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Ohmar in Dixon,IL.
I first tracked down the car on my dealers lot last July at around 11:00 PM. I had been scanning the internet listings and could not physically find this car even on the overflow lots. It was one of a couple of pkg 13's in the area, all configured slightly different with add-ons like cargo net, spoiler, etc. I finally found it in an extremely dark area near the service entrance which I usually wouldn't check for new cars. But it turns out this car was a trade with an Eastern Shore dealer about 150 mile drive away. It was going to be prepped. The Silver color was almost luminescent in the dark so I go home and tell the wife it shines like a Moonbeam. We had originally been considering other colors but had yet to see a Silver. So, you can guess the rest. Next day, early call, early visit. Out the dealer door with a very happy wife. I ask ya, ain't love grand?
http://www.hdkautosport.econgo.com/
HDK Autosport
PO Box 11345
Erie, PA 16514
My dealer sold me a '01 GLS V-6 that was under a tree for a while. They worked on it but were unable to completely remove the remnants of tree sap from the paint. It looks as if the sap caused some small almost unnoticeable raised areas in the finish. Does anyone have any experience with this?
My first question is, what seems to be a good price for these? He had a Olive one that he had said I could get for a steal ($11,000 range since it seems no one liked the color), but when he went in he found out it had just recently sold. I figure if they were willing to let that one go in that price range maybe they will sell another!
Second is there any problems with the 2000 models to watch for?
I had really wanted a new one, but don't think I can swing it, so I was going to see what I could do in the used market and let someone else take the big first year loss.
Any help is appreciated. It is encouraging to see that with the tons of postings to this site that there really are not alot of negative comments regarding problems.
Thanks
Tree sap-- I think you're probably referring to the really tiny brown dots all over a car? I know they can be a real pain to remove. My aunt let her Santa Fe go a few months w/o care and when I tried to remove those dots when detailing it, I just gave up. I had tried bug/tar remover, claying, and even the pre-wax cleaner didn't get all of it off. I've read recently that sometimes it'll come off with rubbing alcohol, Avon skin-so-soft (SSS), and even WD-40, although you need to be sure to wash off the WD-40 if you go that route (personally WD-40 seems a bit harsh for paint). Good luck.
jc-58- 12 to 13G's for a 2000 GLS seems reasonable, especially with any option package and no more mileage than what you've said. It all depends on how eager they are to get rid of them. Call up Enterprise rent-a-car and ask how much they're selling them for (theirs will probably have twice the mileage of the dealer's, but Enterprise sells using a no-haggle policy, so you'll get a better idea of a fair price in your area).
Now ordinarily I would never take my car to the dealer for a problem like this. But my wife is the daily driver and you know how that goes. A car not even 1 year old...She wants it by the book. So since I'm already into them for the brake inspection and the LOF I figure let 'em do it. I was tempted to tell them to stop right there but I already knew I would seek an adjustment from Hyundai on the rotors and their associated labor costs anyway. I started the process right away by going through channels with the service manager. Haven't heard back from him yet. With the Holiday weekend, I don't expect anything until next week. If not satisfied, I'll move on to Hyundai Customer Hotline and the Area Rep.
And on top of this, they wanted to charge me another $200 for the 15K service which I'm overdue for. Jeesh! Somedays it just doesn't pay to get out of bed.
Usually I just reverse the pads from right to left and left to right and the vibration will go away in short order. It doesn't work that well if the rotor is badly warped but it always worked to cure rotor grooving problems. In this case the rotors were beyond machining. I know because I inspected them when I rotated my tires and saw them at the dealer's after being taken off of the car. There were definite high and low spots so replacement wasn't uncalled for. The parts cost was $93.60 x 2 for the front rotors and $54.95 for the pad kit. Labor is always rated by the job hour which is always BS. Anyway, that was $120. The whole repair cost came to $362.15 but when you add the 'Shop supplies', there's another $30 added on. I could have done the job myself for a good bit less but that's not what my wife wanted with a new car.
I'm really not that upset because I already knew taking it to the dealer for this would not be in my best financial interest. I'm only questioning the rotors as they are not excluded in the language of the warranty. It says 'brake pads and linings' not 'all brake SURFACES'. From my perspective, the rotors should be part of the B to B warranty and I intend to pursue it in that way. I'll post here when I hear anything.
P.S. Yes, we do put the miles on around here. But we buy knowing that this is the case and intend on keeping this car for a very long time. I still have my '95 Sonata and will run it into the ground. When the time comes for a new XG300 or '02 Sonata, it will not be traded. Every house should have a beater in the driveway.
Apparently, a Viper 550 system seems to be a good buy if you're looking for reliability and trouble-free operation, but make sure they solder in the connections or solder them yourself later on. Circuit City in the Washington DC area will install it for $399 which is also the going price of a Sidewinder (same manufacturer as Viper) equivelant system. I just received my LCD pager remote start system off Ebay and hope to get it in later next week. The LCD remotes are amazingly not much larger than a standard keyless remote, only a bit thicker. The only thing I've noticed so far is that I had to lightly sand down the lower tabs on the battery compartment lids, so that they'd seat better. Also, I have to buy a separate relay for the starter disable/anti-grind, but the installation manual is very helpful. I'm waiting on my trunk-pop kit which I'll be adding.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
Thanks for answers in advance. Mine is pearl white, which is beautiful. The features I do have are all power stuff, CD/cassette, AT, of course, moonroof and that's about it. I don't think I have ABS (how would I know; my salesman certainly didn't).
Does this combination sound odd? Also, is there a way I can check to see if the recall item was accomplished?
sorry for all the newbie questions
John
Yes the '00 GLS has a std. power antenna. Yours must be something the rentals cooked up. Since it is a GLS it might have the pre-wiring in place in the trunk. You'll have to check out what is there. If you see anything more than the antenna cable you may be in luck for an easy install.
Keyless was optional in '00 but may well have come on yours in a pkg. install. It is unlikely that a rental fleet vehicle would have it included in the build specs., though.
It sounds like the pkg. level is the 10 or 11. If you had a 12, it would have leather. But you have the moonroof and the CD/Cassette upgrade and I just can't remember which pkg # that is.
ABS only came on pkg 13 but since yours was a fleet build, it might have it. It is very easy to find out. Just lock up your brakes on any test road. You will know by the sound and pulsation in the pedal. Also the ABS dash light will glow during operation. Of course an easier way is to look under the hood. On the passenger firewall you will see a lot of brake line running into the ABS control module. You can't miss it if it's there.
I would contact Hyundai customer service about the recall. The number is in the manual. Give them the VIN and see if they have a record of the recall work.
Good Luck and Happy Hyundai Motoring.
One other point to be aware of - you do have a 30 minute window after making a post in which a blue "Edit" button shows up beside the date and time of your post - this gives you the opportunity to make any changes you'd like shortly after you've posted.
Hope this is helpful.
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
Need some help, if anyone has some experience, knowledge, or advice to offer....
Have a 2000 GLS V6 with package 13 and auto transmission (actually, we have two identical cars: one mine, one the spouse's). Until recently, my Sonata was absolutely the best car I have ever owned. The spouse claims the other Sonata is absolutely wonderful, too. But, here's what happened:
Hyundai recalled both cars for the stalling issue a few months ago. I never had a problem before the recall... and, even now, the other Sonata seems fine.
Hatfield Hyundai in Columbus, Ohio (purchased both cars there) did the recall work. When driving my car home from the recall service, I noticed an odd vibration. The car appeared momentarily unsure of a gear while coasting along a country road... then picked a gear and continued. The odd vibration remained, however, even after the shift.
I immediately went back the dealer but the problem disappeared after I parked and spoke to the service manager. NOTE: I shut off the car after parking it.
I thought the Sonata's problem was a brake thing - like a pad rubbing: had such a brake problem with my beloved Z some years ago. With the Z, a self-adjusting anti lock brake (left rear) was not adjusting properly and created a vibration much like the one in the Sonata, so I did not give the Sonata's problem a second thought at the time.
After driving around with the service manager for a while, I just went home and considered what happened was some weird fluke. In the service manager's presence, I gave the Sonata a few firm brake applications and assumed all was well.
Last week, under very gentle acceleration in heavy city traffic, the transmission began wildly hunting for a gear. This time, the hunting was much more obvious. The engine also began blatantly misfiring and bucking. The engine then sputtered, stalled, and refused to start. The problem very much appeared to be a more severe version of what happened when I was driving home from the dealer (see above).
I shut off the car and hit the emergency flashers. Soon, a police officer stopped to help me. I had tried re-starting the car a few times, but my attempts failed (only a few seconds between attempts). The officer suggested I try starting the car one more time (car had been off for 30 to 45 seconds then) and, strangely enough, the car started without a problem. This time, assumed I had water in the gas . . . and again did not give the problem much thought. I did notice, however, a connection with the problem I describe and gentle acceleration (see above; still figured it was related to water in the gas).
Yesterday, I was gently accelerating into beltway traffic (heavy but fairly fast traffic; was on a LONG multi-lane on-ramp leading to six traffic-carrying lanes). At about 60 mph, the car again began wildly hunting for a gear and the engine began misfiring and bucking.
I had just merged into a center lane grew afraid: traffic in my lane and leftward was traveling between 65 and 80 mph, traffic on my right was merging left, so I stepped hard on the gas to get moving. The car just downshifted, hit and sustained high RPMs, and continued to misfire and buck. The car also gradually began slowing to 45 mph while maintaining low gear, turning high RPMs, and misfiring and bucking. The "check engine" light began to flash as well.
I hit the emergency flashers and pulled off the highway (no small feat in fast, heavy holiday traffic). I when I pulled off the highway, I put the car in neutral and tried revving the engine to see if the airflow-sensor was an issue (ie. sensor misreading). I figured a couple of quick accelerator punches would adjust the problem. My ingenious idea was for naught: the engine continued to misfire and shudder, the tach bounced up and down indicating RPMs varied drastically, and the "check engine" light continued to flash.
I killed the ignition, raised the hood, and looked under to see if there was an obvious problem. I could not, to my limited ability, find anything wrong.
Given my previous experiences, I noticed the problem corrected itself after shutting off the car. With trepidation, I inserted the key in the ignition and started the car (it had been off for a minute or more). Unbelievelably, the car started and behaved normally.
Both cars have had all scheduled maintenance and oil changes done per Huyndai's recommendation. Further, I use the recommended 87 octane from mainstream petroleum companies (usually Marathon or Shell - I avoid offbrand gas).
My car just turned 18,000 miles (was making weekly highway hauls for the better part of a year) and mine is the only one demonstrating problems in spite of quality gas and maintenance.
After the freakish incident yesterday, I took the car directly to Hatfield Hyundai's service center. The car is there pending inspection. I repeatedly used the 'gentle acceleration' scenario on my way to Hatfield to try and recreate the problem, but could not get the car to repeat its performance. A couple of times, car did start to hunt for a gear and behave awkwardly . . . and after a moment, it was fine.
The last time I brought up this issue, the dealer claimed nothing was wrong with the car. I'm not prepared to accept that answer after what happened yesterday: cars are supposed to run, not balk. Given that yesterday, I was fairly sure I was about to be killed in speeding holiday traffic, I'm pretty hell-bent on solving this problem.
Loving one's car does not mean dying for one's car, ya know?
Thanks in advance. Hope someone knows what this problem is: It's heartbreaking to have a car you adore "get sick."
Best regards,
'Bean
Sounds like the ECU is getting bad info from a sensor, which is what the recall work should have been for. According to the recall, the MAF sensor connector was coming loose and causing the ECU to stall the engine.
By the way, I have had several bad experiences with Dennis Hyundai here in Columbus so stay away from them at all costs!!
2. Another easy way to look for Sonata GLS ABS is to see the black traction control switch ahead, and slightly to the right, of the transmission shifter, near change holder. If you don't have one labelled "TCS On Off", then you don't have ABS. (If a rental car broke its power antenna, would the company necessarily replace it? Or might they just go with a cheap, quick fix? Bet rental power antennas break a lot.)
I signed papers, agreed on a price, wrote a deposit check . . . then waited 6 weeks longer than promised and got a call the day of delivery stating they misquoted - I'd have to pay $2,000 more (happened in 1986).
I demanded my deposit back and they *ALMOST* denied it . . . but a threatening call from an attorney solved that problem: I left with my money.
Before I bought the 2000 Sonata, I also shopped a Dennis dealership. It was identical schtick: I faxed in a detailed statement explaining what I wanted, the cost breakdown on the dealer's side, and what I was willing to pay (key here is, the dealer had to have made that month's quota to make selling to me worth his while).
I even agreed to wait up to three months, if needed, to get the price I wanted: time was not the essence, dollar value was.
Again, Dennis agreed. I went to the Dennis Hyundai (Columbus, OH) dealer, we talked BS for over half an hour, I "signed" some papers, and the dealer again reniged - but this time, I did not sign a down payment check (on purpose - I had not forgotten 1986).
Don't use Dennis for any vehicle: they're the biggest cheats in the business.
And - for those of you who responded to my initial post re: engine & transmission trouble: THANKS !!!
'Bean
I had a similar experience post-recall service but nothing as severe. The car simply would stall which it had not done previously. Yet another trip back to the dealer solved it with little fanfare or explanation. I always suspected they didn't do the recall work the first time. And they wonder why my 15K service wasn't done in a timely manner. Yeah, right.
They'll attempt to scam you every step of the way.
A bunch of thieves.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
I do know that the problem with the recall was never fixed, but they agreed to fix it, any one think this could be the reson for the engine light??
Thanx ahead for your info.
Tina
If there is anything you want done or feel needs to be done, do it BEFORE you buy. As long as you haven't bought it, you are in the driver seat. And it will show you the type dealer they are. Get them to do all recall (MAF sensor) and technical service bulletin work. You might also have them fix any minor dents or paint issues. If they give you grief or don't want to do it, that might be a clue to go somewhere else.
Also, learn as much as you can about the car. Who owned it before you? Try to talk to the former owner? Where was it serviced? Look over the service and repair records. Why wasn't the MAF sensor work done? That seems a bit odd.
As for the check engine light. Did you recently refuel before it came on? Did you click the cap at least 3 times?
I am very impressed with the ride and all of the creature comforts. I am amazed I do not see more of these on the road, but if they turn out to be reliable, I have a feeling this will change.
Mine is Pearl White ( color looks great in the sun ). This is car number 30 for me ( yes I am a car nut) and it seems as solid as any one I have driven. Hopefully, there will be no problems down the road.
Peace
They look good.The white is nice ,but they had a loaded black SONATA(spoiler etc)that looked extra sharp.
The Sonata has great colors and it is hard to go wrong. Geography plays a part also.Black in Phoenix, AZ in the summer is a lot hotter than white.
If you are driving "da bomb", who cares though. You will be looking good and feeling good. DO IT!
baril2, let us know about the Honda Accord. Sounds as though you had a dilly. I had a "94" which was a good car. I will be turning in a 98 Toyota Camry in June on a lease.It also has been a good car. My 01 Sonata sits in the garage with 220 miles on it, and I purchased it one month ago. I still have miles on the Camry to use up. I purchased extra miles and my better half says "use them" or else. I know she is right but how do you buy a new car and then let it languish in the garage? This is just killing me. Maybe I bought too soon, but a good deal is a good deal, so I went for it. Anyway, happy motoring
For anyone wanting to "hard-wire" their buzzer, here's what you do for a 2000 GLS:
On the rear of the fuse box, on the bottom, there's 3 different plugs full of wires. The center (again, bottom) plug should have one red wire coming out of it (aside from the other colors). I think this same plug has about 4 yellow wires on it (door triggers/dome light), but I'll have to double check. This red one is the wire for the Parking lights/dash lights. If you want to test the wire, use a pocket knife or razor blade to carefully remove a tiny (1/8") portion of the vinyl insulation and use the actual buzzer to test it with the light switch on, or a digital voltmeter should show 12V when the light switch is on (remember to ground the other wire of the buzzer or voltmeter). I think this red wire is 18-22 guage wire, so you'll need a T-tap for that size. Don't just put the T-tap over the wire and snap it in, since you'll damage some of the wire threads that way. Also buy a packet of compatible male flat-bladed connectors to use with the T-tap. Use the same area that you tested the wire at on the red wire and slide/snap the T-tap at that point as best you can. You may still damage a thread or two in the process, but that's normal for this type of "quick connector".
For the "RR Fog" wire (ground), use a 1/2" long self-tapping sheet metal screw w/power drill, to install a grounding screw to the metal area below the steering column. Then use one of those crimpable hoop-shaped ends to attach the wire to the screw.
You may need to extend the wires of the buzzer to do this. Either use the solderless crimp-type connections of the proper size, or solder them and use heat shrink wrap to make a good seal. The buzzer shouldn't be drawing more than about 15mA, so I don't think a fuse would be needed.
For those who are more experienced with electronics, obviously, you can just splice the wire and either tape it or solder it. To make that kind of splice, there's basic instructions for it on the Security alarms thread. I should have photos/installation tips up on a website in a week or so for both the buzzer hard-wiring and the alarm/remote starter install.
So far, I was able to hook-up the keyless entry portion and main alarm of my LCD pager system, and I must say, I'm very impressed with the range of the remotes, and the "nifty-ness" of having confirmation of the doors locking/arming, or just being able to check the status of the alarm. (Sorry for the long post folks.)
Tony
jc58-- Your "new" Sonata's transmission is still in the learning phase. I heard on a radio show that a logic/learning trans sets in after about 500 miles, but I'm not sure. Try to drive the way you normally drive for it to learn your style of accelerating, etc. I've noticed too that in a jam, there's a slight delay and then it downshifts hard to get you the power needed when you floor it. I've also occasionally experienced slightly more engine vibration in the lower gears when accelerating hard, but not all the time, and certainly not enough to alarm me for now.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
I still can't get over how nice this car is for the price. Like I had indicated I got a 2001 LS with auto, option package 10, floor mats, mud guards and sun roof wind screen. The sticker was $19,484 and before taxes I got it for $15,225. Out the door it was $16,212.
People talk about how it is not worth as much as a Camry if you try and trade it in, but if you take into consideration what you paid for it, it comes out a wash. A Camry with equivelant options would run at least $23,500 or so, about $8,000 difference. And I had rented a 4 cylinder Camry and yes it was nice, but I am not sure it felt any more refined than the Sonata. And a 4 cylinder without moon roof runs about $17,500, 2 grand more than my 6 cylinder with moon roof, upgraded stereo, etc.
And it is true, check out the Camry/Accord forum, and they too have problems.
I bought the 2001 as while I like the front end of the 2002, I do not like the rear nearly as much as the 2001, it looks like a Mazda 626. I see hints of a Jag in the rear of the 2001.
Well, considering the great price I got, the $800 auto trans rebate, and the 0.9% financing, the Sonata clearly ended up being the better deal for me. In addition to paying about $5000 less than an XG, I'm also saving a few thousand dollars on the financing.
Still, the more potent engine, the auto climate control, the Shiftronic am I too much of a techno geek to crave such things? After all, the XG 300 is still a Sonata at heart.
Don't mistake what I'm saying. I LOVE my Sonata. But would I love the XG 300 even more?
For those who've considered the replacement Superbrite LEDs from Varad, they appear to be the same used in dash lighting, as the green one I have matches the Sonata's green ignition switch light and driver's keylock light.
For anyone installing a system, use duct tape to tape off any bare metal edges exposed after you remove the driver's kickpanel/lower dash. I thought I could be careful enough, but it'll cut you and you won't even know it until later when it hurts, cutting just like a bunch of long paper cuts.
Even though they'll pop up a little, the empty switches near the coin holder are NOT removable from the top, you must remove the surrounding main trim section and then remove the 4 screws underneath to get them out. Each empty switch is cross-braced directly in the center underneath, so keep this in mind if you plan to mount a LED or other switch there.
The Sonata has more personality and character than the XG which seems too much of a composite, designed that way for marketting purposes.
Thanks for the interest. Actually, it has been a comedy of errors hooking up with the service manager so we can discuss it. I have been too busy to get in for a face-to-face and he and I both keep missing each others' calls like ships in the night. On top of that, he was out sick for a couple of days and I was out of town for awhile. But my schedule is cleared for tomorrow so I should have something to report back soon.
My door buzzing/vibration silencing efforts have paid off and the only thing that remains is the long-term insurance of lining the door panels with Dyna-Mat. I have placed the order with Crutchfield but it hasn't arrived yet. With all of the rain sweeping in with clock-like regularity from the West, it may be some time before I can do the install. I will let everyone know how effective this is in this regard as well as any appreciable audio improvement.
Anybody have any idea what the hell is going on at T-H-C? Did the guy who runs it die? Go bankrupt? Jeesh!