While my 2000 never stalled out, it was beginning to take a few seconds longer to crank in the end. I wonder if that was the beginning of the same problem you are having? I had 48,000 miles on mine. My new one has that same rotten egg smell on my 3rd tank of gas. I have put 3 different kinds in so far and no luck, but I will keep trying. Are there any additives that might help with this problem? Gas mileage went up to 17.5 MPG from 16.8 from 2nd to 3rd tank. I also am feeling the vibration alluded to in an earlier post, but I feel it when sitting at a light idling with my foot on the brake. It makes me wonder if the idle is set too high or something. It feels like the van is trying to fight the brakes to stay put, if that makes any sense? It will move at about 1.5-2 mph on a level surface without me touching the gas pedal. Any thoughts?
Our van has rear A/C. Last month, driving through the Mojave, on a sunny but not very hot day, we could hardly get comfortable. When I went to the dealer for the sticker recall, I asked for a check of the A/C and the transmission, but they were too busy. :-(
For the shifter, I am a junk yard hound, but it'll be many years before I see an MPV at Pick-a-part.
BMW says that they engineer 10% slippage in their TCS systems (so says C/D anyway) b/c they think that's the fastest way to get out of Dodge, so you may notice an improvement w/ your TCS off, just like maltb said.
The tranny; It sounds like a control module acting up. If it doesn't do it consistently (and/or when hot or cold) then it's (in my experience) not the actual transmission itself.
Starting/cranking; eh, well...mine "kinda" does that but I remember the Ford I had years ago and I'm just thankful it starts...
Beachnut: Peanuts on the floor??? I make the soccer players take off their shoes before getting in and then only after a thorough inspection for loose debris on socks, shin guards, etc. I think the last trip three of them chose to walk home rather than put up with me...one was my wife! )
The control module in my 2002 LX was just replaced because it would not talk to the diagnostic computer at my dealer. Then my wife told me that she had noticed some hesitation before the replacement but thought it was normal because of automatic (this is our first car with auto, unfortunately) so she didn't complain too much. Now she tells me it's much smoother. BTW, I was given a Bonneville when I had to leave our MPV for a few hours it took to replace the module. MPV handles much better than Bonneville.
I always used to think of Mazda as Japan's answer to Pontiac ... sporty, stylish, etc. Nowdays there's hardly a comparison, esp when you find a minivan handling better than a Bonny! Imo, Pontiac has trouble designing something that doesn't look freakish either!
prlamz: re AC - I DO find that when we're cruising on the freeway that the sun plays a big part in the comfort factor (ie. left side passengers hot, right side comfortable). You may want to consider tinting your front two windows if you haven't already.
I've just completed a four month mileage check after installing a K&N Air Filter in January. I did a similar check for about the same length of time last year. Both involved city with some freeway driving. The results: before K&N, 18.4 mpg; after K&N, 20.4 mpg. That's about an 11% increase. I will also swear I notice an improvement in acceleration. The next pure highway trip I'll try to get some additional measurements.
I'm with Java - although mine doesn't hesitate. It seems the tranny is "too quick" to respond to slight acceleration. I'm used to it by now (feather it better) but would like to see (as you said) to smooth it out somewhat. What should I ask for on the PCM?
I considered the Yoko Avid's, but finally went with the BF Goodrich Control - they were offering a $50 rebate, so were ultimately even less expensive than the Yoko's. I am extremely happy with the tires, so far. No snow driving yet, but the tracking and cornering are great and they sail through puddles without noticeable hydroplanning. Good luck on your decision.
had it since october (7,000 km ago). I felt it was rather noisy winter but is better now. Snow handling was a huge improvement over the yokos. Where I used to slip side to with the yoko's when braking, this one tracked straight. One caveat - when new, it used to scrape against the wheel wells on even the lowest speed bumps.
I purchased Michelin X-Ones for our MPV about 6K miles ago. They're a great all-season choice, though I'm not sure how well they do in snow - haven't seen the stuff in almost 20 years! I bought them mainly because of my good luck with Mich tires over the years and their high wet rating and treadwear. They're T-rated, 700 A B. I'm assuming you have an ES, so if you went with 215/60-16 , it would have a load rating of 94.
I've found with tires that opinions vary widely and there are many good choices out there. Edmund's has a dedicated forum "Tires, tires, tires" May 3, 2002 9:13am I've found it informative FWIW.
I have been searching everywhere for a set of EOM 16" alloys for my '01 LX. I don't particularly like having 15" wheels on a van. There's never much on eBay, the dealer wants way too much, and the boneyards don't have any yet (really rather have new anyway). The Mazda dealer has two listed for my van: an Enkei wheel for $215 and a Umold for $254(who is umold?). I found a site www.aaarims.com that sells this wheel for $195, with a $25/rim credit when buying four, but a $13.50/rim shipping charge, which brings it back up to $183.50 (whoopee!). Anybody else have any other suggestions ...malt, Steve? BTW, where's Tboner (aka "man of many tires") been?
I told you I could 'get' some for you (not condoning illegal activity...). Actually, I'll post a link for you of a large reseller, once I re-dig it up.
My 2002 ES has less than 500 miles on it. Second day home, the check engine light went on. Back to dealer. Said it was the gas cap and reset the light. They filled the tank for me (again). The next day, the light comes on again. The cap is on tight and I've still never filled the tank myself. I don't want to get into a pattern of taking back to the dealer for this. If the problem is still the gas cap, will it eventually reset itself? I'd appreciate any experience with this problem. Only blemish in an otherwise good new vehicle experience.
I've been having the following problem with the transmission in my 2002 MPV LX.
The overdrive off light comes on without any reason. When this happens, the rectangle around the gear designation letter disappears. Moving the lever into park and back into drive fixes this but I have to stop to do this obviously. The bigger problem is hesitation when moving from complete stop when waiting for a light to change, for example. It sometimes takes 2-3 seconds before the car moves. Lastly, the car will not move at all unless the lever is moved into park and back into drive. The rpms go up but nothing happens.
When I first took my MPV to the dealer, there was no communications between the transmission module and diagnostic equipment. The module has been since replaced and I at first transmission shifted more smoothly but the problems have returned.
I'm looking for anybody else out there with similar problems so I can talk to the dealer more intelligently because the problem is hard to reproduce during a 15-minute test drive.
I have never heard of overdrive light coming on before. However the hesitation could be due to a misfire. Some owners reported this problem. Usually it's fixed by installing new spark plugs and/or cables. Could be worth trying...
I get a free car but MPV is my wife's to haul 3 children and the free replacement is always a small sedan. But if this continues, I will insist on a comparable vehicle.
The free car is nice, but last time they put me in a Ford Escort, BLECHHHH! We have two rugrats, one still in a car-seat, so it's not so bad for me. The local dealer uses Hertz; they don't use cars off the lot, as I'm sure most don't. Next time I'm going to push for an MPV! I know they're used in Hertz's and Enterprise's rental fleets. Hmmm, maybe that's how I'll get to test drive an '02. But I won't be to the dealer again since all my problems have been resolved, right?
I am also experiencing hesitation but different one. When I start a van in the morning and when I drive keeping the accelerator steady or setting cruise at 40 MPH I can feel like engine is slightly misfiring. This continues until engine is wormed up. I had exactly the same symptoms with another Ford engine (V6 3.8l) on Ford Thunderbird. I never solved the problem on Tbird but to be honest I have never tried hard because I didn't think it was worthwhile to spend time and money on such a minor problem.
In Kczmudzin's case it is different story. Kczmudzin, you should definitely press the dealer to fix this problem. It shouldn't be that way. Remember, while MPV is in the shop for repair you should get free car to drive till yours is fixed.
A few days ago I noticed the overdrive light on my 2002 LX was blinking. The rectangle for the gear designation was missing. I adjusted the gear lever which put the rectangle back on D. The od light stopped blinking. Hasn't happened again but I have noticed that often when putting the van in drive I slip past D or come short of D. Seems like I really have to concentrate to hit D.
I am not doubting you at all. I just didn't think it could be the same, epecially since they thought it was still a 2.5l engine. Thank you for the tip.
I know this topic was addressed earlier and, for the most part, "WD 40" of something similar was recommended. Well...I've been there and done that...and now it doesn't solve the problem anymore. Is anyone aware as to whether Mazda has come up with some other fix on this issues. My MPV is a 2000 LX and I'm getting tired of worrying about whether the fuel door is going to open or not at every gas stop!
Autozone was selling the filter at full price $59; I found it for 46.89, which includes tax and shipping, after a quick search. Without going into details, after a really bad experience, I avoid Autozone anyway. I'll keep you posted once it arrives and I have tried it.
I'll assume you've found what you're looking for already, but if not, use the above link that mazda_guy listed, and click on "Info" on the left side of the web page. Under the heading "Problem Repair Information Notices" click on either "2000" or "2001". Scroll down through the list until you reach the heading called "Body and Frame". There you will find a link to "Fuel Lid Stuck Closed" which will lead you to a Mazda document detailing the repair you need. Print that out and take it to your Mazda dealer. Basically it involves the addition of what they call a 'lift spring', which is not really a spring, rather a long, thin piece of metal that the fuel door shuts against. Once installed, this spring will push the door open when you release the lever.
Actually, I'm the one that originally had this horrendous problem. The dealer worked on it several times, replacing the fuel door, lever, cable assembly, you name it, they did it. My poor wife would constantly call me from the filling station, van full of kids and tank on empty! The dealer had no knowledge of this fix. Thanks to malt for the tip and to Alex for posting it on the Vakcer site! My fuel door opens religiously now ....
My wife and I bought a 2002 MPV about 3 weeks ago. Van is fine except for a horrible sulfur stink.Someone on the Vacker site recommended Chevron high test but there are no Chevron gas stations in Connecticut. I tried Texaco high test since Chevron merged with them but it seemed to make it worse! Dealer says it is part of break-in process and will go away, but I doubt it. ANY ideas will be appreciated.
I don't think premium is the answer. I suspect it's just money wasted. I had the sulfur smell the first couple of weeks [months] I had the car, and will still notice it on occasion. Most of the time I get rid of it with the right branad of regular gas--in my case, Sunoco. But even that doesn't do it 100% of the time. Every now and again, I'll catch a whiff at a stop light. It's not gone, but it's not full time, and it's not enough to annoy me more than once every couple of weeks, so I've decided I can live with it. If yours doesn't wear away within a couple of months--at least to the point where it's intermittent and minor-- take it in and stick the service rep's head into the engine compartment until he either passes out, throws up, or agrees that it exists and that something should be done about it. But give it a couple of months and a variety of brands first. It should get considerably better. At least mine did. Good luck
I had a bad smell for first three tanks of gas and I don't have it anymore. It is gone. The gas I am buying is Chevron Premium, Texaco Premium, Amoco Premium.
I don't agree that 87 octane gas is good for any engine of today's modern cars. It is cheaper and that is all. Today's engines almost all have compression ratio above 8 and I would never put regular gas in my car unless I leased it or did not intend to keep it for long. I also think that spending $100 a year more for gas by buying premium gas is pretty cheap insurance.
It looks like you guys in US have really bad gas over there. I have never noticed any sulfur smell in almost two years. And I tried many gas brands available in Canada - Petro Canada, Canadian Tire, Esso, etc. None of them stank.
Comments
For the TCS, maybe I'll try it off for a while.
Our van has rear A/C. Last month, driving through the Mojave, on a sunny but not very hot day, we could hardly get comfortable. When I went to the dealer for the sticker recall, I asked for a check of the A/C and the transmission, but they were too busy. :-(
For the shifter, I am a junk yard hound, but it'll be many years before I see an MPV at Pick-a-part.
Mazda_Guy, special thanks for the chuckle.
/j
It sounds like a control module acting up. If it doesn't do it consistently (and/or when hot or cold) then it's (in my experience) not the actual transmission itself.
Starting/cranking;
eh, well...mine "kinda" does that but I remember the Ford I had years ago and I'm just thankful it starts...
Beachnut: Peanuts on the floor??? I make the soccer players take off their shoes before getting in and then only after a thorough inspection for loose debris on socks, shin guards, etc. I think the last trip three of them chose to walk home rather than put up with me...one was my wife!
/j
prlamz: re AC - I DO find that when we're cruising on the freeway that the sun plays a big part in the comfort factor (ie. left side passengers hot, right side comfortable). You may want to consider tinting your front two windows if you haven't already.
BeachNut: I may have to do that, but reluctantly. The plan is to sell our MPV in Massachussets when it's time to leave LA behind.
What should I ask for on the PCM?
Then go to "info" (on the left), then "2000" under Technical Service Bulletins, it's number 01-002/01
or you could try http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/index.cfm
Let us know how you make out ....
SC
I'm looking at Yokohama AVID Touring (94S 620 A B)which have been getting rave reviews on the internet. Has anyone tried these specifically?
I've found with tires that opinions vary widely and there are many good choices out there. Edmund's has a dedicated forum "Tires, tires, tires" May 3, 2002 9:13am
I've found it informative FWIW.
SC
SC
/j
CJP
The overdrive off light comes on without any reason. When this happens, the rectangle around the gear designation letter disappears. Moving the lever into park and back into drive fixes this but I have to stop to do this obviously. The bigger problem is hesitation when moving from complete stop when waiting for a light to change, for example. It sometimes takes 2-3 seconds before the car moves. Lastly, the car will not move at all unless the lever is moved into park and back into drive. The rpms go up but nothing happens.
When I first took my MPV to the dealer, there was no communications between the transmission module and diagnostic equipment. The module has been since replaced and I at first transmission shifted more smoothly but the problems have returned.
I'm looking for anybody else out there with similar problems so I can talk to the dealer more intelligently because the problem is hard to reproduce during a 15-minute test drive.
SC
In Kczmudzin's case it is different story. Kczmudzin, you should definitely press the dealer to fix this problem. It shouldn't be that way. Remember, while MPV is in the shop for repair you should get free car to drive till yours is fixed.
MB
JR
I'll keep you posted once it arrives and I have tried it.
http://www.vakcer.com/mpv/
Very good site BTW
MB
Actually, I'm the one that originally had this horrendous problem. The dealer worked on it several times, replacing the fuel door, lever, cable assembly, you name it, they did it. My poor wife would constantly call me from the filling station, van full of kids and tank on empty!
SC
MB
But give it a couple of months and a variety of brands first. It should get considerably better. At least mine did.
Good luck
RJ
I don't agree that 87 octane gas is good for any engine of today's modern cars. It is cheaper and that is all. Today's engines almost all have compression ratio above 8 and I would never put regular gas in my car unless I leased it or did not intend to keep it for long. I also think that spending $100 a year more for gas by buying premium gas is pretty cheap insurance.
MB