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http://www.greatimes.ru/cars/audia62004.html
http://www.greatimes.ru/cars/audia62004.html
Regards,
mc
mc
Thanks for the link to the photos, Will. I've seen similar shots before. I wouldn't be surprised if the next A6 DOES end up looking like one of the top two photos. The other photo looks like the existing A6 with a bit of tweaking. I think the Avant is an old model A6, or 100, before Audi changed the designations.
While I'm hardly an expert, the top two photo's still look like they've been Photoshopped a bit. However, this doesn't necessarily mean this isn't what the next A6 will look like. I've seen the basic grill and headlight treatment on other spy shot mock-ups, and the overall design is consistent with Audi trends. But I also think that the next A6 may look nothing like it.
I'm not happy with the grill either. The rest of the car looks pretty much exactly like the current A6, except for slight differences to the rear.
I bought the A6 at New Country Audi in Greenwich, CT, near where I live. I had to buy the S6 from a dealer in Chicago to get the features I want.
I called both dealers about the problems with the Telematics system, and both told me they had too little experience with the Telematics to help me. Neither offered even to have me bring the car in. So I contacted Audi USA. They took all the information and assigned a case number for each car, telling me someone would call me back within two days. I waited five days, but they never called back. So I called them back twice, and on the second call they said the Greenwich dealer was going to get in touch with me.
He never did, so I called him. Since I was getting ready to get rid of the A6 and keep the S6, I told him that was the car I wanted to bring in for service on the Telematics. He could not find the S6 in his database, and when I told him I had bought it at another dealer, he said he would prefer to work only on the A6, which had been bought at his dealership.
(I had tried to buy the S6 from his dealership, but they did not have one in stock with the options I wanted. I asked them to do a search and swap. Two days later, they told me they had searched and turned up nothing. I got on the internet myself and found two cars within twenty minutes . . . one at the Chicago dealer where I eventually bought the car. It was obvious that New Country in Greenwich had not even searched in order to try to force me to take one out of their stock that did not have the options I wanted.)
Audi dealer service is despicable . . . and don't expect any help from Audi USA.
I love these two cars, but they will be the last Audis I own. They simply cost too much to put up with dealers who lie and who have no interest in servicing them.
But the problem ultimately was fixed by "leaving my car in my driveway overnight so that the On*star team could send the required software to the unit" -- or so they said. Whatever they did, when I pulled the car out of the garage at 11PM the On*star was not functioning but by 8:30AM all was right with the world.
The initial problem, however, was that the On*star Sat Nav wire was connected to the Audi Sat Nav system and NOT to On*star. It is possible to have sat nav without On*star, but with On*star GPS must be enabled (but not Sat Navs functions). Ditto, you can have On*star without a phone, but you cannot have a phone without On*star.
The 11 days it took were mainly diagnosing the problem, the fix was relatively easy, then park it outside and let On*star reboot the system (or whatever).
There seem to be so few people at On*star and at Audi that know ALL the systems that getting them to speak to each other live at the same time, rather than voice mail messages, must be tactically difficult.
Now that everything is working, I can say I love it, but I wish they would have gotten their act together on THEIR dime (or $750 lease payment as it were) rather than MINE.
I would, nevertheless, highly recommend the entire telematics ensemble, however.
Just make them prove that they have it functioning before you pay them and drive off into the sunset.
And, on the other point, my experience with AoA has been mainly "wow, they treat me VERY WELL!"
So sorry your experience has been so crappy.
When I first experienced the problem with the A6 right after buying it in May and got no help from the dealer, I contacted On*Star to see if they could help with the problem. They said the problem was with the car and not with their system. I accepted that assertion, since the On*Star system is several years old but Telematics was brand new. Also, I cut the dealer some slack because, in all fairness, I had bought the first car they sold with Telematics . . . and I know it takes a while for dealer service shops to gain experience with new features. But that was May and this is December. At this point, it's just plain disinterest on their part.
Having spent over $110,000 on Audis this year, I find it absurd that I have to go on the internet and plead with other consumers for help instead of getting assistance from Audi USA or Audi dealers. If they expect to play in the luxury car game, they are going to have to do better than this. They badly need to take a lesson from my Lexus dealer.
I do not know if the treatment at my Audi dealer is in the "Lexus League" -- I just know that I am, generally, pleased with it.
ON*star, themselves, were very responsive, very concerned -- my god they called me practically every day with a progress report (which, in all truth, was really content free in that they called me just to tell me that they were concerned, but they actually had no real explanations -- but they did the Hawthorne Experiment thing and in that respect, it worked).
I saw about 80 hours of shop time wherein my Audi tech was working with the ON*star tech probably doing trial and error activities.
Again, I applauld the effort, the follow up, the apologies -- it was NOT my dealer's fault after all was said and done. I look at it this way, the dealer should maintain and repair -- technically nothing was "broken" -- something was "plugged in wrong" to put it simply -- but my dealer had to turn into a diagnostic provider -- which usually goes with the territory, but this time On*star kept saying "this can't be, this can't be." So I cut the dealer slack.
If the dealer could be faulted for anything, in hindsight, it was not making 110% certain that the On*star was working correctly before I made my first lease payment. Heck, I could have waited another 11 days -- and I would never have even known then.
So I empathize and agree with you -- and I'll even go so far as to offer help to you (on my dealer's behalf) -- the dealer is Northland Audi, the Service Manager is Bill Fliehman, the Salesman is Ralph Winters and their telephone number is 513 851 5900 -- they, by now, must know every ON*star certified Audi advisor and ON*star technical resolution person in North America.
Maybe they can help their "brother" dealer resolve your issue -- of course the way the world wags, they may not have much incentive to do so if the other dealer, the so far unsuccesful dealer, gets paid for their efforts. We still are capitalists, remember?
What the heck, it may be worth a shot.
I don't know what else I can do -- but the Internet is the most powerful attention getting device I've ever seen in my 50 years on planet earth.
Lets give them a clue (from the Cluetrain Manifesto, btw).
-- Mark
However, repairs on Audis (and frankly all European cars) can be breathtakingly expensive. My service tech says change timing belt @ 60K not 90K -- change oil and filter every time and do so at 5K miles. Change ALL fluids regularly and frequently. Wash and wax car regularly and frequently. Keep everthing well "lubed" that is.
Use the best gas possible -- cheap gas is a false economy.
Buy the extended Audi warranty.
==========
These are the things the service manager and techs recommend and perform on their own Audis -- and apparently they get to use the dealership to perform the work on their own cars (and also get parts @ cost).
Lot of very high milage good looking "older" Audis at my dealership.
I personally -- so far -- have not had the money to keep a car past the 50K mark -- except one time, see below.
I have "talked myself into" thinking that keeping the car past 50K or 36 months is more expensive than a permanent car payment (lease) and always having a "relatively" new car.
Who knows, I could be operating under a "false economy" myself.
I just have read too many horror stories -- about cars in general -- and I like having the latest and greatest, to keep a car, any car past its warranty (original or aftermarket -- as I did keep a 1988 Audi 80 quattro 100,000 miles with an extended warranty).
There are a number of differences this year; new car and different winter tires are the biggest. My expectations for cornering are much higher with this car, my first Audi, than for previous cars. Up until I changed tires a couple weeks ago, I was running the stock Michelin HX Pilot MXM4 tires. Within minutes of driving after the Nokian Hakkapeliitta Q were installed, I noticed more drifting while cornering. It just feels "squishy".
On other cars I have installed Hakkapeliitta 1 and NRW tires, and did not have that sensation, but then they weren't on an Audi, either. I also notice more body roll. I increased the inflation to 38 psi from the 35 psi the installer set. I might try a higher value again.
I read as much as I could for reviews and opinions on the Qs before I bought them. I even talked to several Nokian dealers. All recommended the Q. It was never clear to me why people would switch to a winter tire and then put on the NRWs, which are rated as all-season tires. It seemed like a half-way measure. But, the NRWs are certainly a much higher performance tire on dry, cold roads. The Hakkapeliitta 1s are a winter only tire for use with or without studs.
I went with the Qs because they were designed as the best studless ice and snow tire Nokian makes. I went with Nokian because I have liked the other Nokian (then Nokia) tires I used. To be fair, we've had almost no ice or snow in the Twin Cities yet.
The Q's icy road performance is improved by the spiral siping of the tread. I suspect this is also the reason for the degraded cornering performance. The tread can be easily deflected with your thumb. Having lots of squeegees seeking traction on ice is probably better than one stiff block of tread, but I guess there is a price to pay for that performance.
I'll wait at least one full season (more if we don't get much snow this year) before second-guessing my decision, but right now I am have doubts whether the Qs were the correct winter tire choice. Of course all it will take is one freezing rain storm to remove my doubts.
Some other cars I have had seemed little effected by tires. But then again, Audis are just higher performance overall.
My "guess" is that you have done OK!
I drove about 20 miles in a snowstorm last Thursday, and was very impressed with my '01 2.7T. While my aging Conti's provided only adequate traction, the quattro, ESP and ABS all worked seamlessly and very effectively. This produced performance vastly superior, and far less tricky than any other car I've driven in the snow. As usual, the limiting factors are more other drivers and and their vehicles, rather than what my car can or can't do.
It used to snow a lot in NJ, and I've had to do plenty of driving in it. The past 15 years have largely produced mild winters, and I think some younger folks may not have too much experience in the snow. I saw one younger gentleman with a 3-serries with 18" wheels and maximum performance summer tires who couldn't even get it out of his local street. Hope he turned it around and went back, and waited for the plows.
I'm not familiar with the Pilot MXM4 tires, but assume they're maximum performance summer tires. From what I've read of many posts on AudiWorld on this topic, pretty much everyone has described what you did Greg. But if you are driving were people regularly drive in snow and ice, and expect to encounter it, I've no doubt you'll be very happy to be wearing what you are.
Again from AudiWorld, a lot of posters seem to have liked Bridgestone's Blizzak series of tires. Here's what Tirerack's latest survey results show
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/winter.jsp
On our allroad I use more of a high performance winter tire, the Pirelli Winter 210, which I bought at Tire Rack before last season, on closeout for $99 each (great deal in the allroad's larger size). Although better than the stock all season Pirelli P6 "allroad" tire when driving on ice and snow, they are no match for the Blizzak's in really bad conditions (which we get maybe a dozen times a year - I also live in the Twin Cities). They do ride very well, however - MUCH better than the cheaper Blizzak's - on dry pavement, which you'd expect with a "H" rated winter tire. Again, it's a compromise, and you just have to go with the combination that's right for you. In either car, I never worry about getting stuck or spinning off the highway, which for me is a big stress-reliever, especially when my wife and daughter are either driving separately, or are passengers in my car). When you live here, usually from about mid-November through March, putting winter tires on a quattro-driven Audi gives peace of mind that's hard to beat.
I agree with the other previous posts from today that it is the OTHER drivers that limit what I can do with Audi Quattro in the wintertime.
The combination of Quattro,and the other electronic "programs" have made winter driving a pleasure here in MN. during the heavy snow season.
The only real challenge I have noticed is driving on "black ice"- especially on some of the bridges- that has been treacherous on certain winter days in the last 2 seasons of winter Audi driving.
Where is winter this year? No winter at all in St. Paul yet- the weather has been simply amazing -temps. in the 30's and 40's -extremely pleasant!!
This is the fourth set I've bought. Two of those went with the car when we sold it, and only one set was replaced because of wear. This was the NRW set, which are rated as All-Season, and I left on the car for a summer or two. The NRWs are an H-rated tire, unlike the Qs which are Q-rated. It seems that NRWs are more popular with Audi/Nokian owners than the Hakka 1s or Qs. My thinking was to go for the best ice and snow performance, which is the Q. April on AW has recommended the NRW, but I don't remember seeing any comments from her on the Q. The Hakka Q is a newer design (1999) and not as well known as the older designs. Of course even in Minnesota, most winter travel is on dry roads, so the NRWs might be a better choice most days. There are always trade-offs, aren't there...
Tim, you mentioned NW NJ. In the 80s I used to visit a family that had a place in Hope, NJ. What a pretty area. The western side is quite a bit different from the eastern side. The Michelin Pilot HX MXM4 is the All Season tire that came on my 2002 A6. Apparently it is also used on 540s and Volvo S80s. I don't know what % of 2002 were shipped with the MXM4s, but I have been pleased with them. Here is a description :
"HX MXM4
All-season driveability, plus superior highway comfort, low noise levels, and exceptional wet and dry handling makes this world class touring radial the perfect choice for today's luxury performance coupes, sedans, and roadsters. Available in 65 series and lower and H-, V-, W-, and Z-speed ratings."
Mark, hope you enjoy the new Allroad and that the telematics problems are all behind. It is good of you to volunteer for bleeding edge service.
Cheers, Greg
Thus far, I cannot see any reason to chip it -- but I want to. I just can't imagine what will happen -- I'll be getting tickets all the time.
I can see myself with the quickest station wagon in the world!
Woo Woo.
Anyone need any On*star guidance -- no pun intended -- I'll be glad to help them.
I am in market for a new or used car and absolutely think the A6 is the best looking car on the road. There is a black 2000 A6 2.8 Quattro with 25K miles for sale at a dealer for $24,450 and it is certified. Sounds like a good deal to me based on Edmunds, the car is in great shape and looks new. What has been the service record of this car? Any ideas and help is greatly appreciated.
However, I know personally that my dealer has an 01 A6 4.2 that would be perhaps "only" 20% to 25% more and also have the extended warranty. I know, cause it used to be mine. 37K
Tis avail to be leased as well.
The one you are looking at to BUY, I assume, will cost about as much as a 2002 or 2003 A6 quattro 3.0 would cost to lease -- brand new, based on what I have seen in terms of lease payments.
Just another perspective. If you really like the one you posted here, do find out about the original warranty expiration and if it still looks good and it meets your price -- go for it.
This may spoil it for you, but try testing an A6 3.0 (02 or 03) and you may find that that 2.8 just doesn't have enough grunt, tho. And, the 4.2 -- can you say zooooooom?!
I drive too many miles a year (20K to 23K) for a lease to make sense...been down that road before and won't do it again.
Can't say enough about the service I have received there. Usually next day appt's and no wait longer than 3 days.
Happy Holidays,
DS
Thanks
How does the quattro system affect handling when taking sharp, fast turns on *dry* roads? My salesperson it would greatly enhance the "road holding" capability on tight turns over dry pavement, but I don't know if he was just trying to sell me extra options.
That granted, I'd rather drive quattro under almost any conditions rather than any other drive layout. The 50/50 torque split under dry conditions provides neutral handling with neither the tendency to under-steer of FWD, or the oversteer of RWD. But I can still tighten the line with either the application of brake or throttle. In the hands of really skilled driver, quattro will do things that can't be done with other drive layouts. I believe it was banned in racing for many years for just that reason.
I also find that quattro makes the car more forgiving. Got Dumb? Don't panic, that's OK, point-and-shoot and you can manage the car really well with throttle. quattro can help pull you out of what you're headed into. Combine that with ESP and ABS, and you've really got to mess up badly to put it in the bushes.
And while it may not rain too much, or ever snow, if you are driving quattro in less than dry conditions, you'll appreciate quattro compared to either FWD or RWD.
While I've not spent time driving a BMW, I'd have to think the quattro will make the Audi more forgiving, though I have no doubt a RWD on perfectly dry pavement will offer the utmost in handling.
I drive a 2.7T manual, it really comes down to how much brake you use in the turns. If you take turns very fast, thus needing almost all your brake power to negotiate the turn, then quattro will be a disadvantage. The AWD system uses the brakes to distribute power to the wheels. In sharp cornering the wheels spin at considerably different speeds, enough so to activate the ABS and cause unruly handling.
This is my experience with a 2000 A6-2.7T compared to a 2000 Lincoln LS manual.
I'd appreciate answers to any or all of the following from anyone who has the telematics option with a phone installed:
(1) In addition to the telematics package, what did it cost for the phone & installation?
(2) Is the phone "trivial" to insert/remove in the car? I.E. is it just a clip-in cradle, with no wires to plug-in or unplug?
(3) What happens if you push the phone button and the phone is not in the cradle?
(4) A picture the dealer has of the install shows the cradle is mounted in the center console, and flips out. I presume the cradle can be put back in the console (and the console closed) with the phone installed and everything still works fine. Is this correct? Is there any reason not to do this (since the phone is completely hands free)?
(5) Does the stereo simply mute during a phone call -- or does it pause any cassette or CD that might be playing?
(6) Does any information from the phone display in the driver information area in the dash (e.g. the phone number being called, caller ID info, etc.)?
Thanks for any info you might be able to provide. We love our current A6 (2000) and are looking forward to getting a 2003, but I'm still trying to decide if the telematics system is ready for prime time.
"The AWD system uses the brakes to distribute power to the wheels. In sharp cornering the wheels spin at considerably different speeds, enough so to activate the ABS and cause unruly handling."
I thought quattro was a largely a product of the Torsen differential and electronics like EDL, unlike other AWD systems, such as Mercedes', which DO use the brakes to limit slippage at any given wheel.
I've mostly had the ABS activate when more or less going straight in very slippery conditions like snow. Since my 2.7T is an '01, it also has ESP, and my understanding is that ESP works in combination with ABS. I do remember two notable occasions when ESP/ABS activated: The first was on dry pavement when I came into a sharp turn too hard. The ESP flashed briefly, and a slight thump when one of the rear wheels momentarily was braked. And the drama was over. I was back on course with perfect control of the car.
The second situation was more entertaining: I was on snow after having a tire replaced. Somehow, I wound up with 10 PSI less in my rear tires. I was negotiating a gentle curve at moderate speed, and my rear end came loose and began to gradually drift to the outside of the curve. Apparently, the motion was too slight and gradual to exceed the thresholds of the yaw sensors. I counter-steered, and the rear end moved a little in the other direction. But since this was a very narrow road, and I had a car about to approach in the other direction, I panicked and lightly touched the brakes.
Boy did I get lucky! Unlike other cars, where brake application in a skid is likely to accentuate the problem, from the moment I touched the brake pedal, the skid was eliminated. Undoubtedly this was a product of the ABS/ESP software working in combination to sense and correct the problem faster than I could even think about it.
So, while I find your experience regarding ABS causing unruly handling when braking surprising, I can say from my own experience, that in post 2000 cars equipped with both ABS and ESP, the opposite is true. The combination of ABS/ESP greatly enhances stability when braking and cornering simultaneously, or under any other conditions.
Temperature effects cold start oil characteristics but doesn't effect engine turn off. Low oil pressure could be a possible cause but a squealing turbo is a damaged turbo.
Let us know what it is....
Great discussion group!! I just bought a 1999 A6 Quattro for $19800, which includes a 36 month/36000 extended warranty. Mileage is at 49,300.
Test drive for an hour or so and it seems to drive very well. Do you folks feel I made a wise choice? Any good tips that I should be aware of, besides the regular maintenance checkups and oil changes, etc.?
I suggest that you verify that all recall work was accomplished. We had a 1999 A6 which had several important recalls, one of which was the fuel gauge sensor.
Further, if you are contemplating keeping the vehicle beyond the warranty period, follow the suggested maintenance carefully. The service intervals, for the non-turbo 1999's, is 7,500 miles. Also, I would not hesitate to use a synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1.
One last thought: your performance will be somewhat superior if you utilize the reccomended premium fuel. Good luck with your purchase.
http://www.audiworld.com/forum/index.html
There are, or were, several posters who had VAG tools and reprogramed these and other codes themselves. My thinking is they're likely to know, or know how to obtain the '03 codes.
I'm surprised your dealer doesn't know. They're not Pontiac dealers are they?
;-)
http://www.epinions.com/content_83769069188
Great car - we love our 2000 - but frustrating lack of info on the "toys." And having had the auto-lock and the remote window rollup/rolldown it would be frustrating to pay the $$$ for a 2003 and lose these features - minor things I admit, but you do get used to things (isn't that why we buy $40,000 cars instead of $15,000 cars??)
$995
(2) Is the phone "trivial" to insert/remove in the car? I.E. is it just a clip-in cradle, with no wires to plug-in or unplug?
It is very easy to plug and unplug the phone, can be done with one hand even while driving.
(3) What happens if you push the phone button and the phone is not in the cradle?
The phone works anyway -- but not the phone in your pocket. The On*star system has a phone too. If you push the button and the V60 phone is NOT in the cradle, you will hear a voice prompt say "READY" -- then, if you say "DIAL" it says "NUMBER PLEASE" -- then you say "five" and it repeats "FIVE" you say "one" and it repeats "ONE" and so on until you have recited the entire number -- then you say "dial" and it says "CALLING" the phone rings and your party answers and you talk. You can also program this feature to respond to your saying "call" -- if you have previously loaded a number with a NAME TAG on it it will call "MOM" -- it is very slick and seems to understand male, female and even accents, within limits.
If this doesn't work, it is because you didn't purchase "units" -- easy to check, press phone button car says "READY" you say, "units" it says "ADD or VERIFY" you say "verify" and it says "YOU HAVE 54 UNITS REMAINING, GOODBYE!" Thats it -- it responds to dozens of voice commands -- and it will tell you if you say "HELP" when it says "READY."
(4) A picture the dealer has of the install shows the cradle is mounted in the center console, and flips out. I presume the cradle can be put back in the console (and the console closed) with the phone installed and everything still works fine. Is this correct? Is there any reason not to do this (since the phone is completely hands free)?
You are correct in your assumptions. The only reason to pop out the phone is when you are checking voice mail and you have to issue commands using the touch pad on the Motorola V60.
(5) Does the stereo simply mute during a phone call -- or does it pause any cassette or CD that might be playing?
The stereo mutes, the CD or tape pauses, the display on the head unit reads PHONE and the display between the tach and speedo tells you the number and name of the person you are talking to if you initiated the call and the word INCOMING CALL is displayed when the phone rings -- which can also pause the sound system CD or tape that might be playing.
(6) Does any information from the phone display in the driver information area in the dash (e.g. the phone number being called, caller ID info, etc.)?
Yes, all the above.
======
My door locks in my 03 allroad are programmed to lock at 20km and unlock when I remove the key, the windows go down when I press and hold unlock and the windows and sunroof close when I press and hold the lock button -- or you can always do the same thing by inserting the key into the driver's door.
The dealer did the programming, it took less than 5 minutes. Also did my wife's 2003 TT. As he says, it is not rocket surgery. Or Brain Science either for that matter.
Sorry Gary. :-( I thought someone at AW might have them. It's really frustrating when your dealer is or plays dumb. Especially after reading Mark's post, as his dealer evidently had no problem doing it. AoA evidently has frowned on the reprogramming of certain features, and I suspected the dealer might be playing dumb. Not long ago, Mark posted the name and a phone number for his dealer. Perhaps that dealer could be prevailed upon to divulge the codes to you to relate to YOUR dealer?
Mark - you're undoubtedly right about what happens when you press the phone button with no phone installed IF you live in an area where OnStar Personal Calling is available. Unfortunately, this is not available in San Antonio - and OnStar doesn't have any projected availability date. I called OnStar to get some of my questions answered, and I can't even buy personal calling for use elsewhere in the country. If you (or anyone else) were traveling in this area, personal calling would work for you, since you have it, but I'm out of luck until they sell it here! I would guess that in my situation pressing the phone button with no phone in the cradle would simply connect us to the OnStar system.
I love the concept of the fully integrated phone, but with the problems you had getting it to work, the inexperience of our local dealer, the unavailability of OnStar personal calling (to me the most attractive feature of OnStar), and the $1600+ net cost, I'm inclined to skip telematics altogether and go with a professionally installed hands-free kit. While not invisible, these increase the phone options (Motorola or Nokia), still mute the radio and display "Phone" when the phone's in use (you do lose the number display), and if multiple people (e.g. me & my wife) have the same phone model we can both use the hands free without having to pay $625/phone.
Mark - as I wrote the above I had a thought. Have you tried your installation with a non-Audi V60 phone plugged in? Just curious what it would do -- my guess is it would work fine but you wouldn't get the number displays (just like a "normal" Motorola V60 hands free kit).
As for the codes, as you noted it's not rocket science to change the codes. Took perhaps 2 minutes when they did it to our 2000 3 years ago. I originally really wanted the auto-locking and just had the remote window up/down down for the "coolness" factor. But my wife ('tis her car) uses the remote rolldown all the time - it gets rather warm in San Antonio and it's nice to roll down the windows as you approach the car in the summer. You do get used the these features, and if we buy a new 2003 I definitely want them. The dealer in San Antonio has changed since we bought our 2003, and the new dealer either doesn't have the codes or is "playing dumb." I don't understand why they would do this, since it's a matter of plugging in a connector and changing a couple of numbers! On the other hand, I don't understand why Audi ships the cars with these features disabled, or why AoA would discourage using them.
There are a couple of others, too -- turn on the wipers and the headlights come on low beams automatically. Defaults for the sonar can be changed too -- of course front sonar is not avail in NA only Euroland. I read about several other features that are available, but I can't recall them now. Perhaps someone has the "list" of the things that can be done with "feature codes" -- I can't remember them.
Why these codes are not "user selected" from a menu beats me too. Some people may not want their cars to automatically relock if the remote is used to unlock, but no door is opened, for example.
And, yes I had a few issues with my On*star and I did find them annoying -- but I assume my issues are very rare. I would still get the stuff!
Now, the phone works to call On*star, but NOT to make an outbound call? HUH? Who thought of that idea.
On the other hand, the calling feature of On*star is NOT to be used for normal talking time -- it is WAY WAY too expensive. The On*star calling feature could cost many multiples of my Verizon monthly airshare minutes. I share a minute pool with my wife and we still have separate phone #'s -- the On*star minutes are something like a buck a minute, I think. I'm still on my "free" 60 minutes.