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Audi A6

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Comments

  • numuupnumuup Posts: 4
    Thinking of purchasing from a dealer 98 A6 with 56,000 miles, loaded, quattro, for $13,950. How reliable is it and any problems?
    Any input on this model and pricing is appreciated. Thanks
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    From 3 years of reading this board and Audi World, various publications and my own experiences, I would rate the A6's reliability as typical for a high-tech, German luxury car. In the two years and 30+K miles I've had my '01 2.7T, I've had to replace an auxiliary cooling fan, a hazard switch, and shortly, a fan for the climate control. The car has also had issues with transient vibration in certain speed ranges, which has now been corrected, as it was initially after 5K. This has been a problem with some specific cars and seems to have multiple causes. But it looks like my dealer and AoA have gotten much better at finding and correcting them. Knock-on-wood, I am very satisfied with my car, and consider the problems as largely minor.

    If the consumer ratings to which you are alluding are those of Consumer Reports, my car would probably contribute to the Unsatisfactory Rating the magazine would assign if I were to fill out a survey. Last time I checked, CR's methodology had no way of differentiating between minor and major problems or determining how difficult or easy it was to have them corrected.
     
    I've also pondered the CR ratings, and they seem to have more than a dose of subjectivity. I noted that while the charts for the A6 and 5-Series show similar quantifiable percentages of problem areas, the 5-Series is recommended, and the A6 isn't for reliability reasons.

    The A6 has had some problematic model years. '98 was its first year of production, and there seemed to be a disproportionate number of cars from that model year with problems, though many/most were great. For some reason, the first model year for the 2.7T, 2000, was also problematic for that model. Some A6's have obviously been flat-out lemons, with hosts of problems. Most have been good cars. But whether the A6 has had any more lemons as a percentage of its total than other similar cars is doubtful.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,632
    German luxury car. It's all about setting the bar. Happiness = reality - expectations. If you come to the party expecting a vehicle which is completely ridiculous to possess without a warranty (Mark will weigh in at some point), you'll be pleased as punch.

    If, on the other hand, you're planning to get one with 40 - 80K miles and expect it to provide the kind of reliability that the (soul-less) asian vehicles are known for, you may need to consider recalibration of your expectations.

    I actually like Audis, but I rent them (literally). Most of the people on this board who are the most pleased also rent (lease) them and/or make sure they're covered by a warranty that is supported by Audi.
  • asiu28asiu28 Posts: 7
    I bought my Audi A6 3.0 in Sept. 2002. It is a great car except sometimes when I shift into reverse (R) the car starts to shake, like go over reflectors on the road, but the car was not moving at all. I shift back to park (P) and then R again, the shakes stop and back to normal. Happens about once or twice a week. Dealer cannot find any fault. Checked everything. Any suggestions, please advise. Thanks.
  • I love my Audis (all couple dozen of them), wouldn't dream of having one without a warranty. Have only purchased ONE -- lease all the rest.

    Can't remember keeping one past 49,000 miles.

    Don't really know anyone who does not like the car.

    The people that have (soul less) Japanese, etc., cars mentioned often do not like cars that require you to pay attention to them.

    They are not wrong and we aren't either.

    I grind my own coffee beans every single morning, too. Lots of folks use instant coffee -- and we are both happy.

    Audis are very involving to drive and "live with."

    Mine have been far from bullet proof in the reliability area. I found recently that the problems have been "nits" -- overwhelmingly so.

    This is not an excuse -- at this stage of modern manufacturing nits should be very few and very far between.

    The car (Audis, generally) is an absolute joy to drive. 1998 A6 2.8 quattros had far too many nits, IMHO, to consider used -- at least without a very comprehensive warranty product overlaid between your checkbook and the repair bills.

    Audis (and virtually all European cars, for that matter) are breathtakingly expensive to repair and about average cost to maintain (for the breed, that is).
  • m4d_cowm4d_cow Posts: 1,491
    I'm thinking of purchasing a 2003 Audi A6 3.0 quattro. It looks like a very nice car, with one of the best interiors I've ever seen for this class. But I also heard from my friends that Audi got some serious problems with quality. My friends own A4s, so I don't know if A6 has the same problem. If anyone knows about this matter, plz let me know.
  • I am on my 3rd Audi. My current one is a 2002 A6Q 2.7T 6M which replaced my 1990 FWD Audi 90 with 96000 miles, which replaced my 1985 FWD 5000S after an accident (not my fault). I have been driving the A6 for more than a year now and find myself constantly looking for an excuse to drive that car. I live in NYC where public transportation is the usual way of getting around, and go to the Pocono mountains every other weekend for some R&R. I originally planned to get the new A8 when my lease runs out in 2005, but I'm having so much fun with my A6 that I am considering buying the next redesigned model in 2006 (?) instead of or in addition to the new A8, depending on how much money I have then. Never had a major (meaning, un-repairable) problem with the Audis. I used to drive a Toyota, a Nissan, a Volvo,(all stick shifts) and a Dodge (auto). Never had a problem with the foreign cars, either, and always had one with the Dodge. My wife is starting to increase her use of the A6 too because she likes the handling. I hope this helps you in your decision either way. Your experience may not be similar, as mine may not be typical. Good luck.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Robbie, could you be a bit more specific? I'm unclear what you're looking for, other than the experiences and opinions that have already been offered.
  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    The automotive page in today's Boston Globe had a write-up on problems with the 2000 and 2001 A4 and VW Passat. The problem is exclusive to the 1.8T. Apparently the ignition coils are causing trouble - failing while the car is being driven and forcing owners to have their cars towed to service. One tow truck driver was attributed with saying that he tows two or three cars a day with the same trouble. There was some concern that VW and Audi dealers have a fix but are waiting for cars to be brought in with the problem.
  • m4d_cowm4d_cow Posts: 1,491
    The problem I heard most is the ignition coil. And I also heard some complaints on reliability.
    None of my friends have an A6, that's why they don't know much about it.
  • The Edmunds writeup on the new RS6, states "Six cylinders, Four doors, Two intercoolers." I hope this glaring error underneath the article's title is soon corrected. Editor???
  • Can anyone provide me with some thought? I have a 2000 A6 - quattro. I have had a few problems since about 12 months after I bought this car. It has been kinda disappointing to have so many minor interior problems for a vehicle of $35,000 -$40,000 price tag. Anyways, recently I brought my car in to get the fuse for the Drivers side master window switch replaced. After I picked up my car and started driving it again at speeds of 75 - 80 mph I started hearing a whistling noise coming from the front of the car. Its obviously the wind but I cant seem to pin point why and how before I dropped it off with my dealer there was not "whistling" noise but after I picked it up this "whistling" noise started. Could it be coming from the vents? windshield? windshield wipers? Thanks for your help....
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Write to [email protected] with that comment.
  • Hello All

    I am currently in the market for a 2001 or 2002 A6 4.2. I am using the Edmunds price guide to get a feel of what would be a reasonable price.

    Should I expect to pay close to the Edmunds price line? Lower? Higher? Any input is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Akko
  • noshonosho Posts: 119
    if due to repair is probably from the driver's door. The noise might be reflecting off the windshield giving the impression of coming from the front.... Check that the door panel is secure and the door seals aren't damaged. Any other possibility is a wild guess without being able to hear the noise.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    The price guide is a great information and negotiating tool. I think I remember that it is geographically adjusted. This is important as the used market for Audis differs greatly in different parts of the U.S. If it is so adjusted, you should be able to find a deal close to what Edmunds suggests if you negotiate effectively.

    I think Edmunds provides an explanation of how these prices are arrived at. I would study that explanation to be confident in the methodology, and to be prepared to defend the estimates when negotiating.
  •    I recently purchased a 1996 A6 wagon. It drives and rides beautifully, but numerous (expensive) electrical problems have popped up...most have been solved but I seem to find that electrical parts on this car are extraordinarily finnicky. Perhaps readers can help me solve one nuisance. On my former Subaru I drove with the lights on, and when I turned off the key the lights all went off. With this Audi, when I turn off the key the headlights go off...but the parking lights and tail lights remain on. This defeats the entire purpose of the headlights going off, since I then STILL have to turn off the headlight switch manually. Any help?

       One additional area is of great interest to me. Since I may look for another used Audi (it could be an A4, A6, or V8) do you readers have any advice on models or years that are more "trouble free"? I am aware that motors changed in certain years. And in reading about problems with the 2000-2003 years, it appears that plenty of problems still exist even though the cars are newer. I have read a number of Audi sites and it very dificult to decipher enough good comparable information. Any help here? Thanks.
  • I do not know anyone rich enough to afford a used Audi -- new ones cost less by far.

    Although my statement above is not entirely accurate, it is -- in spirit -- dead on. Audis (and they are not alone) are very expense to acquire and maintain "used" -- even if you lease one yourself and then in effect, buy it for yourself.

    Audi maintenance costs can be breathtaking and repair costs are some times bankrupting. An extended or aftermarket warranty is something that should be considered.

    It is so much "cheaper" to consider a brand new Audi than almost any used one -- if you have that much money, please make a donation to one of my favorite charities and lease a new one. You'll spend the same amount either way.

    And, I say this as a big fan of -- not basher of -- Audis.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    For specific questions on C4 platform (Pre-'98) A6's I suggest you visit the appropriate AW forum -

    http://www.audiworld.com/forum/

    I generally agree with Mark's comments regarding the cost of a new lease vs. out-of-warranty ownership costs, though I've never done an exhaustive study. Certainly, dealer maintenance on an out-of-warranty Audi can be prohibitive. I haven't investigated independent mechanics and non-OEM parts, and whether this route could significantly reduce on-going maintenance cost. I have read posts on AW from people who work on their cars themselves with some success. Perhaps Gene has this level of interest and skill, if so, it could be a very different situation.

    As to models and years, in the A6 family, typically newer is better. Post '01 cars seem to have comparatively few problems. 2000 was an earlier model year where average reliability improved, except for the then new 2.7T. Don't know a lot about A4's. A8's are supposed to be very reliable, and depreciate a great deal. If this is a consideration, you might explore the cost of one used.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,632
    "If you can't afford to buy one new and/or pick up an extended warranty. . .go elsewhere."

    This board refers to where you'll most likely end up as the land of "soul-less" vehicles. Others have different names for them.

    Anyway, you heard it first from those who know best.
  • I have purchased -- yes purchased -- a used Audi. Also purchased a used BMW.

    In 1988 purchased an 87 5000 CS turbo quattro -- it had 20K miles and it came with "brand new" tires, rotors, brake pads and was "perfect." It had 30K of original factory warranty left. I kept it until, 49,999. I loved this car -- it had lots of stuff get replaced under the warranty. Except for the power seats, I think every power do dad on the thing needed replacement. I never had any engine or trans problems.

    We bought a used BMW 325ix in 1988 -- it was a 1988 model with 11K miles on it. The owner didn't like the BMW AWD interpretation apparently. This was the single most expensive car to maintain I have ever had -- $100 oil changes and no "Audi advantage" or whatever to cover the "normal" maint costs. When the battery died -- we sold the car -- this was at 36k miles -- we took a $5k bath we were so frieghtened of the costs of maint on the thing.

    Soul-less NOPE, none of them have been. Fun to drive, YEP, all of them. Reliability -- well that's all over the board. Having a couple of dozen of Audis, I can tell you they are fantastic cars -- and for many (even with free maint) they require too much TLC.

    A used A8 -- young in milage with Audi Advantage left on it -- would probably be a major bargain, as they plummet in value. To be "fair" so do 7 series Bimmers.

    Now some on this board, and accurately so, needle the rest of us about our willingness to put up with German (or better said European car) reliability.

    To each his own.

    I love the drive -- I certainly would prefer the joy of fill it with gas, and forget it (don't think I think otherwise) -- and that (the love) is why I keep coming back.

    Blasphemy this weekend -- my wife says to me "VW's keep getting better, maybe we should consider one of them next time -- if the dealer experience would be as good as the Audi dealer experience."

    Then this issue too will certainly raise the ire of some who decry Audi and VW dealerships (they claim they are very poor, almost American car bad, according to some).

    ALL CARS, no matter from whence they come -- are expensive (in every sense of the word). They can be appliances or they can be entertainment -- most of us want the reliability of a "Maytag" and the fun factor perhaps in equal doses.

    One school of thought says buy an Accord and love its reliability for a couple hundred thousand miles and then throw it away.

    That isn't my school of thought.

    Heck, the economy may make me go back to school -- if things don't improve soon. Maybe then, I'll be over on the Honda or Toyota board touting reliability and functionality. In the mean time, I'll wish for those traits while I enjoy the fun part of Audis.

    Here's hoping for the best of both worlds, soon!
  • I just purchased an off lease '99 A6 automatic that was meticulously cared for. It has 50000 miles on it. Prior to my purchase it had a valve gasket job done. My problem is this....when the car is started after a long layover...first thing in the morning or after it sits at my office all day....when put in drive it revs to 4000-5000 on the tach. before dropping into 2nd gear. After this initial start it is fine. If left for only minutes to a few hours it starts fine. Any thoughts????
  • I saw a '97 Audi A8 w/ 73,000 miles "on sale" in a dealer's lot the other day for $19,995! I'm sure that even in '97 that Audi must have stickered for around $60,000+!
  • In 97 An A8 -- like the one I had was just shy of $70K, the price dropped in subsequent years.

    Get an extended warranty and/or maint package if possible. This thing is really pricey to maintain.
  • Now I see why you lease instead of buy Audis every 3 years! $40~$50,000 of depreciation over a little more than 5 years is simply amazing!
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    The A6 is designed so that when it is completely cold, it will hold 2nd gear for 5 or 10 seconds until the exhaust is hot enough to "light-up" the converters. It may be that if you drive off at even moderate speed, the engine will momentarily rev high, but you're in 2nd, not first gear. Without 80% throttle application, the tranny shifts out of 1st almost instantly. If this isn't what's happening, I'd vote for a sensor problem, but have no idea which one.
  • When I got my A8 in 1996, it was practically the first one in Cincinnati -- and although the sticker was high, the financing was based on a money factor equivalent to .9% interest, the car was heavily discounted and my payments for a 36 month lease were about $1K with no money down.

    I did not keep the car full term, but except for the fact that it had a 5spd non-tip transmission, went through tires every 18K miles and had many -- 100% covered things go wrong, it was great. I put the S8 suspension and bigger tires on it -- the thing was way comfortable and for its size handled very well.

    Depreciation -- like falling off of a cliff.

    Rent what depreciates, buy what appreciates, that's my motto.

    Any built in 97 A8's would probably be quite inexpensive and if they were "clean" would be very nice cars indeed -- do remember the aftermarket warranty however!
  • Considering that the latest A8 is probably going for almost the same sticker that your '97 went for-would you speculate that the rate of depreciation is going to be the same? Would you venture that someone could pick up a clean '03 A8 w/73,000 miles in the year 2008 for about $20,000 even allowing that the newest car is vastly superior in features and performance compared to your '97?
  • Depreciation is a many splendored thing -- who knows if the NEW and improved A8 will plummet in % of MSRP retention.

    Most of the big buck cars like this do depreciate quickly. And if you are looking for one that is a good thing (looking for a USED one, i.e.)

    All that this information does for me, however, is to make me believe even more that buying a brand new A8 or 7 series or S class or whatever is for those who "love" rapid depreciation. For myself, if I ever go down the A8 path again, I will, as I always do -- keep on leasing (even though the residual does "get you" -- one way or another.)
  • I assume that most of you have received your belated "ignition coil" letter from Audi. It is ironic that it is dated 1/31/2003, and comes on the heels of the New York Times article.

    While I have, in the past, been pleased with my dealer's responsiveness to problems, I sense increasing resistance from Audi to acknowledge warranty difficulties.
  • I had a funny experience the other day. I stopped to help someone jump start their car. I have had my A6 since August 2002 and other than the day I bought it I have never looked under the hood (5K miles). So, I popped the hood to connect to my ... where the heck is the battery? We looked in all the obvious places (right and left side). Finally went to the manual. About that time the other car owner found my missing battery, in the middle up by the windshield under a nice little cover. SO if you go looking, that is where it is.
  • My dealer told me that using an Audi to jump or to be jumped may be hazardous to your Audi's computer.

    The fact that you may long to be a "good guy" notwithstanding -- the risks of harming your car's computer (which would not be covered if you jumped) outweighs your desire to help a stranded motorist.

    Call AAA for them -- but jump or be jumped at your own (computer's, expensive compueter's) risk.
  • Thanks for the tip about battery jumping, I jumped my neighbor the other day w/ the A6 and I won't be engaging in that activity again....
  • Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa...I confess...I am not wealthy enough to own a used Audi... nor am I an engineer or a German mechanic. However, last month I did refinance my house and took out a home equity loan...so I might be able to keep the car (1996 A6 wagon) for another year if I don't add new windshield wipers. I accept the full chastisement I received after my post of February 2 (#3573). However, I am still curious about a solution to my headlight concern (when the key is shut off, the headlights and radio go off...but the parking lights remain on). Am I missing some hidden switch? Is it possible to re-wire the light switch so that the parking lights also go off? I humbly thank any readers who will offer sustenance.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    Volkswagen/Audi in Massive Recall

    More than 850,000 Volkswagen and Audi vehicles --
    about 530,000 sedans and hatchbacks sold in the
    U.S. alone -- are being recalled for a faulty
    ignition coil. Volkswagen announced the recall last
    week, noting that the problem could cause spark
    plug failure and rough running, which is usually
    indicated by the vehicle's "Check Engine" light.
    Most of the cars affected carry the VW corporate
    1.8-liter turbo four (which includes the Audi A4
    and TT coupe; the VW Golf, GTI, Jetta, New Beetle
    and Passat), the 2.8-liter VR6 and the 3.0-liter
    V6 engines, as well as the VW Passat's W8.
  • I know of no hidden switch. If the headlights are on in this model and the key is turned off, only the headlights go off -- the parking lights stay on.

    Now, having said that, it is at least possible that something could be done to make what you want to happen happen. But, unless you are willing to shell out a few bucks for someone who knows what they are doing and will fix it if they screw something up, well I guess you'll have to live with this "feature."

    My "head service tech" has a 1985 (or '86) 4000CS quattro (5cyl engine, manual tranny, etc.) approaching, he said, 200,000 miles. If I had the courage to try this, well perhaps then I could afford a used Audi. With the way things seem to go with respect to repair costs, however, I am certain I would lose much sleep wondering if and when there would be a multi-thousand dollar repair bill coming.

    Perhaps we should have a contest -- unofficial of course -- to see who has the highest milage Audi and what costs have been incurred to achieve such miles on the od.

    My service guy says -- fluid changes, fluid changes, fluid changes -- and timing belt every 60,000 miles (no matter what).

    OK, I've now got 6000 miles on my 03 allroad.

    My wife has 3500 miles on her 03 TT.

    Hardly a record, but it is a start!
  • I recently purchased a 2003 A6 3.0 quattro sedan, and I love the car. I traded in my 2000 BMW 323CI because of the several problems I had with it. I was nervous about getting into another German vehicle, but I love the way German cars look and drive. Now I see that Audi has recalled many cars for faulty ignition coil. Should I be worried and go ahead bring it in to be checked, or should I wait for something to go wrong before I bring it in? I've had my car for two weeks, and I haven't received any information about a recall. I talked to my Audi dealership and was told that there were only problems with early 2003 models, but my car was OK. I don't know who to listen to, the dealership or the posts on Edmunds? Can someone help?

    Thank you, and drive safely.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    I wouldn't worry too much. Evidently, a particular VW/Audi supplier of ignition coils used plastic insulation that can become brittle with too much heat and fail. I suspect that as is normally the case with such things, the majority of such ignition coils won't fail, but that the percentage that might fail threatens too much liability not to issue a recall.

    It's possible that VW/Audi may have changed suppliers during a model run, or the supplier may have upgraded the part. The dealer should know this, but if you're skeptical, I'd call AoA determine if a portion of the model run is unaffected, and assure your car falls within that portion.

    My wife's '01 A4 1.8T is also affected by the recall, but as of now, she's got close to 50K on it without that issue. (Knock-on-wood.)
  • Hmm .. OH well, so much for being the nice guy. Thanks for the advice. As for the Audi and miles and Costs .... 5200 miles - costs? $0.00 It is way way fun! (2002 A6 2.7T)
  • paramparam Posts: 2
    I am in the market for a new audi. I went to my dealer in cincinnati and test drove the 3.0, 2.7 turbo and the 4.2 without the sports suspension. I liked the 4.2 version the best. Can anybody tell me about how much they have paid for a recent 2003 audi a6 4.2? Does the sports suspension make that much of a difference? How much is the audi extended warranty? Is it a bumper to bumper warranty or are there exceptions?

    Param.
  • noshonosho Posts: 119
    The NTSA (www.ntsa.gov) only list an air bag recall for 2003 A6's with 3-spoke sport steering wheels.

    No recalls for 2002 A6's.

    2001 A6's have a windshield wiper arm recall.

    1999/2000/2001 have a fuel tank level sensor recall.

    That's it for recalls folks....
  • paramparam Posts: 2
    Will somebody reply to my above question.

    Param
  • OK here goes: I have owned (leased) both a 2000 A6 4.2 with "standard" suspension and a 2001 with "sport" package (which includes sport suspension).

    The 2000 had the optional wheels and tires (which are the same as the sport suspension's).

    If there is an 18" wheel tire offering, I would probably avoid it -- I'll get to that in a minute.

    The A6 4.2 with a sport package is different in many subtle ways from the one without it.

    There is a "hunker" factor in the sport equipped version that is missing in the non sport equipped version. If you do get the standard version, at least get the upsized upperformance wheel+tire option (but stick to the 255 x 40 x 17" version).

    The A6 4.2 w/sport is higher performance in the way that it handles when compared with the non
    sport version.

    When compared, the A6 4.2 with sport package will exhibit:

    Less body roll (the body stays flatter in the sport version when taking curves aggressively).

    Less "jounce" -- the motions, even when more violent (on a washboard surface or rippled alsphalt surface) surfaces are encountered are controlled much more easily -- in the sport version.
    Less gap -- although slight, the sport version is lower than the non sport. This means that the look of the sport version is "lower" -- because it actually is.

    Less floaty. Although hardly a slouch, the non sport A6 4.2, even with its aluminum front bits is heavy and can feel a tiny bit floaty-- the sport package serves to quiet this down without unpleasant firmness.

    Now, why not to get the 18" wheels/tires, if avail: ride quality. Look carefully at the 17" wheel/tire option. 255 mm wide on a 17" wheel with an aspect ratio of 40 -- and z rated maximum performance tires (i.e., they are very stiff, the sidewalls are very stiff, etc.) Most of the plus one sizes I have seen keep the width at 255 raise the wheel size to 18 and lower the aspect ratio further to 35. Stiffer yet -- which is not bad for handling, but really becomes (or can become) bone jarring on pothole ridden city streets.

    Unless you really need the extra extra stiffness of the 18" wheels and tires -- I submit you will love the "standard" sport package version of the A6 4.2 much more than the non sport version -- and more than the upsized sport version, too. If you really want all that extra performance, why not go all the way to the S6 (avant only, unfortunately)? The A6 4.2 w/sport is really an S6 lite, IMHO. The next thing would be to actually go to the S6, that is.

    If you are at Northland, ask the sales rep if you can drive my old (2001) A6 4.2 which is still on the lot -- it has the sport package and at 37K miles might even give you an idea of how well the sport package versions hold up here in Cincinnati.

    And with respect to the payments: how many months? I would go with a 36 month lease and no money down -- this is the best month, typically to get a cap cost reduction and the money factor (aka interest rates) are at virtually all time lows even for German cars.

    Use the Audi of America configurator and payment estimator -- then figure in a discount of some sort and write down the numbers. YOu should come up with a maximum number and you can calculate a number up to what ever reasonable discount off list you care to play with. This time of year, this market -- try 2.5% - to 10% off MSRP of your A6 4.2 and see what the effect is on the calculator on www.audiusa.com.

    The "best deal" will be from Audi financial, the best cap cost will probably be here in February or March and there are two dealers here in Cincinnati -- they are certainly competitive with each other. I use Northland Audi but have nothing against Beechmont Audi -- I live close to Northland and have purchased over two dozen Audis from them -- they are great. I have nothing negagtive to say, however, about Beechmont.
  • No money out of pocket, 36 months, lease -- "best guess" $800 month assuming Premium, cold weather, parktronic, sport pkg, any paint and leather. MSRP $54,110 -- acquisition cost $50,000.

    Every day there is a [different] deal -- depends on many variables money factor, Audi loyalty, Tuesday in a month beginning with the letter "R," etc. -- but with no money out of pocket for 36 months and 15,000 miles per year -- this looks "about right." But it could be $50 a month higher or lower or possibly more. I'd set my mind at a high number of $800 assuming I've guessed correctly on the options you may want. . .
  • We have a 2002 A6 3.0q with 25k miles and have not noticed any problems, but did get the Audi letter. I don't have it in front of me but I think instead of a "recall" as such, it was describing the problem and letting people know they would fix if they had the problem. Maybe that's why it's not on the list of recalls.
  • I think you can do better than $800/mo. I custom ordered an 01' 4.2 with an MSRP of $54k and, with $1k down and an $800 loyalty discount, payments are under $700 (just over w/ MA tax). I didn't even negotiate the best deal possible (Invoice + $2600), but got favorable money factors from Audi Financial and some creative number crunching from the dealer (knowing the cap cost, money factor, and residual, I still can't re-calculate their lease numbers - always comes to $25-$40 more than my actual payment - not that I'm complaining). I think you should get a much better discount off MSRP than I did based on the economy, etc. Good luck.
  • What is the term of the (your) lease, Chuck? And my very rough calculations came up with a swag factor that would put the payment with $0 down for 36 months as low as $750. Again that was a SWAG.

    This was a rough calculation -- man if you can get a $54K MSRP 2003 A6 4.2 for UNDER $700, I'd go with it in a heartbeat.

    Here in Ohio, as of NOW, lease payments are NET -- that is, if the lease payment coupon says $750 that's it (of course this means the taxes are "paid up front.") All my previous Ohio leases had a tax line item -- I think it costs more the "new way."

    Anyway, my suggestion -- and that is all that it is -- is put nothing down, lease for 15K miles/yr for 36 months and use $800/mo as the ceiling price.

    Every day there is a deal -- and right now ALL car dealers are likely to be in more of a "deal" mode (or there are deals they can pass along to you from the mfg or the financing arm).

    Get this, I talked with my dealer just yesterday and he said, used car sales have all but stopped since new Audis (on a lease or finance-to-buy) cost less than used ones.

    He said if he had a used 2001 A4, for example, that when compared to a new 2003 A4 -- BASED ON A LEASE CONTRACT -- that the 2003 would be equal to or less than the monthly number of the 2001.

    Guess which ones people are flocking to?

    Used car inventories here in River City are piling up -- indeed, it is even less money (today) to lease a new Porche than a used one.
  • Sorry for not providing the details regarding my lease. Ok, here it goes...
    MSRP: $53,845
    Final Neg Cap Cost: $48,068
    Residual: 54%
    Money Factor: .00169 (or 4.1%)
    Term: 39 months (this may be the difference)
    Lux Tax @ at signing: $500 (no longer applicable)
    Total Pmt w/ Sales Tax: $719
    Miles: 39k (Avg 1k/month or 12k/year)

    I think the 39 month term, mileage limit, and the cap cost reduction are the main diffs here. The actual negotiated sales price of the car was invoice ($48,007) plus $2,600, which brought it to $50,607. This was then brought to the above figure when factoring in loyalty discount and the cap reduction I contributed. Not the best deal considering that most of the deals I've seen are more like $500-$1500 over invoice, but I custom ordered the exact car I wanted and was treated fairly by the dealer (still am for service). Of course, this was two years ago and things were a little different.

    Speaking of used cars, my previous Audi was a '98 A4 2.8Q with every option. At the conclusion of the lease, the thing had about 24k miles and was in mint condition, but the dealer wouldn't touch it on a trade. He said there was no way they could come close to the residual, let alone put a few bucks in my pocket.
  • My only "argument" with you is that I would urge you to not further reduce the Cap Cost by inputting your own money. Other than a lower payment, it really is a false "economy."

    But, to each his / her own. You have a great car spec'd out!

    And it does have the sport package correct?
  • I agree with you on the cap cost reduction issue, but I put a $2k deposit on the car when I ordered it (6 month wait) and just applied it to the registration, plate fees, etc. As I recall, the remainder, coupled with the Audi loyalty discount, was just used as a cap cost reduction. It was only about $1500-$1800, which I probably would have given away in the stock market anyway (as you recall, it really sh*t the bed in mid-late 2001).

    Believe it or not, I opted against the sports package, but I did order the package's rims & tires. Since the car was going to spend a lot of time bouncing over the bone-jarring Boston area roads, I wanted a "softer" ride (no flames please). It has everything else except nav & parktronic (wish that was offered separately back then - since when does parallel parking have anything to do with directions from point a to point b?).
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