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Comments
This vehicle runs good, except that it shakes a little bit when the speed exceeds 60m/h. The dealer said that it was due to the balancing of tires and promised to fix that. Does anyone happens to have the similar problems, is that fixable.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks!
The reason was that when I would brake at over 30 MPH, the
steering wheel would SHIMMY. The dealer said that the rotors
needed to be MACHINED (cut at the very minimum), because they
were un-even, probably due to overheating.
Honda is able to get around liability for this by simply
saying that brake rotors are NOT covered under their warranty.
[non-permissible content removed]! This means that if their brakes have a factory
defect, the consumer has to pay for their mistake. Even though
I love this car (it's a dream vehicle), I am disappointed that
I had to have the rotors re-surfaced. I wanted NEW rotors
installed, but the dealer refused, citing the warranty.
Comments, anyone?
Piceno
each of them except the latest generation I end up resurfacing and then eventually replacing the rotor because it warps easily. they will not replace it under waranty because they claim a rotor is wear and tear parts
Is it an upcoming limited edition model? Or is it only available in certain parts of the country?
Invoice price of Altima GLE is:
18,525
540 Destination
338 Cd 6disk changer
454 ABS
58 Floor Mats
737 Sun Roof
64 Splash Gaurds
172 Vechicle Security System.
_______________________________
20,888 Price for the Accord EX-L is 21,220
Yes you might get more rebates on the Altima, but,.. The Accord is a much better car all Around. In addition to that, the Accord is going to hold its value longer then the Altima. A few months ago I sold my 98 Accord EX-L with 45K on it for $16,000, now try to do that with a 98 Altima GLE!! You might also want to wait and get the 2002 Accord when it comes out in a few months. Long term this is a smarter choise, because you are going to be paying the same ammount for the car but it will be consider a year newer, therefore it will have a stonger value if you decide to trade it in for the new redisign model which is coming next year.
BUY THE EX-V6! I have the 2000 model, in Signet Grey. What a wonderful automobile! The VTEC engine is awsome...silky smooth...so quiet that very often the only way to know if the engine is engaged is to look at the odometer.
On the highway, a kickdown on the gas pedal, and I am passing other cars asif they are standing still. The acceleration on the V6 is astounding. However, the caviat is paying more for gas...if you want the power, you will pay for the power.
Also:
1)Automatic climate control is an excellent feature. Set the
temperature you want, and forget it!
2)Steering wheel mounted audio controls is something that is
definitely very useful.
3)The HOMELINK sytem allows me to open my garage door, without
needing the garage door remote control. Very handy.
4)In my opinion, the alloy wheels look better on the V6 than the 4.
The V6 looks SPORTIER.
I hope this helps you make your decision a little easier.
Piceno
totally re-designed. It looks a LOT better then the model it replaces, which I've NEVER liked anyway.
PICENO
[For the record, the difference between 80F and 100F outside temps can translate into a 100F difference inside the engine, the difference between 400F and over 500F. This is why they recommend you change the cam belt more often if you continuously drive in these kinds of temps. I always raise the hood when we are back in the garage after driving the car in the summer, so that the heat doesn't stay trapped in there longer than necessary].
On warped rotors: this is almost always caused by the rotors getting wet when hot, or sometimes can be caused by simply stopping in place after the rotors are especially hot [hard use of brakes, or very hot outside ambient temps]. Ford has had this problem on all their cars, but especially the front drive ones, for decades...our '92 Sable went through 3 sets of front rotors in 15k miles, one of the reasons I sold the car. Our '90 Corolla had lumpy rotors from about 20k miles on, though the lumpiness was mild enough to ignore until the 40k mark. So far, none of my Honda products [Acura RL, two post-'98 Accords] have had this problem, but I am under no illusions that it can happen any time if the circumstances are right. I avoid heavy braking and am careful about how I use the water at the car wash, but it can happen even when you do everything right. Yes, it would be nice if they switched suppliers for these parts, but it is my impression that the current generation of Hondas is much less prone to this problem that some of the older cars.
1. Always wait for the rotors to cool before you wash your car. On EX accords, the rotors are just too exposed, and sparying a lot of cold water on hot rotors are just too easy.
2. After service from shops that require removal of the wheels, always loosen and then tighten the lug nuts yourself. Almost always the shops (honda dealers included) over tightens them, even after you warn them not to do it.
My current accord has more than 50K miles and the only brake service that I had done was to replace the rear pads.
-Jun
5W-50 Syntec...The only way to go.
He says the car is being shipped from Ohio?
where are the accords built?
Rear pads will wear out on all cars, doesn't matter FWD or RWD . However I was surprised that I had to replace rear ones first because majority of the brake work is done with front brakes.
The reason it goes away when you apply the brakes is of course that then the pads are not free to move about within the caliper during actual braking, only when pressure is released [i.e., all of the rest of the time!].
Our store has done a few with a couple small local rental stores.
I too would hate to see Honda do this but I'm almost certain they aren't.
This topic seems to be all over the Edmunds' boards...remember the fuel gauge, sending unit, and tank design all contribute to the last imprecise analog part of an otherwise digital universe...it will never be precise, always approximate.
Don
Saying $23.5 including tax doesn't help much, since every place has different sales tax and other local tax differences. However, in an area with a middling sales tax, a price like that sounds pretty good, since it would imply a transaction price [pre-tax] of about $22-22.5k, which if true would be very close to dealer cost, including chopping a bit into holdback.
Invoice= 22774.71
Mud Guards= 98.00
Wheel Locks= 51.00
Chrome Exhaust Tips= 70.00
Taxes= 689.81
Tag and Title= 56.00
What do you guys think about that price?? Is the dealer's true cost a little lower? Or should the price go into holdback some? It sounded like a pretty good deal to me. Thanks for any help!
Great decision! You're gonna love the EX-V6! Get the
dealer to throw in the simulated wood-grain on the dash,
doors, and console. This really adds a CLASSY look to the
interior. I had the dealer include it, and I love it!
I purchased my car on Montreal, Canada in May, 2000 for
$30,075 (Canadian), before taxes. Also, I had the GOLD
badge set included (at no extra cost)...another classy
item.
By the way, which pofessional golfer are you a prodigy
of? Tiger Woods? If this is the case, you could probably
afford a Lamborghini instead of a Honda....Tiger is a very
rich man!
Piceno
Thanks.