up to me, all taillights would be of the solid red variety.
04 is virtually the same car,now with some different colour choices.
In 05 will still be the same visually with some changes that you cannot see with the finished product.ie.the car will have 108 metres less wire in it,as well as different styled seatbelts.
Cheers guys!
DD