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It is exceedingly difficult to get down to zero defects on every vehicle made no matter what the brand.
ok, while we are opening up the "problem space", maybe your van has a different manufacturer strut / springs than the typical van?
i guess you could go crazy considering all the possibilities, but if you can start by doing a side-by-side drive with a neighbor, co-worker, friend, or sympathetic dealer and loaner / demo (the same model and same tire), you might be able to better compare.
i still think it's a good idea to ride as a passenger, as your ability to localize sound will change from driver to front passenger, to mid- or rear-passenger seating positions. this can work in your favor if you think the source of sound is comming from one spot rather than from a general area.
In June, the “Service Engine Soon” light appeared, and I brought the vehicle into the dealer for a tune-up, which was recommended to fix the problem. It did not, and during several repeat visits to the Service Department I was sold a variety of parts which did not affect the “Service Engine Soon” light. All told I spent over $2000. At that point, the Service Department assumed responsibility to get the engine running properly, and I returned the vehicle an additional 8-or-so times during the ensuing 3 mos. Each time I drove off the lot the light would re-appear usually within 2-24h. I have had the van in the shop around 12 times since June.
Last week the Service Department had the vehicle for 6 days, and I was told that 6 new injectors were required. These were installed by the dealer (at no cost to myself) and I thought the problem was solved.
Wrong. The light is back on.
Any ideas on what is going on?
dave levy
Go to a different dealership, or an independent garage. It looks to me they have been ripping you off, or at best they do not know what they are doing.
As of today Oct. 2, the light is off again. I'm starting to think there is maybe a short in the wiring to the light bulb? It might explain the intermittent nature of the signal. If that is the case, between myself and the dealer, we've wasted about $5000 parts and labour. We'll see, its only a matter of time before the light goes on again.......
Another thought is the rotors. Some rotors are far more capable of dealing with high heat generated by certain pad compounds, and as it turns out, Napa carries two different types of rotors for our 1998 GC Sport 3.8. Unfortunately, due to the lame structure (as in stability) of the Napa site, I am currently unable to look up the rotors available for your 1992 (I've run into this before, sometimes their site works great, other times it seems to be down for days). I suggest a quick call to your local Napa jobber to find out what he/she has in stock and what they can get their hands on with reasonably short notice.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I wasn't aware NAPA had different compositions of pads! That will likely solve my problem. (I'm still perplexed as to why it only affects the right side.) The last set of pads I bought were from NAPA, and I was told they were the only ones available at that time. I knew something would have to change, sooner or later, as too many people have problems with metalic pads. I think the rotors will be fine with the right pads, and I still have the good original rotors as spares, already turned. I'll try one more set of new (ceramic) pads before I change the isolation valve!
I don't ever use the NAPA web site anymore, unless it's after hours, and I'm desperate.
My earlier (my first) post was removed by the moderator, since I missed the part about not posting my e-mail (which it turns out was wrong anyway). Here's my original post (e-mail removed) so others can follow the thread. Thanks, again!
"1992 Grand Voyager Brake Problems!"
"I have been a mechanic for over 40 years, have worked on everything from Briggs&Stratton to F/A-18 Hornet jet engines (F404-400), have owned my own successful automotive repair shop, and have been a licensed aircraft mechanic since 1979! I know machines! That said, this Voyager is driving me nuts! I have owned this 1992 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE, 3.3L V6 powered vehicle since new, it has never been wrecked, and I have always had excellent service from it, now approaching 200,000 miles (no overhauls, but I do need a new timing chain). That is, until a few years ago! I replaced the front brake pads with metallic pads. I objected to using these, but as the original asbestos pads were no longer made, these were all that were available new anywhere. As I suspected would happen, problems soon surfaced. The metallic pads gave too much stopping power, overriding the vehicles front to rear braking differential system, sometimes causing both front wheels to lockup and skid (the vehicle does NOT have ABS or anti-lock brakes). I readjusted the systems rear mounted differential valve to provide more even braking. This worked great for awhile, then at some point later, the right front only again began locking up, which I determined was due to brake drag overheating the rotor and other components. I performed all of the normal troubleshooting, including disassembly, inspection, repair and systematic replacement of both front brake systems, although no discrepancies were ever found. Both calipers move equally and freely on their support bolts, and proper lubication is applied to caliper contact areas. To this point I have replaced pads (3 times) both rotors (twice), both calipers, both sets of front wheel bearings and hubs, and both front brake flex hoses. Unrelated replacements included tie rod ends, ball joints, CV axles, McPherson struts, and sway bar bushings, due to age and wear. The front end has been checked for alignment and is always close, requiring only minor adjustment! I have never found pressure trapped in any line, but I have disconnected all associated brake lines and verified they are clear of obstruction anyway. Every time I perform inspections and maintenance on the front end to correct this problem, I find nothing amiss, it goes away for a few days (coincidentally?), and shows up again shortly afterwards. I have not replaced the master cylinder, which would affect both (not just the right hand) front brakes. I have not replaced the isolation valve, as it too would affect both sides, not just one. The entire system has been flushed with DOT 3 fluid several times. Light braking pressure provides smooth even braking. More heavily applying the brakes generates progressively more violent vibration coming from the right front area, and driving on rain slicked pavement nearly always results in the right front locking up upon braking. The right front wheel area is normally smoking hot after a 20 or 30 mile drive, and the occurance is much more frequent in hot weather than in cold. I have driven this vehicle on a several hundred mile drive during cold weather without recurrance. If I could find NOS asbestos pads, I would replace everything and start over, but why does it only affect the right side? (I will replace the isolation valve next, as that's all that's left, whether it makes sense or not.) Has anyone experienced similar problems? What was the cure? I'm baffled!"
So, what year is your 150? I'm really looking for a nice clean 170 myself. Even better, I just found a small airport near my new office that has a grass strip and teaches basic flight and tail dragger lessons in late 1940s vintage Cubs. :shades:
Best Regards,
Shipo
What this maybe? any help???
The transmission is slightly overfilled - when warm, the fluid level is 1/2 inch above the HOT line.
My mechanic is planning to drain it, change filter, and refill it next week, after he does more research.
Any ideas?
Just following up on this, in case someone else has a similar breakdown. It was a broken timing belt.
:sick:
The so-called "five star" dealership shop would or could not test relays for me, so I had to buy a spare to switch out and discover that wasn't the problem.
Another bit of advice: third party fuel pumps are often weaker than what originally went into Voyager 3.0.
I have a problem where my Chrysler Voyager's (Dodge Caravan) engine cuts out after some time, around 60 minutes (like when its hot). The electrical system does not respond, can't start the engine. Once the engine cuts out the alarm set light flashes on the dash. My dealer has replaced the ECM (computer) but the problem still exists.
I would appreciate if you could pass me any information on how you fix your problems.
Regards,
Angelo Grasso
Check your pedal free play, also your compensating ports on master cylinder.
I have a similar problem with a 97 Grand Voyager. Replaced front & rear brakes with rotors & drums. Now the front brakes are fine when I start driving, but after about 10-20 miles start overheating, after they cool down it goes back to normal.
I checked the freeplay on the pedal and it had none, so I thought I found the problem but after adjusting it the problem's still there. I rebuilt both calipers and no change. When the brakes are hot, the wheels are a little hard to turn, then I relaese the pressure at the bleeders and calipers retract, which tells me it is not the calipers. I pulled the master cylinder & opened it hoping to find a clogged compensating port or damaged piston seals, but everything looks fine I have many years experience in cars and with F/A-18 Hornets as you (AD machinist's mate, your rate too isn't it).
This vehicle has ABS, but as of today no ABS light yet.
Any Ideas/suggestions?
Thanks
Yes, I was an ADJ, then went ADR (long story), and back to AD. 13 years U.S. Navy (another long story), including Operation Deep Freeze '72, 5 years instructor duty at NATTC Memphis, '76 - '81, USS Kennedy '81 - '82. I've worked on and tested 15 or 20 varieties of jets and several recips. Retired after 20 years at NADEP (NARF) Jax. I live on Haller Airpark (7FL4) south of Jacksonville, and rebuild Cessna 150's to supplement my retirement. I have an SEL private pilot license, with powerplants endorsement, and working on the airframe endorsement. If you ever visited the 150-152 Club on the web, you probably know who I am! I currently have a 150K in restoration, and a 150C pending tailwheel conversion.
Transmission fluid: At least in the older transmissions, like my '92, you never want to use Dextron, regardless of what it says in the manuals! Dextron will swell the internal seals and cause all kinds of shifting and other problems, including external leaks. This will require an overhaul to replace all seals! This is experience talking! I use Amco ATF3 exlusively in my '92, and the Son's '86 and '90 Daytona's, with no problems noted. Later models MAY tolerate Dextron, but I wouldn't bet my transmission on it!
BTW, NAPA used to list 2 rotors for just about everything! One listing is for un-turned rotors, the other is the identical rotor that has been turned! I always bought the un-turned rotors (cheaper) and used a dial indicator to check them for true! They don't need turning! Cleaned the oil off and used them right out of the box!
The person with the engine that stops after 60 minutes, we need more info! Does the engine crank over but not start? Is all electrical dead (no radio, wipers, lights)?
The person with brake noise and overheating brakes: I wouldn't take my lawn mower to the local Midas! That said, make them make it right! They probably used metallic pads (like I did) because they're cheaper. Ceramic might be better (I haven't had a chance to replace mine yet).
Regards,
Dusty
Has anyone else encountered this problem?
Thanks!
Took it to dealer today and was diagnosed as a bad pin connection. Paid $ 100 deductible portion of the bill, started the van and put window down. Guess what? Would not go up again. I drove back into sevice writer area and told him it was not working. Now what could be wrong?
Otherwise the van has been excellent and will soon have 37,000 miles on odometer...but I am glad it has the DaimlerChrysler "Added Care" Extended Warranty that covers almost everything to 7 years 70,000 miles and has the powertrain coverage to 7 years or 100,000 miles.
I had read about DaimlerChrysler power window problems here in Town Hall but can not find the postings. Can anyone help?
Since I am not mechanically literate and could not find how to fix it, I had taken it to the friendly DaimlerChrysler dealership that has provided excellent service.
They replaced the regulator this morning and all expenses were covered under the DaimlerChrysler "Extended Care" Warranty...except the $ 100 Deductible for yesterday. I asked the Cashier what it would have cost and he said warranty paid $ 345 today but would have been $ 445 without the warranty. The cost yesterday would have been $158.60 of which I paid the $100.
Congratulations on your ability to fix things yourself.
I don't dare drive it now - I don't believe it needs new injectors. Any advice from anybody?
Thanks -
Mary Jo Murray
Having the car checked for error codes at the local Auto Zone, etc wouldnt be a bad idea either.
good luck
shakes when its idling and today the fan wont turn off ... eeeeeeeeek what do I do? help :confuse:
Also, some bulbs are dual element bulbs, one element used for turn signal, the other used for driving lights when headlights are on, and/or sahred with the brake lights.
My guess is you may have swapped your bulbs or connectors, or something like that. Since you did not do anything to the passenger side, I would take a look at both sides, and make sure everything is connected identically and the bulb part numbers are the same on your driver side as it is on the passenger side.
I really doubt this is a computer problem.
Regarding your 91 GC, while I've never worked on one (hell, I've never even been in one) I have no idea how the horn is wired. That having been said, a few things come to mind:
1) I would bet lots of money that the horn is fused somewhere. I've seen some cars with two different fuse blocks, one in/under the dash and a second in the engine compartment. Maybe you have two. Yes, no?
2) The fact that you hear a clicking noise when activating the horn leads me to believe that your fuse is probably okay.
3) Do you know for a fact that the horn itself is working? In years gone by (many), I've seen horns that just quit. That said, it would be unlikely that multiple horning devices would quit at the same time, and my guess is that you have at least two.
So, where does that leave us? A short? Hmmm, probably not, otherwise the fuse would probably blow and you wouldn't hear the clicking noise. This is a strange one, strange enough that I'd probably be inclined to ask a good mechanic to look at it.
Then again, someone around here might have more experience with your version of GC and might say, "Oh yeah, that's a common problem. Simply replace the gheezastat and you'll be good to go." Keep us posted. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I bought a new 2005 Grand Caravan in August of last year and it now has 21,000 miles. I took it in for an oil change last week and they said that the bushings where loose so they replaced them. 2 days ago the front end started to knock so I took it back in today and guess what!! The rack & pinion has to be replaced at 21,000 miles.
The van is still under the original warranty but thank god I bought a bumper to bumper extended warranty.
I also have electronic sliding doors on the van and I have had to get the wiring harness replaced already.
No problems so far with the Stow and Go seating...thank-god!!
Thanks for replying
a few days later I noticed the turn sig's didnt work all the time and now the dash cluster cuts in and out and the alarm light comes on..
once in a while it will start and then stall after a few seconds..
Common sence tells be bad ground wire , but I dont have the a clue where to start looking...
anyone else had these problems? any ideas where to start looking for these electrical gremlins? :sick: (the Gremlin was a kick [non-permissible content removed] little car, wish I had one now)
Thanks
Ken
Good Luck,
Ken