Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

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Comments

  • samnoesamnoe Member Posts: 731
    I just rented one for a few days, almost new (2,600 miles). I never tried the '94 so I can't comment on ride difference, but it was a very soft, smooth ride. However, It does NOT seem to be too different than 2003 models I've rented.

    One thing I found missing in 2004 is the 'cornering lamps' (the lights which turn on whenever you signal). It was great in the 2003, and I missed it in the 2004 model.

    Did somebody noticed it on their '04 cars? Any idea why Ford eliminated it?
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    Over the past five years or so, feature after feature has slowly disappeared. It is called decontenting, it IS cost-cutting. You may have noticed there have been lots of incentives and prices have not raised as fast as inflation. Decontenting is one way the car companies have attempted to either protect profits or at least make some.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    and FoMoCo has been doing this with a lot of vehicles. I semi-got my wish for a radio delete option (now standard on P71), but I'm still holding out for crank windows. Manual trans would be nice, but I think that's too much to hope for.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    They have to decontent, since higher sticker prices drive buyers away.
  • davids10davids10 Member Posts: 11
    Sorry for the delay, however I have been emailing a Ford Aftermarket Operations Manager whose name was given me by my local Merc. parts dept. when they could not answer the what the difference is between the following part #s:
    Standard suspension GM rear shock #s for 03 & 04:
    Available:
    before 12/01/03 Ford# 3W7Z 18125-DA
                     Motorcraft# ASH-6 same shock as Ford #
    Available:
    after 12/01/03 for 04s (should fit 03s) Ford# 4W7Z 18125-AA
                     Motorcraft# ASH-268 same shock as Ford #
    The Aftermarkets Mgr said he could not help me and did not know where to send me for help. I don't know if he "could not" or just did not want to be bothered. So, here is a list of regional mgrs. Perhaps others of you can find out whether or not the "after" shocks are softer or what?
    Western Region: James Dickson: jdickso2@ford.com
    Southeastern Region: James Dillmore: jdillmor@ford.com
    Southwestern Region: Jeff Strongin: jstrongi@ford.com
    Great Lakes Region: John Roy: jroy@ford.com
    Southern Region: Harry Vaughan: hvaughan@ford.com
    Northeastern Region: Walt Shugg: wshugg@ford.com
     
  • kyjeepsterkyjeepster Member Posts: 11
    I have driven several 2003 and 2004 model GM's and CV's before I purchased my 1st Generation 2003 Grand Marquis with the stiff suspension, but as a rule of thumb, none of the 2003 or 2004 CV's had cornering lamps, but all of the 2003 and 2004 GM's had cornering lamps.

    The only thing that I noticed of significant change between the numerous new and used GM's that I saw produced between April 2002 and current was the changes in the suspension and the deletion of locking electric gas filler door. I also noticed that the steering ratio changed between the very early 2003 models and the latest 2004 models. The dealers told me that was not true, but the 2004's took more motion to make the car turn than the early build 2003 model that I purchased. The main factor that pushed me to purchasing the used GM LS Premium over the brand new GM was the rear sway bar that I got in combination with rear springs which is not available on the 2004's unless you get airbag suspension or a P71. Sure the car does have a more of an understeer condition by comparison to the CV LX's and GM LS/LS Ultimate that I test drove, but it was more controllable when excessive power was being put to the ground. But at age 30, I am not the typical Grand Marquis/Crown Vic owner. Now I need an H-pipe and a second muffler/tailpipe and my GM will be perfect.
  • samnoesamnoe Member Posts: 731
    Seems that these lamps are reserved for the Grand Marquis only.

    Thank you for your answer.
  • vicvillevicville Member Posts: 19
    Hi there Ragdallgirl, well it was not a bargin, it was to the tune of like 900.$ very expensive. and that was not even ford, that was a friend that did the work. the airbag module was like 450 i think and then they had to tear the whole dash apart, and found the short behind the glove box. and he said it was caused buthe manufacture not securing some wires when the car was new. so over the 10 years they just rubbed themself bare. and also some other sensor was replaced. but i would still recomend getting it fixed if you like your car, for the safety sake of it. good luck vic
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Well I finnaly got my hands dirty this weekend on my good friends 94 CV. So far I have taken the exhaust appart for 2 new mufflers, put in a new battery, and cleaned out the EGR valve passages. The battery terminals were cracked (the negative side being almost cracked all the way) and I believe this is what might be causing the surging problem. There was not very good contact at all and on top of that the terminals were covered with grime and grease. The EGR passages, as promised by other good people here, were about 50% blocked, give or take 10%. I am about to put everything in the engine bay back together, but I just realized something. I don't think I have the correct torque numbers for reattach the air intake elbow to the intake manifold. The book/manual I have is for a Thunberbird with the same engine, though it says that I need to torque it to 90ft lbs. That sounds really tight for an aluminum intake. Is this right? If not is there anyone out there that knows the correct torque specs for a 94 CV for the ait intake elbow to intake manifold?
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Found the torque spec. It was in inch pounds not ft. pounds.
  • ragdollgirlragdollgirl Member Posts: 66
    My husband, daughter, and son-in-law are all on my back about getting a new car. My 94 GM has over 184k miles on it, but it runs great and looks great. I, too, would like a new car, but you know, I just can't bring myself to part with this one. I have a funny feeling that I could get another car, same brand or not, and have loads of problems with it. I won't get anything for this baby, and hate to just give it away. It would break my heart. But I'm a very sentimental person, too much so for my own good, and I get too attached to my cars. My son-in-law even went so far as to say that he would take it for me and put it out of its misery! Can you believe that insult! It blows a little oil smoke and is getting those dreaded yellow places on the bumper where the paint is wearing off, and has some pretty big stone chips here and there, but what the heck? It's paid for and gets me where I want to go. The kids only go for German cars and won't hear of anything else. That's fine, but I've had less trouble with this GM than they've had with ANY of their cars! Just had to get this off my chest. Thanks for listening.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    It does sound like you could use some new valve seals. They are a known weak point on the early 4.6's.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004 Survey is posted and ready for your input!
  • harmar2harmar2 Member Posts: 36
    "It's mine, it's paid for, it's not nickel-and-diming me to death, it runs fine for my needs, and I love it! So be quiet, already!" My wife almost cried when we got rid of a '71 Cutlass, too. She felt like we were leaving a child behind at the dealer's lot.

    Too many people, in my view, spend too much of their time thinking they know what is best for others. Have you heard the saying, "If mama ain't happy, ain't no one happy!"? Well, the near obverse is just as true: "If mama's happy, that oughta be good enough for everyone else!" There is more to life than a new car in the garage.

    (Perhaps that is heresy on a car-talk board? Gulp!)
  • ragdollgirlragdollgirl Member Posts: 66
    There really IS more to life than a new car in the garage. You're right. Try telling that to my daughter/son-in-law. They hardly have 2 nickels to rub together as they're trying to get their aviation careers squared away, but they spend three quarters of their spare time looking at BMWs and Audis on the internet. I say "Get a life!" I know they'll come home with one very soon, albeit probably a used one, but unless you are talking about cars to them, they hardly listen. I feel my car will let me know when it's time to give it up. But for now, I just bought some touch-up paint and went out yesterday and painted every stone chip I could find. Voila! New car!
  • dmersdmers Member Posts: 23
    It's like I read in the 740 series BMW Edmonds site: "If you can't afford the maintanence of a BMW, you really should not be looking at this type of car."

    The G Marquis is really one of the lowest total cost of ownership cars out there, despite what the car magazines say; though I admit it is not the most attractive car. Ford wants you to buy a Jag, Volvo or Lincoln LS if you want looks.

    dmers
  • dmersdmers Member Posts: 23
    Most people will squeeze into a small 330 series BMW to say they are driving a German car. I feel interior size is a luxury in today's car market.

    dmers
  • cfocfocfocfo Member Posts: 147
    Someone asked awhile ago about the New GM (RWD)in the Chicago Winters.

    I too live in Chicago, drive an '03 GM, and can say that there is maybe 2 or 3 times a winter you will wish you had front wheel drive. (362 days you won't)

    In my opinion, 2 or 3 times a year does not warrant FWD, AWD. They dump so much salt around here, that I don't think any snowfall under 4" has a chance of sticking to the road anyway. The bigger problem is rinsing the white salt film off you car every 3rd day.

    I think the hype for these Jumbo AWD SUVs is ...... well .... a Soccer Mom and her money shall part.

    Regarding the MPG - I have been getting 17/24
    Regarding the Ride - I would like it to be "softer" as others have mentioned.

    I was looking for Value, roominess, and safety, so the GM works well for me.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Those still able to appreciate car car value, in terms of room, safety, power, durability, comfort, reasonable maintenance costs and lower insurance premiums will choose Ford's CV/GM. Those looking for trendy, fashionable cars will lease or buy European.

    It's not that German cars don't have some of the attributes outlined above, but American large sedans offer a lot more bang for the buck in the short and long term.

    The issue that those driving European cars have larger incomes than those buying American models is not true in every case. I know people that work two jobs just to afford payments on their leased MB's, Audis and BMW 's.
  • dmersdmers Member Posts: 23
    I agree with the total cost of ownership/mile value argument. The Grand Marquis is a very cost effective way to go. I generally buy a well equipped one at 1-2 years old and keep for another 6-8 years (we put about 22+K on a year) . . . . granted my maintanence is higher at first with brakes, hoses/belts, tires, etc, but 30 years of this tends to add up to a substantial savings over time for investing. You can afford to buy new cars later on.

    Do not skimp on tires: I tried some top of the line MasterCraft Tires and saved $250+ but lost my smooth ride. I traded back for the Michelins and got the smooth ride back. Those other tires may wear better, but you will feel all bumps. There is a reason Ford goes with Michelin tires from the get go. I got abaout 75K on the last set w/ rotation. 16" Tires cost more, but go a little farther.

    dmers
  • wnicholswnichols Member Posts: 42
    The new Chrysler 300 (rwd/awd) car coming out in the next month may cut into CV/GM sales. We have a '99GM w/HPP that we purchased new, but my wife thinks it's a dog. She really fell for the 300C at the auto show; she wants the Hemi (340HP/390ft-lbs.torque).

    Although I still like the GM, I don't think I'll be buying another one if this new Chrysler is successful. The *boss* wouldn't let me. :)

    I'm afraid that Ford won't try to update these cars to compete with this newcomer. They have been decontenting the cars instead of adding new features. I also don't think that the new Ford 500 will be in the running for us. Any hope for improvements with the 2006 redesign?
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    2006 redesign of WHAT? The CV/GM? Don't hold your breath...
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    wnichols: Remind your wife that it's very tricky to buy a new model when it just comes out. Chrysler doesn't have a good reputation for reliability. Although they're masters at car design, dependability is lacking in just about every model with very few exceptions
    (Re: PT Cruiser).

    CV/GM are tried and true war dogs for lack of a better description. They aren't perfect but Police departments around the country have been using them and New York City cab drivers use them as well, the Crown Vic that is.
  • wnicholswnichols Member Posts: 42
    I have read on this board to expect a freshening or redesign of the CV/GM in 2006. Are you saying this info was wrong?
  • wnicholswnichols Member Posts: 42
    I don't plan to buy until 2006 or 2007 - by this point, they should have most of the kinks worked out on this new design from Chrysler (300C). They are using quite a number of MB parts in this car, so hopefully it will last.

    If Ford does not make improvements to the CV/GM by that time, I will not be allowed to buy another one.

    There have been several mechanical problems with our '99 that I had to pay for out of warranty that should not have occurred at such low miles: tie rod ends and sleeves at @30K, heater box @33K and fuel pump @34K (rec'd warranty adjustment to price of heater box repair only). Car only has 46K now; we're concerned about what else will give out in the next 2-3 years.

    I won't buy the Chrysler if it is shown to have serious mechanical problems, but I probably won't be getting the GM either.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    EVERYthing I read says AT MOST there will be a SLIGHT refreshening, which means decor changes, not a new platform or redesign. Nearly all the current CV/GM dates to 1992, when it had its last major redesign.

    See: http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2004-01-28-carlives_x.htm

    Pay especial attention to the last three paragraphs....
  • wnicholswnichols Member Posts: 42
    Thanks for the reply. Maybe Ford's viewpoint will change if the RWD Chrysler 300 is a hit. It will be direct competition. In fact, the 300C will outclass the Merc. with features, including the 340 hp motor. Even the Marauder doesn't match up.

    But maybe Ford will decide not to compete with the "new kid on the block".

    As I said in my last post, this may be my last GM. I bought this one new when I was 32 - significantly under the target demographic age. My wife liked it very well at first, but has become dissatisfied by the lack of power and repair costs.

    So, I guess we wait and see what Mercury/Ford will bring to the table in 2006 & 2007.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    If the 300C is a hit, Ford will probably have to offer some version of the 5.4 or a supercharged 4.6 in order to compete. Modulated displacement will probably be necesary(CAFE), but with luck they will get it right. As I see it, the enthusiast consumer can't lose.
  • harmar2harmar2 Member Posts: 36
    and drive till they start deteriorating more than you can tolerate. Let someone else eat the depreciation. My touch-up pint of paint lasts a long time, ragdollgirl. (My sister also gets rid of her cars as soon as they are paid off, even though she puts <20,000 miles total on them. Foolish!)

    Having used them all, but found no trustworthy Merc dealerships in my area, I had a Ford dealership do a 50K servicing on my 2000 GM. After ~1,000 miles, things seem to be going well. I am assuming that CV and GM parts are identical with just different part numbers. Does anyone have the facts in that regard? Has anyone else used CV parts, rather than GM, and found them to be of poorer quality? Thanks for any help.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Sorry you had some problems with you Merc. GM. It's such a nice car.

    I was looking at the IIHS web site and to my dismay found that large cars like CV/GM and even the Le Sabre have poor (Fords) and marginal on the GM bumpers. Detroit couldn't make a better bumper design for such large cars??
  • bobparks1bobparks1 Member Posts: 6
    to all who posted here about their Mercury Grand Marquis and Ford Crown Victoria experiences. I recently purchased a used 2003 Grand Marquis LS Premium to replace our 2002 Lincoln Continental when it goes off lease in two weeks. The majority of owners are happy with their choice and that helped a lot in making my choice. I shall continue reading this board. Bob Parks
  • evolkevolk Member Posts: 9
    I recently replaced BOTH the engine coolant temperature sensors on my '97 Crown Vic (156,000 miles), after the Check Engine light came on and I took it to AutoZone for the free diagnostic.

    The Check Engine light is off now, and hasn't come back on, but the needle on the dashboard guage is stone cold. I recently replaced the thermostat, and I get hot air from the heater, so I know its not the thermostat.

    The fuse diagram indicates that all dashboard guages are on the same circuit, and the others all work, so I don't think that is it.

    Any ideas?
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    Does the heat work? If so, either one or both the sensors is defective or there is a problem with the installation...
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    I'm pretty sure you would still have a check engine light if the sensors were bad, or not talking to the computer. This leads me to believe it is probably the gauge, or a bad connection somewhere between the gauge and the sensors. Get out the multimeter and start testing.

    PS: I hate under dash electrical work. It's very hard on the back.
  • cat3126cat3126 Member Posts: 43
    I have a 95 Marquis that the lug nuts were the wrong taper, They are for steel rims and not for the aluminum wheels with hub caps that came with the car.These lug nuts caused damge to the aluminum rims.The car has only 54K miles on it.I,m going to replace the aluminum rims with steel.
    When you check the parts list,the only nut that is available for aluminum wheels is a chrome plated lug nut for $6.00 ea.It is cheaper to buy the steel rims.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    Thanks for the heads up. I, for one didn't know the lug nuts were different between the steelies and the alloys, and I used to work in a tire shop.
  • 96pathfind96pathfind Member Posts: 22
    I hope someone on this board can give me some re older Grand Marquis. Currently own a '96 pathfinder, used to tow a small (16' aluminum) boat- approx 1300# total wt. Came across what appears to be a darn near mint condition '85 Grand Marquis LS sedan w/ 97,000 miles on it, "make an offer". I'm considering doing just that, but before I do...
    Anyone have any experience towing a boat with one of these? Any slick boat ramp problems considering the RWD? Any advice on problem areas I should look at on the car that might not be obvious to the uninitiated? This appears to be a viable solution to towing with my gas hogging, mega-bucks-to-repair SUV.
  • drknucklesdrknuckles Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 98 Grand Marquis from a dealer..paid way too much..but I wanted a big safe car for the kids and be able to have a little fun myself on the freeways...anyway 3 questions...are the brakes as bad as everyone sz they are (as far as maitanance cost) and if I go over a speed bump slowly I hear a loud squeaking from the suspension (shocks or springs?) also the tranny is alittle touchy shifting gears..is this a normal quirk or just my luck??
  • cat3126cat3126 Member Posts: 43
    I have a 95 GM with 57K on it.The suspension noises you hear are most likely ball joints and tie rod ends.Fords are notorious for failure of these components especially where alot of road salt is used. I had to replace the entire system.I replaced all four rotors at 40K. My wife who drives the car does not brake hard enough to keep the pads and rotors in condition.I drive the car once a month and lay on the brakes very hard two or three times. Had the brakes checked they are still like new.The transmission hardness you feel is probably early stages of the torque converter failing.My torque converter failed at 51K. I was told that the failure of the torque converter was caused by not changing the oil in the converter when I changed the transmission fluid.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    The box bodies are rated to tow 5000 pounds. However, the 85's only have about 130 horsepower (180 or so with the 5.8 engine). They have enough torque (around 270 ft-lbs for the base engine) to tow a 1300 lb boat anywhere, but keep it out of overdrive and don't be expect to win any races.

    I haven't towed with my car, but I have towed with a similarly set up (and underpowered) '80 Cadillac. It got the job done, but I didn't have to take the U-Haul to a boat ramp. I would think it would have no worse traction than a 2WD pickup.

    As far as issues:

    1. The OD band in the AOD trans is a notorious weak point. If you drive the car, and it slips going into overdrive, you either have a problem with the OD band or...

    2. The TV (Throttle Valve) linkage (a rod on the 85's IIRC) must be properly adjusted or the trans will self-destruct very quickly. Symptoms are generally slippage and soft early shifts.

    3. If the transmission fluid isn't clean and red, expect to do a rebuild soon. The good news is that an AOD rebuild is relatively cheap (~$600 at a good independent shop).

    4. If the water pump hasn't been replaced yet, expect to do it soon. The part costs $20-60, depending on whether you buy new or rebuilt. The labor is a pain.

    5. It's a 19 year old car. It WILL have some sort of mechanical issues. Most likely it will have power window/lock issues, need a tuneup, probably tires if it's been sitting. Maybe brakes, etc.

    I don't want to discourage you, but if you don't do your own work, these cars are money pits. If you do your own work, they are great, cheap, comfortable transportation. If you decide you want more than 130 hp, as in way more than 130, that isn't hard either.

    Oh yes, price. I bought an '86 Town Car with 96k and one dent for $1600. For a perfectly straight car with good paint that runs good, I might go a little over 2000. Any car that runs is worth $500. BTW, '86 and later 5.0's have SEFI in place of CFI (looks like a carburetor) and about 20 more horsepower.

    Sorry for the book.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    The heater core is probably bad, or will be soon. This is another cheap ($50) but hard to replace part.
  • 96pathfind96pathfind Member Posts: 22
    Thanks! Exactly the info I needed. I'm gonna pass on the '85, and keep my eyes and ears open for a later model wagon, preferably with factory tow package. I do much of my own work, but if I'm gonna have to put that much effort into it I want the wagon for the extra space. Wouldn't hurt to have the extra HP of a newer model, either.
  • alston28alston28 Member Posts: 98
    I'm in a similar boat, but with a a 1987 Buick w/ 138,000 miles on it. I'm trying to prepare myself for when it finally gives up the ghost. I've noticed lots of CV/GMs on the road, and thus my interest in this group. Why should I get a new car, when the one I have works fine, gets me where I'm going, and is paid for?
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Member Posts: 118
    I am deciding between a used 2k3 Sable LS and a 2k1 or 2k2 GM LS. I have driven both but found the drivers seat was leaning toward the door. I said something to the salesman and he thought I was jerking his chain. He sat in it and I was right. We also were able to verify from the sales manager there was a problem.

    I look at another dealership and of the 3 cars they had in the same years did the exact same problem in varying degrees. The salesman also thought I was crazy and he sat it and agreed there was a problem.

    I love the handling and ride of the GM and think that is the way I want to go. I did a search in this group and did not any reference to this. Maybe I missed it.

    Has any one else experienced this?
  • barnzybarnzy Member Posts: 10
    izaclown1: In which vehicle does the seat lean towards the door - the Sable or the GM?
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    That's an unusual problem. I've never heard of that on any vehicle. It shouldn't be hard to fix. Just unbolt the seat and shim it with some washers until you get it level.

    I would be a little extra cautious about looking for structural defects before buying a car with this problem.
  • bobparks1bobparks1 Member Posts: 6
    Our 2003 Grand Marquis does not shift into overdrive on a level road until the car reaches 43 mph. Is there a way to get it to shift into overdrive around 35 mph? Lots of 35 and 40 mph speed limits where I drive.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Member Posts: 118
    Sorry, this was on the GM. The L/M dealer said they would shim it, no problem or replace the entire seat if needed. That particular one I test drove is still under warranty.

    I just found it odd that out of 5 cars I looked at 4 of them made you feel like you were going to fall out of the drivers door. I had never heard or felt such a thing in all my life. I still want a GM LS if I can find all the bells and whistles at a good price.
  • hotrodlincoln1hotrodlincoln1 Member Posts: 62
    It could be reprogrammed to shift earlier, though I don't know why you'd want it to and I don't think it would be wise.

    A transmission needs a certain amount of line pressure to keep from slipping, and they can't generate much line pressure when the input shaft speed is very low. This is why automatics behind diesel engines took so long to become durable.

    If you have the 2.73 rear end, which is likely, you would be asking the engine to turn 844 rpm in OD at 35 mph. As it is, it's upshifting to OD at a little under 1500 rpm and dropping to a hair over 1000. This is already surprisingly low for an engine that doesn't make peak torque until 4000 rpm.
  • bobparks1bobparks1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the information on the shift points and rpm. The 2003 GM we have does not have a tachometer and I did not realize that the rpm were already pretty low. Sorry it took so long to read your post. We were on a trip.
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