Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • jrock65jrock65 Member Posts: 1,371
    The auto climate control uses the air conditioner during heating mode to keep the air dry. I think almost all cars are this way, since people seem to prefer dry heat to humid heat.
  • jarlesjarles Member Posts: 7
  • htthtt Member Posts: 75
    According to the manual if you set to the highest temp in auto mode, the system will never use the AC.
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    That sounds comfortable.
  • jarlesjarles Member Posts: 7
    Sorry about the previous non-message, I acccidentally hit return.
    I am an organic chemistry professor at the university level, and when introducing hydrocarbons to undergraduates I typically use octane (the molecule) vs. octane rating as an example to get the class' interest (with varying success).
    I think bd21 is typically correct: running a higher grade fuel then suggested will not improve any performance aspect of your vehicle, while costing you more. I don't think the sulfur smell is related to this, however. As I'm sure bd21 knows, octane in gasoline is "isooctane", which is a branched hydrocarbon that will not spontaneously combust when compressed (at least not very easily), and is given an octane rating of 100. n-heptane, which is a straight chain hydrocarbon, combusts much more easily, and is given an octane rating of 0. So 89 octane means you are running a gas mixture with a combustion profile that is the same as an 89/11 isooctane:heptane mixture.
    Sorry for the babbling, but I don't see how this would possibly cause a sulfur smell. I do understand that if your car's engine cannot take advantage of this, any performance enhancement is absent.
    It sounds like bd21 has far more real-life experience with automobiles and gasoline than myself, but from a chemist's point of view I don't see anything that could be negative about running gasoline with a higher octane rating.

    Sorry for the drawn-out response.
  • ken972ken972 Member Posts: 162
    I have been confused by it myself. As to which mode its in..I usually leave it in auto. When the A/C kicks in air comes out the vents in front of you..when its heating air is coming out the defog and foot vents. So thats one way to tell. Still figuring out how to just be in vent mode..just have fresh air come in the vents without pressing the a/c button to make sure it is off.
  • firemann1firemann1 Member Posts: 14
    The owner's manual is a good source of information. As I understand the design of the Camry V-6, it is designed for premium fuel (but I don't know the minimum octane level). Premium should be used in the Camry V-6. This is one of the reasons why I selected the Accord V-6 - 87 Octane fuel is perfectably acceptable in the Honda.
  • bnestibnesti Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the responses on the climate control.

    Re: turning off the A/C... to prevent cycling. Can I do that and still keep it in "Auto" climate control?

    If my memory isn't failing, seems like it kicks out of auto as soon as the A/C button is pressed.

    I live in Denver... typically on the dry side.... I wish I could select a checkbox somewhere to tell it not to cycle when in the heating mode... of course, unless I was trying to defog the windshield.

    Of course, we really like our Accord... only had it a week so far. First time with auto climate control on a vehicle.

    Bryan
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,691
    Does a higher percent of isooctane/normal heptane burn cooler if the compression ratio is not higher thus leaving more deposites behind?

    Earlier discussion has questioned whether using higher octance than regular may have a detrimental effect rather than only providing the alleged higher horsepower output (no mention of higher torque from 89 or 91).

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    When you turn the a/c off the climate control remains on (even though the green dash light turns off). It will still regulate the temperature to keep it at whatever setting you have chosen, only it wont dry the air. Obviously, this is only true in cold weather when heating the car as you cannot cool the car in hot weather without using the a/c.

    There is no outright "vent" setting - although this would be nice. If you just want fresh air, you still have to choose a temperature setting. I create a vent-like situation by choosing fresh air, dash air flow, fan speed 1 or 2, a/c off and a cool temperature (65 or so).

    My only gripe with the nav system is all the buttons you need to press to perform simple tasks like this. Radio preset buttons would be nice too.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    your points about using premium gas on a car not designed to run on premium gas are valid and quite good. however, you seem to be missing the point that the accord's v6 IS designed for using premium fuel. check out the compression ratio for the v6 yourself.

    both Charles Baker (head of Accord development) and Yasuaki Asaki (V-6 engineer) have acknowledged that the v6 is good for another 10 hp and 10-plus lbs.-ft. on premium gas.

    i'm not a mechanic like yourself and don't quite understand how they also designed the accord v6 to run on lower octane fuel without any negative long term effects.

    i'm not recommending to anyone who drives an accord v6 that they should use premium fuel but doing so certainly won't hurt the engine. the manual recommends 86 octane OR higher. the improved performance would barely be noticeable and only at high rpms.

    isellhondas: your comments were not appreciated and i certainly will take the word from the above two honda officials over you. perhaps you should be more knowledgeable about the products you sell.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    It's my understanding 'octane rating' is a number that relates how well gasoline 'resists' ignition.

    The higher the octane rating, the higher resistance to ignition. In other words, premium does not ignite as well/quickly as regular. (Some of you didn't know that, did you.)

    In other words, premium resists pre-ignition or ping or fuel knock. Usually allowing higher compression ratios to be used.

    It is also my understanding that using premium in an engine designed for regular gasoline may lead to greater carbon buildup in the cylinders, on the rings, etc. This is because of premiums greater resistance to ignition, in a lower compression engine, it is possible to have a less complete burn of the gasoline, leaving more carbon...

    So, using premium in an engine not designed for it may actually cause problems.
  • dust90dust90 Member Posts: 169
    I don't know where you got an owner's manual that says the V6 requires premium, as the manual with the wife's 03 Camry clearly states for the 1MZ-FE engine(V6)"..octane rating of 87 or higher. For improved vehicle performance...an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended", which is almost identical to the the Accord fuel reccomendation and the vast majority of Accord v6 owners are running regular quite satisfactorly.
  • dust90dust90 Member Posts: 169
    How about $.20/gal as a negative! But you are right on with the octane analysis. I've even seen people pay outrageous prices for aviation fuel which is now almost entirely 100 octane. It burns slower than 87 octane auto fuel so some of it is still unburned when it exits the cylinder. I'm sure that would be the same for premium auto fuel UNLESS your engine can compensate for the higher octane which it appears that SOME of the Honda and Toyota V6s can.

    And Venus, I think that Isell was making a general comment about engines where the owner's manual recommends only regular fuel but the owner is absolutely convinced(from reading posts on this non-technical, but opinionated forum?)that if it costs more, it has to be better!! And if you are offended by Isell's comments, my feeling is, "if the shoe fits, wear it!"
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    The 2004 Honda Civic Owners Manual states that you can use "86 or higher octane" in the engine. So I guess "Honda" thinks it is "ok" to use "premium".
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    I you are so sure that my fuel formula is "wrong", why don't you "give it a try"? ----Greg
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    An engine cannot take advantage of premium until it is under load / stress such as: -----(hard acceleration, climbing a long hill, moving a loaded vehile, operating in a hot / humid climate with the AC on, passing another vehicle in "passing gear"). The additional octane is only insurance against detonation and / or preignition under stress. The computer on most vehicles will advance the ignition timing until a spark knock is heard by the knock sensor, then it will back the timing off a few degrees. With the higher octane there is less possibility of "knock", and the possibility of an additional spark advance by the computer, (better performance under "load"). If you take a different point of view on this subject, run 3 or 4 tank fulls of premium in your vehicle and objectively evaluate the performance.
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    No, I'll have to pass, because my engines on all my cars have always run great and I have kept every car I have owned over 100,000 miles without a single fuel injector change, power problem, or idle issue. All were run on regular gas as recommended and I don't use any additives. Although I did have my dad add Motor Honey to his Chevy Vega to keep the smoke down from burning oil. Why on earth anyone would use a higher grade gas then required and use additives regularly when they are not required is beyond me. I'd rather save the unnecessary $1000 plus you are adding over the life of your vehicle in operating cost and buy something real as opposed to a placebo of unproven benefit. Again, it's your car and money, so you got to do what you got to do. I plan on keeping both my 2004 Civic and 2001 Accord 4 cylinders for at least 13 years like most of the cars I owned in the past. I will never add an additive unless I have a specific issue like water in the gas (other than what gas already contains) and I will always use regular gas. I just sold my 13 year old Nissan Sentra a few weeks ago to a guy at work and he has told me over and over how much he loves the car and how well it runs. I was the original owner and I follow my own advice. That Nissan never needed any internal engine maintenance and it didn't burn any oil. It ran strong and smooth. I believe in regular oil changes and as a minimum I use the extreme maintenance schedual in the owner's manual regardless of your driving habits.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    We can "agree" to "disagree"! I don't keep my vehicles beyond 100,000 miles because they require too much maintenance at that point in time, they are no longer dependable, and they are out of warranty which makes me liable for the total cost of major repairs. I will not put myself in the position of having to put a remanufactured transmission in a vehicle with 100,000 + miles on the clock. Our 2003 Accord has 20,000 miles on the clock after one year of ownership. At this rate, we will have 100,000 in five years, so I guess we will be looking at a 2008 / 09 Accord as a replacement depending on the mileage. After 100,000 miles everything in the vehicle is worn. The suspension is lazy, and the seats are no longer comfortable. Remember, you only live once so enjoy every day! If you do not spend your money on yourself and your wife, the "nursing home" will get it, and they will spend it on their new vehicles!-----Greg
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    "If you take a different point of view on this subject, run 3 or 4 tank fulls of premium in your vehicle and objectively evaluate the performance."

    Done this... proved to me beyond any doubt that this has no value with an engine tuned for 87 octane. Isellhondas hit it right on the head when he talked about a placebo effect.

    But everyone should do what seems best for them.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Not trying to start anything. But 100,000 mile Camrys and Accords are far from tired. And when you figure depreciation/interest, there are very few major repairs on a 100,000 mile example of these cars that will compare with the costs of buying a new car.

    The only reason for buying a new car is that you just want to have the first butt in the seat. But there is nothing wrong with used Accords or Camrys. This is coming from the owner of a 2003 Civic SI and a 2004 Acord EX-L.

    But I do have a paid for 123,000 mile 1994 LS400 which I wouldn't part with even if gas hit $3.00 a gallon. There is no way I'm buying a new LS430.
  • beechjet21beechjet21 Member Posts: 26
    From the Honda website:

    "What's that sulfur smell coming from my vehicle?

     All gasolines contain trace amounts of sulfur. The human sense of smell can detect sulfur odor in concentrations as low as 3 to 5 parts per million in air.
     
     The exhaust on today's catalyst-equipped Honda vehicles will emit varying degrees of sulfur odor depending on operating temperatures and conditions. On normally operating vehicles, the odor is usually noticeable when the engine is cold, right after deceleration, or after wide-open throttle acceleration.

     It may not be possible to eliminate sulfur odor completely due to the various operating conditions."

     I've noticed this on my 03 V6 Accord from day one. I've experimented with different brands of fuel with no success. The odor is most noticeable right after a mild to hard acceleration.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    dust90: it may be a small point, but the accord's v6 engine is compensating for the lower octane and not the other way around. when running on premium fuel the accord's v6 is at peek efficiency.

    now your comments about my comments about isellhondas comments weren't appreciated. the shoe part, not the general part. you may be right about that.

    gregoryc1: out of curiosity, do you have the i4 or v6 accord? i like your nursing home comment (very funny), but if you have the i4 engine you're just helping out the good folks of the oil industry (more then you need to) buying their new cars!

    me on the other hand, i buy cars so often that i pay for the college tuition of my salesman's kids!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Why are we talking about Camrys, Civics, Vegas and - most importantly - EACH OTHER?

    This octane debate goes on and on - I can't see where anyone is going to change his or her perspective, so I'm not sure that there is an point at all ...

    Continue it if you wish, but you need to do so politely, without slamming each other and you need to stay on the subject of the discussion, which of course is the Accord.

    If someone states an opinion that you don't like, you are not required to tell the person that - just move on.

    Okay? :)
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    now how much does marketing effect what kind of fuel an engine is designed for?

    premium fuel sure seems to be pushed in the luxury market. take the TSX, essentially the same engine as the accord's i4 but with more peek horsepower at higher rpms. there are other differences with the engines, but with its higher compression ratio it requires premium fuel.
  • porknbeansporknbeans Member Posts: 465
    All of this discussion of premium vs non-premium gas has me wondering if the computer on the Accord recognizes the change in octane immediately or does it take a couple of tanks? I thought that the later was the case. If this is true then all of the discussion about noticing a difference in performance or gas mileage immediately upon filling up may be misplaced. Which is it?
    Porknbeans

    Grand High Poobah
    The Fraternal Order of Procrastinators
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...but you notice how much effect it has.

    On the question of sulfur odor, it should be noted that this is hardly unique to Honda - the most vociferous complaints actually seem to be over on the Toyota boards.

    In California, and any market that gets its motor fuel from CA refineries [some parts of Oregon, Nevada, and Arizona], there are generally no complaints about sulfur smells because CA already requires both gasoline and diesel fuel to be much lower in sulfur than the national average. All fuel in the US will get cleaned up under current law, but not until 2006 [since the Oil Barons pretty much own Wash. DC these days].

    One of the reasons why switching stations and brands in a given market doesn't often do a lot of good is that [contrary to the marketing hype] most fuel markets are dominated by a couple of major refiners, who supply all of the stations, regardless of brand. Additive packages can actually be manipulated right where the trucks are loaded. Our Exxon refinery in Benicia CA, for example, put out gasoline that was sold under at least 5 different major brands, of which Exxon was actually the least important [having very little retail presence left in the Bay Area].

    The point being, if the crude being processed is coming from high-sulfur sources, and the local refineries are not required to do much about it, then all the fuel in a given market is going to be high in sulfur content. I note that Honda stops short of blaming Washington [ very circumspect of them ], but basically, until the entire country gets on lower-sulfur fuel, this will continue to be a problem in many places.

    Canadian and Alaskan crudes tend to be especially high in sulfur, incidentally, which means most of the country north of the Mason-Dixon is getting a lot of its fuel from these sources.
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    Check out this story...

    I had my oil changed a little over a week ago at the Honda dealer where I purchased my 2003 Accord. It was the 15K mile service, severe driving schedule, so all they did was an oil and filter change. My wife left to visit family for a week a couple of days later so I left the car parked in the garage and drove her SUV.

    When I backed the car out of the garage (after it sat for a week) I noticed an oil puddle on the floor. My first thought was that they were sloppy when adding the new oil and this was probably just some spilt oil that was dripping off the engine block. I checked the oil and the level was fine. Also the engine was clean. Then I crawled underneath and noticed a drop of oil hanging off the drain plug. This is the exact location where the puddle was. I checked the tightness of the plug and it was barely finger tight! The dealer forgot to tighten the oil plug after changing the oil! I torqued the oil plug to Honda's specifications and all if fine now.

    Imagine what would have happened if I did not park the car for a week. Or if I did not park it in the same spot every day and notice the puddle of oil. The leak was slow enough that I probably wouldn't have noticed it until the plug fell out and all my oil drained onto the highway while driving!!!

    I have avoided oil change places with this car even though I despise paying extra for essentially the same work at the dealer. From now on I will take the car to my trusted family mechanic for all non-warrantee work. (I had been taking the car to the dealer while it was still under warrantee.)

    I plan on calling the dealer on Monday to speak to their service manager about this. Hopefully they will give me the overpriced 20K service for free. After that, adios dealer service department.
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    You all have good points! jarles, a friend of mine is a chemist too, so your cranial answer cracked me up. Down at my level it sounded right. Yes I know you can stick premium in the 6 cylinder Accord and the engine will run O.K. because of its sensors, but why would you do that when it will run fine on regular. Unless I could put it on a dyno to verify increased performance I would stick to regular. Also, a supposed 10HP gain would not even be noticed unless you were running your car on a track. Stick to the fuel your car maker suggests and you will have more money to spend on something else.
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    The other day, after someone in a travel lane decided to stop and try to go left (someone else was in the turn lane), I was forced to floor the gas and go arouind to avoid being rear ended (right lane was clear) and then stopped for a red light about a block away. Got the sulpher smell then, undoubtably from the excess gas dumped by flooring the gas and then braking before it had time to clear out. Good thing was, the V6 really gets up and going when needed.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    You were very fortunate indeed. But if you didn't catch this, at worst you would have been stranded when enough oil leaked out for the low oil pressure light to come on. That is assuming you stopped immediately and had it towed back to the dealer.
  • nw1997nw1997 Member Posts: 227
    Man, I think I started an octane war. Seriously, the sulfer smell never occurred to us until I switched from the 89 to the 87 octane. I am now using the 89 octane for about two weeks, engine is back to idling smooth and not once have I smelled the sulfur again. Many have claimed that using 87 is the way to go and some say 93 octane/premium grade is the way to go. Personally, I prefer to stay in the middle and keep using the 89 octane. It seems to be better for us. We will have to see down the line if anyone has sensor issues from using 87 or premium gasoline. It is true, why is it that the Lexus and Acura, etc push premium for their vehicles. It's funny when we leased the RX300 they stated that it must be operated with premium. Now when Toyota came out with the Highlander, same engine as the 2000 RX300, the dealership pushed 87 or "higher octane". I read between the lines, "Recommended" is the key word, same goes for oil changes "recommended" oil changes. The manufacturer can recommended all they want, I go with what works for me, I don't believe everything I read or even see. I prefer to experience it first hand and that is exactly what I did when I switched for the 87 to 89 octane.

    Just my 2 cents.
  • lelandhendrixlelandhendrix Member Posts: 240
    I'm guessing that you are using the V6. Other V6 owners may experience the same.

    More than likely, the 4-cyl owners would experience just the opposite.
  • nw1997nw1997 Member Posts: 227
    lelandhendrix,

        Yes, we have an 04 EX V6 and I believe that the V6's are taking advantage of the higher octane gas, while the I4 it doesn't matter what octane is in their. Out of curiosity, when you put 93 or higher octane in, what is the trip computer reading with straight HWY miles? We are getting 33.6 MPG on the HWY with 89 octane.
  • htthtt Member Posts: 75
    After delivery of my EX V6 I felt the engine was somewhat rough at startup. I didn't know what kind of gas the dealer put in the tank and how old the gas was. After the first tank I put mid-grade (89 octane) in my tank. I felt it ran smoother after a few days. I plan to use mid-grade for now until I can find proof that higher octane doesn't help. I know the manual says 86 or higher.
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    2 things...

    First, I also have an EX V6. I've run only 87 octane in it since day one, and I've never had any problems with it being rough on startup. The engine performs flawlessly at all times with the recommended grade of fuel. And I live in an area where we experience temperatures from -15 to 95 degrees F over the span of the seasons, so we encounter just about everything.

    Second, most experts will give you the following advice... if your engine is exhibiting problems while using the recommended grade of fuel and switching to a higher octane fuel helps, in almost all cases there's a problem with your engine that should be corrected. The higher octane fuel is just a band-aid, masking the symptoms of the problem. If it were me, I'd take it in for service.
  • htthtt Member Posts: 75
    Thanks for your advice. I'm going to switch to 87 octane to see if the engine turns rough. If it does, I'll take it in for service.
  • accordedaccorded Member Posts: 5
    When I bought my EX-V6 in Jan. I knew that it would perform better with premium (91 octane). So I ran about 3 tankfuls of premium after the initial dealer fill-up. Any car with a 10:1 compression ratio will deliver more horsepower with premium and proper timing advance - basic mechanics. To get that extra power the, timing needs to advance to it's fullest - until pre-ignition occurs. The job of the knock sensor is to work with the computer to achieve that state. I seldom run at RPM's where the advanced timing would add power because my speed limit occurs with the RPM's around 2200. Premium costs an extra 10%. I don't get 10% better milage with premium so I'm back to regular. If I were racing the car, no question I'd get an extra 10 HP, but I don't. Sulphur smell and idling differences between regular and premium are beyond me. Premium gas just burns a little slower than regular, it can't hurt your engine. Just my experience and two bits.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Really think they could detect an additional 10 H.P. on an engine that puts out 240 H.P.?

    I suppose if a peerson really thinks they need that ever so slight horsepower increase maybe spending the extra monsy makes sense.

    Anybody?
  • dust90dust90 Member Posts: 169
    EX V6 sedan weighs 3384. At 240 HP that's 14.1 lbs/HP.

    To keep the same HP/weight ratio at 250 HP, you would need to add 141 lbs.

    This is less than the avg weight of one person, so if you need another 10 HP, just throw out your significant other and bingo - more power. Now, this assumes that you have the engine at 6250RPM, where max HP is made.
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    This is from the just-released "Consumer Reports" annual auto issue:

    - FAMILY SEDAN: Volkswagen Passat/Honda Accord. For the second year in a row, the Accord and Passat share the honors in this category. The Accord ($21,000 to $23,000) is our Top Pick among four-cylinder models, the Passat (about $30,000) among V6 versions. Both provide an excellent balance of comfort and sporty handling. There is no change in this category from 2003.

    My '04 EX-L 4 cyl. AT sedan is the best car I've ever owned and among the best I've ever driven at any price.........Richard
  • alg20alg20 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, don't know if this really belongs here but I do have a 2003 V6 3.0 Accord. With only 10,000 miles on it, the Radio Crapped out. Honda Techs could not find a problem with the car fuses/system so they just replaced the radio 3 weeks later after telling me on Monday it would be done on that Friday. Also, during my wait time, the A/C which I religiously set at 68-72 reset itself while driving to 65 and blew out HELLA HOT AIR and Kept doing it on and off for about 30 mins. Today when they replaced the Radio they told me that there is an UPDATE on the HONDA TECH "site" for the A/C and that they updated my ECM or ECU with it. ASK ME I SAY AHH FOOOIEEEEE!...... just as a note... the Radio which is supposed to be brand new looks refurbished.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Member Posts: 833
    does anyone know if the Accord will be offering any new color options in the middle of 2004? Other Honda cars have done this and I was wondering what other options might be coming up.

    thx
  • horsejdhorsejd Member Posts: 18
    (I have tried checking for past posts, to no avail). Does anyone know from first hand experience which models are available with rear side curtain airbags. The Honda site appears to indicate that they are only available in EX models with Leather (both 4 cyl. and 6 cyl.). However, the Kelly Blue Book site (new car pricing) lists side curtain airbags with cloth seats (are those just the front?). Bottom line, I am trying to determine if I can configure the Accord with 4 cyl., manual with cloth seats with rear side curtain airbags. (Then to add to the confusion, is that configuration available with navigation system). Any help and insight is much appreciated. Thanks.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...side curtain [i.e. "head protection"] bags are only available on the leather-equipped EX [which means all 6s and only the EX4s that are "L" models]. All other references are to side [thorax] bags built into the seats.

    Honda has committed to making head bags available on ALL their models in the next few years. I would look for much wider use of the side curtain bags for the '05 model year in the Accord, but that doesn't help much if you want to buy now.
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    Curtain air bags cover the front and rear on all Accords that have side curtains. They are standard on V6 EXs and on EX-Ls (4 cyl. with leather).

    Side curtains are available as an option on all EX models. For the additional $300 retail price, side curtains are well worth the protection. That's only $150 per side (front and back) to protect you and your passengers' brains. IMO it's brainless not to have them.....Richard
  • tim_hooligantim_hooligan Member Posts: 143
    I am looking to buy an older car since I am returning to graduate school soon. Since money will be an issue, I am looking for an older car in the $4k-$8k price range. The Accord is a natural choice (had an '89 and it was great) and I was wondering what other model years would fit my budget and also were reliable. I was thinking the 1996-ish year was good.

    Thoughts???
  • sunangelasunangela Member Posts: 22
    94 for added $aving since 94-97 are roughly the same car, or 98 for extra space and comfort (noise reduction).
  • kenm8kenm8 Member Posts: 71
    I had a 95 LX V6 (70K Mi) and traded it in on a 98 LX V6 (50K Mi) and traded that in on a 2000 Odyssey EX (Still have). I remember test driving the 95 4 cyl engine car and felt that it handled better than the V6. But, I wanted more power and went with the V6.

    The 95, 98 were trouble free. I test drove the 98 in Feb 98 and very quickly decided that I had to have it. It was superior to the 95 with regard to engine, transmission, interior space and handling. The trans on the 98 was very smooth shifting. The 95 trans (V6) was not smooth - I recall that car magazine tests of that time reported this also. Also, the 98 engine (I beleive) was the first year for VTEC design and you could feel the extra power of it upon acceleration.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    The 90-93 generation was a good one as well. We have seen several very high mileage versions of that generation and would not hesitate to buy one with 150,000 miles on it.
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