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The second thing to check is the radiator fan, which is electric and only comes on when needed. Once on a Civic I owned, the fan went out and the symptoms were as you described: while driving with the AC on, the engine temperature went up (especially when driving at slow speed). The AC cutting off may be a preventative measure built into the AC system, to cut it off when the engine temperature reaches a certain point--but that is just a guess.
These kinds of problems might be covered by the factory warranty, if the car has less than 60k miles on it and you are the first or second owner. One thing, though--don't drive it with the temperature in the red zone! It could damage the engine, and might void the warranty.
in a few months time.
I know this is biggie and so is the price tag.
My dealer wants $847 to do it all.
And yet another $125 to change the plugs, wires, and do a minor tune-up.
Thats almost an even grand for the whole ball o wax!!
Ouch!!
This seems a bit steep.
Am I being ripped off here or what??
What did most of you pay for your 60k mile service??
What about independent service by a mechanic familliar with Hyandais??
Any advice appreciated.
(by the way, I solved my abherrant mileage loss by changing both
the fuel and air filters and running a couple bottles of injector
cleaner through during a recent road trip).
GM
Go in to the dealer with the maintenance section of the owners manual. Then look at the dealer's 60,000 service package. Cross off EVERYTHING that is not required by your manual, and have them quote that to you. When I did this at my dealer, my 30k service cost me only $200 instead of the $350 the dealer wanted to charge me for "recommended" services. Recommended my butt; those are just recommended by the dealer to pull extra money out of your wallet.
Actual work required is replacing the timing and drive belts, fuel filter, air filter,
flushing coolant, manual transmission and power steering fluids.
I can change the air & fuel filters myself.
Beyond that the usuall oil change and stuff.
For this they want $847.00???
No break job is included in this.
All they do is clean the brakes.
And they want another $125.00 to replace the plugs and wires??
(I've never gone 60k w/o replacing these in any car - just good pm).
Everything else on this lengthy list amounts to
"inspecting" this, that, or the other item.
Any additional work beyond those inspections is substantially extra.
The dealership is always a rip off.
They told me that I could go to an independent mechanic to get
the work done, have him sign it off as completed, and this will
still keep me under warranty.
That said, I will look around for a good mechanic in my area who is
familliar with Hyandai service.
I have 53k on her now so I have some time to shop around.
I'm sure I can find a better deal on this service than the dealer.
Thanx,
gm1258
It is a 2nd owner....car original nought on auction...clear car fax.....owner just put in new front brakes...oil change
Edmunds avg private price..mid $4000's
any thoughts?
thanks
anything I should be aware of?
I had a 2001 Elantra GLS which is basically the same car, and it was a great car for me, and now my sister. It's 8 years old now and still running great at 60k miles, and if my son hadn't sideswiped it in the driveway it would still look great.
Thanks for your consideration,
Jonathan Wahl
Corporate Communications
Edmunds Inc.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
From experience, speed related vibration is usually caused by a problem with the wheels or tires. Check for: dented/out of round wheels; out of round tires, out of balace tires. Motor mount problems usually shows/manifest at: Idle, shifting gears; acceleration or deceleration. My guess is that you may have a wheel problem.
Last year I had a new set of Michelin tires installed and balanced (on my van) at Costco only to find out that the steering wheel vibrates at 65 mph. I took it to work and balanced the tires myself. Problem fixed. That tells me that the Costco tire balancer is out of calibration.
AFAIK there's a single motor driving both arms.
Thanks
And they shouldn't charge any extra labor to replace the other belts at the same time; just the parts cost alone (maybe $45 or so).
I never said it was. I said the other belts should be labor-free. I've done timing belt replacements several times and have always had the other belts replaced at the same time for nothing more than the parts cost.
Agree on the warranty coverage. That was my main point in posting - you need to provide adequate maintenance as prescribed by Hyundai (not necessarily the dealer) to maintain warranty coverage. Basically RTFM.
Im about to purchase a MINT condition in and out 2005 ELantra GLS in
Beige with only 16700 miles on it!. The final price was $9400.00, plus
NJ sales tax.
This car looks like it just came off the showroom floor.
Is this a good deal??
Assuming it's an automatic sedan (most common type of Elantra) with no other options, KBB for a car with those miles in excellent condition is $9885 retail and $8010 private party. So if you are buying the car from a dealer, the price is pretty good. Not very good if it's from a private party. Used car values are depressed right now, just like new car prices, so there may still be some room to negotiate if this is from a dealer. While shopping for a used car recently (including Elantras), I found many excellent units at well below the KBB value.
N.A.D.A. has equal recognition (or better than KBB). KBB usually, but not always, lists higher prices for the "same car" than NADA does.
Good luck to you.
Just like the car mags emphasize different factors when rating cars, maybe the used car guides weigh things differently.
The CT general statutes provide:
"Sec. 38a-353. (Formerly Sec. 38-175y). Calculation of settlement amount on totalled motor vehicle. Whenever any damaged motor vehicle covered under an automobile insurance policy has been declared to be a constructive total loss by the insurer, the insurer shall, in calculating the value of such vehicle for purposes of determining the settlement amount to be paid to the claimant, use at least the average of the retail values given such vehicle by (1) the National Automobile Dealers Association used car guide and (2) one other automobile industry source which has been approved for such use by the Insurance Commissioner. For purposes of this section, "constructive total loss" means the cost to repair or salvage damaged property, or the cost to both repair and salvage such property, equals or exceeds the total value of the property at the time of loss."
(Good luck keeping warm. We're up to 17* at 12:30 pm. You guys have been getting clobbered
- replaced the front two rotors - worn with grooves - and pads
- replaced the rear drums (worn and rusted + making metallic grinding noise) | shoes + replaced 1 leaking cylinder
- replaced the two front wheel bearings - due to airplane like noise coming from the front around 40 mph or higher (Shimmy problem may have contributed to early demise of the bearings)
- replaced manual trans fluid at 120K at the dealer.
The total repair cost was around $1,000
Other than the engine noise getting louder with the age and the shimmy problem that never goes away completely, the car's okay.. so far.
FYI - I had my timing belt replaced at 90K. at the dealer (did not replace the water pump which is still working great).
Has anyone else had this front-end shimmy problem?
$9400 seems high to me for a 3-year-old Elantra GLS, of the previous generation, given that there were big discounts on these cars when new so a $16k list car probably sold for more like $12-13k new. I think they are nice cars (I owned a 2001 and have a 2004 GT hatch), with one major failing: poor side crash protection. If that doesn't bother you, you might try to get the price down a bit more, and have the car checked by a mechanic (although the fact there is some factory warranty left is a big plus). Be sure to check the tire tread; the Michelin OEM tires are not known for long life--I had to replace the ones on my 2001 Elantra after 30k miles.
I had it since I bought the car in 2001. Road force balance reduces the shimmy for about 2-3 months before it comes back. I put new wheels with hub-center ring and that took care of shimmy problem for about 6-8 months before it came back again, but not as bad. The issue I think is Elantra is very unforgiving about slightest imbalance in the tires. I recently put on Toyo Versado tires and that seems to both lessen the shimmy and the tire/road noise.
One other thing--be sure to take it out on the highway at high speed (up to 70+ if you can). Some Elantras of this vintage have a "wheel shimmy" issue. Sometimes it's easy to correct if it's present (i.e. a proper wheel rebalancing), but some owners have had trouble eliminating the shimmy, so it's better if it's not there in the first place.
Likes
* Great driver's seat, firm but still comfortable even for all-day trips. The dual-knob height adjuster (no longer available on the Elantra) and lumbar adjustment help there, along with a well-placed dead pedal. The steering column doesn't telescope, but with all the seat adjustments I never missed that feature.
* Versatile: 60/40 rear seat folds flat when needed (by flipping the rear seat cushion forward), so it can carry lots of gear and still hold 3-4 people.
* Reliable: No major problems over its first five years. Biggest problem is the P.O.S. Kenwood audio system, which was unique to the 2004 GT (thank goodness!). The CD player stopped working over a year ago. AM reception was never great, but seems to have gotten worse with time. And the myriad of tiny buttons is a nightmare. Fortunately it's a standard size, so I'll pop in an aftermarket unit with an aux input one of these days. (No big rush--my 17-year-old son drives it now and he needs to keep his attention on his driving.) The only parts I needed to replace outside of normal maintenance were two headlamp bulbs (warranty), struts for hatch (started slowing down so I just got them replaced before the warranty ran out), rear brake pads at 40k, latch for driver's sun visor (DW broke it, covered by warranty), clip for cargo cover (DW broke it, covered by warranty), retaining clip for driver's floor mat (broken by car wash attendant, covered by warranty), rear turn signal lamp (about $2), rear license plate lamp (about $2), and a front side marker lamp (about $2). There was also some damage from a run-in my DW had with a curb in a blizzard 3 years ago (curb won), but that wasn't the fault of the car. Did result in new tires, which have 24k on them now and still good tread.
* Good looking: I still like the looks of the GT hatch. There aren't many fastback-style 5-doors any more. It has the versatility of a wagon but doesn't look like a wagon (something my 17-year-old son appreciates). The red paint has held up pretty well, and is still lustrous, although there are faint surface scratches and a few small door dings. Some of the alloy wheels have some nicks also.
* Ride & drive: It's no sports sedan but for an econobox, I think it has a nice blend of ride and handling (sport-tuned suspension and steering). It's pretty quiet cruising on the highway, nimble around town. Except for an occasional squeak from somewhere in the dash in very cold weather, still no rattles or squeaks. The ride isn't as smooth as on the GLS, but not punishing.
Dislikes
* Kenwood head unit (see above). While it has good sound through the six speakers, it hasn't held up well and the controls are an ergonomic mess.
* Steering wheel would be more comfortable if it were a little thicker. The leather cover has held up well though, and feels good.
* Leather interior: It's held up remarkably well, with only one small scuff on the outer bolster on the driver's side. (I think the car's use as an auto show car for Chicago, Minneapolis etc. in early 2004 didn't help there, as several thousand people probably climbed in and out of the driver's seat.) Otherwise it looks new. But I was never a fan of leather (hot in summer, cold in winter) and had I known Hyundai was coming out with a GLS hatch for 2005 with a sport cloth interior, I might have waited for it. Plus there's no seat heaters.
I haven't tracked fuel economy over its lifetime, but I do keep track of it at fill-ups and through the trip computer. I average mid-20s in town and mid-30s on the highway consistently, with peaks just over 40 mpg under ideal conditions (4AT). But I drive conservatively. I notice my son got closer to 20 mpg on short-trip, in-town driving this winter (his first with a license). At 70 mph on long trips the best I've gotten is 34-35 mpg. So it's not as stingy with gas as some small cars, but it almost always beats its adjusted EPA ratings (21/29). Its sweet spot is around 55 mph, where it will do upper-30s mpg easily.
Maintenance costs have been very low, because I've never had to pay for an oil change (long story) and I get free tire rotations/balances from the tire shop. The 30k service was the only major maintenance expense, plus of course the rear brake pad replacement a month ago.
So overall it's been a positive ownership experience, and I'm glad I bought the GT instead of costlier options I was looking at five years ago, e.g. Matrix, Mazda6i hatch, and Malibu Maxx. Another positive is that I've suffered little in depreciation over the past five years. According to Edmunds.com, the car could fetch nearly $7000 in a private-party sale (KBB has it at nearly $8000). Using the lower figure, that's a bit more than $100 a month in depreciation over five years.
Plus I still have 58k miles and five years of powertrain warranty left--enough to get my son almost all the way through college.
And according to the VIN, it has ABS subsequently found the unit under the hood, in addition to the TCS which are nice safety features since my 20 yr. old daughter will be getting it. Brand new Uniroyals and a full year on the inspection. Such a deal
I've noticed a couple of people talking about the wheel shimmy issue, which I have had a various times and various degrees over seven and a half years. I do remember that one person tried everything to eliminate the shimmy and had to resort to new rotors, as a mechanic at some point overtorqued the lug nuts and warped one or both rotors.
We are at more than 95K miles, and the most recent repair was covered mostly under warranty, which included a catalytic converter, exhaust manifold, and a portion of the exhaust, all triggered by a simple "check engine" light for an O2 sensor. The service tech seriously angered me by authorizing spark plugs and wires and insisting that I had authorized those items, so I will not revisit that dealer again. By the time I arrived home, however, I decided not to push the issue further to the top because the car was running SO perfectly, truly like new.
A concern at this point is finding a part number and then ordering a replacement for the slim black trim piece separating the rear door roll-down window from the non-moving piece of glass, as it is very rusted on the driver's side, and starting to rust on the passenger side. Has anyone been able to locate this piece or a separate part number on any parts site?
Cooper tires have been fine after one year. Digital clock refuses to come back to life, even when tapped firmly. Wipers were slowing down quite a bit in the winter. These three items and the trim piece issue are the only concerns I have right now. I love this car, and cannot wait for car-waxing weather!
Re the plugs and wires... had they been replaced before? If not, then it probably wasn't a bad idea to replace them now. Of course, the service tech should have waited for your approval to do it!
My sister still has my 2001 GLS and tells me it's holding up great, just passed 60k a little while ago (she doesn't drive much). Needs a little body and paint work due to a side-swipe from my son a few years ago that I touched up, but it was not a "pro" job at all (although I did use made-to-order paint).
Yes, the plugs and wires had been done, which is why I was ticked off about it. The service writer's attitude was just the icing on the rotting cake, which is a shame because he replaced a very pleasant writer who was let go. Dumb decision.
It's a good thing I am not yet ready to take on a car payment, because as before, I want an Elantra SE, an Elantra Touring, and a Sonata GLS, AND I want to see this car hit the 200K mark. At this point, the decision's been made for me.
any suggestions on if I should get a smaller one? Also what size are stock mufflers on lantras?
please help??????