Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • baker16baker16 Member Posts: 45
    You might want to rethink your oil choice jrct9454. Problem 1: If you fail to follow Honda's recommendations while your car is under warranty you'll void your warranty. Problem 2: Honda, which has a reputation of knowing engines, designed the engine to have oil no thicker then 20 weight flowing through it. How do you figure trying to get thick 50 weight oil flowing through openings designed for thin 20 weight is a good thing? Problem #3: Your engine, once it's warmed up, is always running a lot hotter than 100 degrees. An outside temp of 80 v.s. 100 is going to make virtually no difference to you engine temp. I'd be more concerned about your antifreeze then your oil. IMO Honda knows what they're doing ... I'd do what they recommend.
  • fxz01fxz01 Member Posts: 2
    I am seriously considering a 95 Accord LX. It has a 5 speed transmission, all power, leather seats, and 98k miles. The dealer asked for $6500. Is that a good deal?

    This vehicle runs good, except that it shakes a little bit when the speed exceeds 60m/h. The dealer said that it was due to the balancing of tires and promised to fix that. Does anyone happens to have the similar problems, is that fixable.

    Thanks in advance!
  • fxz01fxz01 Member Posts: 2
    I appreciate it if anyone could provide some comments on their experience with 95 Accord LX 5spd sdn.

    Thanks!
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    If I were you, I would get it fixed before buy it and have another test drive with it.
  • picenopiceno Member Posts: 55
    I had to get my front Disc Brake rotors RE-SURFACED at 7,200 miles.
    The reason was that when I would brake at over 30 MPH, the
    steering wheel would SHIMMY. The dealer said that the rotors
    needed to be MACHINED (cut at the very minimum), because they
    were un-even, probably due to overheating.

    Honda is able to get around liability for this by simply
    saying that brake rotors are NOT covered under their warranty.
    [non-permissible content removed]! This means that if their brakes have a factory
    defect, the consumer has to pay for their mistake. Even though
    I love this car (it's a dream vehicle), I am disappointed that
    I had to have the rotors re-surfaced. I wanted NEW rotors
    installed, but the dealer refused, citing the warranty.

    Comments, anyone?
    Piceno
  • stuman168stuman168 Member Posts: 27
    I have been a four times accord owner and one of the major problem with accord is the brake rotors.
    each of them except the latest generation I end up resurfacing and then eventually replacing the rotor because it warps easily. they will not replace it under waranty because they claim a rotor is wear and tear parts
  • golfprdgygolfprdgy Member Posts: 5
    I've decided to purchase an Accord pretty soon, but I am having trouble deciding whether to get a 4-cylinder EX w/ leather interior, or an EX-V6. Can anyone lend some advice as to whether or not the extra 2000 grand or so is worth the bigger engine and everything?? Thanks!
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    On Honda's Canadian web site they list an EX-L model which is essentially an EX I4 with leather interior. However, this model is not listed in their Accord brochure. What's the scoop on this?
    Is it an upcoming limited edition model? Or is it only available in certain parts of the country?
  • mdamesmdames Member Posts: 79
    Last July I had the same question. I drove the 4 cylinder...... nice car, a little noisy, somewhat peppy, OK, but then..... I drove the V6. This was not the same car to me at all! Much quieter, silky smooth and powerful. Plus climate control and all the rest, I was sold. I MO the car is definitely worth $2K more. No question. I have owned my 2000 EX V6 sedan for 10 months. What a great car. I love the power and smooth ride. If you can afford it, go for the V6. By the way, it takes regular gas. I've been averaging about 24 mpg city/freeway driving.
  • noidea12noidea12 Member Posts: 1
    I am planning to get a new car. I can't between a 2001 accord lx and a 2001 altima gle. What would you guys recommand?
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Can be caused by water getting to the rotors when they are still very hot. Have you been through any deep puddles after hard braking. Are your splash shields intact? Did you wash your car immediately after a hard drive or stop(I did that one)? I mean think about it. Honda builds over 40,000 Accords a month...If there were an inherent brake problem it would have had over 1.5 million examples so far.
  • surfing19surfing19 Member Posts: 46
    Actually, if i were you i would go to the Honda Accord EX-Leather, The invoice price of the Nissan Altima GLE does start out to be cheaper, but once you put all the sames addes that the Accord EX-L already comes with, you are right at the same price.

    Invoice price of Altima GLE is:

    18,525
    540 Destination
    338 Cd 6disk changer
    454 ABS
    58 Floor Mats
    737 Sun Roof
    64 Splash Gaurds
    172 Vechicle Security System.
    _______________________________
    20,888 Price for the Accord EX-L is 21,220

    Yes you might get more rebates on the Altima, but,.. The Accord is a much better car all Around. In addition to that, the Accord is going to hold its value longer then the Altima. A few months ago I sold my 98 Accord EX-L with 45K on it for $16,000, now try to do that with a 98 Altima GLE!! You might also want to wait and get the 2002 Accord when it comes out in a few months. Long term this is a smarter choise, because you are going to be paying the same ammount for the car but it will be consider a year newer, therefore it will have a stonger value if you decide to trade it in for the new redisign model which is coming next year.
  • picenopiceno Member Posts: 55
    To Golfprdgy:

    BUY THE EX-V6! I have the 2000 model, in Signet Grey. What a wonderful automobile! The VTEC engine is awsome...silky smooth...so quiet that very often the only way to know if the engine is engaged is to look at the odometer.

    On the highway, a kickdown on the gas pedal, and I am passing other cars asif they are standing still. The acceleration on the V6 is astounding. However, the caviat is paying more for gas...if you want the power, you will pay for the power.

    Also:
    1)Automatic climate control is an excellent feature. Set the
    temperature you want, and forget it!
    2)Steering wheel mounted audio controls is something that is
    definitely very useful.
    3)The HOMELINK sytem allows me to open my garage door, without
    needing the garage door remote control. Very handy.
    4)In my opinion, the alloy wheels look better on the V6 than the 4.
    The V6 looks SPORTIER.

    I hope this helps you make your decision a little easier.
    Piceno
  • picenopiceno Member Posts: 55
    Wait for the 2002 Altima comes out.....It has been
    totally re-designed. It looks a LOT better then the model it replaces, which I've NEVER liked anyway.

    PICENO
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Baker: Thanks for the advice, but I have no worries about Honda giving me a hard time for using Castrol Syntec 5w50 in place of 5w20. The dealer tech actually commented that this is what he encourages people to use in their cars in our area. You are a little off in understanding what high ambient [air] temps do to the inside of the engine, but that's not the point. Regular oil changes with a synthetic are not going to cause Honda to back away from a warranty problem, I can assure you. Some dealers still don't have a regular source for 5w20 oil - this is all related to getting good fuel mileage results from the EPA tests, not about long-term engine protection.
    [For the record, the difference between 80F and 100F outside temps can translate into a 100F difference inside the engine, the difference between 400F and over 500F. This is why they recommend you change the cam belt more often if you continuously drive in these kinds of temps. I always raise the hood when we are back in the garage after driving the car in the summer, so that the heat doesn't stay trapped in there longer than necessary].

    On warped rotors: this is almost always caused by the rotors getting wet when hot, or sometimes can be caused by simply stopping in place after the rotors are especially hot [hard use of brakes, or very hot outside ambient temps]. Ford has had this problem on all their cars, but especially the front drive ones, for decades...our '92 Sable went through 3 sets of front rotors in 15k miles, one of the reasons I sold the car. Our '90 Corolla had lumpy rotors from about 20k miles on, though the lumpiness was mild enough to ignore until the 40k mark. So far, none of my Honda products [Acura RL, two post-'98 Accords] have had this problem, but I am under no illusions that it can happen any time if the circumstances are right. I avoid heavy braking and am careful about how I use the water at the car wash, but it can happen even when you do everything right. Yes, it would be nice if they switched suppliers for these parts, but it is my impression that the current generation of Hondas is much less prone to this problem that some of the older cars.
  • lacarguylacarguy Member Posts: 9
    I'm interested in a Honda Accord Ex 4. Does anyone know if I can Black I/ black leather.? I seen a neighgbors with a six cyclinder. But with the costs of gas interested in that choice with four cylinders.
  • surfing19surfing19 Member Posts: 46
    Hey, where did you see the 2002 Honda Accord. I heard that there wasn't going to be a change in the look of the 2002, and a total redesign for 2003, which we know will be release August of 2002.
  • surfing19surfing19 Member Posts: 46
    I think you can only get Black Leather on the Coupe and its actually charcoal, not black., I know its not offered on the 4 door, only light gray, which in my opinion looks cheep
  • tanveermtanveerm Member Posts: 42
    In Canada, the EX-L (or EX Leather) was just introduced a few weeks ago, probably to bring back some interest in Honda's given all the advertising Toyota is doing on their Camry's. It is now available (I've seen add's in Toronto-area papers) and dealers were talking about them a month ago. Maybe the brochure on the Honda site is outdated but www.Honda.ca has complete spc's and pricing on the car. It should be available across the country I would think. Essentially an EX-V6 minus the V6, passenger power seat and some other minor options.
  • jguojguo Member Posts: 49
    I have learned 2 important things about warped rotors after my previous car had repeated rotor problems (a camry).

    1. Always wait for the rotors to cool before you wash your car. On EX accords, the rotors are just too exposed, and sparying a lot of cold water on hot rotors are just too easy.

    2. After service from shops that require removal of the wheels, always loosen and then tighten the lug nuts yourself. Almost always the shops (honda dealers included) over tightens them, even after you warn them not to do it.

    My current accord has more than 50K miles and the only brake service that I had done was to replace the rear pads.

    -Jun
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Have to replace the rear pads? They never wear out on FWD cars. I thought.
    5W-50 Syntec...The only way to go.
  • amz997amz997 Member Posts: 61
    I have a deposit on a EX and I was suppose to get the car today and the dealer says they will not have the car till Tuesday.

    He says the car is being shipped from Ohio?

    where are the accords built?
  • lacarguylacarguy Member Posts: 9
    Yeah your right. The only black/black I saw was two door coupe with V6. Oh well maybe in the Accords's next generation.
  • jguojguo Member Posts: 49
    fxashun,
    Rear pads will wear out on all cars, doesn't matter FWD or RWD . However I was surprised that I had to replace rear ones first because majority of the brake work is done with front brakes.
  • ineto6ineto6 Member Posts: 161
    Yup, Honda Accords are built in Ohio - so are the Acura TL/CL
  • danohdanoh Member Posts: 26
    Marysville, Ohio is the city where accords are built, among other Honda products.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Thanks for info on EX-L.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Good catch, Jun....I forgot to second that motion in my first post: another really common cause of warped rotors is the gorilla in the service dpt using an air wrench on the lugnuts that either overtightens them, or leaves one or more much tighter than the others. This is actually the most common way the rotors can get twisted. I also never leave the dealership or shop after having a wheel pulled without retorquing the wheels myself with my torque wrench. The correct figures are in your owner's manual, but a good rule of thumb is not to exceed 80 ft-lbs, unless the book specifically calls for it.
  • smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    If most of your driving is on the highway or if you drive extremely cautiously (brake early, often, and long), chances are your back pads will wear out first. Also, I was told that the rear pads are about half the thickness of the fronts to start with.
  • onebuconebuc Member Posts: 28
    I have a 1996 Accord EX, and have been for some time experiencing a very high pitched squeak while driving. The noise is not there while excellorating and also goes away when the brakes are applied. Constantly there when at cruising speeds (any speed) any suggestions. Have fairly new pads also replaced master cylinder 1 year ago. Any thoughts? Thanks alot
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Sounds like the pads were not properly lubed when they were replaced. There is a special lube that is used to keep the pads from developing a high-pitched vibration within the calipers, and failure to do this step during pad replacement often means a lot of squealing....I know, having made this mistake for the first time nearly 25 years ago with our Porsche 914. A good brake shop, and most dealers, are very conscientious about this, but mistakes happen. Also, use of non-Honda pads can have the same effect...

    The reason it goes away when you apply the brakes is of course that then the pads are not free to move about within the caliper during actual braking, only when pressure is released [i.e., all of the rest of the time!].
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I believe they are buying these from local dealers and not en masse direct from Honda like Toyota does.

    Our store has done a few with a couple small local rental stores.

    I too would hate to see Honda do this but I'm almost certain they aren't.
  • ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    i have a question regarding fuel gauge.... after i fill the tank with gas, every car i've owned tended to have it's fuel gauge needle stay on F for full for about 100 miles (once the fuel gauge got to just 1/4 of tank left, that needle tended to move to E kinda fast)... i think it had to do with the shape of the gas tank-- wider at the top, narrower at the bottom.... but i notice on my new accord coupe that after 75 to 100 miles, the fuel gauge is already down to 3/4 of the tank... is this kinda normal with other owners? you fill the tank and after 75 miles or so, the needle is already down to 3/4 of the tank? i checked my fuel mileage and on first tank, i was getting 23.5 mpg--- (V6 engine)-- which is acceptable. i'm just not used to the fuel gauge needle not staying on F for as long a time as my other cars. i wonder if the honda fuel tank has the shape of a sphere, or watermelon.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    My gauge does the same thing. Quick to move from F to 3/4 and then slows down from there. Here's how I rationalize it. First off, the gauge is only reading about 14 gals. because when it's at E there is still 3 gals in the tank. So if you divide 14 by 4 each quarter is @ 3.5 gals. Now, my car, a v6, gets @ 20 mpg city, so at 3/4 fuel reading the tripmeter should be somewhere around 70 miles(which it is), at 1/2 reading 140 miles, etc. You must realize 3 gals are not being read by the fuel gauge.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    I can also confirm that for V6s, the behavior described is average for our car, and indeed a bit different than our '98 4 cyl.

    This topic seems to be all over the Edmunds' boards...remember the fuel gauge, sending unit, and tank design all contribute to the last imprecise analog part of an otherwise digital universe...it will never be precise, always approximate.
  • ants513ants513 Member Posts: 4
    I am looking at a 97 Accord EX Coupe with 71k. Besides the standard options, it has AM/FM/CD/Tape, 6 speakers stereo. The dealer is going to get it certified (which will give an extended warranty up to 100K). The price is $10k. Any thoughts? Thanks.

    Don
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Did you have the rears replaced? You complaint sounds as if either the sensor on the pad is hitting meaning they ned replaced or maybe you have a bent dust shield on one of the rotors causing your noise. Good luck.
  • onebuconebuc Member Posts: 28
    Yes the rear has been replaced, as well as the front. However both have been over one year since that was done. This noise also has been going on for some time also. Thanks Terry
  • interspy24interspy24 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 94 Accord EX 5 speed, and I was wanting to change the shift knob. How do you remove the existing one? Also, I have the tape deck with six speakers, and I was wanting to replace the deck with a ad player, but do not know how to remove the dash to get to the radio. Any help will be appreciated, thank you.
  • unmarkedcarunmarkedcar Member Posts: 162
    Call crutchfield at 1-888-955-6000. You can order instalation instructions for your car, even if you do not buy a stereo from them. I think it is $5.00.
  • accordfans1accordfans1 Member Posts: 1
    For those of you who have an Accord EX V6, could you guys tell me how much did you pay for? The best deal I heard was $23,500 including tax. I am dying to get one before June 4. But I don't know how much I should pay for. I will greatly appreciate if you have any input on this. Thanks for a billion.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Remember, ALL PRICING IS LOCAL. I paid $23.5k for an '01 EX v6, but that was two weeks after intro in Sept 2000. Now, a good price in Northern CA for that car is on the order of $700-900 less, or very near nominal invoice.

    Saying $23.5 including tax doesn't help much, since every place has different sales tax and other local tax differences. However, in an area with a middling sales tax, a price like that sounds pretty good, since it would imply a transaction price [pre-tax] of about $22-22.5k, which if true would be very close to dealer cost, including chopping a bit into holdback.
  • gomergomer Member Posts: 7
    I have an easy question for all of you Hondaphiles. Prior to test driving the EXV6, I'd like to know if the Accords have central locking. What I mean is if the driver door can control all of the other door locks (without keyless if necessary.) I'm coming from the world of VWs and Saabs that have this feature and I really find it handy.Thanks.
  • smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    The EX has power locks that work with switches mounted on both front doors that lock and unlock all of the doors. In addition, the keyless entry remote will unlock the driver's door with one click and all four doors with two clicks (and, of course, lock all 4 with one click).
  • golfprdgygolfprdgy Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help on deciding which Accord I should get! I chose the EX-V6. The dealer quoted me a price of $23,739.52. This price includes:

    Invoice= 22774.71
    Mud Guards= 98.00
    Wheel Locks= 51.00
    Chrome Exhaust Tips= 70.00
    Taxes= 689.81
    Tag and Title= 56.00

    What do you guys think about that price?? Is the dealer's true cost a little lower? Or should the price go into holdback some? It sounded like a pretty good deal to me. Thanks for any help!
  • picenopiceno Member Posts: 55
    To Golfprdgy:

    Great decision! You're gonna love the EX-V6! Get the
    dealer to throw in the simulated wood-grain on the dash,
    doors, and console. This really adds a CLASSY look to the
    interior. I had the dealer include it, and I love it!

    I purchased my car on Montreal, Canada in May, 2000 for
    $30,075 (Canadian), before taxes. Also, I had the GOLD
    badge set included (at no extra cost)...another classy
    item.

    By the way, which pofessional golfer are you a prodigy
    of? Tiger Woods? If this is the case, you could probably
    afford a Lamborghini instead of a Honda....Tiger is a very
    rich man!

    Piceno
  • hbund216hbund216 Member Posts: 162
    If you are willing to install the parts yourself you can buy most of the accessories cheaper from another place like www.hparts.com.
  • geaux1geaux1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a spotless '96 EX, and have never used anything but a damp cloth on the dash. But after five years in Texas, it may need a solvent to bring the lustre back. I don't care for the slick, "Armor All" finish... can anybody reccomend a good cleaner/polish that won't leave the dash looking unnaturally shiny and slick?

    Thanks.
  • dwillia4dwillia4 Member Posts: 17
    You can also unlock all four doors from the driver's door by using the key. Just hold the key in the unlock position.
  • achenatorachenator Member Posts: 128
    I have started using a product on my 2001 EX called Vinylex. It comes highly recommended on the Town Hall. It does not leave a shiny residue unless you go crazy with it. It is made by Lexol leather treatment which also is good. I got both at Poop Boys(Pep Boys). About $10 for 16oz. Kind of expensive but worth it. A little goes pretty far. I know the huge windshield on my Accord will let the hot Louisiana sun do some damage if there is no protection. Also I saw a product at DAPS called 3M Refresh which is a cream, it also is ok...or so I hear.
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