Oldsmobile Alero

wedgeantilles · March 2005

I bought an additional keyless entry remote for my 2003 Olds Alero and can't find the instructions for programming it -- I also would rather not give the dealer any more money, especially when they'll probably just sit in the car and perform a couple of simple steps. I've programmed remotes for other cars before but haven't been able to find the right sequence of steps for this one. Any help would be appreciated!

mlm4 · March 2005

The dealer needs to program a new remote. It requires a scan tool. There are probably only a few steps but you need the scan tool. You should bring all the remotes together to make sure they all get programmed in, even if the others already work (they might delete them in the process of adding a new one). I think you can only have up to four remotes programmed at a time.

ijennings1 · March 2005

My wife's Alero 3.4 is a 2002 model, and has covered 43,000 miles.
I've noticed a leak from under the engine bay. It is too thin and clean for engine oil, so must be power steering or auto-box fluid. Unfortunatly, the latter has no measuring tool. I've looked underneath, and the leak appears to be coming from up above the starter solenoid area, but it is impossible to be sure as the leak travels with the wind etc as we drive along. Does anybody know where i should look to check for leaks from the power steering system and auto box?
The leak is not significant, but I'm worried damage might be done if the levels fall too low. The power steering dip-stick showed a small drop of oil missing, but nothing too significant.
Are these engines renowned from auto-box and power sterring leaks?
Thanks for any help here.
Ian

mikey00 · March 2005

You are sure that it is some type of oil and not orange coolant, right? The only reason I ask that is the 3.4 is known for intake manifold gasket failure which causes a coolant leak. I have never heard of any problems at all with the auto box. There have been a few power steering problems but not many. I would check the pump area and follow the hoses.

ijennings1 · March 2005

Thanks for the reply. No, it isn't coolant. I'll try and follow the hoses as you suggest. Bit of a devil to get to though as you know.
Talking of coolant. I have a sludge problem. I thought it was the Dexion. I flushed it and put in another brand. After about 3 months, the sludge comes back. It's not excessive, but leaves a heavy film around the expansion tank. Do you think I might have this intake manifold gasket failure? I'm not losing coolant or engine oil by the way.
Thanks.

mikey00 · March 2005

You almost definetly have the intake manifold problem. It fails in a few different ways. One of them being oil leaking into the coolant. A cooling system pressure check will verify this. Dexcool has received a bad rap over the years, but I think the main problem was the design of some GM cooling systems and location of expansion tank. The Alero seems ok with Dexcool. I ran the original factory fill for 4 years. Then did a flush and fill with Dexcool again.

otter123 · March 2005

I am thinking of buying a 2001 Alero but am concerned about the intake gasket and coolant leaks problems I read about on this thread. Do these apply to the 4-cylinder as well as the 6-cylinder engine?

I also am concerned about the winter driving capabilities, sounds like the stock tires are bad, and Michelins are needed. Any other comments on this issue? Why is the traction control not on all the time? It sounds like you have to says oops, looks slippery, better use traction control.

Sorry if I sound stupid, comments welcome on above topics, and on resale value.

mikey00 · March 2005

The coolant leak which is due to a defective intake manifold gasket only pertains to the 6 cylinder. There is a re-designed gasket available. I am currently working with GM as to how much of the repair they are going to cover. The Alero is actually pretty good in snow. I have all season Michelin tires. The traction control is on all the time. There is a button to turn it off if you want. I never had a need to turn it off in the 5 years I have owned the car. I think the Alero would make a great used car. If you get a 01 4 cylinder it will be a quad 4. In 03 they switched to the ecotech 4, a better engine, currently used by Saturn, new Chevy Cobalt, plus others. Not that the Quad is a bad engine, and I would still take it if the deal was right.

rdeschene · March 2005

I'm not sure that all the stock tires are necessarily "bad"; our 2000 Alero came with BF Goodrich Touring T/A SR4s (the complaints I've read here seem to involve the Goodyear RS-As, which we don't have), and they're actually quite good in slippery conditions, especially in combination with the traction control. It's just that living in Canada, we feel it's best to err on the side of caution and use snow tires in the winter. So in the winter, we switch our SR4s with Michelin Arctic Alpins, and they give us excellent traction in snow. But in the spring, we go back to the SR4s. In fact, I'm taking the car in today for its spring maintenance and putting the all-season tires back on.

Our traction control is always on, though there is a switch you can use to turn it off (not sure why people would, but it is an option). I think what folks are saying is that there is a slight delay between wheel slippage and the traction control activating. But it's not a matter of deciding to use the traction control or not, because probably most of us keep it on all the time. My husband and I do, anyway.

Re: the intake manifold gasket problems others have mentioned, we haven't experienced that yet.

ericinalaska · March 2005

Try using a different key. My wife's car did the same thing and all we did was to use her backup key - no probs since.

ericinalaska · March 2005

My wife's 2001 Alero has a loud noise from the front end when turning left. Going straight ahead and to the right is quiet. It starts at about 20mph and is loudest at about 40mph. I thought it was probably the left wheel bearing, so I replaced the bearing assembly ($110 for the assembly, $15 for the axle socket, $30 for renting the hub puller), but the noise is still there! I can feel it through the pedals as well as the steering wheel.
A buddy seems to think that the power steering fluid smells burnt, and that there are metal shavings in the fluid.
The breaks are fine.
Any ideas? Need some help here!

otter123 · March 2005

Thanks a million for the info on the leak, mikey00. Much Appreciated, have a great day!

ctalerico · March 2005

If I were you I would be more concerned with the rotors/brakepads on the Alero. I had my 2000 Alero for only a year and a half because the rotors kept wearing down and I kept having to replace them. On top of that the tierod went as well. If you go back a ways on this board you will see all of the rotor problems noted.

mikey00 · March 2005

I wouldn't worry to much about the old brake/pad rotor issue. The 2000 Alero did originally have a problem with this and chances are any used 2000 you look at had the original brakes replaced. My 2000 now has 56k on it and all original brake problems are gone. I still have the original pads and rotors on the rear without any problems. The fronts were replaced with Raybestos pads and rotors and all problems are gone. I was suprised the pads even have a lifetime warranty. So if I manage to wear them down I only pay for labor to change the pads.

sherwood · March 2005

I solved the winter performance problem with a set of 195/65 Nokian WR tires, I put these on steel rims w/ stock hubcaps from an older base Alero from a junk yard. This will also keep the aluminum wheels from being eaten by the salt in Michigan. The 195/65 15 are the same diameter as the 215/60 15 but more appropriate width to the weight of the car for snow. The WR is rated as a true winter snow / ice tire but claims much better tire life than others including their own traditional ones. They are hard to find, but you can go to there website and do a dealer locator.

Looks like the brake problem is not solved yet, my 2003 needs new inner pads at only about 26,000. The outer pads are still well short of the wear indicator, however, so the first indication was the grinding sound. Has anyone had luck getting the dealers to cover the first set under warranty since this is so premature? I have had over a half dozen GM vehicles over 15 years, and have never had one go less than 50k, some 70, even minivans towing boats. They used to use low quality brakes on base cheap vehicles, but you'd do better if you went up a trim line -- apparently I didn't go up far enough...or maybe you can't go up far enough in an Alero

Anyone recommend a specific brand of aftermarket metallic pads that improves the life? I see Raybestos in previous post.

mikey00 · April 2005

My front pads were shot at around 30K. I was expecting more like 40K+, which is what my previous GM vehicles got. I don't think you will have any luck with the dealer picking up the cost. While 26K is not great, it's in an acceptable range for an item that wears according the a drivers habits. The shop that did mine used Raybestos QuietStop pads. I didn't request these. It just happen to be the pads they use. As I mentioned above the shop warranties the pads for life for the original owner. If you think your pads may go in another 26K, you may want to find a shop with that kind of warranty. I used Vespias Tire in NJ. I think MIdas offers the same deal with whatever type of pads they use.

alerofan · April 2005

I recently bought a 2003 Alero, 4 cylinder, with 100,000 miles .
All service records were provided, and all service work was perfomed at the dealership.
However, the 100,000 mile work has not been performed.
What servicing is recommended?
Are there any special Tranny Fluids or Coolants for this car?
Does aluminum require specai antifreeze?
Any feedback, good or bad on the 4 cylinder engine or the Tranny?
Thanks

mikey00 · April 2005

Congratulations on your purchase. It sounds like a good car from your description and I am sure you got it for a good price as there are a lot of Alero bashers out there (consumer reports and others). I have a 2000 6 cyl with 55K on it, which I have been very happy with. I am looking for something similar to yours for my son. They changed from a quad4 to an ecotech4 in 03, which is good. You have the same engine as Saturn and the new Chevy Cobalt among many others.
The only additional service required at 100k other than the normal things is a spark plug change. Coolant is Dex-Cool which is good for 150k or 5 years. If it has not been changed yet, you may want to get this a little early at 100k just to be safe. I would stick with Dex-Cool. It is a good long life coolant. Trans fluid is lifetime, unless you tow or live on the surface of the sun. It doesn't even require checking unless there is a leak.

yurakm · April 2005

As well as I remember, the transmission fluid used to be good for 50,000 miles in hilly or mountain terrains. The same with stop and go city traffic. Most of the East coast states are hilly. West coast - mountain terrains. Rocky Mountains states - definitely mountain terrains. And many people, probably most of people, either live in cities, or are commuting to cities/close suburbs.

Personally, I live in suburb of a small city, population of 120,000. Drive only 7.5 miles to work, one way. The path is mostly flat, except one 300 ft. hill. However, there is a lot of turns and the roads are rather twisty. 24 traffic lights in one direction, 27 lights back, not to mention a couple of stop signs. I guess, the constant acceleration and deceleration is hard on transmission.

The fluid is probably good for life in flat rural place with moderate climate. A farm in Iowa, Indiana...

mikey00 · April 2005

I'll let you know in 5 years or so. I have no plans of changing mine.

hess7 · April 2005

In two weeks a local auto auction house is going to auction off approx. 300 vehicles owned by the federal gov.. There are approx. 100 olds aleros, all 2002 models with mileage between 30 and 60k. All are 4 cyl.. They come with the remaining warrent of 5yrs or 60,000miles. I am thinking of buying one for myself. I understand that they sell for a little over wholesale price. Is there any thing I should look for to help me make a decision as I will be able to start the vehicles and look the day before. Any help would be appr.. Thanks Harry

bethn · April 2005

My daughter broke the gear shift button on her 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. So, we installed a generic replacement. The new gear shift knob works, but for some reason, the ignition switch won't turn all the way to the left. It seems stuck halfway between off and A/C. The key is difficult to remove, but with a little pulling, it comes out. I don't want to twist it and have it break off in the ignition. Other than this problem, what really concerns me is that the battery, oil and parking (P) light on the dashboard remain lit after the car is turned off and the key is removed. I double checked to make sure that the car was in the Park position before turning it off and removing the key.

Any ideas of what I can do to fix this? I'm not sure if this is a major concern or if my daughter's safety is at risk. Thank you for any advice you may have.

expwyman · April 2005

Can anyone outline briefly how to remove the side view mirrors from the Alero? I have the plain black sideview mirrors, and I'm thinking of painting them to match my car color.

alerofan · April 2005

Thanks for the info.: Another question, if you don't mind:
I dont see anything in the manual about a timing belt or timing chain service.
Does this engine have a belt, or a chain? Any info on what the service interval is on this component? Don't want to ping pistons and valves with a stripped belt or chain.
Thanks,
Alerofan

rdeschene · April 2005

This has happened twice to our Alero (seems to be some type of "plastic stress" . . . or maybe just a flawed design). The first time was while it was still under warranty, so we took it in to the local local GM Goodwrench service centre and had it replaced at no charge to us. The second time, we went ahead and took it in again, because it's a pretty inexpensive repair (less than $50 Canadian). I don't know how to solve the problems you've had since replacing the button on your own, or how serious they are. It may be that you want to avoid the cost of a service call, but if you're really concerned, I would take it in.

442455 · April 2005

I had my 2001 Alero checked because of a "clunking" sound coming from the left front of the vehicle when I was backing up and had the wheel turned to the left. They said it was the strut bearings that were bad, and had to be replaced. Since the car has 88000 miles they also suggested replacing the struts at the same time. I was given an estimate of $540.00 for after market struts made by Monroe. I do alot of my own repairs and started checking for replacement struts. Not too many aftermarket brand names, and none of them specify the FE3 Sport Suspension which my car has, they are just selling generic fit struts. I checked an Oldsmobile dealer, and for the FE3 struts and bearing, plus the strut boot and mounting plate, the price was over $500.00 PER SIDE. Has anyone replaced their FE3 struts with an after-market product and been satisfied with the ride and handling? Any information would be helpful. Thanks.

mikey00 · April 2005

I can't speak specifically about your Alero sport suspension, but I can comment about a similiar situation I have with a Lexus product with a limited sport suspension. The aftermarket struts are only for the stock suspension. They are not going to make a product for a very limited number of cars. They will work but will take your ride and handling back to thye stock suspension. For me to keep my sport suspension, I have to buy the struts from the dealer at a much higher cost

442455 · April 2005

That's what I thought when I started checking around with the after-market brands. I wouldn't mind so much putting OEM priced parts on a Lexus or other vehicle with excellent value, but if I do the OEM parts myself, saving the labor costs, I am about to put 25%-35% of my cars value into the front suspension. I could understand if the parts were something completely different such as electronic controlled or air assisted, but they are just regular struts valved differently. I have to decide if it's worth it to me to have the sport type ride or not. I am checking some web sites that sell OEM parts and may be able to save substantially. For example, the dealers want over $11.00 for the nut which bolts onto the top of the strut and I found a site selling the same AC Delco part for a little over $3.00! The dealer mark up is very evident.

ceripkenjr · April 2005

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the gas tank on a 2000 olds alero? I'm trying to replace my fuel pump - I'm having NO luck.

rickbro · April 2005

I'm having the same problem. It started today with my daughter out of town. Did you find a resolution. I've had multiple problems with this car.

mikey00 · April 2005

It's a chain and does not require replacement.

rdeschene · April 2005

Question: Are you having the same problems with the ignition switch that bethn described (which occurred after they replaced the broken gear shift button), or do you mean that the gear shift button has broken off? If it's the latter, it's happened to us twice, and both times we took it in to the local local GM Goodwrench service centre to have the gear shift assembly replaced. If it's the former re: the ignition switch, I can't address that since it's never happened to us.

isseyvoo · April 2005

Is in an auto or manual tranny? I have the 5 sp., and the ignition (by design) won't turn all the way to the off position and won't release the key unless the transmission is in reverse.

rickbro · April 2005

This has an automatic transmission. My daughter carried it to hte dealer. He said he thought it was a cable from the ignition switch. She could not leave it so she has had to leave the key in it and hope it starts the next day. I will have it back home today to look at the problem closer. Just can't believe how much trouble I've had with this car. Thought about selling it or trading but dealers will not give you anything for one of these cars. Any help appreciated.

spucket1 · April 2005

Hey-
I was having the same issue with my Alero. After several issues of having my battery die I realized that if you put the car in park and press the gear shift button (I'm assuming its an automatic down) in and move it around a bit the key should then return all the way back to off... Hope this is clear enough---

jtrujillo86 · May 2005

(Note to everyone: I've posted this elsewhere, so I'm sorry for those of you have to read it twice.)

Today when I was leaving the University Library, I noticed that my red 'SECURITY' light was on after I started my car. I know that this is related to the ignition switch and the Passlock II system, but I was wondering how long you guys thought that I would have before I needed to replace the ignition. After shutting off my car, I restarted it to see if the light would go out, and it did. Also, I didn't notice the light on before I started my car the first time, which I know can happen as well. So any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. I can't afford to spend $300 on a new ignition since I'm a poor college student

BTW, she is a silver 2002 GL1 V6 four door with just over 48K miles on it.

Thanks,

Jeremy

yurakm · May 2005

1. I would start with cleaning the car key, the Passlock resistor etc. Most probably the problem will go away.

2. Ignition switches do not like much weight. Like when couple of pounds of keys are dangling under the switch. Better if the car key is separate.

ohiodon · May 2005

Hello,

What is the average MPG on both the 6 cylinder and 4 cylinder 02 / 03 models?

Thanks

rdeschene · May 2005

Looks to be around 24 mpg city, 33 mpg highway (that's pretty close to what we've had with our 2000 GLS, though this article rates it at 20 mpg city, 29 mpg highway): 2003 Oldsmobile Alero GX Sedan

jtrujillo86 · June 2005

Last Friday I was in an accident with my car :sick: I rear-ended someone who had a huge trailer hitch on the back of their truck and their tail gate down. Anyway, I trashed the hood, one fender, the front bumper cover, the a/c condenser, the radiator, and the cooling fans. (I promise that I'm more devastated than I sound. I've been talking about it so much I'm just numb now

). I met with the Insurance Adjuster and the estimate was right around $4000 after labor...I really only did $2400 in damage, but the labor is outrageous. They said it will take about 12 days to fix. Wish me luck with that.

As with gas mileage, just before my accident, I was getting 32 miles per gallon pure highway. I am home from school now and my mom just moved, hence I had to move with her. I am now 60 miles round trip away from work, so I've been doing a lot of highway driving. Pure city is pretty crappy at about 22-24 MPG. I am continually surprised by this car's MPG on the highway considering I now have just under 50K miles on my car, it's a V6, and its a pushrod engine. Its about as good as a new Honda Accord V6 on the highway

Jeremy

P.S. The security thing came on again only about 10 minutes before my accident. I still need to get the key cleaned though....

myalero02 · June 2005

I'm a new 2002 alero owner. The security light came on today. I stopped the car and now it won't restart. I do not have a manual. Can anyone help? Is there a switch to shut off the security system or something? I'll try to clean the key but I only have one. Thanks ">

hopkins007 · June 2005

Did you (or anyone else out there) figure this problem out? I'm having the same problem and would like to tackle it myself.

Anyone out there ever removed the driver seat?

jtrujillo86 · June 2005

I haven't figured it out yet, but the car is still not in my posession. The problem is with the ignition lock cylinder. It ususally needs to be replaced. A temporary fix if the light is flashing BEFORE you start the car is to put the key in the ignition and turn it to on and leave it for about 10-15 minutes and then try and start it. This is supposed to reset the Passlock system, though only temporarily.

Congrats on your purchase Myalero02, and I wish you luck with her. By the way, what color, engine, and trim package do you have? I have a 2002 GL1 V6 Sedan with 49K miles and it's silver.

Jeremy

P.S. I got more news on my car today: it won't be done until the 17th of June AT THE EARLIEST :mad: I'm only a little angy...

1989wrangler · June 2005

Hello,
I own a 1999 Alero GX. The problem is the fuel gauge gets stuck at about 3/4 of a tank of gas then when I get to about half a tank it jumps back and forth between full and empty. Can anyone please help me which fixing the problem? thank you

1989wrangler · June 2005

Hi,
I am looking at replacing some of the interior parts, like some of the dash sections or door panel pieces. Does anyone know what website I can find these items. Whenever I search for them I always get directed to aftermarked parts and when I type in OEM parts it does not include interior part. Please Help!
thanks

burdawg · June 2005

Try: http://www.gm-auto-parts.com

rdeschene · June 2005

A few years ago, our 2000 Alero GLS was showing the same erratic fuel gauge readings. We took it to the service centre, and the problem turned out to be the fuel level sensor, which was replaced to the tune of almost $400 Canadian (about $322 U.S.). We were "lucky"; if it had been the entire fuel sending unit that needed replacing, that would've doubled the cost.

It may be possible to fix this as a do-it-yourself repair, but we couldn't manage that at the time due to it being December, and we don't have a heated garage.

jtrujillo86 · June 2005

For OEM parts, also try GMPartsDirect.com. Their prices are cheaper than the stealership's prices...

Jeremy

By the way, I get my baby back on Friday!!!! :shades:

bgreisch · June 2005

I have a 2001 Alero GLS 6 cylinder, and we have been having problems with it hard starting once in a while. Took it in when it was under warrenty they could not replicate the problem. It now has about 80,000 miles on it. Talked to some one else that has a 01 alero and he has the same problem, put he says he will not take it in until it does not start. Also yesterday the blower motor resistor went for the second time, the first time it was under warrenty. Anybody know why it has this problem, or a way to fix it so the resistor does not go again. I was reading past post about the intake manifold gasket going, about when does it go bad on the vehicle. Thanks

wishingalero99 · June 2005

Try going to EBAY to look for the interior parts for your car!

Oldsmobile Alero

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