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Comments
Every feature does only what it's desgned to do, even though marketing departments would like you to believe otherwise, combining them all is the best, but do not confuse one for another.
AWD - 4 wheels driving, so less chance of only two wheels getting stuck in a slippery patch. Prevents getting stuck in snow/mud more than as a safety feature. They decrease the car's efficiency (lower mpg) and add complexity and maintenance costs, consider it only if you are afraid of getting stuck in snow/mud often.
Traction control - computer eases off the gas automatically so driving wheels do not spin when they don't have traction (bad for transmission and tires). Just a cheaper solution to AWD. Again not really a safety feature.
Stability control - computer determines the vehicle dynamics and brakes specific wheels to correct oversteer/understeer or sliding. This is a safety system while driving.
ABS brakes - Prevents brakes from locking up to allow steering while braking hard. Another safety system.
And then you have some of the new features in luxury cars these days, such as automatic braking when the car detects an object approaching fast in front. But they need more time to prove their effectiveness.
Maintenance on the Volvo will be much more expensive than on the Honda.
http://netscape.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/42962/article.- html
Regarding those first year issues, its worth noting that the '03 has about 1/3 the number of TSBs the '98 had.
now I used the tilt yesterday and I swear it opened more when I checked it out back in july. Is it supposed to only open (tilt) about 2 inches?
I'm not so sure about that. Some parts I replaced on my old Accord were outrageously expensive and Honda service (oil changes ect.)is pricey.
As for Volvo, European imports always have more expensive parts than Japanese ones, so I would think Honda would be much cheaper.
Don't get too scared...there is a lot of ranitng going on (myself included).
But bottom line - I have an 03 EX-L with Navi, and if I was going to buy an 04, I'd get the Accord again, hands down. Before Camry, Passat, Maxima, etc.
Cheers, Kenn
I have also noted that the sunroof in the 7th generation car seems smaller than that of the 6th generation. I don't know if it makes much difference as where I sit in the car I don't have that much open roof in front of my head.
$21 oil change (sometimes $16, if I get a coupon from the dealership on time) is not too expensive, IMO.
As for replacement parts, here is all that I have to replace so far in my Accord...
Tires (third set now). The original tires were damn expensive, so I opted for lesser tires.
Car Battery: might need the third soon (purchased at Walmart)
Fob Batteries: Once (purchased at Walmart)
Headlamp: $12
Taillamp: once, don't remember the cost.
Timing Belt Plus Water Pump: $425 (the most expensive replacement so far).
I might need to replace the brake pads soon, but they don't have to come with Honda delaership price tag.
Not bad, eh?
Transmission problems at 40,000 miles. Very disappointed since the key reason I bought a Honda is reliability. Found out the transmission needs to be replaced. Also, found out 4 other people in my office also need to get their 2000-2001 accord transmissions replaced. What gives?
just my 2 cents
In the last 15 years, every car I've traded in has
had carpeting that is immaculate. Car companies are
almost notorious for not designing mats that cover
enough of the carpet.
Presently, I have "Waterhog" mats in my EX V-6 which are made of polypropylene (may have misspelled that) that is a synthetic. The mats
have a lip around the outside edge to contain debris and water (great for winter months). They
are oversize so they "sweep" up the edges of the
footwells as well. Also they can be CUT to size if
needed. When they get dirty, and they all do, spray
with some all purpose cleaner, add a few strokes
with a nylon scrub brush and hose them off. Leave
them hang to dry and they look brand new.
berbel
The good news is that Honda replaced my front rotors. The dealer told me that Honda gives the options to either resurface or replace them and they replaced them. The service advisor told me that I deserved it because my car was so new (11700 miles). By the way, I felt pulsing when speed > 40 mph ( bad but not terribly bad). Overall, very good experience.
I'm scared about the alignment and brake problems, which have some posters in the other discussions contacting NHTSA. Not ready to buy until the spring, so keep up the good work. Give me the bads and the goods when you all have time (can't all be bad, in an Accord, please. Bit jealous of those of you with navis. Don't want the high payments, but it's fun to hear the stories).
Harry
Just my luck. Why people in california do not know how to drive? May be Davis really should be recalled for this!.
By the way, did your airbags go off? I have seen some postings about the new accord where either the bags do not deploy or the wrong bag deploys.
03lxv6: Not bad. If you were in a Hyundai, it'd be $2G, easy! Assume you're OK. Let us know, please.
Mike, I assume you're OK too. Keep us posted on the repair situation. What a pain in the you-know-what. Bad drivers here too. AND, DO let us know about the airbag situation. You might have a valid claim.... $6800 is a LOT of damage. Consider an '04 after it's fixed.
Due to some crazy circumstances, I have only put about 1300 miles on my 03 Accord in 2 months. I will only be putting about 85 miles per week on it for the next 2 years. (~ 4500 miles/year).
The driving I do on it is mostly highway, with a few short trips (maybe 20% of the trips).
When should I get the oil changed at 5000 miles or every 6 months. Should I use synthetic then since I will go longer between oil changes.
This is absolutely crazy that I will have a car in 2 years that probably will have less than 10,000 miles on it! My previous rides have all had about 20 - 30k miles per year put on them. I guess I'll have a practically brand new car in 2005!
I am just wondering if there is any law that requires the responsible party to pay extra compensation above the repair cost. Because even if the car is repaired, the future resale value will depreciate (a lot in Mike's case, I believe).
i will keep you all posted as to how the car performs. i love the audio controls on the steering wheel, very tight suspension, handles bumps ok, climate control is awesome, and the acceleration is incredible, the car just seems to want to "go"
thanks again for everyone's input, it was a BIG help.
i will keep you all posted as to how the car performs. i love the audio controls on the steering wheel, very tight suspension, handles bumps ok, climate control is awesome, and the acceleration is incredible, the car just seems to want to "go"
thanks again for everyone's input, it was a BIG help.
http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/2003/August/06.html
The water and acid build up and subsequent damage would certainly be a concern for me. Since I'm rather obsessive compulsive with my vehicles' maintenance, I would personally change out my oil every 3 to 4 months just to purge out the water and acid.
-Ty
Oil Changes: Due to some really strange circumstances (caring for an ill parent; now deceased), I have only 25K miles on my '98 Malibu. Despite the Chevy issues, she runs like new. Have the oil changed every 3 months, regardless of the mileage.
Personally, I like to change it every 5k just because it's easier 5,10,15,20, etc. You could just do it at that 8000 mark then at 15k assuming you don't drive in "severe conditions" but... I wouldn't be too concerned this time around I would just change it when you get back...
Thanks.
Open the driver's side door and look for a placard
or sticker on the sill. The info should be there.
berbel
If I change oil at a non-dealership, will my warranty be voided?
If you decide to use another shop to do maintenance, your warranty should not be affected as long as you keep records - receipts, not just a log.
To the person who asked about when to change oil earlier, I would *strongly* suggest you take Honda Motor Co's recommendation of intervals at the first change. This has been discussed to death, but the original oil has "break-in" additives, and the vehicle is designed to be run on this through its initial break-in period. If you are breaking the car in as it should be, and not in a super-extreme environment, go for 5,000 to 7,500 miles.
The ride in the 03 Accord is far better controlled than in the previous generation Accord. This ain't your father's Oldsmobile though. It has been said the 03 Accord suspension has a more European tuning that in the past. Which generally means the driver feels a little more connected to the car and the road.
Sounds like the nervousness in the car you drove may have been an alignment problem; most likely toe related? I would go back and drive a different car before I wrote the Accord off. I continue to be impressed with my wife's Accord, the whole package works really well.
Or, you could be used to a car with mushy suspension?
This isn't a problem I ever hear about.