As to the accuracy of Mag-X's predictions, remember that the Forester is the same product world wide. The NA Accord is different that the Europeand and Japanese models.
Not quite the same. Some JDM Foresters get turbos, for example, and they have functional hood scoops. But I take your point. The styling of Foresters is more uniform across the board than styling of Accords, and might get getting even more uniform in the future.
Actually, the pics at Mag-X look like an updated version of a sketch Automobile had in a 2000 or 2001 preview magazine. Automobile said the car was a replacement for the Integra sedan. TOV still has a replacement sedan (rwd!) listed on its future model matrix, so maybe we see this car one way or another.
Just please, please, PLEASE bring us a Type-R (or SiR in NA lingo).
I have a 01' Accord EX 4cyl automatic, with 12,000 miles.
A couple of things that have me concerned.
Within the last week, I have noticed when shifting into drive, from park, or reverse. There is a lag time from when the shift occurs and the time the transmission actually engages. Very different from when I first bought the car.
When taking off from a dead stop, and I attempt to accelerate, there is a noticeable pause and then the transmission kicks in violently. Don't know if violently actually is the word to describe it, but I wanted to convey the point. Anyway, if I do not allow the car to roll on it's own from stop (basically idol forward) and then accelerate, the transmission acts like it doesn't want to engage until a certain engine RPM has been reached.
When coming to a stop, the transmission acts like it is still trying to push the car forward, instead of downshifting. It is very unnerving when attempting to stop and you can still feel the car trying to push through the braking; so to speak.
All of this appears to me, that something is out of sync between the transmission and the engine timing.
I also have a 2001 4-cylinder auto Accord with 3,700 miles that does something similar to that, but only when it's very cold (below 20) and only once or twice during the first mile or two of driving in the morning.
It will shift fine from Park into Reverse in my driveway, and then Reverse into Drive in the street, but if I only drive a few seconds before it comes to the first stop, I have to let it come to a COMPLETE stop and allow the idle to drop to about 800 RPM before trying to accelerate again. If I don't do this, it will shift a little hard into first gear, almost like it's still winding down from the higher gear that it was in.
However, once the car warms up a little bit after a few minutes of driving, it shifts normally. It's done this maybe three times since I bought the car last November. I think it's just the fact that the transmission, the transmission fluid, and all of the related parts need a few minutes to warm up a bit in order to work at peak efficiency, so I'm not worried about it. That's why they say to drive a little gently for a few miles during those really cold mornings.
However, if your Accord is doing this at warm and cold temperatures, I would have a dealer or good mechanic take a look at it. Perhaps there's something they can adjust...maybe the idle speed?
I've enjoyed reading this forum for the past year and thought I'd share with you my satisfaction with my 01 LX. This week my odo flipped past 60k and I've had no problems to date. I have an auto I4 and have averaged 20+ / 30+ city/hwy with my best being 36.4 on level interstate cruising @70 with the AC off. I have only had to do routine maintenance and am still on my original tires and brake pads. It looks as if I'll get 80k out of both. I travel about 1k per week (mostly interstate) and figure to be at 100k by the end of the year. Most of my coworkers opted for SUVs and minivans, but I'm here to tell you that the Accord has ample room to allow its use as a business hauler. With its efficiency, @34.5 cents per mile reimbursement , it pays for itself (and the next one). Yes it does have a few rattles and squeaks that my '77 Accord didn't have, but i guess that's the price to pay for mass producing 400k units per year as opposed to the limited production run back then. I'm also looking forward to the 03 model with great interest.
I have the v6 and the shifts are just like described. Coming to a stop does require a complete stop before tranny shifts to first. This has to do with Honda feeling the downshift to first would be less noticeable if it doesn't occur until completely at a stand still. Also explains why a "rolling stop" can feel like there is a lack of a positive gear if you try to take off.
and it is at normal level with it's normal looking color appearance.
As far as when the transmission acts up. It happens all the time. It doesn't matter what the actual air temperature is, or if the car has been warmed up or not. It also doesn't matter if the car has been idle overnight, or for any duration of time. The transmission is acting badly. i will be taking it in to the local dealership, to let them look at it. The car is still under warranty. I just hope they do not come up with some sort of lame excuse, about how/why it is performing in such a manner.
I will let everyone here know how I make out with the dealer and their response; good or bad.
What should I expect to pay for this service? $125-150?
Clean air cleaner element. Replace engine oil. Rotate tires. Inspect front and rear brakes. Check pads and discs for wear (thickness) and damage. Check calipers for leaks and check tightness of mount bolts. Check brake lining (or shoes) for cracking, glazing, wear and contamination. Check wheel cylinders for leaks. Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox and rack boots. Check steering linkage for looseness. Check fluid lines for damage and leaks. Check condition of rack boots. Inspect suspension components. Check bolts for tightness. Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage. Inspect driveshaft for cracks and check boot bands for tightness. Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9 clicks (disc brakes) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brakes). Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). Check the master cylinder, proportioning controlvalve and ABS modulator for damage and leakage. Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks. If needed, add transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid. Inspect cooling system hoses and connections. Check for damage, leaks and deterioration. Check for proper fan operation. Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness. Inspect fuel lines and connections. Check for leaks. Lubricate all locks and hinges with multi-purpose grease or Honda White Lithium Grease.
Question One: I have heard plenty about problems adding aftermarket systems to the Honda Civic. Apparently, adding aftermarket keyless entry/alarm to Civic will cause your dome light to stop functioning properly, while swapping out the stereo will prevent a OEM keyless entry system from functioning at all (with a rather convoluted workaround requiring you to leave the factory radio in the vehicle (hidden in trunk or glovebox) and adding the new system on top of that).
We added Keyless/Alarm and aftermarket CD changer to our '00 Odyssey without trouble, though the alarm is quirky.
Now I'm considering an '02 Accord LX Sedan to replace my '92 Accord LX Coupe. Am I going to encounter problems with aftermarket systems like the new Civic seems to have, or should I expect things to go well as they have with our Odyssey? -------
Question Two: I am a bit weary of seeing silver Accords, but I'd like a light color. White is starting to grow on me. Anybody have any comments on durability of white paint on current gen accord? I've heard that the paint is one of the few weak points of the current Accord. -----
Question Three: Has Honda solved the rear quarterpanel rust problem on Accords? Every (and I mean every) Accord at least as old as mine I see on the street has at least a bit of rust at the rear edge of the rear wheelwell. -----
Question Four: Anybody have fenderwell trim installed on their Accord? It's supposed to extend slightly from the vehicle and protect that area from dings, which would be nice. -----
Thanks for your patience in reading and your helpfulness in replying. I've finally reached the "burnt out" phase of my never-ending decisionmaking process and I'm ready to just go out and buy something soon.
I have a '02 LX and Clifford Matrix-1 alarm installed by my local Best Buy. Everything is fine, including the autolock/unlock feature. The only gripe is that the trunk opener does not actually open the trunk. It just pops the trunk, so you need to open it by yourself.
Our 95 Accord EX has been a great car, until now. With 73k on it, the driver's power window is immobile. The first signs of distress were a funny crunching sound as the window went up or down, along with slowing of the up or down. Now it's froze about 1" down. Of course I warned my dear wife not to use it, and she did anyway, so it's stuck while the temp is 15 and the snow is falling hard & fast here in N MI.
I'm guessing the motor is shot. Anyone have a similar problem? Any idea what this will cost to fix? Should we stick to a Honda dealer for repair?
Thanks for the excellent tip that you gave me about where to buy a HondaCare warranty at a reasonable price. I ended up buying the 7/100K/0 from Tracy (for my 2001 LXV6).
My 1988 Accord LX has that rear panel rust problem and so does my cousin's 1993 Accord LX Coupe. We live in NYC. However, I have not seen this problem in post 1994 Accords.
And for the folks who have no idea what we're talking about...
If you are looking for a genuine HondaCare extended service agreement (aka extended warranty) and you don't want to pay the big bucks your dealer is quoting, please be aware that you can buy a HondaCare contract from any Honda dealer.
Tracy Dalton, the Finance Manager at Alton Blakley Honda in Somerset, KY, is the lady that gave ghomaz and I good service and good prices. You can get contact info at www.altonblakley.com
She may have a different last name now...I think she got married not too long ago. ;-)
I haven't had to use my HondaCare and I hope I never will. In any case, you can save $65/yr by getting rid of AAA because the HondaCare contract includes roadside assistance. With a 7 yr contract you'll be able to pay for about half your HondaCare contract (at Tracy's prices) from not having to cut checks to AAA.
Note that Tracy has never trolled message boards or advertised HondaCare on the net. It's all word of mouth. I don't want her getting into trouble.
I'm in Ohio, so we see a fair amount of salt. I've found that regular washing/waxing seems to slow or eliminate the process. At least in my case. I sold a '88 Accord LX in '96, not a speck of rust. I just sold a '91 Accord LX with over 200k miles, again, no rust, and the '93 that I bought from my Dad when I sold the '91 also doesn't have any rust. Now I have seen many Accords with the problem. When I sold my '88 in '96, I was seeing 90's and 91's that were rusted through. For what it's worth, the same guy bought both of my used Accords (and is bugging me about the '93), and was amazed at the lack of rust.
Sounds as if the window regulator went bad. On that model I believe the regulator and motor come as an assembly so it probably going to be in the area of $150.00 give or take for the part.Good luck
Is find a Japanese-built Accord just a function of luck, or do dealers in certain geographical region get them, or are they relegated to certain models, ie. only V6, or SE, etc? Thanks
I'm not sure if Accords built in Japan are allocated to different parts of the country or if it has something to do with the trim level (DX, LX, SE, EX, V6), but I just bought an Accord DX last November that was made in Japan. I bought it at a dealer in the Washington, DC metro area (Northern VA actually).
Regarding the alarm. I added one and it works great. It depends on the installer. The only problem has been Honda and warranty repairs. Any noise or electrical problems and they will blame the alarm. So keep the car for a while before installing an alarm or buy the Honda alarm. Good luck.
...will be domestically produced cars. At various times and various parts of the country, the 4s can come from Japan, but as noted above, in relatively small numbers. During one model year, all of the SE cars came from Japan, as an example; this year, it seems to be another mix. But in any case, all the V6 cars seem to come from the Ohio plant.
I've noticed that for the last several years, the Accord no longer has the rubber edge protection around the rear wheel wells. At least not as standard on the LX. It seems like a cost saving / cheapening move that perhaps has resulted in rust there. I always spray hose that area when washing the car. My old '86 Accord has no rust except at the bottom of the hatchback "door". It's a southern car, but did spend four years in Germany.
I think Camry is again going to take sales crown this year from Accrod. Camry has a lead of around 19,000 Units in just two months. This is prob'ly due to two factors: New Model & Fleet sales in the first few months of the year (which Honda doesn't do ?)
I currently have an 01 Accord EX V6 that is white, previous car was a 99 Accord EX 4cyl MT and before that was a 90 Accord DX coupe MT, all the cars were white in color. I have never had any problems with the paint fading even in the case of the 90 coupe which I traded in for the 99. That car lasted me almost nine years and the paint was still in excellent shape despite being parked out in the street half the time. Monthly washing and wax three times a year does help keep the paint in good shape. In terms of the rear wheel well rusting, I have not experience it at all in any of the cars. Again I think the routine washing helps. I do it myself and do make sure that I spray the underside of the car. You asked about the fenderwell trim, I installed it myself on all three cars. It is quite easy to do yourself, the instructions are included when you get the parts from the honda dealer or online. Someone else in the posting mentioned the rubber trim piece that goes along the inner edge of the fenderwell. I do remember it being there for the 90 Accord but it wasnt stock in the 99 or in the 01. The sheetmetal was exposed for the latter two years. The fenderwell trim kit that I got for the 99 did not have them either but it was included in the fenderwell trim package for the 01. As for getting a silver car, I think too many people are getting silver colored cars. I chose white for two reasons, it is easier to match when a paint job is needed in case of damage and over the years it will not show swirl marks as compared to a dark colored car. In anycase good luck with your choice.
The only post 1990 Accord I've seen that had rust(other than ones which rust was the least of its worries) was on a Canadian model. I almost bought it anyway since it said EX-R on the back and I had never seen that designation before. But it did have the rust at the edge of the rear wheelwell.
Here in southeast louisiana we get quite a few J-accords. I've seen lx,ex and se's, all I4's as jrct9454 said. Honda has made it easy to look at the vin numbers for the new inventory at their dealers if a "J" is what you're looking for. I was and did this when I bought my 01 lx.
Special financing rate ended 3/4. I just punched in the Accord LX Sedan on CarsDirect.com and the asking price is almost $600 less than it was yesterday.
I can't find anything about a dealer cash incentive.
Anybody heard anything?
It would be incredible to get an Accord hundreds below invoice in the Chicago area. $17,195 w/o haggling? Unbelievable.
A major midwestern newspaper is interested in speaking with folks who have anecdotes and opinions on rear wheel drive vs. front wheel drive in winter driving conditions. We're also looking for people who recently switched one way or the other and what they like/dislike about what they're driving now. If you are interested in participating, please provide your city/state of residence and your daytime phone number to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than March 20, 2002. Thanks as always, Jeannine Fallon PR Director Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
You can get an Accord (or Civic for that matter) below invoice at many Honda dealers in the Chicago area (at least that' s what I found a few weeks ago). These are their volume leaders, they seem to give them away. They're making their money on the S2000, Ody, CR-V and soon the Pilot.
I usually hang around the SUV forum because I bought a Buick Rendezvous last summer, and I enjoy the heated discussions over there...however,
I am the happy owner of a 1993 4 dr Accord EX, which I bought new. I am approaching 90,000 trouble free miles, and to date, have only needed regularly scheduled maintenance.
I read back 100 posts or so but I'm not brave enough to go back further. I'd like to ask if anyone here knows a good shop in the Seattle area for maintenance work. When I lived in Southern California, I used to take my Accord (and two CRX Si's prior to it) to Jackson Racing and received great service there.
Now, I'm looking at a 90,000 service, to include a new timing belt and want to make sure I get good service at a fair price. Also, my transmission slips ever so slightly when accelerating at freeway speeds, and want to get that checked out.
My recently departed '89 Accord LX-i H/B had rust around both rear wheel wells. It also had siginificant rust on the A pillar, driver's side. This was a garage kept vehicle that was subjected to road salt for 12 years. I notice a lot of older Accords here with rust around the wheel wells. And then I see some that don't have it, but obviously I don't know the history of the vehicle.
I'm rapidly approaching my 30K service schedule for my 2000 Accord. Up until now I have used a small local shop to do my oil changes and servicing. Is it more advisable to go to a dealer for the 30K esp. as I'm approaching the 36K warranty deadline.
Thanks for sharing your opinions.
Paul
PS - Can anyone recommend a dealer for this in West Houston??
I have a 92 accord, 130K, that also had both real wheel wells rusting. i live in Pa so we do get our amound of road salt. I wash the car fairly often but it is not garaged. i would say that about 90% of the accords i see also have this problem. i look for this occurance often since i thought it was only my car that it was happening to. i guess i feel a little better that im not the only one. since the car looks pratically brand new everywhere else i decided to get the rust repaired. when i talked to the body shop he informed me that he has done many hondas, all experiencing the same problem, said there are 2 pieces of sheet metal that come together at that spot and moisture tends to build up there which inturn leads to the rust. I too am looking to purchase a new accord but also hope they addressed this issue in the 98-02 models. ive actually seen the rust twice on 2 94's.
Just bought an '02 SE. I also own a '99 LX and '88 DX. I added after market power door locks on the '99. When the car goes into gear the doors lock automatically. This is a great "personal" safety feature. My daughter was saved by this feature with a "parking lot rage" driver. My '00 Silverado locks at 11 mph.
Why doesn't Honda offer this feature? Is this feature available after market to be added to the factory security and locks?
BTW, I was quoted $200 above invoice for the SE and $700 below invoice for the EX 4 auto. I knew the EX price had to be wrong. The price quoted was invoice for a 5 speed EX-4. Sure enough they caught their mistake. I ended up with the SE at invoice and "free" mudguards. My wife is happy as can be!!! I couldn't see the $1200 difference in the EX 4 and SE. I must admit that I would love to have the wheels on the EX and the ABS. It just wasn't worth the extra $$$. Three years down the road I expect the difference in resale to be about $300 between the EX and SE.
Also got the 4.9% financing. This was a great deal.
I'm new here and really need your help. I bought this Accord Ex V6 4-wks ago and noticed some click-click noise when I move forward. There's nothing when I push accelerator on P or R driver. I sent it back to Honda dealer and they've been checking for 2 days but still couldn't find where the problem is. They said it might be a transmission problem. If it is, they will change a new trans for me which I really don't feel comfortable with. Did anyone have the same problem before or can you give me some suggestions? Can I replace another car if the trans is bad? Thanks a lot.
You may have to be a little more specific, such as how loud is this noise, what does it appear to be coming from, how long does it last for, does it only happen in the morning, or every time you start the car, etc, etc?
But if they can fix the problem with a new transmission, I doubt if you can get them to replace the car. After all, you've had it for 4 weeks. If you just took delivery, then maybe...
a lot of people have reported hearing click noises from their honda. accords, civics, cr-v's, most of the time dealer cant find anything wrong. i think its normal.
I have a 95 Accord EX. The rear wheel wells are starting to rust after 6-7 years of ownership. I have seen a few other accords(94-95) on the highway are rusting at the same spot also. I though Honda fixed this problem. The weired thing is that not a lot of 94-95 Accord have the same problem. Do you think it is a defect on my car? Can I ask Honda to pay for the repair? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
When I put the car is revers, get out of parking lot & put the shifter in D4 & then push the accelerator: I hear a small 'noise' (crank-like) which is just a one time & never appears until I start it put it in reverse & again D4-Accelator
I also checked two 98 EX & EX-V6 & also 2 2001 Lx they all make this little noise!
Comments
Just please, please, PLEASE bring us a Type-R (or SiR in NA lingo).
A couple of things that have me concerned.
Within the last week, I have noticed when shifting into drive, from park, or reverse. There is a lag time from when the shift occurs and the time the transmission actually engages. Very different from when I first bought the car.
When taking off from a dead stop, and I attempt to accelerate, there is a noticeable pause and then the transmission kicks in violently. Don't know if violently actually is the word to describe it, but I wanted to convey the point. Anyway, if I do not allow the car to roll on it's own from stop (basically idol forward) and then accelerate, the transmission acts like it doesn't want to engage until a certain engine RPM has been reached.
When coming to a stop, the transmission acts like it is still trying to push the car forward, instead of downshifting. It is very unnerving when attempting to stop and you can still feel the car trying to push through the braking; so to speak.
All of this appears to me, that something is out of sync between the transmission and the engine timing.
Anyone else having similar problems?
Thanks
It will shift fine from Park into Reverse in my driveway, and then Reverse into Drive in the street, but if I only drive a few seconds before it comes to the first stop, I have to let it come to a COMPLETE stop and allow the idle to drop to about 800 RPM before trying to accelerate again. If I don't do this, it will shift a little hard into first gear, almost like it's still winding down from the higher gear that it was in.
However, once the car warms up a little bit after a few minutes of driving, it shifts normally. It's done this maybe three times since I bought the car last November. I think it's just the fact that the transmission, the transmission fluid, and all of the related parts need a few minutes to warm up a bit in order to work at peak efficiency, so I'm not worried about it. That's why they say to drive a little gently for a few miles during those really cold mornings.
However, if your Accord is doing this at warm and cold temperatures, I would have a dealer or good mechanic take a look at it. Perhaps there's something they can adjust...maybe the idle speed?
I've enjoyed reading this forum for the past year and thought I'd share with you my satisfaction with my 01 LX. This week my odo flipped past 60k and I've had no problems to date.
I have an auto I4 and have averaged 20+ / 30+ city/hwy with my best being 36.4 on level interstate cruising @70 with the AC off. I have only had to do routine maintenance and am still on my original tires and brake pads. It looks as if I'll get 80k out of both. I travel about 1k per week (mostly interstate) and figure to be at 100k by the end of the year. Most of my coworkers opted for SUVs and minivans, but I'm here to tell you that the Accord has ample room to allow its use as a business hauler. With its efficiency, @34.5 cents per mile reimbursement , it pays for itself (and the next one). Yes it does have a few rattles and squeaks that my '77 Accord didn't have, but i guess that's the price to pay for mass producing 400k units per year as opposed to the limited production run back then.
I'm also looking forward to the 03 model with great interest.
off.
As far as when the transmission acts up. It happens all the time. It doesn't matter what the actual air temperature is, or if the car has been warmed up or not. It also doesn't matter if the car has been idle overnight, or for any duration of time. The transmission is acting badly. i will be taking it in to the local dealership, to let them look at it. The car is still under warranty. I just hope they do not come up with some sort of lame excuse, about how/why it is performing in such a manner.
I will let everyone here know how I make out with the dealer and their response; good or bad.
Clean air cleaner element.
Replace engine oil.
Rotate tires.
Inspect front and rear brakes.
Check pads and discs for wear (thickness) and damage.
Check calipers for leaks and check tightness of mount bolts.
Check brake lining (or shoes) for cracking, glazing, wear and contamination.
Check wheel cylinders for leaks.
Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox and rack boots.
Check steering linkage for looseness.
Check fluid lines for damage and leaks.
Check condition of rack boots.
Inspect suspension components.
Check bolts for tightness.
Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.
Inspect driveshaft for cracks and check boot bands for tightness.
Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9 clicks (disc brakes) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brakes).
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). Check the master cylinder, proportioning controlvalve and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks. If needed, add transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid.
Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.
Check for damage, leaks and deterioration.
Check for proper fan operation.
Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.
Inspect fuel lines and connections. Check for leaks.
Lubricate all locks and hinges with multi-purpose grease or Honda White Lithium Grease.
We added Keyless/Alarm and aftermarket CD changer to our '00 Odyssey without trouble, though the alarm is quirky.
Now I'm considering an '02 Accord LX Sedan to replace my '92 Accord LX Coupe. Am I going to encounter problems with aftermarket systems like the new Civic seems to have, or should I expect things to go well as they have with our Odyssey?
-------
Question Two: I am a bit weary of seeing silver Accords, but I'd like a light color. White is starting to grow on me. Anybody have any comments on durability of white paint on current gen accord? I've heard that the paint is one of the few weak points of the current Accord.
-----
Question Three: Has Honda solved the rear quarterpanel rust problem on Accords? Every (and I mean every) Accord at least as old as mine I see on the street has at least a bit of rust at the rear edge of the rear wheelwell.
-----
Question Four: Anybody have fenderwell trim installed on their Accord? It's supposed to extend slightly from the vehicle and protect that area from dings, which would be nice.
-----
Thanks for your patience in reading and your helpfulness in replying. I've finally reached the "burnt out" phase of my never-ending decisionmaking process and I'm ready to just go out and buy something soon.
twist
You must live in the salt belt. I haven't seen the rust you mentioned.
Good Luck!
I'm guessing the motor is shot. Anyone have a similar problem? Any idea what this will cost to fix? Should we stick to a Honda dealer for repair?
Thanks!
http://www.vtec.net/news
Thanks for the excellent tip that you gave me about where to buy a HondaCare warranty at a reasonable price. I ended up buying the 7/100K/0 from Tracy (for my 2001 LXV6).
My 1988 Accord LX has that rear panel rust problem and so does my cousin's 1993 Accord LX Coupe. We live in NYC. However, I have not seen this problem in post 1994 Accords.
And for the folks who have no idea what we're talking about...
If you are looking for a genuine HondaCare extended service agreement (aka extended warranty) and you don't want to pay the big bucks your dealer is quoting, please be aware that you can buy a HondaCare contract from any Honda dealer.
Tracy Dalton, the Finance Manager at Alton Blakley Honda in Somerset, KY, is the lady that gave ghomaz and I good service and good prices. You can get contact info at www.altonblakley.com
She may have a different last name now...I think she got married not too long ago. ;-)
I haven't had to use my HondaCare and I hope I never will. In any case, you can save $65/yr by getting rid of AAA because the HondaCare contract includes roadside assistance. With a 7 yr contract you'll be able to pay for about half your HondaCare contract (at Tracy's prices) from not having to cut checks to AAA.
Note that Tracy has never trolled message boards or advertised HondaCare on the net. It's all word of mouth. I don't want her getting into trouble.
twist
I'm not sure if Accords built in Japan are allocated to different parts of the country or if it has something to do with the trim level (DX, LX, SE, EX, V6), but I just bought an Accord DX last November that was made in Japan. I bought it at a dealer in the Washington, DC metro area (Northern VA actually).
I can't find anything about a dealer cash incentive.
Anybody heard anything?
It would be incredible to get an Accord hundreds below invoice in the Chicago area. $17,195 w/o haggling? Unbelievable.
What a bargain.
twist
We're also looking for people who recently switched one way or the other and what they like/dislike about what they're driving now.
If you are interested in participating, please provide your city/state of residence and your daytime phone number to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than March 20, 2002.
Thanks as always,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I am the happy owner of a 1993 4 dr Accord EX, which I bought new. I am approaching 90,000 trouble free miles, and to date, have only needed regularly scheduled maintenance.
I read back 100 posts or so but I'm not brave enough to go back further. I'd like to ask if anyone here knows a good shop in the Seattle area for maintenance work. When I lived in Southern California, I used to take my Accord (and two CRX Si's prior to it) to Jackson Racing and received great service there.
Now, I'm looking at a 90,000 service, to include a new timing belt and want to make sure I get good service at a fair price. Also, my transmission slips ever so slightly when accelerating at freeway speeds, and want to get that checked out.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm rapidly approaching my 30K service schedule for my 2000 Accord. Up until now I have used a small local shop to do my oil changes and servicing. Is it more advisable to go to a dealer for the 30K esp. as I'm approaching the 36K warranty deadline.
Thanks for sharing your opinions.
Paul
PS - Can anyone recommend a dealer for this in West Houston??
Any one knows the actual wattage?
Thanks.
Why doesn't Honda offer this feature? Is this feature available after market to be added to the factory security and locks?
BTW, I was quoted $200 above invoice for the SE and $700 below invoice for the EX 4 auto. I knew the EX price had to be wrong. The price quoted was invoice for a 5 speed EX-4. Sure enough they caught their mistake. I ended up with the SE at invoice and "free" mudguards. My wife is happy as can be!!! I couldn't see the $1200 difference in the EX 4 and SE. I must admit that I would love to have the wheels on the EX and the ABS. It just wasn't worth the extra $$$. Three years down the road I expect the difference in resale to be about $300 between the EX and SE.
Also got the 4.9% financing. This was a great deal.
But if they can fix the problem with a new transmission, I doubt if you can get them to replace the car. After all, you've had it for 4 weeks. If you just took delivery, then maybe...
I also checked two 98 EX & EX-V6 & also 2 2001 Lx they all make this little noise!