By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I've also figured out why the CD Changer harness isn't an option here in Canada. It's automatically installed in ALL 2001 Impalas. I checked a base impala yesterday at the dealer and the plug is there in the trunk.
Brad
FWIW: I just got an email back from Chuck Hutton Chevy (www.gmpart.com). They're asking US$332.88 for the 12-CD changer (part #25708970), which includes shipping and is tax-free (unless you're in TN--I'm not.) There are none currently in stock, but they can order it. The price is 15% off of the MSRP ($391.62) -- I wonder which price my local part dept will quote me?
I'm still unclear whether this is just a "plug and play" installation using the wiring harness that comes installed with the UP0 radio or not.
Anyway, I have a service apt. for next Wed. morning as I think an internal short in the CD unit is the culprit, just wondering who else, if anyone, may have experienced this.
thus i mounted my factory headunit in the trunk on the drivers side to the side of the 6x9 (you see in the pic)
i mounted the amps one on eachside on the fold down rear seat (also in pic) i threw in a 1/2 farad capacator to aid in the power of the amps.
i have 6.5" jlaudios on the front kick panels, and 6x9" jl's in the rear deck
any questions, lemme know
After many conversations and decisions on this particular subject with my installer friends, it has come to actually buying new equipment and choosing my installer. I am currently planning to have this stereo upgrade completed in early July. Yes, it will take some time as I have to work at my real job and can't just take off to do it.
The component list if you are interested in attempting this modification is as follows:
Please be advised, this component list is not for the budget minded!!! The components are very expensive and in designing this system I have a very strong lean towards sound quality!
Front speakers- Focal 165 k2
Rear speakers- Stock
Subwoofers- JL audio 12" (2)
Head unit- Stock w/line converter
Equalizer- Precision Power DEQ-230
Amplifiers- Lunar L100 And Lunar L200 (crossovers are built in)
Misc- Stinger power and audio cables
As configured for 4ohm stereo the amps give me a total of 200watts for front and 400watts for subs. These amplifiers are very conservative in their rated power at the 4ohm rating. They will actually be pushing a bit more power than listed here.
At this time I have found that in the front doors, you can mount a mid/bass speaker that has a mounting depth of 3.5 inches with no modifications to the door (I would recommend no more than 3" depth to be safe to clear the glass when rolled down),and a speaker size of 6" but you will have to probably modify the speaker adapter present. The location of the speaker and tweeter is pretty good from a sound stage standpoint. The door will be sound deadened with several materials, to prevent resonance’s coloring the sound.
That is all that has been decided for now. The amps are ordered and on the way. The rest will be gotten a bit later just before the end of June and then the car goes in for install in the first week of July. Until then I may not have many updates.
I may put up a web site detailing the whole installation process, with pictures and the like. If you want more info.. I will be here to answer any questions. Thanks and have a great day!
Now, the real question is how much are you willing to pay for a good quality sound. All of the above are very good quality.. And accordingly have very good sound characteristics. It really comes down to what you like vs. what you can afford. I recommend listening to the speakers at the dealers shop. But keep in mind that what you hear in that shop is the best case listening environment. If you keep that in mind that you are actually going to put these into a car.. the whole thing changes. Specifically the off axis response will change. So.. when you listen to these speakers.. find the sweet spot.. then move back a couple of steps. (this simulates an off axis placement). Then move forward a couple of steps.. note the size of the sweet spot. (Count how many steps you take both forward and back) This will give an idea of the size of the off axis response.. the wider the zone.. the better.. the narrower the harder it is to make the speakers sound good in a car door.
This is how I test for speakers I would use in a car.. It is really up to you as to what sounds good though. A super high priced set of speakers does not necessarily mean you will have stellar sound. So, I cannot recommend any one brand to you. But I can give advice on what you should listen for.
As far as speaker size for the front doors. They are a bit off size but not so much in size as the angle at which they are mounted. If you don't want to modify anything.. Then I would stick with a 6" -1" tweeter separates. Like what is currently installed. A 6.5" can be fit in the location but you will have to modify to mounting and possibly cut a bit to give the diameter you need and you may have to mount the tweeter in a different location. This should all be possible with a good installer. If you decide to have them installed take your time. Find a installer who will talk with you and voice your questions. A good installer will point out the obvious as well as tell you what can be done with a good modification. If they or the person you are dealing with wont do that.. DON'T DEAL! Move on to someone who will take the time to answer your questions. The more satisfied you are with the people.. the better you will feel and the better your system will sound!
Sorry for the long winded reply.. I seem to get carried away about one of my favorite subjects!
What if I decide to replace the front speakers with Boston Acoustics and at the same time, I want to keep the factory tweeters. Is that possible? Is there any space for both...6 1/2" speaker plus the 1" tweeter?
Thanks.
PS
Let me know if you live in Orange County, CA.
With that in mind, I tore apart my console to take a look at the back of the radio. Unfortunately, because the radio is above the climate controls, I really couldn't see the back of the radio. It looks like there are two plugs in there. I'm working on a How-To page on removing the console.
I took a multimeter and probed the CD connector in the trunk and got 12V.
Has anyone else measured the connector? Pinouts can be found on my page.
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/
I disconnected the battery (better safe then shorted) and used a wire to jump the orange-black wire and the green one. I got continuity in the connector in the passenger compartment. I pulled the jumper and re-checked. No continuity.
This means that while we do get power at the trunk plug, it's likely that the audio and data lines are not connected to the radio.
I am getting the feeling that you can get either OnStar, or CD changer, but not both.
I e-mailed Chevy on this, but so far nada. I'll post a photo of the connector on my page in a few hours.
On a different note, I was posting on the big Impala board because what I was talking about seemed like it would be information the board as a whole might be interested in, instead some people think you shouldn't mess with anything and GM makes no mistakes, or that what's good for the masses is good for everyone. Many people were very satisfied with their 2k stereo amps, many were not, I was dissatisfied and wanted something better. I didn't appreciate the comments of someone acting like I'm some punk who wants to go Boom boxing down the street. And even if I did, who gives a rats pitootie? I appreciate the efforts put in by you to find a solution to this issue, I've already spent over 500.00 trying to come up with the right combination, granted I keep getitng credit from hutton for the changers that aren't right, but I still have to go to the trouble of sending all this stuff back.
There was one Impala owner that ripped out the whole stereo and replaced it with a $5K system. Unfortunately he took his page down. Then there is the other owner that dropped a blower into his engine bay. Something about needing a little more power.
I may not see the rational behind these modifications, but I can be (and am) impressed by the amount of work these people put into their vehicles. People think (read that wife, parents, co-workers) that the time I put into maintaining my Impala web page is silly. But I enjoy it, and that is reason enough.
GM has to build the car for the masses. It's up to each owner to make the car fit them. Some people see the car as a tool. Point A to B. For others, it's a reflection of their personality. Be it low pro tires and rims, spoilers, blowers, radical paint jobs, booming stereo systems or even a bumper sticker or two.
And on the radio issue. Most of the time I am toodling along, just listening to the radio. But sometimes I want to pump it up and better speakers, upgraded amp and a CD CHANGER would be nice to have.
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/
Hunter, if you don't have OnStar, you can get an aftermarket harness and run it from the front to the trunk and not use the factory harness. Check out M&R Electronics on the Accessories page. There is a link directly to the Impala stuff.
Brad
In all I have read in this forum, the prevailing complaint is the lack of information on compatibility with after market items as well as GM endorsed products.
I for one am in this same situation with my "Audio upgrade". I am keeping the stock deck and upgrading everything else. The problems start with "how do I integrate the features of the radio" with the rest of the system? Will my onstar system still work? And finally.. can I get a cd changer to work with the deck that came with the car. I regret to say I do not have any firm answers on these issues as of yet.
I will in July. I will be completing the install on my Impala at that time. I think (my opinion) that if the consumer base would look at the big picture of after market items they would like to use (during the life of the car), they would suddenly realize that for what they buy in a car.. it should support anyone's ideas of what to add.. (car audio, engine enhancements, performance suspensions and the like)instead of being locked into a proprietary design. I currently see a trend of the automakers offering more features but to get them they "build in" to a point that you cannot work around the features. That then becomes allot of people's problems.
Like in the case of my audio upgrade. I like the radio deck that is installed. I would like to keep it for the features. The only problem is that the deck does not include a set of "line out" speaker outputs. So consequently I have to use a speaker level to line out converter to run the signal to my amplifiers. This is not optimal. As line level signals would be very much preferred. This "feature" of line level outputs would simplify allot of aftermarket audio upgrades. And it is not that hard to do.. (AC/Delco do you hear this, you have offered this in the past why not now?)
The CD changer issue, boy what a topic.. If the consumers would just stand up and demand from GM/Chevrolet that we need more information. (I know, easier said then done), but if we call the appropriate people, we might eventually get there. And I must say this group had gone a long way's to try and get that information. And I say keep pounding on them.
I would like to see the issues resolved myself, as I would like to use the factory radio/cd changer in my system. But I suspect after my initial run on this.. I will have to replace the radio/cd player to get better sound quality.
I guess my main gripe is that the cars being built now include more features, but in getting those features you are essentially locked into a one-way street. I would like to see a progression from this design to keeping the added features but make them so they can be used with other things instead of proprietary designs that can't be interfaced with anything else. Repeat after me, EXPANDABILITY with out limits!!
Ok, I can get off my soapbox now..
**********************************************
"#400 of 422 DURAFLEX - Future Audio prediction by duraflex Mar 17, 2001 (05:58 am)
Prediction: MP3 car audio players.
MP3 is an audio compression algorithm that is pretty incredible.
Basically, you can get very near CD audio quality in about 1/10th the space of an audio CD file.
One conventional CD disc can easily hold well over 200 tunes in MP3 format ! ! !
That's over 10 hours. Imagine the possibilities.
For those considering a trunk mounted CD changer, perhaps a combo MP3/CD player may be available in the not too distant future. "
PatHOST quickly added that MP3 players are already being made.
MP3s recorded at 128kbps are almost indistinguishable in audio quality from a conventional CD unless you have a great ear and are listening on an excellent full fidelity system.
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/
Also keenly interested to hear how this puppy hooks-up, since you've learned that the trunk connector terminates near the glove box. I *strongly* want to avoid another FM-modulated changer if possible. 6 years with a JVC FM unit in my Grand Prix was plenty!
My comment was because I was really looking forward to having a hard-wired changer that I could operate directly from the head unit (or steering wheel controls). The sound quality would have to be better, and not having an extra control unit in the cockpit would be a huge plus too. Win-win. I wasn't aware that there were RDS-related issues that I should have considered, and I'm not implying that modulated units *are* compatible with RDS-equipped radios. As Schultz used to say, "I know nothing!"
Since the FM modulated changer is set to a specific frequency, the only problem I can think of is that when you are using the FM modulated CD changer, RDS may not be available.
My only experence with this was a $15 adaptor that took the signal from my MD player and converted it to a FM signal that my car radio could pick up. Because there was no direct connection, I would lose the signal from time to time. For the changer, do you plug the antenna into the changer then plug the changer into the radio?
It's entirely possible that this was a JVC-unique problem, or an installation error, but this is the only modulated changer I've ever had, and my experience hasn't been all that good.
www.memoryseller.com/pics.htm
i took the time and did it right. and still maintain all the functions of the on board computer. to reset the change oil light, i just reach in the trunk for a quick second. thats it..
and questions lemme know, i'd be happy to help.
eric@masterlinx1.net
The FM changer is a perfectly acceptable route. If you have a lease vehicle, a FM changer can be easily moved from vehicle to vehicle. If you are on a tight budget, you can have a CD changer for under $300. How much does it cost for a new head unit, compatible CD changer, and associated harness/cables?
Sound quality is subjective. I used a portable CD player with a cassette tape adapter for years and I was perfectly happy. Some feel that records produce a warmer sound that is superior when compared to CDs. Some think the Impala's "premium" amp is a paperweight and others don't have a problem with it.
I paid for the radio with CD and cassette and would not replace it. Among other things, I would lose OnStar and my steering wheel radio controls. In addition, to me, replacing the working head unit is like throwing away $500 (the cost of the radio itself).
I wouldn't take the path you did, but my circumstances and priorities are different from yours. You have decided to invest the time and money into something that is important to you. I can admire your effort and results. At the same time I can appreciate the decision of the individual who uses a FM based changer.
Why is it customer assistance if they can't assist a customer?
I have a problem with just one FM station - 92.5 WXTU out of Philadelphia.
Unlike every other, there is a delay before its signal is heard when I hit its preset button. (ALL others are heard instantly.) When I am listening, the sound will drop out for a fraction of a second. Any guesses?
Mine was that the RDS radio is searching for an ID or other update.
I am NOT in a fringe reception area and no othere station does this.
Model # 10309548
Serial # 569074
Made 12\00
Made by Matushita Communications Industrial Corp.
Made in the USA of foreign and USA parts
Please indicate any difference from yours.
Lance
I have the RDS radio with both tape cassette and CD player? Do you?
Your car is a 2001 model - right?
My car was built 01/00.
My (bypassed) amp is also a Matsushita but apparently NOT the same as yours.
It's curious that your newer car has an amp with a lower (earlier?) model number.
Mine is:
Model No. 10432572
Ref No. CY-BG2911ZC
Serial # 331780
Does your amp show a REF. NO.?
I disconnected my amp 11 months ago because it ruined the sound.
Supposedly, later units sound just fine. I have yet to hear a 2001.
How does your unit sound?
Is it possible that changing the amp within a model year could be interpreted in a way that there's something wrong with the old amp? If so, I'm thinking if it's possible to talk Chevy into changing the old amps to the new ones under warranty... Who knows.
Your car's build date (on driver's door edge)
AMP MODEL NO.
REF NO.
S/N (on amp only)
Do the connectors look the same as on nathan's website???
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/Amp_bypass.html
I'm curious about a fix on that amp though, paid more for that amp and it's useless in the trunk, sounds good disconnected though...
Car build date: 12/00
Amp model: 10309548
Ref no: CY-BG2911ZC
S/N: 562718
Mine is the same as Lance's.
Dave
build date.
I am no audiophile so when I first listened to my system after reading the last 6 months of posts
I thought it sounded fine but thought I must have a poor listening ear and not able to detect the poor sound.
I questioned all passengers as to their honest opinions without telling them the background of the issue.
They all thought it sounded fine. Not out of this world but fine.
Lance
The Model numbers you both posted are different than mine.
I am going to request your model number as a replacement for my amp which has never worked right from day one.
I'd very much like to switch to the new amp if it significantly improves sound quality. I'm not all that thrilled about the sound quality as it is now with the old amp, but not dissatisfied enough to spend over $200 to fix it. I know I could go for the bypass but I'd rather have it done "right".
Are they the same?
If so, I would bet dollars to donuts they could be swapped out.
That 2000 "amp" is a $200 doorstop in my book.
I'm thinking they must be compatible - they probably wouldn't have changed the other audio components in the middle of the model year. What then becomes the $200 question is whether an inferior amp can be considered as a defect or not. I'm willing to bet Chevy/GM will insist it's not a defect, but maybe if enough of us complain to them under a single case number and insist on amp replacements under warranty they might change their minds.. (Hey, I can dream, can't I? ;-)