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Does anyone know what the problem might be? Is there some sort of air pocket that won't allow the system to fill properly? Or is there some sort of affiliated turbo issue or transmission issue that is using large amounts of coolant?
IIRC, if you see a lot of white smoke coming out the tailpipe you are burning coolant.
As Vmax stated, overheating on an aluminum engine is a very very bad thing.
How many miles on the vehicle? It does sound like you may be burning off coolant; however, it sounds like it is slow enough that maybe it wouldn't be noticeable at the tailpipe.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
ours has 65k miles on it. $3k repairs in last year, $5k in last 2 years. they want to do $1.5k more.
That's what you get for going to THEM and letting THEM decide. THEY will always get you!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any suggestions?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Id like your suggestion. I am about to buy a volvo s70 glt with 150,000 miles on it. the only problem so far is that the car is 150k miles and last time the timing belt has been changed is at 85000 miles. I am surprised how the owner is still driving. I got a hell of a deal on it but is it dangerous to drive these cars with for a while even if the timing belt is 65,000miles old? thanks
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Why are the valves hitting?? And WHAT are they hitting? If that is the case, something is out of alignment and really should be fixed immediately. What garage is telling you this? Is it one that specializes in Volvos?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
well the garage is not specialized in volvos but he knows how to fix them ( he was working on a 850 when I went to see him ) . He is the one who told me that it could last even in this situation. I went to another garagist who never works on volvos. This one told me that valves are knoking on the metal and that it wont take long before the engine is out of order. I don't know who I should trust but the car makes this noise since a little bit more than 1 year. Its a metal on metal noise. It's not very loud but when you are outside the car you can hear it clearly. If the car lasts one more year like that it would be great, if not well I'm in trouble...
So, in short, if they are saying the valves are hitting, I'm pretty sure this is something that could be fixed now without a new engine, rather than waiting for further damage.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Next week i'll take it to a volvo garage, but in your opinion can it last for few months like that ? Some mecanics tell me that it can , some others tell me " you should not use the car anymore it's dangerous. " Since it lasted with that noise for 1 year at least, I guess it won't be a problem for the next months..
Anyways thanks for all your help
Have a real Volvo tech look at it.
If you are so inclined and motivated, you can remove it and clean it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Note: I have always used Mobile One Synthetic oil.
1998 S70 GLT 2.4 liter.
If I ever come across a preserved low mileage '98 T5, I'd have to grab it, I think.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The tradeoff of buying the Toyota in my opinion is:
1. A generic uninspired car. Looking like every other car out there.
2. A car that is not built like a tank (more likely to get totaled in accidents).
3. How many recalls are there out there for Toyotas lately?
4. Crappy seats. (Volvo has the best- I have owned a Jetta with Recaro seats and also a BMW 325i and Volvo still beats them).
5. Less than stellar handling (Volvos are great handling European cars-not every model but most of the newer ones).
If you take care of it, it will take care of you. I will never drive a Toyota or any other mass produced, uninspired cars. No matter what the reliability is, if it is not fun to drive then it is just a waste of time. This is just my opinion so take it or leave it.
Occasionally at low speeds (stopped at red lights, stop signs) when I step on the accelerator the car will stutter, like its choking. It has to be a misfire of some sort, I assume.
It will correct itself within 5 seconds and ONLY does it after the car isn't moving. Once it corrects itself the car run perfectly and smooth.
Any advice? I'm guessing plugs?
without knowing the answers to the above, I'm going to take a guess that you have a '99-'00 model and your MAF is going south.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks for the reply.
You didn't tell me the model, so I don't know if turbo or not. If turbo, that gives you many more possible places for leaks.
On my '98, I one time had a plastic elbow connector inside the intake manifold crack. That caused a bit of a stumble at idle on occassion.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Jim
If no fuel is coming out of that cracked line, it isn't the problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am really in need of some sound advice (and from a real Volvo expert and not some guy at O'Reilly's who just wants to get in my pants...).
Ok- I bought my 2000 Volvo S70 SE last year as a way to eliminate car payments so I could pay off my student loans for awhile. It was either buy this junk or get on a pole... And mama didn't raise a pole dancer...
So here I am, one year later, with a car that is so tempramental I'm wondering which one of us is the real [non-permissible content removed] here. About 6 months ago the ABS and Check Engine lights would come on every now and again, but usually, they would just come on briefly. About two months ago they just stayed on. The car started to shake pretty bad if I was stalled at a light and would kinda jerk when I gave it some gas. I took it to my local dealership and there were a lot of signals that were coming back to them when they hooked it up to the computer, so they cleared it out so that they could identify exactly what was wrong. Two weeks later the ABS light and Check engine light came back on, and they explained that I needed a new ASB Control Module - which would cost me close to $2k. The damn car is only worth $3200. I googled ABS Control Module and got the idea to kinda wedge a piece of plastic between it and the box next to it (I got the idea from this website http://www.carinstructions.com/volvo-s70-v70-abs-module/). It was running much better for about two more weeks, but now my car is really acting PMS'y.
Now, the car barely wants to start, and really whines before it decides to actually ignite. I sometimes have to push the gas to rev it up a bit. Three times it has stopped while I was driving (like from a stop position) and just died in the middle of the intersection. I have to shut it off and start it again. Today - and this is the scary part- it seemed like it didn't want to brake when I hit the brakes and then I smelled a strong gas odor. She sputtered and sputtered until I put her in park and once it was in park I saw the gauge on the transmission thing go from 1 to 8 -- AND I WAS IN PARK WITH NO FEET ON ANY PEDALS! After I came back from my appointment, she started up fine. The trouble is, the damn car started shaking again just as I was pulling into my driveway. I called a buddy of mine who suggested it may be a throttle body issue - but from my research - that has nothing to do with the ABS stuff.
I know it sounds like my poor little car is a piece of $#!t, but it's mine -- and she's all I got. Until I get squared away with ole Sallie Mae, I really want to preserve her. I like my car and she looks pretty good -- but as you men know -- there are a lot of hot girls out here with messed up insides, and my poor Volvo is one of them.
PLEASE HELP!!! I just need to know what to expect or how I can do this myself. I'm a broke, recently graduated young woman and Im surrounded my incompetent men who know nothing about cars - especially Volvos. Any ideas are appreciated!!
And... actually, while searching for that fellow, I came across this place. So $100 for the service. You do have to remove and mail it, but the instructions are right there on that site. You can drive the car without the module, BTW, you will have brakes, just not antilocks, so be careful.
Your buddy is on the right track on the poor running issue. The 2000 S70 has a notoriously bad MAF sensor (just like a notoriously bad ABS module). However, it also has a poorly designed ETM, which is quite a bit more expensive.
Where did you get the car diagnosed. Was it a volvo shop? It doesn't sound like it. Next time, you need to go to a volvo dealer or specialist. It takes very specific and expensive software to properly read all the codes on your car.
The first thing you can try is unhooking your battery for 30 mins. During that time, also unhook your MAF. If, upon rehooking up your battery and starting the car, it runs better, then you need a new MAF. Again, you can drive your car this way, but don't do it for long. It will run with an improper Air-Fuel mixture, causing poor mileage and poor conditions for your plugs, O2 sensors, and catalytics.
If it doesn't clear up, then you are very likely in need of an ETM. For a temporary fix, check out this video. And, just like the ABS module, there are places that will rebuild the ETM for far cheaper than replacing it (not to mention replacing it also requires a trip to the dealer to code the new unit to your car ... so avoid that and have yours rebuilt).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
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vivica, the S70 really can be a great and reliable car. It has a couple of common problem areas, which I believe you are currently experiencing. Once those are sorted, it could last quite a while longer.
You didn't state how many miles it has, though. Please also be aware that you HAVE to change the timing belt and tensioner every 75k miles. The manual states you can go longer, but I wouldn't risk it. Like just about any modern car, it will destroy your engine if it breaks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
i need to replace the neutral safety switch but the parts are totally different on the turbo and non turbo models. I have a four door sedan , automatic.
thank you
1. the badge on the trunk.
2. the sticker under the hood.
3. look at the engine itself. Look at this pic of a turbo engine. The large black hose going over the top-right side of the engine comes from the turbo back to the intercooler. If you don't have that hose, you don't have a turbo. You can also look at the back of the engine where that hose begins and see the turbo down there.
Here is what appears to be a standard 2.4 non-turbo:
By the way, there are 2 possible turbo '98 S70s: a GLT, which is a light-pressure turbo 2.4 liter 5-cylinder, and a T5, which is a high-pressure turbo 2.3-liter. Your parts may be different between those, as well, so check that underhood sticker to see if its the 2.3 or 2.4.
Oh, and finally, FIND NEW MECHANICS!!! The fact that they can't tell is just.... WOW!!!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S