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Just please, please, PLEASE bring us a Type-R (or SiR in NA lingo).
A couple of things that have me concerned.
Within the last week, I have noticed when shifting into drive, from park, or reverse. There is a lag time from when the shift occurs and the time the transmission actually engages. Very different from when I first bought the car.
When taking off from a dead stop, and I attempt to accelerate, there is a noticeable pause and then the transmission kicks in violently. Don't know if violently actually is the word to describe it, but I wanted to convey the point. Anyway, if I do not allow the car to roll on it's own from stop (basically idol forward) and then accelerate, the transmission acts like it doesn't want to engage until a certain engine RPM has been reached.
When coming to a stop, the transmission acts like it is still trying to push the car forward, instead of downshifting. It is very unnerving when attempting to stop and you can still feel the car trying to push through the braking; so to speak.
All of this appears to me, that something is out of sync between the transmission and the engine timing.
Anyone else having similar problems?
Thanks
It will shift fine from Park into Reverse in my driveway, and then Reverse into Drive in the street, but if I only drive a few seconds before it comes to the first stop, I have to let it come to a COMPLETE stop and allow the idle to drop to about 800 RPM before trying to accelerate again. If I don't do this, it will shift a little hard into first gear, almost like it's still winding down from the higher gear that it was in.
However, once the car warms up a little bit after a few minutes of driving, it shifts normally. It's done this maybe three times since I bought the car last November. I think it's just the fact that the transmission, the transmission fluid, and all of the related parts need a few minutes to warm up a bit in order to work at peak efficiency, so I'm not worried about it. That's why they say to drive a little gently for a few miles during those really cold mornings.
However, if your Accord is doing this at warm and cold temperatures, I would have a dealer or good mechanic take a look at it. Perhaps there's something they can adjust...maybe the idle speed?
I've enjoyed reading this forum for the past year and thought I'd share with you my satisfaction with my 01 LX. This week my odo flipped past 60k and I've had no problems to date.
I have an auto I4 and have averaged 20+ / 30+ city/hwy with my best being 36.4 on level interstate cruising @70 with the AC off. I have only had to do routine maintenance and am still on my original tires and brake pads. It looks as if I'll get 80k out of both. I travel about 1k per week (mostly interstate) and figure to be at 100k by the end of the year. Most of my coworkers opted for SUVs and minivans, but I'm here to tell you that the Accord has ample room to allow its use as a business hauler. With its efficiency, @34.5 cents per mile reimbursement , it pays for itself (and the next one). Yes it does have a few rattles and squeaks that my '77 Accord didn't have, but i guess that's the price to pay for mass producing 400k units per year as opposed to the limited production run back then.
I'm also looking forward to the 03 model with great interest.
off.
As far as when the transmission acts up. It happens all the time. It doesn't matter what the actual air temperature is, or if the car has been warmed up or not. It also doesn't matter if the car has been idle overnight, or for any duration of time. The transmission is acting badly. i will be taking it in to the local dealership, to let them look at it. The car is still under warranty. I just hope they do not come up with some sort of lame excuse, about how/why it is performing in such a manner.
I will let everyone here know how I make out with the dealer and their response; good or bad.
Clean air cleaner element.
Replace engine oil.
Rotate tires.
Inspect front and rear brakes.
Check pads and discs for wear (thickness) and damage.
Check calipers for leaks and check tightness of mount bolts.
Check brake lining (or shoes) for cracking, glazing, wear and contamination.
Check wheel cylinders for leaks.
Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox and rack boots.
Check steering linkage for looseness.
Check fluid lines for damage and leaks.
Check condition of rack boots.
Inspect suspension components.
Check bolts for tightness.
Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.
Inspect driveshaft for cracks and check boot bands for tightness.
Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9 clicks (disc brakes) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brakes).
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). Check the master cylinder, proportioning controlvalve and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks. If needed, add transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid.
Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.
Check for damage, leaks and deterioration.
Check for proper fan operation.
Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.
Inspect fuel lines and connections. Check for leaks.
Lubricate all locks and hinges with multi-purpose grease or Honda White Lithium Grease.
We added Keyless/Alarm and aftermarket CD changer to our '00 Odyssey without trouble, though the alarm is quirky.
Now I'm considering an '02 Accord LX Sedan to replace my '92 Accord LX Coupe. Am I going to encounter problems with aftermarket systems like the new Civic seems to have, or should I expect things to go well as they have with our Odyssey?
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Question Two: I am a bit weary of seeing silver Accords, but I'd like a light color. White is starting to grow on me. Anybody have any comments on durability of white paint on current gen accord? I've heard that the paint is one of the few weak points of the current Accord.
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Question Three: Has Honda solved the rear quarterpanel rust problem on Accords? Every (and I mean every) Accord at least as old as mine I see on the street has at least a bit of rust at the rear edge of the rear wheelwell.
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Question Four: Anybody have fenderwell trim installed on their Accord? It's supposed to extend slightly from the vehicle and protect that area from dings, which would be nice.
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Thanks for your patience in reading and your helpfulness in replying. I've finally reached the "burnt out" phase of my never-ending decisionmaking process and I'm ready to just go out and buy something soon.
twist
You must live in the salt belt. I haven't seen the rust you mentioned.
Good Luck!
I'm guessing the motor is shot. Anyone have a similar problem? Any idea what this will cost to fix? Should we stick to a Honda dealer for repair?
Thanks!
http://www.vtec.net/news
Thanks for the excellent tip that you gave me about where to buy a HondaCare warranty at a reasonable price. I ended up buying the 7/100K/0 from Tracy (for my 2001 LXV6).
My 1988 Accord LX has that rear panel rust problem and so does my cousin's 1993 Accord LX Coupe. We live in NYC. However, I have not seen this problem in post 1994 Accords.
And for the folks who have no idea what we're talking about...
If you are looking for a genuine HondaCare extended service agreement (aka extended warranty) and you don't want to pay the big bucks your dealer is quoting, please be aware that you can buy a HondaCare contract from any Honda dealer.
Tracy Dalton, the Finance Manager at Alton Blakley Honda in Somerset, KY, is the lady that gave ghomaz and I good service and good prices. You can get contact info at www.altonblakley.com
She may have a different last name now...I think she got married not too long ago. ;-)
I haven't had to use my HondaCare and I hope I never will. In any case, you can save $65/yr by getting rid of AAA because the HondaCare contract includes roadside assistance. With a 7 yr contract you'll be able to pay for about half your HondaCare contract (at Tracy's prices) from not having to cut checks to AAA.
Note that Tracy has never trolled message boards or advertised HondaCare on the net. It's all word of mouth. I don't want her getting into trouble.
twist
I'm not sure if Accords built in Japan are allocated to different parts of the country or if it has something to do with the trim level (DX, LX, SE, EX, V6), but I just bought an Accord DX last November that was made in Japan. I bought it at a dealer in the Washington, DC metro area (Northern VA actually).
I can't find anything about a dealer cash incentive.
Anybody heard anything?
It would be incredible to get an Accord hundreds below invoice in the Chicago area. $17,195 w/o haggling? Unbelievable.
What a bargain.
twist
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I am the happy owner of a 1993 4 dr Accord EX, which I bought new. I am approaching 90,000 trouble free miles, and to date, have only needed regularly scheduled maintenance.
I read back 100 posts or so but I'm not brave enough to go back further. I'd like to ask if anyone here knows a good shop in the Seattle area for maintenance work. When I lived in Southern California, I used to take my Accord (and two CRX Si's prior to it) to Jackson Racing and received great service there.
Now, I'm looking at a 90,000 service, to include a new timing belt and want to make sure I get good service at a fair price. Also, my transmission slips ever so slightly when accelerating at freeway speeds, and want to get that checked out.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm rapidly approaching my 30K service schedule for my 2000 Accord. Up until now I have used a small local shop to do my oil changes and servicing. Is it more advisable to go to a dealer for the 30K esp. as I'm approaching the 36K warranty deadline.
Thanks for sharing your opinions.
Paul
PS - Can anyone recommend a dealer for this in West Houston??
Any one knows the actual wattage?
Thanks.
Why doesn't Honda offer this feature? Is this feature available after market to be added to the factory security and locks?
BTW, I was quoted $200 above invoice for the SE and $700 below invoice for the EX 4 auto. I knew the EX price had to be wrong. The price quoted was invoice for a 5 speed EX-4. Sure enough they caught their mistake. I ended up with the SE at invoice and "free" mudguards. My wife is happy as can be!!! I couldn't see the $1200 difference in the EX 4 and SE. I must admit that I would love to have the wheels on the EX and the ABS. It just wasn't worth the extra $$$. Three years down the road I expect the difference in resale to be about $300 between the EX and SE.
Also got the 4.9% financing. This was a great deal.
But if they can fix the problem with a new transmission, I doubt if you can get them to replace the car. After all, you've had it for 4 weeks. If you just took delivery, then maybe...
I also checked two 98 EX & EX-V6 & also 2 2001 Lx they all make this little noise!