Well, I'm back in Florida (enjoying the incessant rain) right now, and put tires on the old Caravan today, so I guess we'll soldier on a while longer with it. It is awfully solid and wearing very well for the miles and age. Drives and runs great (with the new transmission). There's a lot I really like about this van - lots better than the Windstars I've rented. But if she keeps giving me trouble, I'll send it down the road. It's a love/hate relationship I guess.
In the past month my 2003 Caravan ( bought Nov. 28/03) has had to have the transmission cooling line replaced and the connection to the radiator tightened, then it had a power steering cooling line leak due to a stretched hose clamp. Both times I was told it was due to the cold weather. Is this a *normal* thing or am I right to believe my van is a lemon? There are thousands of these vans made but no one else I talk to has this problem. I was told that I should not drive it when it is cold out. I warm it up 10-15 min before I drive it. This sounds like a crock to me.
I was told that I should not drive it when it is cold out.
You are correct--that is a crock. My '99 GCS was sitting out all night in -21 F weather this weekend and started and ran just fine, just as it has for the past five Minnesota winters.
Who told you not to drive it when it's cold? They deserve a dope-slap! That's the silliest thing I've ever heard! I don't know if you have a lemon or not, but I wouldn't make payments on a car I could only drive in good weather, unless it was a really expensive convertible! My advice is keep driving, keep fighting, or trade the thing in on something else that is cold weather approved.
The service manager told me it was too cold for the van. They even put in writing ( on the work order) that the problem was caused due to extreme cold weather. yes it was -43C with a wind chill of - 50C but everyone else was driving and they should be. We can't stay indoors just because it's cold.
I forgot to say to nvbanker that we just traded our 2002 on the 2003 in November 2003. The 2002 was in the shop so often that we just wanted out of it. We would loose too much to trade again so soon.I feel like telling them to keep it and not make the payments but what would that do to our credit rating?
That would give you a voluntary repo on your credit rating - not good. Guess Chrysler can't make it in the cold. In Florida, mine is fine on that score.
Try a Volvo? They're born in the cold, they should work fine there.....
I used silverstar. The lighting is still terrible. I used silverstar on a Nissan Sentra and there was a big improvement. Maybe these lights are too low on the GC??
My 2001 T&C with 47,000 miles has had two items replaced; an antilock wheel sensor and a fuel injector. Except for an occasional rattle under the dash associated with heater door position, a rattle in the right center bucket seat, and warped brake discs, there is nothing else to find fault with.
Lately, the driver's seat warmer refuses to heat. There’s a fuse labeled “Seats” in the “Fuse and Relay Center” box under the hood, but all motors in the seats work. I don’t recognize any other fuse or relay that might apply. The rocker switch indicator lights light up when either “Low” or “High” is pushed.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Is there an easy fix?
Well, I finally got the whining sound fixed. You may remember my earlier post, when I told of the whining sound which was loudest at 2300RPM on my '02 GC. Two weeks ago, the dealer replaced the Alternator, but this did not fix the problem. Today, they replaced some one-way water hoses, and no more WHINE!! Apparently, they learned of the problem after talking with some Chrysler "experts". Anyway, I hope this helps someone whoever experiences this problem.
I think mine has the same problem. I thought my pants/ jeans were too thick to feel the heat and didn't pay to much attention about it...and now when I think of it, I do remember it used to burn my butt when I accidently turned it on...
I have a brand new (3 month old) '04 Grand Caravan SXT AWD. And I'm wondering if anyone else has had a problem with the power hatch. I think Chrysler has been offering this as an option since '01... so there should be lots of them out there, and some good info.
Here's the problem : While parked in its normal spot (my driveway, here in Seattle Wa.) I used the key button remote to open the rear hatch. I loaded some things into the back while the engine warmed up for one minute. While sitting in the driver's seat, I pressed the console button to then close the liftgate. It made the usual sound but then stopped... the hatch never even started to close. I waited a minute and tried again... same thing. I got out and tried to close it manually (which you can usually do) but it would not budge. I then tried repositioning the van to a couple different parking angles... still no luck.
My van was now locked in an open configuration with no way to secure it. There is no emergency release to close the hatch if the motor fails and locks the liftgate in the open position.
After being late for work and causing me much aggravation... I drove the van to the dealer that I bought it from. Yes, with the hatch stuck up wide open. I opened the windows and turned on the vent. system.
All the service techs said that they'd never seen this before. They ordered a new motor from Detroit, and it was of course fixed under warranty... a one time fluke they all decided.
Then two weeks later it happened again! This time though, after several button pushing attempts, it finally closed. Needless to say, I am very gun-shy about this feature... You are completely open to the environment when this liftgate is locked up and of course you have no way of locking up your vehicle. So now, I only use the auto feature when its not raining and I can drive right over to the dealer if it should get stuck. This is not a good situation... so I'm wondering if anyone out there has any info or advice regarding this perplexing problem.
By the way, BOTH times this has happened, the situations have been exactly the same : parked in the exact same spot on my driveway, in a slight downward slope. Not steep at all, just not totally flat. Enough that a beachball would roll downhill there. ALSO, both times it was just below freezing out. Somewhere between 29 and 30 degrees F. Enough that both mornings I scrapped some good frost off the windows. And that's about all I can tell you.
I read the owner's manual again and it didn't give any warnings about using the auto rear hatch on a slight downhill or in 29 degree weather. In fact in the last couple months I have used that feature on exactly the same driveway spot many times... and I have used the auto hatch up skiing many times in much colder weather and with more snow and ice ... so I am very concerned. Any helpful thoughts??? Greg
Suspect a wiring or switch problem. I once removed a good starter and installed 2 rebuilt starters one after the other in an afternoon before figuring out the ignition switch was faulty. It's most likely a defective plug connection. Look for one of the wires inserted in a plug that is not "locked in" and backs out when the two halves of the plug are pushed together. This can be most irritating as the problem will come and go. The dealer has a wiring diagram showing where the plugs are located.
hi all...recently the fm only part of my optional infinity sound system has stopped working, am and cd are still good, occasionally fm will start working ok for a few hours and then it suddenly stops with only hissing heard...any ideas? thanks
The rubber stopper on my passenger side sliding door came off on my 2003 Chrysler Voyager LX and I lost it. It's about 2-3 inches down from the top. I went and bought a new rubber piece from the dealership. The service guy told me to stick a thin sharp object (such as a pen or small screwdriver) into the small hole on the top to get the anchoring piece on the back of the stopper to "pop" into the hole and stay. I tried and tried, but to no avail. I'm starting to tear it up. Has anyone else had this happen? I doubt it, but I thought I'd ask. I might try super glue to see if I can at least get the stopper "glued" to the door or something. Without the stopper, a metal "clank" is heard on the back side of the door (opposite the handle) when the door closes and I'm afraid of possible long term damage. Thanks.
Your are not so odd, as that has happened to me on 2 different caravans. On one van, I simply pushed and twisted the stopper "nipple" until it popped in. On another, it wouldn't go in so easily, so I lubricated the nipple, then did the push and twist action and it popped in. It takes several turns, all the while keeping the pressure on, but it will work.
Well, that was kind of what I was hoping would happen. I guess I could have pressed the issue. I just turned 10,000 miles. I bought the replacement piece at the dealer and got a guy in the service department to tell me about it, but there was never an offer to fix it under warranty. I get the feeling that the stopper is classified as "trim" and trim does not get covered under warranty, I believe. I took some Devcon Super Glue and glued it to the door. We'll see how that works.
You may want to check your warranty booklet. Trim is not a wear item and therefore should be covered under your warranty. Since you were there buying the part already, you might as well have them do the work for you.
How did you glue the piece on? Did you cut the nipple off? I have a feeling the superglue will not work for long (I work for a glue company) as the the Devcon is a cyanoacrylate, and has poor heat/cold resistance. May last a year or so.
I am new to this board and not sure if it is the right place to post the following. If not, please pardon me for disturbing.
I would like to buy my first van. I got a quote from a dealer. Is it a good deal for me? 2004 Dodge/Caravan SE. $17,500 Options: sunscreen glass and rear defroster.
Edmund's TMV pricing on a 2004 Caravan SE with the same options is $17,603. MSRP as equipped is $23,110. There is currently a $3500 DaimlerChrysler rebate on all 2004 Caravans. The price you were quoted is only $103 more than Edmund's TMV so it appears you are getting a reasonably good deal. Have you test driven the Caravan SE with 4 cyl engine? Is your budget very limited? A Caravan SXT with the 3.3L V6 is quieter with much better performance and almost the same gas mileage. I feel the 4 cyl engine is too small for satisfactory performance in a minivan that weighs about 3800 lbs. If you have been driving underpowered vehicles like a Volkswagen bus, you would be satisfied with a 4 cyl Caravan that has much more comfort with better performance and better fuel economy than the VW bus.
Advertised price on a 2005 Caravan SE in my town (Twin Cities) is $16,999, less $1000 trade-in bonus = $15,999. But I don't know what equipment that van has. The 2005 short vans aren't much different from the 2004s, but the depreciation on the 2005s will be a little less. The same dealer has 2004 Caravan SXTs with the Popular Equipment Group for $17,599 (after the trade-in bonus).
hansienna: I haven't tested drive it yet. Also my budget is really tight. Since I haven't checked the quotes for SXT yet, as you suggested, I will try to get some.
backy: I don't think I will have a trade-in. I only have a 88 Honda which broke down recently and motor needs work. From what you suggested, will I be targeting for something around $16,500? I think it is not like Toyota/Sienna, for Carvan, supply is way greater than demand, there should be some room for the price. Is is correct? BTW, I'm in southeastern Atlantic.
I did not cut the nipple off. I put some on the nipple and on the rubber piece itself. If it holds a year then it would not be too much of a hassle to do this once a year. I was going to go with a Loctite product, but the Devcon gave me more glue for the same money. We'll see what happens.
I am looking into buying a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport and would like some input from those who already own one. The one I am looking at has 30,000 original miles and was owned by a rental co in S. Carolina. I would also like some info about towing a small boat behind it, and if it is going to cause any trouble. Any info will help. Thanks!
Which engine does it have? Is it set up for towing now? I would be careful buying a vehicle from a rental company--you know how folks treat rental vehicles! If it's been properly maintained then I would think you should have no problems. I used to have a 2001 Chrysler Voyager (the twin van) and drove it with no problems for 2 years until I upgraded to a nicer 2003 model. I've had it almost a year with no real problems with it, either. Good luck!
We have a 2001 one all wheel drive that has had a very serious vibration problem since we got it. We were told it was nothing but it keeps getting worse and now we have been told that they are not planning on fixing it (after they guaranteed us it would be fixed). Other than that we have had a few little kinds but nothing serious.
Rental Agency vehicles are usually driven by people who beat the crap out of the rental. After all, they aren't making monthly payments so why care about abusing the vehicle?
Doesn't your 03 Caravan have a 3year /36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty in addition to the 7 year/70,000 mile powertrain warranty (or the metric equivalent to 36,000 miles and 70,000 miles of the USA Warranty)? DaimlerChrysler should replace the transmission at NO COST to you if it is not working properly since you had it towed when you first noticed a problem. That is the advantage of buying a vehicle NEW: Factory Warranty.
candlemaker: Do you have them write up a service order each and every time you take it in? Be sure you have them put in writing every problems as you tell them. Keep every copy of every service order. When and if major problem occur, you will have established a written record of problems that occurred early in the life of the vehicle. You will be more likely to get problems fixed at DaimlerChrysler's expense under the written factory warranty you got when you purchased your vehicle new if you keep the documentation.
Yes, They write it up just as I explain it and give me a copy. I have all they have given me so far. One of them even says the leak was caused by extreme cold weather.I have a file open with Chrysler and have told them if it is too cold for the van they should not be selling it in Canada !
I bought a 2001 with 15,000 km on it two years ago. I have had numerous problems with it. Mainly, warped rotors (2 sets), oil leaks due to a defective sensor, transmission oil leaks (Dealer replace the Solenoid pack), electrical ( replaced ignition wires among other parts), rusting tailgate (lower seam). If you read enough posts on this site you will see the same problems reported by other owners.
I have a 2001 Caravan with the 3yr 60,000Km bumper to bumper warranty about to expire at the end of March. I still have another 2yrs on the powertrain warranty. My question is - should I buy an extended bumper to bumper warranty for an additional 2yrs. The dealer wants $2000 for this. He has mentioned that the powertrain warranty does not cover any electrical components in the transmission. Is it worth paying $2000 for items not covered by the basic powertrain warranty?
2001 Caravan with 45,000KM on it. I have had a hesitation problem with the van for the past 10 months. It was quite bad a couple of months ago and the dealer replace the ignition wires. Though the hesitation problem isn't as bad now it nevertheless still remains. You can feel the steering wheel shake when idling. If you look at the parking/drive indicator you can see the lights flicker ( just slightly). The dealer can not find any codes and has mentioned that I would need a throttle body and fuel injector cleaning ($230). He can't guarantee that this would fix the problem. I can't believe that a van with only 45,000km would need it's injectors cleaned. I have had cars with 200,000km without having had the injectors cleaned. Has anyone encountered a similar problem?
I would say NO it is not worth $2000. I think your dealer is wrong or else DaimlerChrysler is very unethical to call it a "Powertrain Warranty". Every item in the powertrain should be covered under a powertrain warranty although electrical items such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train. If DaimlerChrysler does not cover everything in the powertrain, it may be better to buy a Toyota or Honda for the next vehicle.
"I think your dealer is wrong or else DaimlerChrysler is very unethical to call it a "Powertrain Warranty". Every item in the powertrain should be covered under a powertrain warranty although electrical items such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train."
I don't understand your argument. No manufacturer is going to cover electrical components in the powertrain warranty. Power windows are not part of the powertrain.
Hansienna's sentence was just awkwardly worded. What I am sure he meant was that electrical components associated with the drive train should be included in a powertrain warranty, while other electrical components such as power windows are obviously not covered as they are not part of the drive train.
What is or isn't covered in the basic power train warranty is up to gino45 to determine from the warranty literature that came with the van.
I myself would never spend $2000 for two years of insurance for a bumper to bumper extension. You can spend quite a bit of money on repairs and not get up to $2000, so I would save the $2k and use it for any repairs that show up. You will likely still have most of that $2k left at the end of the additional two years.
I have a 2001 T&C. At 35,000 miles the engine started running rough as though one cylinder was faulty. The replacement of one fuel injector solved the problem.
WE got a quote of $18300 plus tax and fees for Carvan SXT with only roof rack as option. (18300 includes 1000 trade in cash and 2000 cash back) Were in New Jersey. From reading this site it appears we ARE NOT getting a great deal, I saw quote of 16000 is this correct? Our deal also has 0% finance for 72 months. Maybe we should wait on this deal, end of month is coming and we've seen newspaper ads were dealer also include their own discount. Any thoughts appreciated.
I would counter them an offer (reasonable) this coming weekend and tell them they can give you a call if they are interested in selling you the van. Or you can send out the same offer to all dealers close to you.
Should have written 2 sentences: #1. Everything in the powertrain should be covered by the 7 year 70,000 mile Powertrain Warranty....even if there are electrical components within the transmission. #2. Electrical items not part of the powertrain, such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train and would NOT be covered by the 7/70,000 Powertrain Warranty.
I have a 1998 dodge caravan sport 3.8 litre and I need to change both the upper and lower radiator hoses. Are there any "trick of the trade" regarding how to access the clamps on each end. The upper hose where it connects to the radiator particularly looks difficult to access
Are there any "trick of the trade" regarding how to access the clamps on each end. The upper hose where it connects to the radiator particularly looks difficult to access
Any tips would be appreciated
Yeah, here is the tip that always works for me... get a pro to do it. Seriously, I wish I was mechanically inclined enough to do things like that myself. My dad always did all his own car repairs. Maybe helping him all those years is what causes me to not even want to try? Good luck getting it fixed!
Comments
You are correct--that is a crock. My '99 GCS was sitting out all night in -21 F weather this weekend and started and ran just fine, just as it has for the past five Minnesota winters.
Try a Volvo? They're born in the cold, they should work fine there.....
Lately, the driver's seat warmer refuses to heat. There’s a fuse labeled “Seats” in the “Fuse and Relay Center” box under the hood, but all motors in the seats work. I don’t recognize any other fuse or relay that might apply. The rocker switch indicator lights light up when either “Low” or “High” is pushed.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Is there an easy fix?
Here's the problem : While parked in its normal spot (my driveway, here in Seattle Wa.) I used the key button remote to open the rear hatch. I loaded some things into the back while the engine warmed up for one minute. While sitting in the driver's seat, I pressed the console button to then close the liftgate. It made the usual sound but then stopped... the hatch never even started to close. I waited a minute and tried again... same thing. I got out and tried to close it manually (which you can usually do) but it would not budge. I then tried repositioning the van to a couple different parking angles... still no luck.
My van was now locked in an open configuration with no way to secure it. There is no emergency release to close the hatch if the motor fails and locks the liftgate in the open position.
After being late for work and causing me much aggravation... I drove the van to the dealer that I bought it from. Yes, with the hatch stuck up wide open. I opened the windows and turned on the vent. system.
All the service techs said that they'd never seen this before. They ordered a new motor from Detroit, and it was of course fixed under warranty... a one time fluke they all decided.
Then two weeks later it happened again! This time though, after several button pushing attempts, it finally closed. Needless to say, I am very gun-shy about this feature... You are completely open to the environment when this liftgate is locked up and of course you have no way of locking up your vehicle. So now, I only use the auto feature when its not raining and I can drive right over to the dealer if it should get stuck. This is not a good situation... so I'm wondering if anyone out there has any info or advice regarding this perplexing problem.
By the way, BOTH times this has happened, the situations have been exactly the same : parked in the exact same spot on my driveway, in a slight downward slope. Not steep at all, just not totally flat. Enough that a beachball would roll downhill there. ALSO, both times it was just below freezing out. Somewhere between 29 and 30 degrees F. Enough that both mornings I scrapped some good frost off the windows. And that's about all I can tell you.
I read the owner's manual again and it didn't give any warnings about using the auto rear hatch on a slight downhill or in 29 degree weather. In fact in the last couple months I have used that feature on exactly the same driveway spot many times... and I have used the auto hatch up skiing many times in much colder weather and with more snow and ice ... so I am very concerned. Any helpful thoughts??? Greg
It's most likely a defective plug connection. Look for one of the wires inserted in a plug that is not "locked in" and backs out when the two halves of the plug are pushed together. This can be most irritating as the problem will come and go. The dealer has a wiring diagram showing where the plugs are located.
I am new to this board and not sure if it is the right place to post the following. If not, please
pardon me for disturbing.
I would like to buy my first van. I got a quote from a dealer. Is it a good deal for me?
2004 Dodge/Caravan SE. $17,500
Options: sunscreen glass and rear defroster.
Thanks .
The price you were quoted is only $103 more than Edmund's TMV so it appears you are getting a reasonably good deal.
Have you test driven the Caravan SE with 4 cyl engine? Is your budget very limited? A Caravan SXT with the 3.3L V6 is quieter with much better performance and almost the same gas mileage. I feel the 4 cyl engine is too small for satisfactory performance in a minivan that weighs about 3800 lbs. If you have been driving underpowered vehicles like a Volkswagen bus, you would be satisfied with a 4 cyl Caravan that has much more comfort with better performance and better fuel economy than the VW bus.
hansienna: I haven't tested drive it yet. Also my budget is really tight. Since I haven't checked the quotes for SXT yet, as you suggested, I will try to get some.
backy: I don't think I will have a trade-in. I only have a 88 Honda which broke down recently and motor needs work. From what you suggested, will I be targeting for something around $16,500?
I think it is not like Toyota/Sienna, for Carvan, supply is way greater than demand, there should be some room for the price. Is is correct?
BTW, I'm in southeastern Atlantic.
Thanks again
Regards,
Dusty
DaimlerChrysler should replace the transmission at NO COST to you if it is not working properly since you had it towed when you first noticed a problem. That is the advantage of buying a vehicle NEW: Factory Warranty.
When and if major problem occur, you will have established a written record of problems that occurred early in the life of the vehicle.
You will be more likely to get problems fixed at DaimlerChrysler's expense under the written factory warranty you got when you purchased your vehicle new if you keep the documentation.
They write it up just as I explain it and give me a copy. I have all they have given me so far. One of them even says the leak was caused by extreme cold weather.I have a file open with Chrysler and have told them if it is too cold for the van they should not be selling it in Canada !
Every item in the powertrain should be covered under a powertrain warranty although electrical items such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train.
If DaimlerChrysler does not cover everything in the powertrain, it may be better to buy a Toyota or Honda for the next vehicle.
Every item in the powertrain should be covered under a powertrain warranty although electrical items such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train."
I don't understand your argument. No manufacturer is going to cover electrical components in the powertrain warranty. Power windows are not part of the powertrain.
What is or isn't covered in the basic power train warranty is up to gino45 to determine from the warranty literature that came with the van.
I myself would never spend $2000 for two years of insurance for a bumper to bumper extension. You can spend quite a bit of money on repairs and not get up to $2000, so I would save the $2k and use it for any repairs that show up. You will likely still have most of that $2k left at the end of the additional two years.
#1. Everything in the powertrain should be covered by the 7 year 70,000 mile Powertrain Warranty....even if there are electrical components within the transmission.
#2. Electrical items not part of the powertrain, such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train and would NOT be covered by the 7/70,000 Powertrain Warranty.
Any tips would be appreciated
Any tips would be appreciated
Yeah, here is the tip that always works for me... get a pro to do it. Seriously, I wish I was mechanically inclined enough to do things like that myself. My dad always did all his own car repairs. Maybe helping him all those years is what causes me to not even want to try? Good luck getting it fixed!