Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Crappy brakes?
    I can say the same thing for my 89 Accord, but for my 03EXV6, the brakes have been flawless for almost 2 yrs now.
    What you might need is a new set of calipers for the front.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Actually that may be why we spend so much time looking at cars. We both work part-time so someone will always be home with Lil-Gee. That leaves a lot of time to think about the next car we want. Not to mention a lot of on-line browsing time.

    We've already got the Acura TL buy-date on the calendar.
  • jomabu1jomabu1 Member Posts: 37
    bjorkman,

    I have a 90 Honda Accord that I purchased new and will be replacing soon. I can think of two problem areas.

    The first area is minor. The temperature controller knob and attachment point is made out of plastic. The male part that the temp controller knob fits into is made out of metal. The plastic knob cracks. Was $6 to replace. Just pull the knob off.

    The other area was a bit of a surprise. I couldn't get into or out of the car one day from the drivers side. Appearantly there is a design flaw with with the door locking mechanism that causes it to fail. The dealer knew enough about this problem that they stocked the parts. To repair the problem, the front drivers seat had to be removed, the door panel had to be removed, and the door lock had to be drilled out just to open the door. All this was done in 2002. I had just 88,000 miles on the car at the time. The labor rate that the Seattle Honda Dealer charged was I think $72/hr. HERE IS THE WHOPPER! It cost $800 to have the repair made. I don't know where you live but where I live now the labor rate at the Honda dealer is now $97/hr so the repair would cost $1,000 to be done at the dealer now.

    One other problem that I had is the speedo, tach, and odometer went dead a year ago. The computer failed which cost $240 in parts plus labor. It was really hot when it happened (100+) so could have been the weather.

    One pain with the 5spd manual is that the clutch engagement is really high which makes smooth starts difficult. Most people stall the car before getting the hang of things. Might want to checkout clutch wear.

    On the great side, the car is still very solid and has no rattles or squeaks. I get 30 mpg on the highway.

    I think the 90-91 models didn't have airbags or abs. I think the ex models there after had airbags and possibly abs.

    Good luck hope I didn't scare you!
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    According to Owner Link I am part of the V6 recall. I only have 14.2K on the car and will get the Injection kit with no inspection. I have been playing with the car re: the whine and I doubt if I have the same problem as you had. Mine seems to be more of a whistle while accelerating in the lower gears at less than half throttle (as I pass thru 3000rpm or so) and mostly when the engine is not totally warmed up. I am going to experiment to see if it is so at all times and at different throttle positions. Possibly a normal thing. I have no problemwith the shifting, just the noise that I didn't notice earlier on. If your transmission was replaced, might it of had the larger passages that eliminate the need for injection kit (as the latest '04's have)? If it is remanufactured based on the older "recallable" transmissions, you have a point about the recall if it is extended to the 4cylinder.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    my brakes don't stop the car smoothly. if you are travelling at any speed over 50 mph and have to apply the brakes with any type of real pressure, the pedal and car vibrate. it is a typical rotor issue. you can touch the rotors on the front - they are not smooth. the back rotors are perfect.

    not sure if the V6's weight up front coupled with soft rotors and hard pads are just too much for the car, but Friday will be the 3rd time in 13k miles that the car will have the brakes serviced. scary huh?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I would make sure whoever does the service is using a torque wrench on the lug nuts. There's no reason rotors should warp that quickly. You're not a left footed braker, are you?
  • rascalerascale Member Posts: 19
    I also had a rotor issue. My 2004 Accord V6 Coupe had the front rotors replaced right out of the gate. The other two Accords I drove were fine; this one, however, had a rotor problem. Other than that the car is great.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    can't brake with a left foot. learned how to drive with a stick, and still drive my Miata daily as well. left foot braking is the most unnatural feeling thing in the world to me.

    well, second to saying or hearing the words "compassionate" and "conservative" in the same sentence. ;)

    yup, i sense this post will be deleted soon...;)
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Ask them to grease the caliper pins to. If the caliper can't slide freely, that can result in DTV (disc thickness variation) in a relatively short time. It doesn't take more than a couple thousands of an inch of thickness variation to be felt in the brake pedal.
  • nycanyca Member Posts: 232
    those rotors are warped, cutting them only makes it incrementally worse, they need to be replaced.

    are you really hard on the brakes? it would have to be a constant thing, to get them that hot to warp them.

    to be honest - what I have seen more of is people who (inadvertently) wash the car just after driving it with the brakes hot. spraying a hot rotor with cold water from a hose will warp them (especially a rotor that is thin to begin with). if you hand wash, do so only with cool brakes. if you see steam rising from the brakes when you wash the car, you've made a mistake. if you use a car wash, don't get on the brakes too hard on your trip to the car wash.
  • nycanyca Member Posts: 232
    not smooth? are the rotors gouged, do you see grooves cut into them? a little glaze on the surface is one thing, but if they are grooved, then either the pads are totally worn out and cutting them, or something else is going on.
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    I, too, am about to return to the dealer for brake issues (vibrating when pressed at higher speeds) at approximately 12,000 miles. I've already had the pads replaced (about 2 weeks after I bought the car), the rotors turned a few months later (for the vibrating issue), and then the pads and rotors replaced at 7,000 miles (for the recurring vibrating issue). I think it's pretty ridiculous. I've never had brake issues like this with any previous car. And I haven't doused the hot rotors with cold water or otherwise abused the brakes.

    My car is also affected by the transmission recall, though I haven't had any issues with the transmission.

    I just moved to an area with excellent public transportation, so I'm considering selling the car. I like driving it, but I don't want a brake job every few months for the life of the car, particularly after the warranty period is over.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    May I ask, what did they tell you had happened after replacing pads in just 2 weeks?
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    Well, my 04 LX 4 cyl. survived its transmission transplant. The abnormal, loud whining noise at 45 mph is gone, which is good, and it seems to perform normally in all other respects. However, the jury will have to be out for awhile, since my original transmission was also normal for its first 4,000 miles or so before the whine developed.

    I still shudder at the thought of taking a brand new transmission out of a brand new car and replacing it with one that has an unknown pedigree. However, if that's what it takes to correct the defect, so be it. My service manager said he did not know if the replacement transmission was new or remanufactured.

    I'm hoping that's the end of my transmission story, and that I can get back to enjoying the car. So far, so good.

    snakehair,

    Since my service manager can't tell me if the replacement transmission is new or not, he obviously has no idea when it was built, or rebuilt. So the larger passages you mention to solve the lack of lubrication around second gear is an unknown factor to me at this point. I didn't realize that was the exact cause of the problem -- thanks for the info.

    I mentioned to my service manager the idea I've seen floated on this tread, that it's the higher torque of the 6 cyl. putting more stress on the transmission that causes the problem, whereas the 4 cylinders are not part of the recall because of their much lower torque. He didn't have any reaction to that, but seemed a little ironical about whether or not the recall will be extended to 4 cylinders. I really hope the 4 cylinders are not having that problem, but I guess we'll have to wait and see.

    As to other noises you may be hearing -- I think my replacement tranny has a few noises of its own, but I'm willing to live with them. The loud whine I had just went way above my threshold. Of course, that's up to each individual to judge for themselves. When driving the car yesterday with the "new" tranny, I realized I have been spoiled, in a way, because my last two cars -- Camry and Buick Regal -- had very quiet transmissions. I just accept that the Accord is not quite as quiet overall as those cars, as a tradeoff for the more engaging driving experience I think it offers. But that's just my take on it.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    Not that U should have this on your mind, while your car is obviously working well; I find it hard to believe that your service guy doesn't know or can't find out if U have a new or reman. transmission installed. Maybe he thought U wanted new, and reman. is the one that would fix the problem, but not knowing sounds like a dodge.
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    So, did you buy any of these Accords? If so, which one and why?
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    I couldn't agree more. It's either new or rebuilt, and somebody at Honda knows that. But not me. My service manager either really doesn't know, or is feigning ignorance, for whatever reason.

    That's pretty much my take on all my dealings with auto dealerships over the years, both during the buying experience and then the service part. I get some good information, some clearly bogus information, and sometimes just a lack of information. So you're kind of on your own. That's one reason I like this Edmunds thread -- we can help each other make up for some of those gaps in information.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    in fact, in the Accord, i cringe at the thought of using them, so i have actually been throwing the car in D3 when i can. Honda knows there is a problem, the Customer Service Rep and the Regional Rep acknowledged it. they just don't have a solution except to replace the pads and turn the rotors every couple thousand miles. i don't mind new brakes, but i would expect FREE brake jobs for the duration of the time i own the car, even if after 36k miles. you know that won't happen though.

    if you call the parts department and ask for a set or rotors for 03 Accord, the part # is the same as a set for 04 Accord. so i don't really feel better about new rotors either....

    and no, i avoid puddles and carwashes at all costs.

    i don't see me being able to keep the car, and my sanity, through the end of the summer. maybe they will surprise me though.
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    Regarding the pads that were replaced in the first two weeks, Honda essentially said that they were defective and that they were reformulating the pads (which I believe they eventually did). In the meantime, they just put on new (but not reformulated) pads.

    When they eventually had to replace the pads again, as well as the rotors, I thought that they put on the newer, reformulated pads. Either they didn't (since I'm having the same problem again) or the reformulated pads aren't up to snuff either. I think they probably just didn't put on the reformulated pads the last time around.

    Honda Corporation has been fairly cooperative throughout, and I hope that continues. I've dealt directly with Honda Customer Relations since the problem began.
  • biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    Using your transmission instead of your brakes to slow down your car might be considered folly by some. Brake pads and rotors are MUCH cheaper than a remanufactured transmission. This is especially true for Honda automatic transmissions. If there are issues with the braking system on your car get the system repaired. Depending upon the dealership, you might have to be persistent, but eventually they will get the message that you will not go away until the problem goes away. Do you know whether the problem is affecting braking distance? I would not sacrifice my transmission because I feel I am "using" up my brake pads & rotors. Of course this is just my opinion, so take it for what it is worth.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    i hear ya, but the downshifting to D3 is much smoother than the whole "shake rattle and roll" the car does when you press the brakes.

    not too worried about the tranny. it performs flawlessly strangely enough. i won't have the car past 36k miles anyway...
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...when having brake work done [or any time the wheels are off the car] to have the wheel bolts re-torqued BY HAND, USING A TORQUE WRENCH SET TO THE CORRECT LEVEL [check your manual, 80 ft-lbs is a good guideline]. I do it right there on the tarmac at the dealership before driving away. Never assume this is routine at any car or tire dealer - it should be, and often is, but any uneven or overtightening will very shortly warp the rotors just as quickly as overheating or premature washing. Too much trouble? Then it's hard to complain about rotor warping...
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    I agree and it's important. I've done it right on the premises after service B4 driving off and a couple times I've had to have the lugs tightened correctly, as they were already to tight. I suppose this has been a solution for enough folks that the shops in my area seem to have gotten the hint.
  • stacey_burkestacey_burke Member Posts: 88
    With all of the postings of problems, I have looked into honda care. The price I was given was 980 for 6 years 100,000 miles 0 deduction.

    Is this a good price?

    I have a EXL V6 with Navi
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    i am taking my car in tomorrow for brake work, and i asked about the recall. could they do all the work at once?

    they said they haven't even received one shipment of oil jet kits yet. they haven't done a single recall repair yet. they are waiting on instruction and kits.

    i think i like the idea of NOT being the first one to have the work done. let the Honda techs get the hang of it first seem like a great idea considering...

    can i just say how much i still love the climate control system in my Accord? i love my Miata, but there is nothing like starting the Accord and having to touch NOTHING the whole trip with regard to being the perfect temp.
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    I agree completely...

    I've been involved in many discussions in the Mazda 6 vs. Acura TSX forum, and the Mazda fans would directly compare the base 4-cyl. 6i to the 4-cyl. TSX. They were trying to make the point that the TSX was so overpriced compared to the 6i, as they placed little to no value on the luxury features.

    I brought up the automatic climate control, and they acted as if I had just dropped in from another planet. "What's so hard about turning a couple knobs?"

    I replied "don't knock it until you've tried it", but they weren't convinced in the slightest. Their loss, IMO.

    But to be honest, before I got my first Accord EX with climate control, I thought it was frivolous, too. But the EX had other features that I wanted, so I had to take the climate control anyway. After I had it for a while, I really began to appreciate, as you say, the perfect temp control all the time. Now I'm really spoiled... ;)
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    i had it in the 2002 325Ci. but you still had to select A/C if you wanted A/C. i hated that. plus, it was hard to understand. the Accord's auto climate control really could not be easier. of course, i don't have NAV system - not sure if that would complicate things.

    the mazda6s had climate control that i test drove, but it also didn't have breakaway side mirrors. breakaway side mirrors are really important i think. not a deal breaker all the time, but still a very nice touch.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    i'll third that! i do really like the honda auto climate control. what i like in particular is that the fan speed doesn't ever get so fast/loud that it becomes annoying unlike other cars i've owned/leased. really a good setup...!
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    I also love the climate control. The dual-zone has also come in handy on a few occasions.
  • funkyaccordfunkyaccord Member Posts: 1
    I have the problem with the vibrations at high speeds.

    also sometimes if my car is parked and I have not put the parking brake on. and then i move it out of park. It makes a decent thud noise?
    the dealership claims its normal?

    Is that so?
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    I hear a little clunk when shifting from drive to park sometimes, but not the other way around.

    I grew up with manual transmissions in hilly areas, so I learned to always set my parking brake (for some reason we called it the "emergency brake") when parked. That may help.

    If the shift noise is very loud or delayed, you may want to get a second opinion from a different dealer.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    I think I know what you mean about the thud. It would help to use this sequence when you park. Put the car in Neutral, set the parking brake and then put the car in Park. I think that you'll find less of a thud when you start and that it's easier to move out of Park.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    yep, the THUD or SLAM into gear from Park is "normal". or so the dealer says.
  • xxonxxon Member Posts: 13
    Can anyone tell me whether or not you can get side curtain air bags on the 2005 Accord LX? They are currently not an option for the 2004 model year.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    All reports indicate the 05 Accord will have side curtains on all trims including the DX and LX.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well, of course it'll make a "thud" or "clunk" when you do that. any car will do the same thing.

    By not using the parking brake the entire weight of the car is being held by the parking pawl in the transmission. It'll hold the car but there is trememdous pressure on it and, of course, it's going to clunk when that pressure is released.

    Use your parking brake. That's what it's there for!
  • xxonxxon Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the info...
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    I disagree with your assertion that any car will make the thunking noise.

    My 94 Toyota Camry didn't thunk when shifting, nor does my husband's Lexus ES300 (and he's very bad and never uses his parking brake).

    Though I don't consider the noise problematic with my 03 Accord, it's definitely more noticeable than with other cars I've driven.

    I do agree, though, that using the parking brake reduces the noise and strain.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    the parking brake definitely helped the THUD on my other cars. it makes almost zero difference in the Accord from my experience. i notice that when i start the car in the morning, if i let it sit for 10 seconds or so it doesn't THUD as bad into Reverse as it does if you just do start and go as most modern FI cars prefer...

    oddly enough though, the THUD just doesn't bug me like it used to.

    car is still in the shop for brakes as i type this - no word yet from the dealer.
  • bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    Isellhonda was correct! He was talking about cars parked with a load on them, like when they are on a decline or incline. You should always use your parking brake regardless of where you park even if you have an automatic. It take stress off the transmission and helps prevent issues with the emergency brake system.
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    I believe I agreed with isellhondas about the use of the parking brake. In fact, I don't think anyone is disagreeing with that.

    My point was that the Accord seems to shift in and out of park a bit louder than some other cars I've owned or driven.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    I have driven the 3rd, the 4th and the latest generation.
    The 4th makes the worst thunk. For the latest generation (V6) I hardly hear any thunk when shifting from P to D.
    Applying the parking brake reduces the strain and lets you easily shift out of P when parking on an incline, but you still can hear the thunk.
  • nycanyca Member Posts: 232
    for sure, when the car is parked on an incline - not setting the parking brake, the tranny comes out of P with a very bad sound. set that parking brake on an incline.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    got the car back. they resurfaced the rotors on the front AND back.

    third resurfacing on the rotors in 7 months and less than 10k miles.

    looking into lemon laws and/or arbitration i think.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    the car was parked on an incline. Of course, the greater the incline, the greater the strain on the parking pawl. Not a good thing to do since I know of at least one person, a friend of mine who managed to snap the pawl off completely.

    After that, he had no Park and that was on a Chevy. Hardly the car's fault.

    I guarantee you, I can make ANY car clunk when I take it out of park on an incline. Some may clunk harder than others.

    Again, just use your handbrake, that's why it's there.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    i have never heard "handbrake". makes sense i guess. always called it "emergency brake".

    i also laugh when i hear people say "blinker" instead of "signal".

    nothing beats my Aunt from SE Missouri - its "roll down that winder!" she means "window" haha.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    There are certain terms that are no longer used in the automotive industry due to product safety connotations. One is "emergency brake" which is now called the parking brake. The term emergency brake came into being back in the old days when cars had single circuit hydraulic systems. If you broke a brake line or the master cylinder failed, you had no brakes. Since the mid-60s, all vehicles sold in the US have had a split system so if there's a failure, you still have half your brakes.

    The other term no longer used is "firewall." It's the dashpanel now.
  • jebinc1jebinc1 Member Posts: 198
    I had exactly the same experience at Renton Honda.
  • amstelamstel Member Posts: 8
    Dear everyone:

    I am thinking to install a Viper 350HV security system into my 2004 Accord LX. Anyone knows if this alarm could cause any problem? I certainly don't want it to affect the Accord's own keyless entry function or Immobilizer system. Is there any this compatibility problem?

    Thanks a lot.
  • nycanyca Member Posts: 232
    any car clunk? no. German cars don't seem to have a problem (personal experience with a Passat and a 3 series). But that aside, its not really a problem so long as the owner knows the proper procedure.
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