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Comments
I'm very concerned with 1) safety, then 2) price, then 3) looks, and I want to spend around $25,000. Also, I'm tall and like head room and decent lumbar support.
For safety results, I've been consulting both IIHS and Safercar.gov. The IIHS site lists rear crash tests, which is very helpful.
I could buy a Subaru - dowdy, but great visibility - but it has no Electronic Stability Control which I gather is pretty important.
I could buy a Saab 9-3, 2004 or 2005 models, Arc only as Linear is so maligned, but I'm worried about reliability.
I could buy a Volvo S60 (the S40's too small) (which got strangly opposite scores from the two safety sites, namely: IIHS rated it good Front Crash, but only acceptable Side Crash, and Safercars.gov rated it 4 out of 5 stars front, and 5 out of 5 side. Anyone know if this is significant?
I'm happy to buy a used (ideally certified, right?) model to keep the costs down, esp as I need an automatic, and would like leather seats (maybe even heated!)
The Lexus IS 250 and the BMW 325 garnered excellent safety ratings (from IIHS) only in the 2006 (and therefore too expensive) models.
What should I buy?
Two more questions: should I worry that a 2005 car sold at a Saab dealership with very low miles is not 'certified'.
Also, is there a reason to avoid buying a 'loaner', the car the dealer gave out when his customers' cars were in the shop..?
Thank you for any advice.
Loaner - I personally believe loaners see a very hard life. I have a loaner right now, as a matter of fact, and I'm beating the heck out of it.
certified - on an '05, it doesn't exactly strike me as strange that its not certified. they most likely figure its new enough that it still has a decent amount of the factory warranty left. Certifying a car costs them extra money and, consequently, they have to get more for the car from the buyer. I'm sure, if you really wanted to, you could negotiate to have it certified if you pay a certain price (ie, "i'll pay $500 under asking price if its certified").
what should you buy? yikes! well, if its down to the volvo vs saab, i suggest volvo. yes, i'm biased, but i've also checked out quite a few saabs in my time and always found them very cheap feeling compared to volvo.
You can easily get a year or 2 old volvo with leather and auto within your pricerange. A fair price for a certified '05 2.5T with leather and ~15k miles should be right around $24k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Re the Volvo S60 then, how do you feel about a) turning radius b) remarks re engine stalling on the freeway (I've read a few complaints about this...) ?
loaners, contrary to popular belief most loaner cars don't get abused. We, like other dealers keep very good track of our loaners. If anyone abuses one they are cut off forever.
Loaners involve a substantial investment for a dealership, it is in our best interests to make sure that they are free from harm. Plus most, if not all of our customers are very gentle w/ the loaner cars so abuse really isn't an issue.
Ceritified, most 05's won't be since they aren't old enough to justify the warranty costs.
Volvo vs Saab. No surprise I favor the Volvo.
One, resale will be better for the Volvo
Two, you have a bigger dealer network, better access to parts.
Three, Saab is in decline right now, Volvo isn't. Saabs future is precarious at best. What this will do to values in the future who knows.
i don't know about this engine stalling problem you speak of. Maybe volvomax knows something about it.(??)
he's right about the certified on the '05, which is the same reason I said that '05 saab wasn't certified. But, again, you could always negotiate to get something certified, if you want.
volvomax - i didn't mean i run over children with it or something ... its the abuse you don't see that takes its toll. Hard driving (picture mario andretti on his day off) on a brand new car with no miles isn't necessarily a good thing. That is what I would worry about. Now, a DEMO car, on the other hand, could be different. People drive MUCH nicer when a salesperson is in the car with them.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My 2000 9-5 just went up in flames--it was a lemon and Saab refused to take responsibility--last month it was in the dealer for a service (I spent many $1,000s on repairs) and two days later, flames were shooting out of the hood --the front end burned to the ground. Thank goodness it didn't burn in my garage and take the house with it. Saab was not interested in the fire, the dealer would not refund the repair charges that apparently caused it--my insurance company is looking into suing them.
........One time after a regular service I picked up my Jensen from a snazzy "Competitive Sports Car" dealer and after a few miles noticed a thumping sound and wobbly steering. I pulled off the motorway (UK) - it was dark and I couldnt see anything and called the AA. To cut a long story short these clowns had forgotten to put on the wheels nuts. The wheels were slowly coming off the car!!!!!!
Anyway... still have the V70; would recommend the S60 if you don't mind the things that bugged me.
Or do i have to take it to the dealer and pay them to fix ?
Any info will be appreciated.
thanks
That is why light comes on for several seconds. You can just ignore it, but I recommend to change oil at least and have mechanic re-set it.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with your car.
Thanks.
You 04 has free services up to and including the 30k service.
Call your dealer, take the car in and get your free service.
Thanks.
I have been lucky having a friend (automotive engineer from former Soviet Union)running Indy Volvo/Saab shop, where I do all the maintenance since my car went out of warranty. I have found on many occasions that he understands modern cars better than so called "certified" mechanics. In my mind - general education means much more than rather superficial "certification".
Find knowledgeable independent mechanic - this is your best bet. 90% of common problems either does not require a computer to resolve, or can be resolved with the "generic" aftermarket computers that are available to the Indies.
BTW, from my experience I think you would spend the most with a Mercedes (or BMW) post-warranty. That said, don't make your decision based soley on repair & maintenance costs, but rather keep it as one of your deciding factors when it comes down to a choice between a couple cars you really like. No car is perfect.
I've owned Infiniti and Honda. Both quality cars. I haven't had my infiniti recalled or serviced out of norm. I took my infiniti in for driver-side window swith, that stopped working because my daughter poured water it it . But they fixed it for me. I've had nothing but good thing to say about my QX4. Nice quality workmanship interior.
But thanks for your info.
1) Highway driving is very, very bumpy. Any suggestions as to what to do? 16" tires or something? [The car doesn't have the chassis option which would solve the problem, and I assume such a thing cannot be installed, right?]
2) I live in the West Los Angeles area. If / when I need to take it in for service, does anyone have good/bad experiences with the various dealers around here?
Thank you.
2. I have very good experience with the Calabasas Volvo.
And once you will be out of warranty, I will recommend one INDY - Classic Cars of Sweden in Van Nuys.
Look 'em up...
Per Lev, I'll make the drive to Calabasas, unless someone tells me Santa Monica Volvo service is also very good... Anyone?
Question 1: Would anyone like to comment on the degree of new-car-smell in the S60? Anyone who'd like to compare the S60 smell to that of a Toyota Avalon or Toyota Camry?
Question 2: Another alternative is to buy a used S60 -- say a 2004 model. Anyone have one, and could comment on the smell in that?
Thanks
It could be really expensive. I think you would have to live with the somewhat harsh ride, having better looks and somewhat better handling in exchange.
It still smells like leather, if that is what bothers your wife.
BTW I just test drove the 2007 Camry - I'm 5'10" and the front seat is incredibly short for me - passed on it. Didn't note the smell.
For the record, my tires are Pirelli P235/45 R17 Four Seasons DOT XB CU 236 2505 E3 (just wrote everything down that was on the tire)... This translates into good handling but harsh ride.
If Volvomax is reading this, would he/she care to comment as well? Thank you.
The S60 T5 was designed for high speed driving and better than average reflexes.
Good handling in an emergency is paramount for good vehicle safety.
A cushy riding car won't be able to make an emergency lane change or turn with the same degree of confidence that a car with a more aggressive setup could.
You may never use the capabilities af an S60 T5 or BMW or Audi, but there is a reason why European cars ride differently from their American or Japanese counterparts.
As for the wheel issue. You may be able to swap the wheels and tires with your selling dealer for a set of 16" wheels and tires. Especially if you don't have any miles on your set. Probably won't get an even exchange, but it would be better than having to go to the parts dept and pay $300 a wheel plus tires. However, even if you do this, you may not notice much of a change.
Here is why. First of all the S60 T5 spring and shock setup would be unchanged. Suspension has more to do with road feel than just the tires do.
Also, you wouldn't gain much size in the tire. The S60 T5 has a tire size of 235/45/R17. That is a tire that is 235 mm wide and 105.75mm tall. The 16" wheel on the S60 2.5T is 215/55/R16, or 215mm wide and 118.25mm tall. You would gain 12.5mm in tire height. not much. While the side wall would gain some flexibility the basic suspension setup would be unchanged. Also, you would be losing 20mm of contact patch. Which when you are trying to put 257hp through the front wheels can come in very handy.
I have used Volvo of Santa Monica to service my 2001 S60 for the past five years. Their service has always been good.
IMHO, it smelled less chemically than our Pathfinder.
What did your wife say when she smelled the car?
Thanks
I would not think so - bulbs are considered the normal expendables, but try...
Hope the smell problem goes away and I have a slightly different question for you:
How much (or maybe more appropriately how much off MSRP or relative to Invoice) did you pay for your loaner? I'm looking at an S60 2.5T AWD which was the "retired demo" car used by the owner of the dealership. It has 6200 miles on it. As it is really loaded (premium pkg, climate, convenience, nav, sport, 6 disc CD and blue-tooth)it may be hard to compare directly, hence the question about relative to MSRP or invoice.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I paid $25,400 for the 2006 T5, which was put on the road late November 2005. It has more hp than the 2.5T (257 vs 208) and is a sports vehicle, meaning there's not a sport pkg per se. It had 7400 miles on it. The only package was Premium. No nav, no climate, only a single disc CD, no chassis choice (or whatever it's called - to make your ride less bumpy, which it will be if you get the 17" wheels - see my other notes above re this). But has things like: leather, auto-dim mirrors, power seats on both driver and pass side, satellite radio prep.
Didn't manage to find a car that had heated seats (being in So Cal and all that) but I negotiated a 6-yr 100k certified warranty into the deal... really wanted that.
Someone want to tell me whether I got a good deal or not?
Have you put in all the detail on your car to find out its MSRP?
Thanks again for your help.
Take care
Took it on a road trip, and got 30mpg in high altitude mountain driving.