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Comments
Honda seems to use supply and demand as an excuse because six months later, their lots are filled with the once scarce model. What is their reasoning behind all of this? It just makes customers that bought the model early mad!
I am extremely enjoying the 99 EX-L 5-speed that I purchased last week. I would like to know what car wax people have found to work the best with their car, especially on dark paint(Emerald or black). Also, what about conditioner for your leather seats? Any info would be appreciated....
Around June I was considering purchasing an Accord 5 speed EX 4 c/w leather.
As I was price shopping, EVERYONE within this group was MOST helpful.. especially "Canadiancl".
The price I was quoted was $24,909.78 Canadian plus freight (around $800.00)/ taxe(s).
I was advised by all it was an EXCELLENT price.
Agreed it was.
June 22..... drove away in a brand new Black Accord Sedan with "Gold Package" for an "Out The Door / On The Road" price of $29,850.00
Once again, thank you for ALL the advice !
Here are a few observations... @ 2,700 KM's:
- Great ride
- Good gas mileage (average 32 MPG combined city/Hwy)
- Good handling
- Good workmanship
- Road noise ....... better than most
- No noticeable Sun Roof squeaks yet
- Minor thump upon shut-off
- minor rattling from the rear left seat
- average power (yes even though it's a manual)
- sluggish performance from 1st to 2nd / rear gear (am trying mid-grade gas and have noticed some improvement)..... what is the brand recommended within this group?
- AC adds a HEAVY load on the 2.3 (as expected for a 4 cyl ....)
- Average AC performance etc..
Am thinking some of the performance issues may solve on their own as this is still the break-in phase.
Any similar stories?
Comments are more than welcome.
Over-all .... pleased !!
Robert.
P.S. Very hard to wash and maintain this Black Beauty (Dry spots.... spots, spots, etc)..... any suggestions?
One SMALL complaint...
The 6 CD player doesn't "random" the tracks between CD's only on the current CD. And when you advance it from one CD to the next, it loses the fact that random is set.
Am I being too anal about this or have others felt this way...?
Time to go shopping!
scorpio: I had a 99 EX 5-speed and found the 2.3 to be more than adequate even with the AC on and 4 adults in the car. Maybe, as you said, the engine will make more power as it breaks in.
Well, my "no haggle" dealer who was charging high prices on the 2001 and 2002 just came back with the lowest of "lowballs" on my trade-in!! After going on about what great shape it was in, how nice it looked, etc....btw, a dealer maintained '97 S90 Volvo...$11,000!!! Have already beeen offered $14.5K by an Audi dealer and $14K by Saab. Hell, even Car Max offered $13K a month ago...
Went to the other 2 local Honda dealers and verified how high their prices were. One offered a 2001 EX V6 for around $23,000 (probably can get them to go a bit lower) + tax/license. Hopefully, their trade-in offer will be better!
Guess when you found how your 'no haggle' Honda dealer was going gouge you, both on the new car and your trade-in, money started to matter more.
Local dealer advertizes 2002 EX V6 Honda Sedan at $23,554 including destination. Same thing in a 2001 was $23,123 (he doesn't have any of these). He's got good prices, but I'm still hacked they have an apparent invoice increase of $431 for the exact same car as 2001.
This is northern Oklahoma. If anyone is interested, I'll post the web site and a salesman name.
people and their black cars-- they're nuts.
Np problemo! Gonna see my Audi guy Mon to see what we can work on the A4 1.8T....he offered $14.5K a month ago but admitted it was a tad high at the time but he would stand by the figure - I should have jumped on it!...oh well.....
I think it looks much better than the sedan both front and rear. Even though the front looks "similar" to the sedan, there IS a difference in the grill/front bumper and the coupe looks better.
I noticed the passenger seat is manual on the coupe and power on the sedan. I also noticed that the coupe has titanium interior trim and the sedan has woodgrain. I didn't really care for the titanium look, but if you get the silver exterior paint, it matches somewhat and does not look too bad.
The coupe has a lower roof line that looks sexier than the sedan, but it means I could not raise the power drivers seat all the way up without my head touching the ceiling. The rear seats are also set lower to the floor than the sedan to allow for adequate rear head room, but it was liveable for 6-footers if you are not going to be back there for hours on end.
I am a little more interested in the CL and TL, but I would get the Accord before I would get a TL without navigation.
One advantage the Accord has over the TL or CL, besides price, is the fact that is is MUCH easier to upgrade the speakers and add an aftermarket amplifier for the Honda than dealing with trying to improve the sound quality of the proprietary Bose systems in the Acuras.
I went to a Toyota dealer and glanced at a 2002 Camry SE V6 with navigation. It was $35,500 because the dealer had added a $5000 set of chrome wheels to the car. Even without the wheels, it would have been $30,500 with navigation, moonroof and leather and that does not even include automatic climate control!
I am going to wait another 3 or 4 weeks to see the new 2002 Altima, then decide.
I am aware that in 13 months the totally-new and more powerful 2003 Accord with be here, but I may consider a 2 year lease on a 2002 EXV6, then look at the the new Accord, Altima and Camry again when the dust settles and all of those would be out for 1-2 years and probably selling for around invoice by then.
Have fog lights been discontinued for coupes?
5 speed 2.3? I know you mentioned NOT having power shortage, but, any other quirks?
Would you say the "Break-In" period was a little longer than usual?
What grade of gasoline have you had most succes with?
By the way ...... any advice on washing this "Black Beauty" ?? Best way to get rid of water stains?
I make a habit of hand drying after the wash, however, the last wash produced VERY bad results.... didn't do anything different.
Believe it or not, have been advised to use "DIAPERS" to avoid scratches, but have noticed they do NOT help with drying !
R.
As far as the break-in period. I took it very easy for the first 1,000 miles and to me the engine just seemed to get smoother with age. At 30,000 miles I gave it the 30,000 mile service and some Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. The spark plugs seemed to make the engine even smoother. But since 2000 and up Accords have 100,000 mile tune-up intervals I'm not sure if you want to replace the plugs before then.
95% of the time I used Plus (91 octane I think) gas. I didn't notice a difference though if I used Regular octane.
Although the sedan was gold..I traded it for a Black 01 Coupe. I bought the Coupe in October of 2000 and had it waxed after about 3 months. Believe it or not I didn't do anything special with the paint and didn't experience any swirl marks or scratches as a result of washes. My advice would be to just be careful with what you use to dry it with. I used regular towels but I made sure that they were clean and I would get it waxed by a reputable place about every 6 months or so.
And he bought an Audi A4. If he thinks it's a good car, it's probably a good car. And if they are giving a better trade-in amount....
I live in a small town and want to buy locally, which limits me a lot. No Acura, Audi, Nissan in town and don't want to drive an hour for service/warranty work.
Invoice: $17,005.20
MSRP: $18,890
plus $440 destination/handling
source: www.collegehillshonda.com
I note that this reflects an increase of nearly $300 in the invoice price over 2001, but only $100 in the MSRP.
I wonder if maybe isell or some of you other folks have some ideas as to why there is this disparity. Is Honda building a larger cushion for incentives into the invoice price? If I can't get a good deal next Spring, I may have to move down to a Protege or Civic (either of which is a nice backup plan to be sure, but I've had such a good experience w/ my Accord I have to consider it my first choice).
Oh, and if you're in the mood, anybody care to give a guess as to a trade-in value for my 92 LX 5spd Coupe? Minor body damage, small perforated rust at the usual Honda location (front edge of rear wheel well), runs perfectly, 64,000 miles. Only options are mats and flaps. Chicago area.
Thanks!
twist
Is this truly normal or can something be done about it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm (FL) in the market for the 2001 Accord
LX automatic(V4). The weird thing is that after the 2002 models arrived, some dealers
here are upping the price on the 2001s, are they crazy or what?
Anyways, what is a good rock bottom deal?
I had seen ads in the paper for about $17K
for the LX model. I guess I don't know what
strategy to employ to get that price at this
time.
Let me know what a good bargain is for this
car!
BTW, how long will the 2001s be in the market
now that the 2002s arrived? I'm interested
in brand new ones, only.
Are all Honda dealers this rude or unprofessional? Bear in mind, I have been dealing with Volvo, Saab and Audi folks - they have all been very professional, up front and offered considerably more than Honda....
Guess as a Volvo owner for the past 19 yrs I've been spoiled.....
Why not make an offer and see what happens?
P.S.
Your Volvo is worth whatever they can get at the auction and they have been pretty soft for whatever reason.
To keep the emotion out of this sort of deal, I NEVER tie the value of the car I am selling to the car I am buying. Each has its own market value, and yes, Isell, that price for a new Honda is NOT the market price in most urban markets, and I believe you know that as well as the rest of us. But this is not a matter for emotion and getting upset, or for that matter, suddenly deciding to buy another brand. Here's what you do:
New: shop all of the local dealers for the lowest price on the car you are interested in buying. Then go online and look at the various online alternative sellers. In most urban markets, an Accord sedan is a car that sells for $300-$700 over nominal invoice, leaving holdback out of it. I have never had trouble finding a car in a 100 mile radius of my house at the price I wanted to pay.
Trade: Treat the sale of your old car as a completely separate transaction. I always give the dealer who is selling me the new car a chance to bid on the trade, but often wind up selling it to someone else. I shop all of the dealers in the area who sell the brand I am trying to unload [in your case, the Volvo], and give each of them a chance to bid on the car. I also might visit some of the used car giants [we have a couple in our town] who specialize in resales, and have no new-car business. After 4-6 bids, you now know without any doubt what your car is worth, and you sell to the highest bidder. [This assumes you are not willing to sell it yourself through the paper to a retail buyer.]
All of the used car guides [Kelley, Edmunds, Black book, Wards, etc ad nauseum] are barely useful in this exercise. It helps to know going in what they say, but THEY ARE NOT GOING TO BUY YOUR CAR. ONLY THE PEOPLE WITH REAL MONEY ARE GOING TO BUY YOUR CAR, so their bids are the only ones that count.
In sum, it is not " arrogance" that you're dealing with, but an unspoken reluctance on the part of the Honda dealers in your town to take your car in trade - rather than say that, it is common in this business to simply lowball the bid. I never get discouraged by this process, because I refuse to get emotional about what my car is actually worth.
Now, if you actually WANT an Audi or Saab or Volvo to be your next new car, then of course go to it...but don't let the trade-in issue get in your way of buying a new Honda [or Toyota or Hogwart, or whatever]. One way to test the eagerness of these other guys to buy your used Volvo is to let them bid on the car independent of a new car transaction...then you will know what the car is really worth in the real world.