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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I've had issues with this dealer not being able to reproduce some of the sounds, etc. that the van has made at certain times, so on this visit, I had the service writer get a tech to come out and listen to the noise while it was happening. On the way out to the van, the tech asked me, "Does it sound like a cow?" Now I grew up in farm country, PA (more cows than people in my county), and it didn't even sound close to a cow to me. The tech said that a lot of people describe it as sounding like a cow. Once he heard the sound, he knew exactly what the problem was.
Whatever it sounded like (I'd call it a moan, but maybe we'll compromise on mooan), it doesn't make that sound any more.
Steve, Host
Just apply some more force it should come off. I'm not saying to use a crowbar, but some force won't hurt it. Usual disclaimers apply though. I can't be held responsible for any damage you do to your combination lights
Can anyone else add insight? Is this problem widespread? Are dealers covering under warranty (within 50 K miles of course)? Is this something I can clean myself from here on out? Thanks.
(2000 LX w/50K miles)
What does happen is the EGR is downstream of the throttle body and sometimes you do get carbon deposits on the back of the throttle plate.
(They also can plug up, FWIW.)
But that happens pretty much everywhere in the nation, not just HERE (yes, I said here) in St. Louis.
FWIW,
TB
East Side
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=17
This is NOT what your dealership did for $1xx, but if you really want to clean thing out, this is a good way to get to the gunk.
TB
A real pain.
Mark.
I cleaned the one in my SVT when I first got it two years ago with 35K on the clock. It was a little sticky.
Just choose a cleaner that is sensor safe and made for throttle bodys. I know Ford says you shouldn't clean it because of the teflon coating, but if you are gentle, it should be alright.
TB
The dealer says the problem is related to my habit of toping off my tank during fill ups and i might need a new emissions cannister.
Is anyone out there aware of such a problem ?.....Cubbybull
Problem: About every other day, seemingly at random, when we go to close the right power side door (push the button either on the dash or at the door) it will close, act as if it's settling into the door sill, beep, and the reopen on its own. I've cleaned the steel/copper contacts between the door and the sill regularly and this continues to happen. The problem continues for between 4 tries and 15 minutes each time, adding to a high level of frustration.
Today, for the first time, it happened with the left side door.
Possible solution: We have no idea. I've taken the van to the dealer and they cannot replicate the problem. They claim they have never seen this happen and don't know what to suggest.
Question: Has this happened to anyone else???? Is anyone aware if this is a known-issue or if there is any possible fixes??
Help/direction would be appreciated. Thanks!
-Close-less in Baltimore
If it were me, I'd make the dealer get behind the vehicle, and call Mazda if they refuse.
Sorry to hear of your problem, I'm sure it's really frustrating.
-brianV
So far we have only seen one MPV with a door problem. It was early on and something actually broke off and jammed in the door and it would not close...The part was removed and problem has not returned...The part was not part of the door and nobody knows how it got there.
Hopefully your dealer is a good one and will work with you to try and find out the problem. Suggest the service tech or manager drive your van for a few days... Maybe the problem will pop up then.. This is what we try when we can not duplicate the problem.
I have had the van for almost two months, and absolutely love it. Gas mileage is excellent, braking seems sure and trustworthy, and engine/transmission, while a little touchy, is not slow for our purposes.
Good luck with y'all's.
The power door thing has come up enough in general (not picking on Mazda here) to cause me to veto them on our future MPV. I know there's some who just can't live without them, but from my point of view, they're just not worth the potential hassle. Our son is old enough to handle the door now, so it's just an extra expense for little benefit and increased risk of aggravation down the road. As usual YMMV.
-brianV
I will difinitly share your information with them and Thanks again.
Here might be an easy solution to the check engine light - it has worked for me on two occasions now. This is a suggestion from the dealer - when it comes on first thing to do is to loosen the gas cap and than tighten it and make sure that it clicks once - as indicated in the owner's manual. Now you have to be patient, after 2 to 3 days driving the light should go off. My primitive understanding of the problem is that there is a pressure indicator in the gas tank and if the gas cap is not tightened properly than the sensor fires off the engine light.
Good luck!
Good Luck!
Mark.
When I start the MPV cold the transmission sticks in lower gear for a few seconds or so until high RPMs warrant transition to higher gears. After a few minutes, the transitions are normal. Anybody else experience this?
Any recommendations on Extended warranty companies for the MPV?
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to improve this? I've thought about trying to add some insulation around those lines, but what's the right insulator?
Can I expect the same problem with the rear air conditioning in the summer?
RJ
The sulfur smell effects many cars these days, and I've mainly heard that you have to go and try different brands of fuel and then stick w/what works. Also, if you aren't already, only use 87octane in the vehicle. It won't do anything for you to run w/a higher rated fuel. I've heard a couple people even mention that premium blend fuel caused the smell. YMMV, and good luck!
The fuel in this country is dirtier than my nephews diapers, and we should be ashamed of it.
Mark.
The rear a/c has no problem freezing you out here in Texas. I don't think you'll have a problem. You aren't in Death Valley by chance....
Smell: I was in traffic the other day and a sulfur odor drifted into the cabin. Since I never encountered a smell problem in mine before I was afraid "Red" had suddenly barfed at 36K+ miles until I realized it was a new Chevy truck in front of me.
"We are not alone..."
But here in Massachusetts the bigger issue is having the kids chilled in the rear seat while Mom and Dad are toasty in the front seats. (Its that silly guilt thing.)
Still hoping for suggestions to improve the rear heating in my 2003 with the Four Seasons package and Rear AC.
The dealer confirmed the settings were correct and explained the marginal performance was due to the long coolant lines transferring fluid to the rear heater core allowed for heat loss. He also suggested there may be some "break-in" period on that rear seat heater core. It sounded a little suspicious to me so I posted a message to test it.
It seems my problem is uncommon so I'll try the "break-in" approach and go from there.
was a service bulletin on this smell. Has any one seen this bulletin??? Also, looking for some good mud flaps for my van. The dealer mud flaps looked so small. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks