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Comments
One thing I found missing in 2004 is the 'cornering lamps' (the lights which turn on whenever you signal). It was great in the 2003, and I missed it in the 2004 model.
Did somebody noticed it on their '04 cars? Any idea why Ford eliminated it?
Standard suspension GM rear shock #s for 03 & 04:
Available:
before 12/01/03 Ford# 3W7Z 18125-DA
Motorcraft# ASH-6 same shock as Ford #
Available:
after 12/01/03 for 04s (should fit 03s) Ford# 4W7Z 18125-AA
Motorcraft# ASH-268 same shock as Ford #
The Aftermarkets Mgr said he could not help me and did not know where to send me for help. I don't know if he "could not" or just did not want to be bothered. So, here is a list of regional mgrs. Perhaps others of you can find out whether or not the "after" shocks are softer or what?
Western Region: James Dickson: jdickso2@ford.com
Southeastern Region: James Dillmore: jdillmor@ford.com
Southwestern Region: Jeff Strongin: jstrongi@ford.com
Great Lakes Region: John Roy: jroy@ford.com
Southern Region: Harry Vaughan: hvaughan@ford.com
Northeastern Region: Walt Shugg: wshugg@ford.com
The only thing that I noticed of significant change between the numerous new and used GM's that I saw produced between April 2002 and current was the changes in the suspension and the deletion of locking electric gas filler door. I also noticed that the steering ratio changed between the very early 2003 models and the latest 2004 models. The dealers told me that was not true, but the 2004's took more motion to make the car turn than the early build 2003 model that I purchased. The main factor that pushed me to purchasing the used GM LS Premium over the brand new GM was the rear sway bar that I got in combination with rear springs which is not available on the 2004's unless you get airbag suspension or a P71. Sure the car does have a more of an understeer condition by comparison to the CV LX's and GM LS/LS Ultimate that I test drove, but it was more controllable when excessive power was being put to the ground. But at age 30, I am not the typical Grand Marquis/Crown Vic owner. Now I need an H-pipe and a second muffler/tailpipe and my GM will be perfect.
Thank you for your answer.
Too many people, in my view, spend too much of their time thinking they know what is best for others. Have you heard the saying, "If mama ain't happy, ain't no one happy!"? Well, the near obverse is just as true: "If mama's happy, that oughta be good enough for everyone else!" There is more to life than a new car in the garage.
(Perhaps that is heresy on a car-talk board? Gulp!)
The G Marquis is really one of the lowest total cost of ownership cars out there, despite what the car magazines say; though I admit it is not the most attractive car. Ford wants you to buy a Jag, Volvo or Lincoln LS if you want looks.
dmers
dmers
I too live in Chicago, drive an '03 GM, and can say that there is maybe 2 or 3 times a winter you will wish you had front wheel drive. (362 days you won't)
In my opinion, 2 or 3 times a year does not warrant FWD, AWD. They dump so much salt around here, that I don't think any snowfall under 4" has a chance of sticking to the road anyway. The bigger problem is rinsing the white salt film off you car every 3rd day.
I think the hype for these Jumbo AWD SUVs is ...... well .... a Soccer Mom and her money shall part.
Regarding the MPG - I have been getting 17/24
Regarding the Ride - I would like it to be "softer" as others have mentioned.
I was looking for Value, roominess, and safety, so the GM works well for me.
It's not that German cars don't have some of the attributes outlined above, but American large sedans offer a lot more bang for the buck in the short and long term.
The issue that those driving European cars have larger incomes than those buying American models is not true in every case. I know people that work two jobs just to afford payments on their leased MB's, Audis and BMW 's.
Do not skimp on tires: I tried some top of the line MasterCraft Tires and saved $250+ but lost my smooth ride. I traded back for the Michelins and got the smooth ride back. Those other tires may wear better, but you will feel all bumps. There is a reason Ford goes with Michelin tires from the get go. I got abaout 75K on the last set w/ rotation. 16" Tires cost more, but go a little farther.
dmers
Although I still like the GM, I don't think I'll be buying another one if this new Chrysler is successful. The *boss* wouldn't let me.
I'm afraid that Ford won't try to update these cars to compete with this newcomer. They have been decontenting the cars instead of adding new features. I also don't think that the new Ford 500 will be in the running for us. Any hope for improvements with the 2006 redesign?
(Re: PT Cruiser).
CV/GM are tried and true war dogs for lack of a better description. They aren't perfect but Police departments around the country have been using them and New York City cab drivers use them as well, the Crown Vic that is.
If Ford does not make improvements to the CV/GM by that time, I will not be allowed to buy another one.
There have been several mechanical problems with our '99 that I had to pay for out of warranty that should not have occurred at such low miles: tie rod ends and sleeves at @30K, heater box @33K and fuel pump @34K (rec'd warranty adjustment to price of heater box repair only). Car only has 46K now; we're concerned about what else will give out in the next 2-3 years.
I won't buy the Chrysler if it is shown to have serious mechanical problems, but I probably won't be getting the GM either.
See: http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2004-01-28-carlives_x.htm
Pay especial attention to the last three paragraphs....
But maybe Ford will decide not to compete with the "new kid on the block".
As I said in my last post, this may be my last GM. I bought this one new when I was 32 - significantly under the target demographic age. My wife liked it very well at first, but has become dissatisfied by the lack of power and repair costs.
So, I guess we wait and see what Mercury/Ford will bring to the table in 2006 & 2007.
Having used them all, but found no trustworthy Merc dealerships in my area, I had a Ford dealership do a 50K servicing on my 2000 GM. After ~1,000 miles, things seem to be going well. I am assuming that CV and GM parts are identical with just different part numbers. Does anyone have the facts in that regard? Has anyone else used CV parts, rather than GM, and found them to be of poorer quality? Thanks for any help.
I was looking at the IIHS web site and to my dismay found that large cars like CV/GM and even the Le Sabre have poor (Fords) and marginal on the GM bumpers. Detroit couldn't make a better bumper design for such large cars??
The Check Engine light is off now, and hasn't come back on, but the needle on the dashboard guage is stone cold. I recently replaced the thermostat, and I get hot air from the heater, so I know its not the thermostat.
The fuse diagram indicates that all dashboard guages are on the same circuit, and the others all work, so I don't think that is it.
Any ideas?
PS: I hate under dash electrical work. It's very hard on the back.
When you check the parts list,the only nut that is available for aluminum wheels is a chrome plated lug nut for $6.00 ea.It is cheaper to buy the steel rims.
Anyone have any experience towing a boat with one of these? Any slick boat ramp problems considering the RWD? Any advice on problem areas I should look at on the car that might not be obvious to the uninitiated? This appears to be a viable solution to towing with my gas hogging, mega-bucks-to-repair SUV.
I haven't towed with my car, but I have towed with a similarly set up (and underpowered) '80 Cadillac. It got the job done, but I didn't have to take the U-Haul to a boat ramp. I would think it would have no worse traction than a 2WD pickup.
As far as issues:
1. The OD band in the AOD trans is a notorious weak point. If you drive the car, and it slips going into overdrive, you either have a problem with the OD band or...
2. The TV (Throttle Valve) linkage (a rod on the 85's IIRC) must be properly adjusted or the trans will self-destruct very quickly. Symptoms are generally slippage and soft early shifts.
3. If the transmission fluid isn't clean and red, expect to do a rebuild soon. The good news is that an AOD rebuild is relatively cheap (~$600 at a good independent shop).
4. If the water pump hasn't been replaced yet, expect to do it soon. The part costs $20-60, depending on whether you buy new or rebuilt. The labor is a pain.
5. It's a 19 year old car. It WILL have some sort of mechanical issues. Most likely it will have power window/lock issues, need a tuneup, probably tires if it's been sitting. Maybe brakes, etc.
I don't want to discourage you, but if you don't do your own work, these cars are money pits. If you do your own work, they are great, cheap, comfortable transportation. If you decide you want more than 130 hp, as in way more than 130, that isn't hard either.
Oh yes, price. I bought an '86 Town Car with 96k and one dent for $1600. For a perfectly straight car with good paint that runs good, I might go a little over 2000. Any car that runs is worth $500. BTW, '86 and later 5.0's have SEFI in place of CFI (looks like a carburetor) and about 20 more horsepower.
Sorry for the book.
I look at another dealership and of the 3 cars they had in the same years did the exact same problem in varying degrees. The salesman also thought I was crazy and he sat it and agreed there was a problem.
I love the handling and ride of the GM and think that is the way I want to go. I did a search in this group and did not any reference to this. Maybe I missed it.
Has any one else experienced this?
I would be a little extra cautious about looking for structural defects before buying a car with this problem.
I just found it odd that out of 5 cars I looked at 4 of them made you feel like you were going to fall out of the drivers door. I had never heard or felt such a thing in all my life. I still want a GM LS if I can find all the bells and whistles at a good price.
A transmission needs a certain amount of line pressure to keep from slipping, and they can't generate much line pressure when the input shaft speed is very low. This is why automatics behind diesel engines took so long to become durable.
If you have the 2.73 rear end, which is likely, you would be asking the engine to turn 844 rpm in OD at 35 mph. As it is, it's upshifting to OD at a little under 1500 rpm and dropping to a hair over 1000. This is already surprisingly low for an engine that doesn't make peak torque until 4000 rpm.