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Comments
You might notice this for yourself when you see a message in all caps? It's a similar thing.
I'm sure no offense was intended and that it was meant to be a helpful suggestion.
thanks in advance.
One: The 3M film is priceless. I've had my last half dozen cars protected, including my current two. It's all about the installer, so get a good one. Mine has developed into a good friend and comes to his clients and covers all concerns, damage, etc....in full with no questions. Even now, I have to have a new nose put on due to some damage from a shopping cart I hit and he will cover it for me as a good customer. Expect $385 to $450 for what you have requested.
Undercoating...I've never done it and never will. Thing of the past. Honestly, I've lived in Cleveland and never had a car rust. Just take good care of it as you probably will and you'll be fine. It can actually be more harmfull than helpful IMO.
Dynamat...great idea. Costly stuff, but I've done all four doors, the entire roof and trunk (Sub in trunk). So much quieter inside. Makes the G35 I drove recently sound noisy...really. I did it as part of a sound system upgrade, but mainly as part of the squeak and popping noise fixes I had to do on my Accord. They don't build them like they used to. Especially the headliners. Good idea and again, both are priceless in the end. Let me know if you have more Q's.
I have some installers lined up for the 3M and Dynamat. I'll be asking them about some of things you mentioned.
Thanks again.
Nature of Defect:
1. POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Recall Number: 04V176000
Dates Manufactured: JUN 2002 to SEP 2003
Number of Vehicles Affected: 1099796
Date Owners Notified On: MAY 2004
Vehicle: 2003 Honda Accord
Defect Description:
ON SOME MINI VANS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES, CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN RESULT IN HEAT BUILD-UP BETWEEN THE COUNTERSHAFT AND SECONDARY SHAFT SECOND GEARS IN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, EVENTUALLY LEADING TO GEAR TOOTH CHIPPING OR GEAR BREAKAGE.
Consequence of Defect:
GEAR FAILURE COULD RESULT IN TRANSMISSION LOCKUP, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Corrective Action:
ON VEHICLES WITH 15,000 MILES OR LESS, THE DEALER WILL UPDATE THE TRANSMISSION WITH A SIMPLE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE TO INCREASE LUBRICATION TO THE SECOND GEAR. ON VEHICLES WITH MORE THAN 15,000 MILES, THE DEALER WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSION TO IDENTIFY GEARS THAT HAVE ALREADY EXPERIENCED DISCOLORATION DUE TO OVERHEATING. IF DISCOLORATION EXISTS, THE TRANSMISSION WILL BE REPLACED IF DISCOLORATION IS NOT PRESENT, THE DEALER WILL PERFORM THE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON MAY 12, 2004. OWNER NOTIFICATION FOR THE ACCORD AND ACURA MODELS WILL BEGIN ON JULY 26, 2004. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
I'm just wondering if people who bought accord sedans recently, and have later build dates are still having rattling problems. I went to a dealer, and played around with an accord ex-v6 with a build date of 7/04, and it seemed pretty solid.
Has honda addressed some of the accord's problems with rattles later on in the '04 life cycle? I'm also curious to know if anyone has bought a recently built (within Feb and July) '04 that still has a transmission whine
I purchased an 04 ex sedan I4, 5MT with a build date in July. So far the only noise is an occasional buzz from the sunglass holder when driving over rough pavement. Of course the car only has 600 miles so there is lots of time to develop noises, hopefully not!
The only nit is tape residue on the drivers side fwd end of the sunroof shade which came from trim tape on top of the ceiling liner at the sunroof opening.
My daily drive is about 27 miles one way to work and back. I tend to get between 24-30 miles per gallon, depending how heavy my foot was for that tank...
I had taken it for a drive from Louisiana to Florida (about 650 miles or so from Baton Rouge to Orlando) a couple weeks ago. It took 2 tankfulls on the drive to Orlando and averaged 34 miles per gallon. I was maintaining 70 MPH when I could, but traffic got heavy in a few spots. Right in line with the EPA estimates. I used up one tankful for the week I was in and around Orlando and that tanks averaged 22 miles per gallon (damn that heavy foot again...).
I was amazed on the return trip though. Traffic was much lighter coming back, so I was maintaining the speed limit much better. Again, it took 2 tankfulls. The first tank averaged 38.4 MPG. The second tank averaged 35.3 MPG.
This entire trip was with the AC on, 2 adults, 1 child, and some luggage and stuff in the trunk. I'm curious as what the numbers would be with the AC off. I was using 87 octane gas the entire trip.
On rattles, I did have one in the headliner near the sunglass holder that seemed to have disappeared. Might be temperature related. There are also some very minor rattles in the A and B pillars, but they come and go, and I usually have the music drowning those out. No new ones seemed to have developed in the first year of use.
I got the I4, not because I wouldn't use the power of the V6, but BECAUSE I WOULD use the power of the V6. It's hard enough not getting in trouble with the I4 as it is...
Only option I got was an MP3-CD player. The sound system is very good. Could use a little more "omph" in the deep bass region, but still surpasses acceptable. I know some people that have worse (much worse) sounding home systems...
The exterior has grown on me. It's not super flashy, but it's not exactly mundane. It doesn't look too tall, or too long. I didn't get the car for it's looks anyways (which is one reason why I'm saving up for a Mazda RX-8 anyways...
I do love the "bumpy" ride as a driver. It seems to have smoothed out over 30k miles, but some people say it's still "harsh" going over bumps. I don't think it's bumpy at all, but it's not floaty and bouncy. It feels just right.
Visibility is a minor issue. The A-pillars can block your view while turning, and I am still not used to figuring out how much space I have when backing up. Blind spots aren't a problem with proper mirror adjustments though.
I love the passenger room you have in all of the seats. Even when transporting 5 people, the 3 in the back aren't crammed in there. The trunk is on the smallish side, but the opening is pretty big. And the center console pass-through is a nice touch to make up for the lack of a split rear seat. And I like all of the little storage areas that are available all around the passenger cabin.
In summary, I really like the car. I can easily see it being a faithful and reliable car for many years to come, much like my 94 Accord LX was that I traded in for this one. And I didn't even mention the stuff like the feel of the seats and steering wheel, the dashboard layout, the feel you get when the tachometer surpasses 3000 rpms...
Has anyone had experience with a Honda Care extended warranty? If so, how does this price compare to what you were offered? Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
If you don't mind my asking, where in the Seattle area are you having the Dynamat installed and how much will it cost?
I have a TSX, similarly sized to the Accord, and would be interested in having the Dynamat installed to quiet things down a bit.
Thanks,
Johnny
http://www.curryhondacare.com/pricing.cfm
I have never heard about getting back the entire price if you do not use it....
Be sure to use the quotes to look for the exact phrase.
never thought i'd say this, but glad i have the 03/04 look over the 05
However, I agree with you Justin, the new taillights haven't changed any and they don't really look any better either.
Those taillights are the same as the ones found on the Accord Hybrid. I knew when we saw pics of the Accord hybrid that the other Accords would soon get the same taillights.
Overall, I still would take the Accord over my no count Altima anyday now...
i definitely like my EX-V6 rims better than the 05's. and the all red tail-lights is not good look on a foreign car. why is Honda doing that? i notice Audi did too. years ago, all red was the sign of a Big Three car, and amber signals meant higher dollar foreign it seemed....
I checked into some of the car stereo shops, including Magnolia Hifi and Car Toys. I talked with Magnolia and they claim to have good experience doing this kind of installation. I suspect that most car stereo shops and after market auto accessory shops would have some experience with this type of install. Before jumping into this though, I want customer references with their feedback to see how the process worked.
I did not get very specific about price but a figure between 400 and 700 comes to mind, it depends on how much area to cover and how extensive.
From what I have read, one of the main culprits for road noise, comes from the doors and requires dynamat on the inside surface of the outer sheet metal and on the inner sheetmetal (with all the cutouts).
Hope this helps!
4runnering
Anyway I Washed it yesterday only to find a small bump (not a dent) in the hood about one third back on drivers side. You have to get the right reflection to notice and cannot feel it with a finger.
I took it into the dealer for resolution and their response was, if a dent restore doesn't work, they would have the hood redone by their bodyshop and repainted.
Question I have, is a repainted hood going to match the rest of the body?
The other concern, I planned on installing a 3M plastic shield on the fwd part of the hood to protect against rock chips. Is there a minimum length of time with this new paint before the 3M product can be adherred it.
If the paint has to wait to cure completely, I'll probably let it go, since protecting against road debris and rock chips rates higher.
Any thoughts, Thanks in advance
From other postings, you better get this in writing, signed by a manager. There have been several stories about this being something the salesman/FI person says, without anything in writing, and no money ever coming back....
Does anyone know if the fluid will be drained as part of the recall?
I'm having tranny nightmares again...my last car (Ford Contour) died at 80k. Ugh...Honda what's going on?
For the record, the maintenance schedule doesn't call for a transmission fluid change until 60000 miles, even under the severe schedule. Of course, if you want to do it more often, that's certainly your prerogative...
If you decide to change it early, I'd suggest waiting until they performed the warranty mod, and then have them change it afterward. Since you'd be changing it early anyway, a few miles over the 30000 mark shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks.....
People that I have spoken to, in general, have not driven the cars so their opinions are of very little value. The knee-jerk reaction is simply to say "get the 6 - you'll like the power." But a lot of info I have read says the 4 has sufficient power.
I am going to be trading in my 03 Highlander with the V6. One of the main reasons is that I am not happy with the MPG. It gets 18-20 city and maybe 22-23 hiway. That is not inconsistent with the numbers on the sticker. I just have decided I want more MPG and hope to save $$ on my insurance as well.
I live in town and do most of my driving stop and go, but the roads here are rarely jammed up to the point of being worthy of a "traffic jam."
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
What is TC?
The Accord had plenty of oomph when I needed it. I probably would've loved the V6 but so would our local law enforcement officers due to all of the additional revenue they would have generated.
One test of your current vehicle, the Toyota Highlander V6 AWD, rated its 0 to 60 mph time at about 8.5 seconds. "Consumer Reports" rated the 4 cyl. Honda Accord at 9.0 seconds 0 to 60 with AT.
The Accord is therefore likely to feel very close to the Highlander in acceleration. The V6 Accord went from 0 to 60 mph in about 7.5 seconds which is very fast and most people don't need a car that moves THAT quickly.
The 4 cyl. Accord has a slightly better service record, gets about 10% better gas mileage--22.6 MPG in the city and 33.2 on the highway when I last tested mileage when the car had fewer than 2000 miles on it.
The 4 cyl. Accord might handle a bit better because there's a more favorable weight balance--front wheel drive cars are already nose-heavy, so adding a larger engine adds even more pounds to the front end.
I have no experience driving a V6 Accord because I wanted a 4 cylinder car. I think my '04 EX-L 4 cyl. AT sedan has more than adequate acceleration and I'd recommend it......Richard
I drove both of them, but to be honest it is so hard to tell when you have the dealer sitting there and you are checking out the whole car experience. I guess that means I didn't think the 4 was lacking in any way.
I will give both of them a try when I get to the dealer for what I hope is my final trip.
I have a 2003 EX-L 4 cylinder with manual transmission and it has plenty of oomph. If you enjoy a manual, go for the 4 -- in fact in the sedan, the 4 cylinder is the only way to get the manual.
If a 6 and a manual had been available in the sedan, I would have gone for that! (I know it is available in TL but lots more $$)