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Comments
Thanks
When I called Honda about it, they said the Trip Computer shows total mileage "as the crow flies" rather than actual rotations of the wheels. If this is true, how in the world can the MPG calculations be accurate?
Is anyone else seeing this behavior in their Honda? BTW, I have a 2003 Honda Accord sedan.
The computer works without the Nav system being activated. Took a trip to the west coast and back. Avg. 29mpg going out (head wind) and 36mpg coming back (tail wind). The car was fully loaded both ways. Had about a thousand miles on the odometer before the trip. Averaged 32.5 mpg for the trip. Figures based on the computer readings.
;-)
try clay bar before waxing too. you'll be amazed at the difference.
more important than the reality to honda... "
Image is very important. That's why we now have Lexus, Infiniti, Acura. And we don't see the Benz A-class, small 1-series BMW's, or 1.6L 3 series here. It's all about image.
A-class, small 1-series BMW's, or 1.6L 3 series here."
This has nothing to do with Honda's hiding access
to TSBs, etc., from buyers and owners of hondas (and acuras).
Are you saying BMW, Mercedes (Chrysler), and others restrict
access to information about their cars on Alldata?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If I see one that I feel is relevant, I ask the service manager at my dealership and he shows it to me.
Perhaps not as convenient as Alldata, but certainly not hidden.
http://152.122.48.13/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/TSBs/2003/SB-100- - 01302-9980.pdf
You need Acrobat to view it.
Has anyone had a glass finish problem in this regard? If so, what did you do about it?
And the wipers just glide over it... I've never seen wipers operate so smoothly.
Don't know if this might help, but I thought I'd at least mention it.
I picked up one of the touch-up paint pens today from the dealership. Does anyone have any tips for usage? Since it's starting to get cool outside these days, I'm wondering if there is a 'minimum' recommended temp. to apply it. Also, paint code is "Light Gold Prl YR538M" which I hope is the '03 Desert Mist code (The Honda Service dude picked it out of the handbook).
Live in snow country and some of the sand they use is more like boulders.
Awesome car.
Driver's door...fixed once by dealer and re-appeared after 2 months.
Rear passenger side rattles; goes away but comes back sometimes.
Dash rattles sometimes...not always
I usually only notice when the family is in the car; that's when the stereo or engine isin't blaring
about waiting for the paint to cure really doesn't
apply any more.
You have a brand new car, right? Stay away from
clay bars. You have no reason to use one as you
have a brand new paint job. If you care for your
paint correctly, you'll never need a clay bar.
A cleaner/wax, maybe, (in lieu of polish) but not
clay. Clay is appropriate under certain conditions
but certainly not needed with new paint.
berbel
I am just about to order several Zaino products and the Clay Bar is one of them.
Here's a place to pursue this: Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair. And in case you haven't found it, there is a very active Zaino discussion that might also be of interest.
Good luck!
Today's snow has been a different story, but it still looks pretty good.
I didn't buy a clay bar. I figure I will wait until spring and try a non-abrasive one.
Use the Zaino claybar with a lot of lubricant, with front to back, up and down motions. You will be surprised what is on your brand new paint.
I'll stick with my original advice.
Claybars used by inexperienced detailers can cause
more problems than they solve and can actually be
abrasive to your clearcoat if not used properly.
Use a high sudsing auto wash like Meguiars Gold
and a high quality carnauba like P21S. After your
car has been exposed to the elements for six months
consider using clay but follow the application
instructions to the letter.
I'm not a professional detailer but I'm anal about
my car's condition and I READ A LOT.
good luck/berbel
simply saying that there's a time to use them and
a time NOT to use them.
berbel
Thanks.
I also had the problem with the color. I wanted a 4 cylinder with manual transmission. The dealer said they had one coming in 2 to 3 weeks (it really took 6 weeks). When my wife tried to change the color the day after I ordered it, they said that is the only one coming in but we could cancel or wait until a different color came in but he said that would take a very long time. We did not cancel and glad we got the car. I was able to get it below carsdirect's price with no trade-in and not surprises and delivery.
It only had 1 mile on the odometer and 1.9 on the trip meters when I got it!!
Very well stated !
berbel
Apparently the car's computer didn't compensate enough for the new air/fuel ratio, which made the engine run "lean" (and presumably detonate poorly) all the time. Sustained highway speed compounded the faulty combustion condition, which eventually caused engine failure. Engine replacement was only solution.
You might want to bring this up with the store you're buying from, and get their inputs/warranties.
The most annoying thing is the rattles, I've spent a lot of time in the last year getting rid of most of them although I still have one or two. In comparison my wife's year old Tribute has none.
The second most annoying thing is the very stiff ride with little or no payback in handling ability. The ride is about on par with the Tribute but I actually think The Mazda handles a bit better.
There are a lot of things to like about the car but these two things just ruin it for me and after driving it daily for a full year I don't think I'm jumping the gun with my decision.
cheers...
Makes for a noisy engine too.
I'd been driving a '99 Acura TL so this was actually a step down. I'm now retired and I couldn't afford to continue at the near luxury level, but believe me, I'm not suffering a bit with the Accord.
I had to wait about 1 month for delivery because 80% of the buyers opt for automatic. I must admit that my years with the automatic TL were rather boring, and I'm rediscovering the joys of manual stick-shift.
This 4 cylinder engine is very peppy, the car feels tighter and almost sporty. Hitting the gas in 2nd and feeling it surge up over 40 mph is great fun around town. The torque is down low where it's most useful. I had test-driven an Acura TSX and find this car almost as fun with the advantage of using regualar gas.
No rattles or squeaks. No pulling to one side. No grabby brakes. (I'm referring to frequently mentioned problems on this board).
Engine and road noise are really quite low... not as low as the TL, but look at the price difference. I have driven a Mazda6 and it's definitely much quieter in the cabin.
My advice... Go for it!
With respect to the Mazda 6i, it should also be very sporty with a manual but the 4 cyl Mazda with the automatic was a BIG disappointment when I drove it. The Mazda 6i engine and 4 speed auto trans are not well matched--the Accord engine and 5 speed automatic are far better in my opinion.
I'm sure the Accord V6 is very quick and satisfying to drive but car shoppers should definitely test the 4 cyl Accord because it will surprise people who have preconceived ideas about slow and noisy 4s--the Accord 4 is very different and very quick, too.......Richard
I do like the 86-89 style Accords very much but I have noticed there arent as many of them out on the road as there used to be. Since I live in the NY city area, I take public transportation to Work and so I dont put alot of miles on my Honda. From September '95 to now, Ive only logged a little over 25K miles on it. Lately, Ive been having some problems with the carburator - the car has been idling rough and more seriously, it goes into fast idle mode and when that happens I have to pull the car over and turn it off otherwise I can hardly keep my foot on the brake to keep the car from moving forward- obviously not safe and certainly not good for the engine when its racing at 4000rpm. I did bring the car to a garage and also to another place to have the problem checked out and if there is anything that Ive learned its that most places really dont want to get too involved in trying to figure out carburator problems
Anyway...., I have been considering whether it might be time for me to get a new Accord. Since I dont put alot of miles on the car, I'd probably get the best value by buying an Accord of the '98-'02 generation but I am intrigued by the new style '03/'04's. Can anyone offer any advice/opinions on some questions I have?
- Does the 03/04 Accord offer any significant improvements over the 98-02 generation? I have read some things Online about brake and alignment problems on the new models that I'm concerned about. Does it look like the latest generation Accords are really built to last (like the 86-89's are) or are they already plagued with Service Bulletin problems early on, or is the quality such that they will be ok for a few years and then fall apart when they start to acquire some age?
- Are leather seats worth spending the extra $$ for to buy the EX model to get them?
-Are side airbags really worth it to spend the extra $$ for to get an LX over the DX? Worth it- meaning, they really do offer increased safety?
I was thinking I just might try and get a new Accord DX (4dr auto) where its likely the lower $ price will be appealing (though I'm sure the dealer would try and talk me into buying a fancier Accord). I am not sure what the latest situation is regarding auto-theft, but perhaps getting a DX would be better in that those damn thieves would not be as inclined to steal them as they would the more desireable EX models and the extra airbags they have- yes/no??
- Does anyone have any recommendations for which Honda dealer I should visit in the NY city/Long Island area? I would like to go to a place where there is NO high pressure sales, NO gimmicks- which means not getting suckered into paying any unnecessary dealer fees and so forth.
At first I was thinking that I would rather pay for the car in cash rather than the lease option. But then the thought came to mind - what if the car has some problems such as in the service bulletins- I'd then be puttng myself in a potentially bad situation whereby the dealer has all my money already that I gave them when I bought the car and I'm at their mercy to hope that they will tend to my car in a prompt manner and fix the problem(s) correctly. My credit score is over 800 and as I mentioned before, I would not be putting alot of miles onthe car (though I have heard it said that its not good for a car to sit too long either, and better for it to get some hiway driving, which I would do if I bought a new car) - so can anyone recommend a Honda dealer in my area that can go along with my expectations- expectations meaning, I want to pay the absolute lowest price- NO Unnessary fees! and I want any service bulletin issues to have been checked on my car beforehand and have it put in writing that if any problems develop and the dealer cannot fix them promptly and correctly, that I can give the car back to them and be rid of it without penalty in any way, shape and form as secretly hidden in any fine print. In other words, I'd like to buy and own the car but pay for it monthly as in lease form so that I can have the security to make sure the dealer stands behind their product. If everything is ok for the first 36 months, I would then feel assured that the car is 100% and I'd pay the balance in full. And with my over 800 credit score, I prefer to pay as close to 0% interest charges on the montly payment as possible. Am I expecting too much or can any dealer in the NY area go along with it?
For a low-use/long-ownership vehicle, a current Accord is a good choice imo. It's a fundamentally sound vehicle whose inital defects shouldn't worsen over time. Also, it'll likely be 5 or more years before it becomes a high-theft risk, since car theft mostly feeds replacement parts for old vehicles.
While getting a pre-owned 2003 might seem like a wise option, today's low APR (e.g., 1.9% for 36 mos) for new Accords mostly negates that. Used car APRs are at least 3% points higher, and over 3 years this amounts to approximately $1,500 in interest savings - virtually deleting the advantage of a pre-owned's depreciated price.
I'd get the LX over the DX; for the price premium, one enjoys a properly installed HVAC system, remote entry, etc. and an easier resale if needed. And since I've owned a 98 vintage Accord, I can say that our 03 Accords (EX coupe and 4-dr) feel like a step up from a Civic.
I have a 2003 LX V6 which I've been driving since March. Standard sound is fine but not remarkable. Since day 1, however, I've had static on the FM band on local FM stations that were static-free in my 1993 Civic. After several visits dealer has declared it "normal"so that is a dead end.
Anyone else had the FM static/interference problem on 2003 Accords? Solved it? Anyone substituted an outside aerial for the antenna embedded in the rear window?
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#12754 of 12906 AUDIO IN NEW ACCORD by bartalk2 Nov 18, 2003 (1:08 pm)
Owners of '03 and '04 Accords, how's the audio quality--radio and CD? Pretty standard car radio stuff or good quality audio? I have a Bose system in my Maxima which is great, and the audio in the new Acura TL is supposed to be the best in the business.
When you are thinking about which trim level to buy ask yourself do I really really need power windows/locks or even leather seats etc, etc. You should buy which trim level of Accord is actually useful for you. Sure the dealer will try to get you in a fancier model Accord but either they can make sale or they can't. Don't let the salesguy talk you into something you don't want.
The only con about buying a brand new Accord is where you live in my opinion.
Lastly, as far as the buying experience is concerned try to find a Honda dealer that is cloest to your house and see if you can make a good deal on a new Accord. If dealer number 1 can't make a good deal than go to another dealer that will.
Finally, If you have to the car in for warranty work you might want the dealer that you buy the car from to be close to your house.