Older Honda Accords

1…326327329331332…389

Comments

  • stacey_burkestacey_burke Member Posts: 88
    My friend had something cool last night. He brought with him a sony Ipod (I think that is the model) and on top of this little unit he had a FM modulator. We just tuned in the FM radio and listened on or 4 hour trip. Never touched it again. I put it in the little bin where the sun glasses go and never did anything until we turned it off. It was neat. I am going to look into getting one, he has many hours of mp3 music stored on it.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi everyone! I recently purchased a used 2003 Accord. While I love my new / used second vehicle, I find that the seats are a little hard on the bottom, on a long drive. It seems that they could use some more padding, you know, where it counts most! I am going to try a small soft pillow, and see if that makes a difference. Maybe Honda could re-think their seat design in the future. Americans are built different, and we want comfort. This coming weekend, I am planning a road trip. I will be able to share some information about the pillow idea when I return from this adventure. I LOVE my Accord. Best regards. Dwayne
  • hamihami Member Posts: 5
    Hello,
    I own a 1985 Honda Accord 1.8L Carb. automatic with 110,000 miles.
    While driving in the city, one moment it started running horrible and I barely made it home. A few weeks before it had a complete tune-up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor, timing, all filters, compression test 110-130, valve adjustment etc) and passed CA smog the first try. The car runs normal when cold, but when the choke opens and the engine idles down, it runs on two cylinders. When cold and idling I can pull the plug wires off at the dist. cap one at a time and each wire makes the engine rpm lower about the same. But when the choke opens it starts running horrible, I can pull the wires on cylinders 3 and 4 and it doesn't change the rpm at all. If I take either of 1 or 2 cyl. wires off the engine dies. In other words, when cold all cylinders are normal, but once it warms up and the choke opens and idles down, I can take the 3 & 4 plug wires off and it makes on change to the rpm. I've sprayed carb cleaner every where I thought an intake/carb leak might be and found none. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • tanya2tanya2 Member Posts: 29
    Have you taken a compression test on the engine, since this condition developed? It could be a head gasket problem, or an intake manifold leak. When the choke comes off, the mixture goes lean. With an intake manifold leak, it will go leaner. Also check the condition of the PCV valve, and all hoses associated with the system. Check all vacuum hoses. Power brakes units can cause a vacuum leak in the engine. Check the carb mountings for leaks. A compression test will tell you if you have a head gasket problem, a piston ring problem or a valve seating problem. Check the EGR valve for proper operation. Check the condition of the distributor cap, for the cylinders in question. Look for cracks and / or carbon tracking. On some engines, a problem with the PVC system, can cause crankcase fumes to find their way into the distributor, and cause carbon tracking on the inside of the cap. Tanya
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    You may want to check for a vacuum leak!! I have a 88 Accord that had similar problems after I changed the timing belt. When warm, pulling some of the plug wires off when running did nothing. Compression was even across all cylinders, things were in time, all wires had good spark. Turns out that I knocked off a vacuum hose. I think the reason that some plug wires don't seem to make a difference is because the location of where the engine gets it's vacuum is in the intake manifold near the passageways for those cylinders. Too much vacuum leans out those cylinders and you basically don't get any gas to them. I used a propane torch (OUTSIDE on a calm day) and with it unlit, went slowly went around the engine and hoses. I hit a point where the rpms jumped up and the engine ran smoother. Sure enough, just under a bracket was a vacuum hose that was pulled off. Pushed it back on, and everything was back to normal.

    Good Luck
  • joniemilyjoniemily Member Posts: 3
    I was in an accident with my 2004 Honda Accord EX. The insurance company insisted on having the car fixed. The biggest problem I have now it the noise. I remember my ride as being quiet. Now I have quite a lot of road and wind noise. the autobody shop does not know the cause of the problem. The insurance company says there is no problem! I am bringing the car to a Honda dealer for a diagnostic next week. Any ideas as to the problem? Are the service sections of dealers able to distinguish the way a Honda should sound and when one does not sound right?
  • hamihami Member Posts: 5
    A compression test was taken (during tune-up) before and after the problem. Both tests were the same. It looks like I have to do a thorough check for some kind of a vacuum or intake leak. I'll also check the PVC & EGR valves. Hopefully in the next several days I can get to it.

    Thanks for all the advice!
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    Just a thought, I'd look at the seams around the doors. I don't know where you were hit but sometimes the door hinges have to be adjusted to make sure things are closing completely. Also check the rubber seal. By all means, you should insist on being satisfied.
  • hamihami Member Posts: 5
    I'm definitely going to go over the engine for vacuum and intake leaks with a fine tooth comb. The unlit propane torch method sounds good.
    Thank you!
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    Go here--for possible '06 Accord rear end:

    http://www.vtec.net/news/news-item?news_item_id=347007

    ........Richard
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    Thanks, looks like the Mitsubishi Gallant to me though.
  • rfrfrfrf Member Posts: 31
    What are the rubber flaps in font of each front wheel for?
  • zitchzitch Member Posts: 55
    Let me point you to xcel's post earlier in this topic here: xcel, "Honda Accord Sedan" #16667, 25 Jan 2005 7:57 pm

    For a summary, they are air dams. For more detail, check out the post.
  • fju2112fju2112 Member Posts: 3
    Use Mother's Leather Cleaner first (it's a spray; spray directly on seats to a 2' x 2' area and wipe well w/ a terry cloth), then use Mother's Leather Conditioner (squeeze some of the cream conditioner onto cloth, let it sink in, then wipe down one panel of leather at a time (use seams as a guide). It keeps the leather very soft & supple for up to 6 months; I do the driver's seat more often since it's used more and I don't have too many passengers during the week. I would not ever use Leather Wipes again...they dried out the leather in my car instead of making the leather seem softer. It takes some elbow grease to do the entire car, but it's only twice per year and worth it.
  • fju2112fju2112 Member Posts: 3
    jonie, there's a TSB regarding window noise on that car; I had mine fixed. Could be you never noticed but are now paying closer attention since the car was in an accident; this is exactly what happened to me. I would find the TSB's online (at hondanews.com or look for them on google.com; they're also posted on vtec.net). Then go to the dealer with the TSB paperwork and ask if they can fix the window noise.

    There shouldn't be any additional road noise unless you're now using different tires or only replaced, say, 2 instead of 4, and the car is running slightly uneven.
  • fju2112fju2112 Member Posts: 3
    for those who don't lease, PIE (they have a yahoo store) makes an adapter for a wide variety of aftermarket players like ipods to be hooked up (the part's name contains "PIE-HON" and then a number). there are other solutions out there too. Just can't mess w/ the dash much, obviously, due to the 6-disc player and the funky design.
  • b71442b71442 Member Posts: 1
    WE BOUGHT 05 NEW ACCORD EX-L 4 DOOR, MY WIFE WAS DRIVING THE CAR AND RAN OVER POT HOLE,........... SHE HEARD A LOUD NOISE . WHEN SHE GOT HOME I LOOK THE CAR OVER . THERE WAS NO DAMAGE TO THE TIRE OR WHEEL . SO I LOOK UNDER THE CAR. THERE WAS NO DAMAGE OR SCRAPE MARKS UNDER THE CAR. PUT WHEN I WALK AWAY FROM THE CAR I NOTICED THAT THE " ROOF WAS BUCKLE " ON THE LEFT FRONT SIDE OF THE SUNROOF AND THE RIGHT REAR SIDE OF THE SUNROOF???????????? CALL HONDA DEALER . WENT TO HONDA DEALER THAY CHECK IT OUT AND HAD A HONDA REP. LOOK AT THE DENTS IN THE ROOF HE SAID HE WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF THE CAR HAD BEEN FIX AT THE FACTORY, AND WOULD LET ME KNOW.............! I SAID TO THE FACTORY REP.LETS GO TO THE SHOW ROOM AND LOOK AT SOME ACCORDS THERE, 4 DOORS WITH SUNROOFS. EVERY ACCORD 4DR. WE LOOK AT HAD SOME BUCKLING AROUND THE SUNROOFS EVEN NEW ONES ON THE NEW CAR SALES LOT ..................THEN HE SAID MAYBE THE DAMAGE WAS ALREADY THERE ON YOUR CAR.......................... AFTER THAT HE SAID I WILL HAVE THE DENT WIZARD GUY TRY AND FIX THEM ...........................I SAID I DON'T WANT A NEW CAR TO BE PAINTED ON . I SAID THIS CAR ONLY HAS 2800 MILES ON IT. I'M CONCERNED ABOUT THE SAFTY AND STRUCTURE OF THIS VEHICLE...........................ANY SUGGESTIONS.................................?
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    Yes, I suggest you type without using all capital letters......Richard
  • 4genaccord4genaccord Member Posts: 1
    i going to change my tranny fron auto to 5 spd. i need to know everything i would need to do it parts wise if anybodys done it please reply...
  • icedoggicedogg Member Posts: 3
    I am very close to taking the final steps to purchase a 2005 Accord LX or EX 4-dr sedan. I am losing sleep on the I-4 vs V-6. I would love to hear from others about their "real world" experience with this config...

    I know the Honda 2.4 I-4 is a sweet engine for a 4-banger, and if I were going to take the manual transmission I would have no problem with this. But, and this is where I'm losing sleep, because the majority of my life is spent commuting in Atlanta traffic (jams) I want the automatic tranny.

    So, if I couple the 2.4 I-4 with the AT, will I regret it? I can afford the V-6 upgrade, but I seriously do not want to spend the extra $3K if I don't need to (Heck, that's my down payment on a motorcycle...).

    This accord will be used mostly for commuting, but will certainly see the occasional family (wife and 3 kids) weekend trip up the North Georgia mountains. I don't expect to be racing any teenagers or anything.

    All opinions are welcome!
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    If you are going to commute in traffic jams, I say avoid the V6. The fuel gauge drops fast in city driving.
    Also if you're going with the I-4/AT, get the 7/100K extended warranty. Some people think it's a waste of money. I don't. I sleep better at night.
  • ken972ken972 Member Posts: 162
    There has been extensive V6 VS. 4cyl conversations in the past. If you do a search on the topic off to the left here..you should be able to find them.
  • icedoggicedogg Member Posts: 3
    Thanks guys... I will try some additional i4 vs v6 searches within these forums. However, any additional (recent experiences that may not be in those threads) would still be appreciated.
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    Just a few thoughts:
    The price difference between the 4 and V6 is probably $2,000 or less, not $3,000. But it's likely to be a waste of money in your case because the 4 is responsive and more than adequately powered with the A/T--it's faster than it's safe to go on any city street and is plenty quick on the highway, too.

    The 4 is a good road car in my experience--mine is the '04 EX-L 4 cyl sedan with A/T. It'll cruise silently at 70 to 80 MPH and get over 33 MPG doing it.

    Both engines are excellent and you won't make a mistake with either one, but the 4 makes more sense for the type of driving you'll be doing..........Richard
  • 3dd3dd Member Posts: 20
    There is the LX V-6 trim if you don't care about leather.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I have an '04 Accord EX-L with the I-4 engine. I have more then enough horsepower for any situation I have run across. I did go from an '88 Accord with a 98hp engine, so the '04 feels like a rocket. I also didn't like the extra $2000 needed for the V6, and since I keep them forever, I like the fact that the I-4 has a timing chain, and not a belt as in the V6. No $$ every 80,000-100,000 for a new belt. I also got turned off with the older Accord/Acura/Sterling V6 engines, they seem to have more problems then the 4 cyl engines of the same age. 2 friends had '90-'96 Accords and Sterlings, and both V6's had noisy lifters after 60,000 miles.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    How bad is the buckling? I'll have to look at my '04 with a sunroof to see if there is anything. I have seen on other makes of cars where around areas that sheet metal makes a sharp bend, you may see some rippling in it. I suppose when making such a sharp bend as in around the sun roof, you might get a little imperfection. A Dent Wizard type of repair is usually done without any type of painting. They get in from behind and gently pry the dent out. This saves from repainting the area. I doubt that there would ever be any type of structual problem with your car. An addition of a sunroof is carefully planned, and any reinforcements necessary are built in to the design. Remember, this car has very high marks for side and frontal impacts. I would think that a roll over type of accident is also tested by the manufacturer.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The search features on the left are outstanding. Often overlooked, though, is the Search This Discussion feature on the page bars at the top and the bottom of the page. It will search all the text of the messages within one discussion which can be useful when you know where you want to look and/or what you are searching for is a common term throughout the Forums.

    Just wanted to metion this for those who may have missed it.
  • elf475elf475 Member Posts: 2
    Cylinder 1 and 3 are 90 and 80 lbs respectively while 2 and 4 are 145 and 123 respectively. One mechanic told me that means my engine is in the crapper, and another told me it doesn't matter until compression gets to like 10.

    On top of that it's leaking oil faster than I can pour it in (almost), and slowly leaking power steering fluid. :sick:

    I've been told so many things and I don't know what to believe...I've been told I have a clogged PVC valve, that my cat is clogged, that I have a cracked ring.

    Any ideas? :confuse:
  • icedoggicedogg Member Posts: 3
    richards38 -- "Just a few thoughts: The price difference between the 4 and V6 is probably $2,000 or less, not $3,000. "

    My pricing is from Carsdirect.com.

    Accord LX 2.4 : $17,765 + $719 (A/T) = $18,484.
    Accord LX 3.0 : $21,317

    Difference : $2,833 + tax ($198.31) = $3031.31.
  • mthackermthacker Member Posts: 1
    Did you have to remove the glove box? If so, how did you do it?
  • mloosemloose Member Posts: 6
    :confuse: Hey everyone. I have a 2004 Accord Coupe EX, 4cyl, AT. Yes, I know this is a sedan board, but the coupe board has way less people, and they're the same engine. It only have 6000 miles on it, and I bought it brand new less than a year ago. The problem is, my gas mileage is TERRIBLE. I mean, on the window it advertises 26/34, which I know is a farce. But I'm getting about 24mpg in ALL HIGHWAY driving!!!! When on the highway I typically travel between 75-80. Is this on par with everyone else?
  • elf475elf475 Member Posts: 2
    No that is far from "on par". On highway I average 35mpg in my 88 accord, and 30mpg in city. On top of that I deliver pizzas in the city and leave my car idling all night and STILL average to about 29-30mpg
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    This is the link for the 2003-2004 Honda CD Player that stated it was MP3 compatible (which means it will play a CD with audio files in MP3 format). Normally, MP3s would be converted to WAV format which leaves you with huge music files but allows just about any cd player to play it. MP3 files offer you a file that is about 10X as small with little appreciable musical loss (depending on the bitrate of the MP3 of course).
    http://www.handa-accessories.com/accelect03.html

    I don't have an '03 or '04 Accord so perhaps this is not the installed player. But considering what was said about the player on the linked site, this seems to be the player offered from the factory, or at least as an upgrade.

    As for the FM transmitters, like the "iTrip" for the iPod...they are pretty good. I personally don't like the iTrip....it's range is not very good and it sometimes just scans for a station to broadcast on without actually ever finding one. I have friends that have it and got to mess around with it a bit. For where I live (NYC area), something like the Belkin Tunecast with selectable broadcast stations is a much more reliable and economical alternative. Also, the Tunecast can be opened up and altered quite easily so that it's range is more than doubled.

    Hope that helps some.

    PS - the previous poster is also correct, many CD recording programs default to leaving burned CDs open which means that almost no CD players will play them. Make sure you change this setting to "close session". Leaving it open means you will be able to burn more onto it later (assuming it isnt filled) in another session but most cd players will not be able to do anything with it until it is closed.
  • chief232chief232 Member Posts: 1
    Please tell me why the dealer service would tell me that my 2000 Accord Sedan needs an induction service. What is it? How much does it cost? Thanks.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    The 04 Accord EX has a in-dash 6 disc changer. The DX/LX models come with single CD players (I think) so I don't know what they have.

    If you look at the specs for the 6 disk in-dash changer, nothing is mentioned that it plays MP3s. I also have checked my owners manual, it does say that you can use CD-Rs but not CD-RWs. Nothing was mentioned about MP3s.

    I have also verified that my CD session was closed. I also made sure that I copied the MP3s to the CD in data file form, and not converted audio tracks. For a CD player to play MP3s, it must have MP3 decoding built in.

    I would think that if the changer could play MP3s, it would be something they would mention as a selling point, and probably would also have a "MP3 compatible" marking on it's front.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    From the link I posted, it doesn't look like the 6 disc changer can play MP3 discs. But it seems like some of the single CD players can. I'm not disputing what you say, as I said...I don't have the car.

    And yes, obviously to play MP3 cds the player must have an MP3 decoder onboard, which amounts to probably another 4 cents of investment in production.

    But it does sound like there is the possibility of some people with single cd players being able to play MP3 cds, we shall see.

    Anyway, having a 6 disc in dash cd player is not very far away from having a MP3 compatible cd player. You can still write your own cdrs and have six of them to use on random play. This pretty much makes up for the fact that you cant play MP3 cds.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    mloose:

    You will find that your mileage is significantly better at the speed limit, rather than at 75 to 80 mph. It's a matter of pure physics.

    I average in the low to mid 30's in all flat steady-speed highway driving with my 2004 V6 AT Coupe. Hilly highway driving, with varying speeds, will lower those numbers.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Hoping that I did something wrong with the MP3 CD I burned, I tried another one. I used Roxio, selected MP3 CD Project, and finalized the CD. As before it does not play in the 6 disc changer. BUMMER!!. It did work in my portable CD player that is MP3 compatible.

    Yes, the 6 disc changer makes the need for a MP3 player less, and the XM radio also helps, although when my 90 free days are up, I'm not sure if I will sign up for it. I guess MP3 is just one of the options that you wonder why they don't have it since the cost is small. It's sort of like why they don't have the tire pressure monitor option. Any car with anti-lock brakes can monitor if a tire is going soft, so why not take advantage of it??

    Oh well, by the time I buy my next new car, (10 years hopefully) CD players will probably have been replaced with the next technology.
  • bklynguybklynguy Member Posts: 275
    Yes, you can write 6 CD-Rs and have about 120 of your favorite songs in your changer. What about people with a single-CD player ? It would be great if they could fit 120-150 songs on one CD. The current MP3 accessory solution is incomplete without ID3 tag support (and adds to the cost with parts/labor). Hyundai will make MP3 compatibility with the 06 Sonata's CD player/changer standard.

    I hope Honda does the same with the refreshed 06 Accord (and maybe even the illusive AUX input).
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    With a clogged cat, your engine will shut down in a minute or two with all the back pressure. Not the PVC valve either. Is there smoke coming out of the tail pipe?
    If yes, two of the cyclinders have a cracked ring. That's why you think it's leaking oil faster than I can pour it in.
    At 90, 80, 145, 123, I wouldn't worry about it as long as you can fill the oil in.
    I just run until it quits.
  • jjacurajjacura Member Posts: 807
    Pat...I returned from a 2 week trip and tried to make a post on the 2005 RL forum.....that forum seems to be shut down....please let me know if this is the case. Thanks. JJ :mad:
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    It would be nice to have MP3 support on single cd players, and it seems that it was indeed offered at least as an option according to the sites I've seen. But really, the easist solution would be to simply offer a minijack input on the front of every car radio sold standard. Most people who would be inclined to use an MP3 comptible CD player already have an iPod or some portable MP3 player. A minijack in on the front would offer these people an easy connection to seamlessly bring their music with them in the car. And they could simply unplug after the ride is over and continue to enjoy their music. Until stock decks offer extensive buffering of cd play, car MP3 cd player will still suffer from skipping problems. Not to mention other drawbacks that flash based and hard drive based MP3 players do not have.

    Personally, I'd rather have a minijack input than a MP3 compatible CD player. Then you can throw in a MP3 player, tape deck, or whatever you want and blast it through the car's audio system.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    jjacura:

    Please correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't you be better off posting an Acura question in an Acura forum, rather than a Honda Accord forum?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I think he was just looking for me - we got everything figured out. :)
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    OK, yes I could check myself, but has anyone tried to see if their full size tire fits in the well that normally holds the temporary spare? I was considering picking up a full size tire and rim from a salvage yard and not use the temporary tire.

    Thanks
  • zopizopi Member Posts: 2
    Can't decide between an 05 Accord EX V6 or 4cyl in terms of how many total miles I can expect over the cars life. I currently drive a 1998 Accord 4cyl with 280k miles without anything more than routine maintenance. I have heard that some V6 engines can create more heat in the engine compartment, thus causing early seal failures and other problems. Can I expect similar lifespans from either engine?
  • anythngbutgmanythngbutgm Member Posts: 4,277
    Nice!!!

    About the V6, I know of a few people who are over the 150k mark and I haven't heard of any seal failures on those yet.
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    Both 4 and V6 are reliable and long-lasting, but the 4 has a permanent timing chain instead of a timing belt that must be changed--the V6 still has belt. So you'll have one less maintenance item to be concerned about as you approach 100,000 miles.

    Test drive Accords with both engines--the V6 is faster, of course, but the 4 is very quick and smooth. Gas mileage is about a mile or 2 per gallon less with the V6 and both use regular gas, so fuel economy isn't much of an issue.

    I think the 4 is more than fast enough and see no need for the V6, but you should make that decision on your own considering how and where you drive. With respect to acceleration, I think the 1998-2002 Accord 4 cyl., A/T had a 0 to 60 time of about 10.5 seconds, and the current Accord 4 cyl goes from 0 to 60 in 9.0 seconds. So the new 4 should feel much quicker than your '98...........Richard
  • stacey_burkestacey_burke Member Posts: 88
    I have read about the timing chain vs belt before. I have only one thing. When I replaced my Belt on my last honda, They told me to replace the water pump - almost no extra work just removing some bolts. So my point would be that you will have to replace the water pump at some point and that will cost about the same as putting on a belt and pump. So the cost is not much difference in the chain and belt.... The water pump might make it to 125000 miles but you have already replaced it when you changed the belt... Not much difference.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.