Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

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Comments

  • iusecadiusecad Member Posts: 287
    of rust-proofing a ten year old car. I'd save that $$$ for any little nuisance repairs that might appear (hopefully not for a couple more years anyway) and just keep it washed regularly, if you can. I like going to those coin-op DIY washes with the high pressure wands so I can really blast all the salt & sand out from the undercarriage and if the roads are dry I'll spring for a touch free (high pressure) wash to get the topside clean.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Rust proofing is a waste of money.

    In fact Ziebart is now into the aftermarket car accessory business.
  • jfegerjfeger Member Posts: 38
    Hi all,
    My grandfather's 1984 Crown Vic is about to die. He recently found what seems like a decent deal on a 98 Grand Marquis. I would like to know if anyone has suggestions for things I should warn him about, or at least have him ask the dealer about, specific to this car/model-year. Things like 'The tranny in this year died on lots of cars' etc. I checked the consumer ratings and the 98 model seemed to be a significant improvement over the 97 year model (don't know why...was it a new design?). Any help you could give me I would appreciate.

    Thanks,
    James Feger
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    98 saw improvments to the brakes, rear suspension, transmission, and minor engine changes. They are excellent cars with almost no chronic problems. The resin intake manifold water crossover eventually will fail and the car will loose all coolant and be inoperative. This can happen anywhere from a few thousand miles to several hundred thousand miles. You might check to see if this has already been replaced with the newest aluminum crossover version.
  • jfegerjfeger Member Posts: 38
    Thank you very much for the info. I will forward this along to my grandfather and let him handle it. It's sort of funny, he taught me everything I know about vehicles, and now I am helping him....things come full circle I suppose. :)
  • barnzybarnzy Member Posts: 10
    Many thanks to all of you who responded to my inquiry re the realistic life expectancy of my 2000 GM. Because of your input(s) I've decided to keep this car as long as it remains cost effective. I bought it new in Nov 99, and now have a little over 63K on it. I live in Florida so the vehicle has never seen snow, and except for two trips to New England (both in the Fall), has never even climbed a hill. The only repair so far has been a $200 replacement of two switches within the cruise control system, and $145 to replace a cracked leather panel on the drivers seat. The body is perfect, with no rust or dings (as of today). Right now I feel as though this car will last at least as long as I will.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Some of these cars last 'til 200-250 thousand miles with proper care. They are built like pickups, tough.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You can easily expect 10 years or 150,000 miles from a well maintained GM, without any major repairs, in my experience. I've seen them go to 500,000 miles with just a transmission rebuilt or two and normal wear items needing replacement.
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    These cars represent real value when you consider how long they will perform with proper care; even Lexus with it's gold plated reputation for quality, does not build cars that are longer lived and certainly not as (relatively) inexpensive to repair. If you're impressed by room, ride, quietness and value, then you've found your car.
  • harmarharmar Member Posts: 94
    A buddy, who is retired from Ford, sold his '96 GM, with 125K on it, to a good friend with no hesitation. (He's honest and conscientious, so would not have sold it to a friend had he any doubts about its quality.) It had required no major repairs in six years. He and his wife get the Ford employee discount, so decided to get a new one to do some serious traveling. They opted for a 2002 Crown Vic instead of the Marquis, simply because they got a slightly better price and the Ford dealership is slightly nearer their home. It's a very nice vehicle. They looked at the 2003 models, but did not care for the stiffer ride.

    While visiting The Henry Ford Museum last week, I saw staffers were putting a new Freestar on display in the lobby. A nice looking van with some neat innovations. No prices listed, though.
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    I concur with the previous post. I traded my 03 Grand Marquis after only 6 months primarily because of ride quality. THe ride is stiff and constantly jiggly. It never settles down even at highway speeds. The car has gone from one of the very best riding to one of the worst. Even Consumers Reports rates it's ride as the worst of a group of comparative cars. It's very disappointing when a Toyota easily outrides a Grand Marquis!!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    What did they do to it to kill the ride???
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    Spring rates are somewhat higher but mainly much more shock damping. The new monotube shocks have huge increases in their rates. It's less noticable on the Town Car because of it's longer wheelbase, additional weight, and the use of softer rear air springs.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Yes, these cars are underrated. People go on about Japanese cars run forever, while they ride around in Ford taxis with many miles on them. The auto media is so obsessed with the "perfect" FWD mid size car, they think anything else is "bad".
  • herminioherminio Member Posts: 11
    #2068 Harmar and #2070 Barnzy. I bought and installed myself these mirrors along with the Multifunction module on my '99 GM and '00 Mountaineer. The instructions you received as well as the ones that came with the kits are correct and exact on the steps needed to install them by yourself. You need a 12V test light to test the right cables.

    You can see mine on Muth website under Owner's Gallery
    http://www.muthco.com/customers/ownersgallery.htm or http://www.muthco.com/customers/herminiorodriguez/herminiorodrigu- ez.htm

    They are nice additions and prevent many cross lanes from others. I'll recommend them.
  • harmarharmar Member Posts: 94
    Always nice to hear from someone who actually did the work! (The Muth sales dept. was very prompt in sending me a pdf file of the installation brochure, but I've seen too many direction sheets that tell only half the story.) I certainly agree re: the added safety the signals mirrors bring. Since winter reared its ugly head here (Michigan) yesterday, I'll be ordering the kit and installing it indoors while the snow flies outdoors!
  • genex1genex1 Member Posts: 11
    I sometimes hear a slight ticking noise under the hood of my new (11000 miles) GM when I accelerate from a slow speed. It doesn't happen all the time. It doesn't quite sound like engine knocking but that would be my closest guess. I use regular gas (87) as prescribed by the mfgr. My next guess would be sticky valve lifters but the car may be too new for that problem. I also could not find a tag or any such thing that may be flapping around the fan belt area. The car runs fine otherwise. I would appreciate any ideas as to what might cause the problem.
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    Looking at a mid '02 CV LX Sport with less than 20K on it. Much as I like the Marauder, I can't justify $35K+ for it.

    Are there any upgrade/performance parts available through Ford that will not void my warranty? Looking for a little better cornering, horse power, etc. What, if anything, can I use from the Marauder?

    I've enjoyed the discussions here converning V6 FWD and V8 RWD. I own a 98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L that is pretty quick, but it was the first FWD and six cylinder car I owned. Everything else was either Mopar (440-powered New Yorkers and Furys) and Ford (76 LTD 351M and 84 CV 5.0L).

    Thanks for any links, experiences and help you can throw my way to get me to decide.

    Deke
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Mauauders are discounted from the MSRP, some can be had for $27K.

    www.crownvic.net is a good source for these cars
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well, now, could you be a little more specific on the noise for us. You hear it inside the car? Only outside? With hood up or down too? How loud?

    There's a lot of stuff going on in there, and it's fairly quiet generally, but a ticking isn't unusual. NOw, if it's a snapping sound, that could be a lifter, except that you have an SOHC engine, and there are valves opening and closing from the overhead cam.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    sounds like an accelerator cable! Been down that road. Only took me 2 years to finally get the dealer to fix it, because as you say, it is intermittant, and every time I got within 1 mile of the dealership, it would quit doing it.

    Finally, I told the Sales Manager to keep the damn car and drive it himself until he heard the ticking, and took a loaner car. Didn't care how long it took. Took 3 days for him to hear it, but when he did, he got right out and found it. Never did it again.

    Good luck!
  • genex1genex1 Member Posts: 11
    Your suggetion that it might be the accelerator cable reminds me that many years ago, on another car, I had a somewhat similar problem with a speedometer cable. Assuming that what you call an accelerator cable is something different from a speedometer cable, I will pursue your lead with my dealer.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    Yep...one runs to the speedometer and tells the instrument how fast you are going, the other is the connection between the gas pedal on the floor and the thing that feeds go juice to the motor. Either or both have been replaced with electronic sending units in some very new vehicles...
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The speedo cable is likely electronic now, but I think the Panthers still have a live accelerator cable in there. Have them check it out. Beats the hell out of me how it ticked the way it did, but the noise never came back after they replaced it. I know it sounds wierd. But I'd check it out. The symptoms are identical to mine. Good luck.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    My father owns a dark green 1997 Mercury Marquis with the handling package. He has enjoyed the car and, to date, has not had one mechanical problem. The car recently passed the 100,000 mile hurdle which has spurred my dad's interest in a new car. His logic being that the car may start to develop problems that he would rather not deal with.

    What sort of problems should he expect to encounter in the 100,000 to 125,000 mile interval? Are there accessories or components that have been known to fail as these vehicles age? He has kept meticulous car of the car and would consider keeping it if he could be convinced that the car will likely hold together for the next 1-2 years without hassle.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    I'm told that on the 4.6, the valve seals start to leak somewhere between 100 and 150 thousand miles. As long as you keep putting oil in it, the motor should go over 200k no problem. I would be surprised if the tranny lets go before 150k, unless the old man drives like a 16 YO. I've heard of 4.6 Town Cars (basically the same thing) in livery service going a half million with just a trans rebuild or two.

    I have the older 5.0 version, and it has gone 222k without a major problem.
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    if there is a weak link i would have to say front suspension components.the ball joints are of poor design and have no grease fittings along with the other front end parts.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    Thanks for the input guys. I'll pass the information along to my father with the hope that keeps the car for a couple more years. He wants to replace it with an Avalon or a Lincoln LS. I guess there is no reason to spend money on one of those when the car you're driving is perfectly good.
  • cwneumanncwneumann Member Posts: 1
    Have a 92 crown vic 4.6 motor have a oil pressure problem and ford doesn,t have any answers. start the car up have 50 lbs pressure 3-4 minutes later pressure drops to zero, shut the car off and immediately start it again 50lbs pressure for a few minutes, again drops to zero. does this whether you are driving it or idling it. No we are not driving it like this we just noticed the problem while driving the car and it started doing this. the drain holes are all clear, it doesn't smoke oil, ford drained the oil and looked inside the oil pan for anything that might be plugging it up found nothing. the only thing we can think of the pressure relief spring is opening or it is loosing prime. and of course ford is hesitant about putting an oil pump in it because they would have to eat it if that is not the problem. any suggestions
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    then I would think it would most likely be the oil pump. You said they looked inside the pan. If by that you mean they just looked through the oil drain hole, they probably would not have seen anything. In order to properly inspect the pickup tube, you pretty much have to drop the pan. If you're going to drop the pan, you may as well put in a new oil pump. The part itself is relatively cheap, it's just a pain to put in.
  • davids10davids10 Member Posts: 11
    Has anyone found a solution to the rear end jiggly
    ride of the '03 GM?
    -replace shocks?
    -replace springs?
    -or what else?
    If so, what brands and product names/#'s
    -will '02 or prior year's rear shocks fit an '03 and
    would they fix the problem?
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    My solution was to trade the car. I had an 03 for 6 months and hated the ride; it's like riding in a pickup truck. I looked into softening it but found it was going to be very difficult to do. The spring rates are slightly higher but the main culprit is the drastically increased shock damping rates. The front and rear shocks are a different design for 03 and will not interchange with previous years. Glad I kept my 94 GM which rides far,far nicer - also the pre 02 4.6 engines are much smoother and quieter than the newer ones with the PI (performance improved) cylinder heads.
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    If enough owners complained to Ford perhaps they would rework the ride on these cars. Dealers tell me that only a few owners complain about the new "improved" ride. Several testers have published reviews critical of the ride - so I know that it's not just me.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Before you go diving into the engine looking for problems, I would defiantly check out the oil pressure switch. When they go bad they do exactly what you describe. Most cars wont ever develop an oil pressure problem. Hope this helps! Goodluck :-)
  • davids10davids10 Member Posts: 11
    Thanks to dbc123 for the info. I probably would not complain but I came from a '98 GM. You are right, the idle is rough, and the ride has gone to pot. Your comment about riding like a pickup truck is exactly what I thought.
    I have complained to the Mercury dealer. They checked my shock part #s and I have the standard shocks. They have been trying to check with Ford re: my spring #s, but so far they cannot determine whether or not I have standard springs. Also, they have new shock part #s from Ford for shocks to be released in Dec., but no one knows what these new shocks are; softer or stiffer.
    However, has anyone found any other manufacturer's shocks that are softer and will fit an '03?
    Thanks to all who answer.
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    i remember many years ago someone made a shock with some sort of dial on it so you can set the type of ride yourself by setting the dial.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    Monroe and Gabrial have been producing very inexpensive low-damping shocks for ages. They probably have parts to fit the latest Panthers.

    I have heard that springs interchange from all years '79 and up, but I have not tried this personally. If it is true, I might have to get myself some '03 PI springs.

    jrc346- Good point on the oil pressure problem. I forgot to consider the possibility that it could just be the gauge/light or sending unit.
  • dmersdmers Member Posts: 23
    That's what happened to our 2000 GM. The Oil Pressure Sensor when bad and always let the oil pressure light on at the dash. Of course, just after warranty expiration. Better that than the oil pump and engine.
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    The Toicko monotube rear shocks are mounted outboard of the frame rails for 03. This results in an extremely long shock that does not interchange readily with any others. The rear springs on all cars from 79 on will interchange BUT the coil diameter was reduced in 98 to accomodate the Watts linkage rear suspension - use of pre 98 rear springs on a 98 up could result in interference with the Watts linkage. The 03 front suspension is totally new and completely different from any before. It is a coil over shock arrangment which completely precludes using any but factory shocks - at least for the present.
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    Davids10 - Please let us know what you find out about the new part# shocks. Most of the ride issues are due to the excessive shock damping, not to the slight increase in spring rate. Maybe Ford has gotten the message from unhappy owners and is making a running change.
  • sparcguysparcguy Member Posts: 1
    I’ve got a 2000 Grand Marquis. Recently, there has been a high-pitched whistling noise coming from the vents in the dash. I checked and it is not coming from under the hood. The whistle is independent of the climate control settings or status.

    Any ideas what may be causing this? Thanks.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    is most likely a vacuum leak.
  • e_gillmane_gillman Member Posts: 12
    On my car, I had a whistle when the HVAC was in Recirc position. Turns out some napkins that I keep in the glove box got pushed out the rear top of the glove box and into the recirc vent, causing the whistling. Talk about being embarrassed!
  • goldrangergoldranger Member Posts: 54
    My 90 Ranger did just that. It used a cork oil pan gasket that deteriorated over time an cork particles would plug up the screen on the oil intake pipe. Soon as you shut down, the particles would fall out of the intake and the next time you started it would be fine for a few minutes then they would plug the screen and you would see a loss of pressure.
    Good luck,
    Goldranger
  • davids10davids10 Member Posts: 11
    Thanks to vidtech, hotrodlincoln1, and dbc123 for your help re: 03 ride. I will check out Monroe and Gabriel to see what they have to offer. I will also post info on the new Merc shocks to be released this month when I can find out exactly what is different about them.
  • vicvillevicville Member Posts: 19
    my 94 grand marquis ls air bag light just started flashing. it will flash like 5 times then pause then flash one times, then start the same sequence over again. has anyone wxperienced this problem. Also it has 72000 miles and started smoking, we took it in to our mechanic and they said some pcv valve pipe cracked going to the canister. they replaced it , but still smokes. but engine runs and sounds as smooth as the day we bought it. just smokes like when you take off. this car is a nice car, but high maintenence, we have replaced all 4 window motors, had transmission rebuilt 2 times. air suspension pump replaced. but it is such a nice road car. any one have any ideas on air bg light.
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    Your air bag light is signaling code "51" which is "diagnostic monitor internal thermal fuse open". This will require replacing of the diagnostic monitor but you must first determine the cause of the short that triggered the fuse. Usually this occurs after servicing a code "13" (air bag shorted to ground). If this is not the case, then probably an intermittent short to ground exists and MUST be first corrected or the new monitor's thermal fuse will be destroyed. The smoking during "takeoff" is a well known issue with early 4.6 engines and is caused by worn valve stem seals. Highly unlikley that 4 window motors have failed. The window regulators frequently fail but this is not the motor. I've also never heard of 2 trans rebuilds in 72K miles - you're doing something wrong or placing it under excessive loads. My 94 GM has 152K miles on the original trans and still works fine. Be sure to change fluid and filter at 30K mile intervals and use Mercon V fluid.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    "I've also never heard of 2 trans rebuilds in 72K miles - you're doing something wrong or placing it under excessive loads."

    There are such things as freak failures in transmissions. Could have been a defective part in the original transmission that failed, then the rebuild was done incorrectly and had to be replaced, too.
    as far as the smoke problem, assuming you're talking about oil smoke from the tailpipe, then yes, a set of rebuilt heads is the probably the solution.
  • dbc123dbc123 Member Posts: 105
    Only requires replacement of the valve stem seals. They are only about $35 but require 6-8 hours labor to replace.
  • vicvillevicville Member Posts: 19
    Sorry you all, i should have mentioned it was the regulators , but all 4 at different time. And this is my Moms car, she drive it very nicely, never peels out or anything hehehe. but shes 60 and has never loaded it down, changes the oil every 3000 miles and all maintenence. it just seemd for a 29000 car you could get better results. but we are taking it in for the air bag thing this week. thanks for all input.
    p.s. it is one on the best riding cars around, it has the air suspension, thats great.
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