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Comments
Watch out for any dealer fees. These are almost pure profit for the dealer and should be added to the final price.
Don't get overcharged for accessories/add-ons/warranties, either.
Hope this helps.
We each have to decide what is acceptable to ourselves, of course. And if you decide that all Bridgestone and Firestone tires are unacceptable to you based on one specific model range of tire on one car (or SUV, as the case is here), then that is your prerogative. However, you statement condemning the entire company is unfounded, especially considering how many millions of Bridgestone and Firestone tires have been and are in use on millions of non-Explorers around the world, without significant issue.
I follow this board pretty closely and have read
most of your previous posts. I agree with a lot
you have said but I'm not sure I understand your
comment about the Turanza LS.
I took off the oem Michelins when they had only
3000 miles on them because I didn't like the way
they handled. I replaced with the Turanza LS-V's
and have felt a world of positive difference with
these tires. I was certainly unaware of any "known
failure rate" with this particular tire.
Please expound with the data as I'm now very
concerned about this!
berbel
Greg, you must be brain washed by Michelin's "baby in the tire" advertising. Michelins are good tires, but they are also susceptible to failure as is ANY tire. The Firestone/Bridgestone problem was identified by a specific tire and a specific vehicle combination. But if you want to cast off the entire company, that's your prerogative.
Your logic reminds me of Rain Man, who would only fly Quantus Airlines because they were the only company that did not have a history of plane failures. To each his own, I guess.
Firestone and Ford blamed each other over the Explorer problem and therefore ended a relationship that began between Henry Ford and Harvey Firestone many years ago.
Ford said the tires were bad and Firestone said Ford reccomended too low of air pressure for a softer ride.
As I recall, all of the tire failures happened on very hot days with Explorers that were loaded down with passengers and other cargo.
Who really knows?
I never had a bit of trouble with my Michelins on my 99 Accord V-6 coupe. I replace them at 50,000 and they still had half their tread. The Bridgestone Turanzas are much quieter and perform better in the rain.
Nobody talks about the real Ford/Firestone story-Ford saved something like $10 a vehicle by going with Firestone instead of the tires GM put on their UAV's AKA Urban Assault Vehicles.
It is amazing how many under inflated tires I see on the road-on occasion they are on my vehicle-DUMB.
Twice now, I've been told over the phone that a dealer has the color, trim, etc. and I go there and find out that they "made a mistake" (i.e. EX vs. EXV6) BUT that they can happily locate the exact car I want.
Thanks.
http://www.luterileyhonda.com/
Believe me, when I managed a large auto center, I saw more than my share of failed Michelins too.
Anyone who wants to continue should join us over in our Tires, Tires, Tires discussion.
And yes, things are getting too personal. Don't take those comments with you.
Thanks.
In the 04 EX V6, there is a light in the glove box. It may, however come on when the headlight/parklights are on. I am not sure of the LX or DX or 4cycl models.
Something I thought was strange--the light never goes out. It stayes on even when the glovebox is closed. I only know because I can see a very faint glow through the area of the opening.
Thanks. I'll check that out tonight. However, I did use a flashlight and looked into the glove box. I didnot see any light bulb or anything that looked like a light bulb inside the glove box. May it be outside the glove box ?
The light is always on? Something doesn't seem correct. Ours turn off, when you close the box. Are you sure? Maybe the switch got hung up?
you sure about that? my rear defroster DOES NOT turn off automatically either...
Also, for anyone living in the Cincinnati/Northern KY area....have any of you used Superior Collision Repair to fix your vehicles? What were your impressions? I'm thinking about taking my veicle to them to paint the front and rear bumpers of my vehicle. What other collision repair places come recommended in the area? A coworker of mine recommended Randy Lane's Autobody up in Harrison. Thanks in advance for your responses.
1) Bottom line: It's the best way to repair minor dents and dings. A good, veteran dent remover can achieve 98-99%, if not 100%, restoration. That no repaint is involved is key - no fading, mismatching, etc.
2) Interview/size up the actual dent remover before committing. By nature, most of these professionals are perfectionists but you can still meet the "it's just a job" individual whose standards are not as high.
My wife's O3 EX-L sustained a headlight/front fender hit from a flying object on the interstate couple months back. Repair, repaint and new headlight were quoted by a bodyshop at $1,500.00. In the end spent $280; bought headlight myself (eBay) and had Autodent remove dent. Quality of finished repair exceeded what would have been a hammering/filler/repaint job.
Standard charge is $60/ding or something like $80 per panel with more than one dent/ding.
Highly recommend it.
I'm planning on having the front and rear bumpers repainted at the same time. The dealership is paying for the front, and the elderly lady's insurance company is paying for the rear bumper and quarter panel. I wonder if they (the insurance company) would go for me taking it one place to be painted, and another to remove the slight dent? The estimate their adjusted provided indicated to repair and refinish the rear bumper cover (I'm no body shop expert, but I didn't know you could "repair" a dented plastic bumper cover. Plus, they're supposed to return it to pre-loss condition. Pre-loss, I had a 99.9% new bumper). I explained this, and the fact that in a previous life I worked in the auto insurance industry (for State Farm). His response was that he didn't think the dent in the bumper cover was enough to warrant the extra $400 for a new bumper. I guess we'll wait and see what the body shop says.
The estimate also indicates to repair and refinish the quarter panel (6 hours of total labor). I think it would save them money if Dent Wizard can fix this part; like atlantabenny said it would probably only cost around $60. Personally, I don't think it needs repainted anyways. Sure, the very bottom of the panel is scratched a little, but I think they should be able to clean that up no problem.
Again, thanks for the 2 quick responses. I'm interested in hearing what other people have experienced, as well as comments about Superior Collision or other body shops in the Cincinnati/Northern KY area.
Glove box light is still on after the comparment is closed.
Rear defogger does not automatically turn off after 30 minutes. My 89 Accord does in 25 minutes. Could this be a new design for the new Accord? I have to check the manual.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Basically, I'm saying that I want compensated for 1. the fact that they lied to me (and it can be proven) when the salesperson said it would be 60-90 days before they would get another Accord like mine from the factory....they had one in 3 weeks! 2. the diminished value my vehicle has suffered as a result of their employee damaging it. They've offered to repair it, but there's no way I'm taking my car all they way back down there again to let them mess it up more. I propose that I send them an estimate from a location of my choice and they pay the bill. 3. finally, I want compensated for my time. This has dragged on now for a month, and I imagine it'll be another month or two before it gets resolved, which it will.
My advice to everyone: find a dealership where the employees are HONEST and the owner PROFESSIONAL. The distance in this instance (75 miles) isn't a factor in my problems. I would advise though to purchase your Honda from a dealership closer than this.