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I'm not saying your mechanic is trying to rip you off or anything of that nature. It just could be a mistake on his part because he sees... what? maybe 2 volvos a year and probably at no time in his career has he seen a volvo with the problem you are having. So, essentially, he is making his best guess. As much as we'd like to believe it, mechanics are no infallible and there is, many times, alot of guesswork involved in repairs.
A "cracked" turbo at 90k miles is highly unlikely, especially a low-pressure, low-stressed turbo like you have in your volvo. A turbo can develop problems, usually the bearing goes bad, but that is only if it is mistreated. Have you been performing regular oil changes? Do you park and turn off your car IMMEDIATELY after alot of hard accelerating or high rpm (ie, highway) driving?
Oh, and oil getting injected into the engine won't really harm anything, unless its a crazy amount of oil, which, again, is highly unlikely. If it does find its way into the impeller which then shoots it into the intercooler, which then has to find its way all the way through the intercooler and into the intake ... which just doesn't sound likely to me ... it would just get burned up during the combustion process.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
As I said, this is a simple repair.
If you starve the Turbo unit of oil it will eventually seize up,and will need to be replaced.
I would take the car to a Volvo dealer or Volvo specialist for a more complete diagnosis.
I don't know what the MPG is per Volvo, but I live in LA and do mostly city driving i.e., 10-30 mph most of the time. My MPG is averaging 16-17. No matter what gasoline grade I put in. I'm not thrilled by this. I believe it was touted as doing better than this.
Otherwise, it's a solid car, not bad-looking car, great in a rear-impact due to fabulous headrests (and maybe in 2007 they fixed the side-impact problem with your right leg prone to hit the steering column. Anyone?
Good luck!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/types/reliability-comparison-index.htm
Let's have some eggnog! :P
Merry Christmas, everyone!!
There are still S60 2007s (not demos) in my area. Edmund's TMV for the basic S60 is $25,757. How much should I expect to pay for an extended warranty? Also I know there is a $4500. cash back to dealer ending on Jan. 8. Do you think there will be more incentives after Jan. 8, or will this one be extended? Any advice appreciated.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Has anyone had any problems with their information display?
My display now only works for a few minutes when the engine has started and then disappears has anyone else had this problem?
I just bought a used 2004 Volvo S60. I am so completely in love with it even though I have only had it a matter of hours. But buying it used there are, of course, a few issues. I want to address the issue of the outside mirror memory in this post.
The passenger side outside mirror keeps the memory without any issue. However, the driver side mirror constantly resets itself to a position completely up. I have tried to reprogram it, but let me walk you through the process I have used.
Enter car --> Turn engine to position I & II --> Adjust mirror --> Lock using electronic key fob. --> Unlock.
It appears that when I open my door the mirrors goes back to the upright position, a position completely unable to be used while driving.
Perhaps I should perform the adjustment while keeping the door open? Any help that can be provided would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Lee
Adjust the mirror, then push the memory and seat number button at the same time for 5 seconds.
Reach up under the Volvo emblem in the center of the trunk lid.
Couple questions-
1) i bought a 2K Saab 95 on Ebay but not sure about buying a 13-14K car there. Thoughts?
2) Reliability? She likes the Camry for that but hoping the S60 is close since it is much more sporty.
3) What is a good price to pay for a 04 with around 50K?
4) What options are desirable and worth the money and which ones should we avoid?
5) Are all turbos like the Saabs?
Thanks and any other thoughts about this being a good reliable car for a 40+ woman.
Thanks
Jeff Hestand
1) Ebay doesn't necessarily scare me ... as long as you go see the car before bidding and have it checked out by a pro. At which point, you might as well purchase it rather than bidding.
2) The Volvo will definitely cost more in the long run for maintenance and repairs, but you are rewarded with what, in my opinion, is a much nicer car.
3) Depending on the options and engine, probably something like $12k? I keep seeing one advertised near me at a volvo dealer that is a CPO '05 2.5T with 40k miles for $16,900.
4) Pretty much those options you'd expect on a borderline luxury car, like leather power seats, moonroof, automatic trans, and climate control (and, depending on where you live, seat heaters). I suggest checking out one with the upgraded stereo if you get the chance. It is pretty spectacular.
5) Nope. I believe all the new ones are turbo, but that was a recent development. In '04, there were 3 models. A naturally aspirated 2.4 (base model), a light-pressure turbo 2.5 (2.5T), and a high-pressure turbo 2.3 (T5). I strongly suggest the 2.5T for your wife.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have 2006 S60 2.5 T AWD. In the text box, it displays "anti-skid service required" and "Park assist service required" when I start the car.
Then I took the car to the dealer. The service dept said that they down-loaded new software to correct the "anti-skid service" message and they replaced one of the sensors on the rear bumper to correct the park assist service problem. However, just after I came back home from the dealer, the both errors reappeared. Have you had this problem??? Any help would be appreciated
The 40's system uses an electric pump instead of an engine driven one.
Plus, the assist is different in the 2 cars.
The 40's steering is more direct.
Thanks.
Signed, a Jeep driver looking for change
This goes for every model of vehicle. Even Honda and Toyota produce their share of lemons and, consequently, their share of unhappy owners.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you are worried about repair costs, spend a little more and get a Volvo CPO car.
Volvo's are not cars to buy and maintain on the cheap.
Info about particular car:
*Gold S60 2.4
*117k miles
*Cold Weather package(even headlight wipers not sure about washers, heated seats. What else comes with it?)
*sunroof
*power headrests in back and seats up front
*Perfect interior. No tears, rips, nor stains.
*about $7k(rounding up)
*Dealer offering warranty
Things I don't like:
Not Geartronic, the "VOLVO" lettering on steering wheel, skimpy looking exhaust, Manual AC controls(4knobs), not turbo, and no wood interior. No fog lights and discoloration on some of the plastic guards on the exterior bother me some... But since i live in miami with rare fog days, and i live with people and often have door dings in parking lots, the plastic may be a good thing...
I would love to get the 2003model just to avoid all theses problems! but not available for $7k. Also going from 170hp 165lbs to 168hp Doesn't seem like a big difference. Especially since I'm getting a safer car with the majority of the options I like. Better MPG is a plus!!
I would also like to know if some parts are changeable with newer s60 models.
I would love the newer S60's key fob(pocket knife design), Signal mirrors, and wood inserts for doors and above glove box. I guess the steering wheel too!!
I guess a few options on the 2.4 vs 2.4T/2.5T too would be appreciated!!
Thanks in advance,
-Cj
To answer at least one of your other concerns ... I wouldn't let the 4 climate control knobs fool you. It still is technically automatic climate control since you set a temperature and the system does the rest. To be honest, I miss my volvo's climate control. I found it so much easier to deal with compared to a bunch of buttons and a digital picture full of heiroglyphs.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'll continue to look around. But i'm beginning to lean on the 04.5+ S40s :confuse: ....
I'm not in a rush. By the time I buy, the 06 S60's may be $6k
-Cj
Well, they may be ASKING those prices, but I very much doubt that is what they are GOING for.
good luck with your search.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Cunning, these Swedes. :shades: Hope this helps.
My son just recently purchased a 2004 S60 2.5 T Volvo....it has 58,000 miles on it.
He is getting conflicting reports on two maintenance questions....
One: Should he use the recommended Volvo transmissions fluid and how often does the trans fluid need to be changed? I have had a dealer say "never....we don't suggest changing it" another one said "every 30-45,000 miles"....both are Volvo dealers so which do we go with? If the fluid is clean and red looking do we just leave well enough alone?
Two: Changing the oil....what type and what grade do we use? Someone said 'use only synthetic' and change every 7500 miles...someone else said use any good 10/40 weight oil and change ever 5,000 miles. Always changing filter with the oil change. He will not be using this car in commuting, just errands and when they go on weekend trips.
Any other helpful hints you could give me to give him....it was his first car purchase and he did well with his choice (CR rated it a best buy and he got a good deal on it).
Thanking you in advance.
Patti
Herb
I would normally point you at the volvoforums site here in U.K. as it has answers for just about everything, but it's shut-down for the time being. You could look at the swedespeed forum, (USA based), as the "community" section has sub-sets for all models.
As for gearbox oil changes; I don't think Volvo specify a change period for the oil and I don't think there is even a drain plug. Some U.K. guys seem to think that around 100k miles might be a good idea - but others say not to bother. Sounds like Volvo dealer 1 is following the party line and Volvo dealer 2 is chasing income. Possibly I'm being unfair here. If it's clear and red then I would leave well alone. Yes, I would use the designated Volvo fluid, if and when etc. Small price to pay for peace of mind.
Engine oil changes are a whole can of wringly things. Here in Europe the '04 models specified 12000 mile/1 year changes and the later models now go for 18000 mile/1 year changes - including the diesels. Yes I would use synthetics but from my perspective 7500 miles is low and 5000 is criminal. The correct viscosity may be given in the owners handbook, or you could ask Volvo USA. Just looked in my Owners Handbook and it simply says to look at the decal at the front of the engine bay for correct viscosity/performance levels. Might be a good place to start. Short run/errands type mileage is worse for oil than good long runs.
Can't believe how you folks get ripped on oil-change intervals. Same engines, same lubes but much shorter drain periods. However, your lubes are at give-away prices compared to ours so I guess it's relatively fair, even if it's not technically necessary, (correct spec 0W-30 for my D5 is equiv of $18 per litre over here and that's not particularly expensive compared to some others). Just as another example the VW/AUDI TDi's run to 20k miles oil drains here in Europe. Perhaps your history of fuel quality has a bearing, (er - no pun intended).
Sorry I can't be more specific/helpful. The S60 is a great car - very comfortable - and the T5 is a gem of an engine, (but not as good as a D5, of course........... sorry, couldn't resist. Just completed a 1700 mile European trip at an average of 33 miles per US Gallon equiv including some 110 - 120mph cruising in Germany which is part of the reason I love my diesel).
Your son made a good choice and I'm sure he'll enjoy the drive. :shades:
As far as using synthetic oil in the crankcase, I would ask your dealer what they think about changing now at nearly 60k miles. I think most mechanics usually recommend against it after 30k or so. (meaning, if not by 30k, then never)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I read a post from Nov. 2007 where someone suggested checking the spare tire but that is located in the trunk, so I don't believe that's it. Does anyone have any ideas? :confuse:
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
By the way, if you are interested in doing the work yourself, it is a very simple repair. Additionally, aftermarket heavy duty endlinks are available. The stock links fail on a periodic basis while the aftermarket ones, I believe, carry a lifetime warranty. The are more expensive, however. Stock replacements are ~$30 and the aftermarkets are ~$100.
Here are the ones from IPD
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Do you think the repair is simple enough for a beginner (and a female)? By the way that is not a trick question! If so, where could I find some simple demo/instructions?
Thanks once again :shades:
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I took the car to the dealership and I was told the transmission has problem. I was told I need to replace a new transmission and both drive shafts. Plus labor it will cost me a forturn. Man I cannot afford that much on it and that's not what I wanted to do.
I appreciate if any of you can recommend a garage in Las Vegas which is reliable and good at dealing with volvo and/or transmission work? I hope there is some expert can help me do a rebuilt. It doesn't have to be too cheap but should not rape me off. Thanks.
I'm talking the 07-08 S80. Many thanks.
I'd probably buy the latest non-new car, with the best price, I could find...........unless there is some serious reason not to, (but can't think what).