Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

phuang · August 2003

Gas smell problem:
Thanks to Dave2003 about the Honda Care Contract information. Yes, I do have the Honda Care Contract and I am still waiting for the dealer to call me about the parts to fix the gas smell problem. I will then talk to them about the extended warranty (the Honda Care Vehicle Service Contract).

Break Clunk and Click:
I also have the rear break Clunk and Click problem, the dealer loosen the rear break drum and the problem is little better but it is still there. They said if I want to solve the problem they need to replace the drum (Honda has a service Bulletin on it). Since I am out of warranty, I will have to pay for it even when I told them that I have the extended warranty, so I am learning to live with it.

mullins87 · August 2003

My parents have an '02 or '03 Ody. The dealership forgot to reset the "oil change light," I forgot exactly what the light says. I thought I could turn off the light using my scanner. When I pulled the codes, P1676 came up on the display. Well, thinking that was the regular maintenance light code, I erased the code. Well, the light came back on, but the code was gone.

I did a search and found your discussion of this DTC back in November. I am going back down there to scan it again. If it's still there, I'll send dad to the dealership.

I have two questions: 1. None of the other usual SES, TCS or ABS lights were on. Should they have been? You're previous discussion leads me to think at least one should be. 2. Is there any way that I can reset the maintenance light so dad won't have to drive 1.5 hours just to get the dealer to do it?

dave2003 · August 2003

There are instructions in the owner's manual on how to reset the Check Engine Light.

mullins87 · August 2003

I'll check the manual myself. My father claimed to have read the manual and swears that it said nothing about the light.

I didn't get a chance to run down to my parents tonight to check to see if the P1676 DTC had come back. I'll let you know if it did.

fibber2 · August 2003

but I think you are refering to an amber 'Maintanence Required' (or something like that) light? If so, my '02 manual does have instructions for killing it, and I did have to...

Steve

dave2003 · August 2003

Yes, my mistake. The procedure in the manual is for resetting the "Maintenance Required" light, not the check engine light. Hopefully, this is what mullins87 is talking about when he refers to the "oil change light." Sorry for any confusion.

auburn63 · August 2003

The code is for a ABS/TCS signal malfunction with the PCM. Either intermitant failure or an actual problem in the wiring or units.

If it is just the maintanace light then you can start with the key off, push the odometer reset button and hold it while you turn the ignition switch on for 20 secounds then back off, then release the button. On restart light should be off, if not repeat..

stebu · August 2003

I have to laugh whenever I hear another one of these special "procedures" that are many times kept secret from the consumer altogether. They always remind me of the secret handshakes my friends and I used when we were like 8 yrs old.

grandtotal · August 2003

This particular special procedure is published in the owner's manual. I agree in general though, try finding the procedure to make your car recognise a new wireless remote key. I was told it's "too technical", turns out it's a bit of a chicken dance but not difficult and certainly not $70 worth of labour (not talking about a Honda dealer now by the way).

mullins87 · August 2003

Thanks for the procedure. Now I don't have to spend an hour or so searching the manual.

I think the dealers, knowing most people don't read the manuals, keep these procedures secret just to boost their service dept. business. After all, if you have to bring it in to get the light reset, you might as well let them change the oil too.

auburn63 · August 2003

being that I work at a dealer and all and like to see cars come in

,, Anyhow no problem gald to be of service..

fibber2 · August 2003

As one 'in the know', could you please shed a little light on the rear brake clunk (forward to reverse to forward transition) on '02/'03 rear disk assembly. As I posted, my dealer said it was built-in play in the caliper/carrier to keep the slider action from rusting. He had a service writers advisory that he waved as he told me it was normal, but I couldn't really read it.

Thanks!

Steve

pf2003 · August 2003

New to the board and new to Honda. I recently bought a 2003 LX (after driving Windstars for many years) and now have 2800 miles on it. It has a light to medium engine tapping noise under light acceleration, which sounds like valve noise or possibly an exhaust leak. At first I was told to use high octane gas, it was engine knock. The noise has gotten louder and premium gas has not helped. The valve type sound is louder when the engine is warm and varies in loudness.

The now dealer says it's the valves and wants to adjust them (but the dealer is still not sure what the problem actually is).

Opening up the engine after 2800 miles doesn't impress me, considering I bought the vehicle to avoid this type of service. Does anyone know what is involved in a Honda valve adjustment and whether it opens the engine up to oil leaks ?

Has anyone had similar problem and it wasn't valves ? Please let me know

robsdad1 · August 2003

I thought Ody was to get an oil and filter change at 3750 miles but a local dealer told me today that first service is 5000 miles.

What do they say in your neck of the woods?

Your comments appreciated.

auburn63 · August 2003

Honda as of now is calling it normal however that may change as they have came out with new clips for the CR-V.The problem is usally in the fronts on most Hondas but I guess the rears could also make it as they are designed with the same amount of play or movement in them as the fronts. You can minimize the noise with disc brake quiet on the backing and shims of the pads in the meantime.

pf2003
Valve covers do have to come off so yes there is a chance of a leak when done if not done correctly but I wouldnt let that stop you from getting it done it is not really all that hard and all should be ok when done..good luck

robsdad1
I thought the first change was at 10,000miles in the owners manual and if not it is @7500 miles . No need to do any sooner.

popper · August 2003

When I apply the brakes, I'm getting a bad shudder in the steering wheel. I've ignored it for a while, but now it's become intolerable. I was told brake pads still at about 50% last time they were rotated. Any Ideas?

mullins87 · August 2003

Have the rotors turned. What's happening is the rotors have become warped from the many heating/cooling cycles that take place everytime you use the brakes.

Also, you mentioned a recent tire rotation. If the wheels were torqued improperly, that will also warp the rotors.

fibber2 · August 2003

Thanks for your take on the brake noise. If you get an update about revised clips (I assume you are refering to the anti-rattle spring clips for the pads themselves), could you let us know?

Steve

mahoney53 · August 2003

I'm experiencing a problem that has not been fixed by a trip to the Honda dealership's service dept & would like to know if anyone else has had this problem. When driving at speeds less than 40 mph, when I need to decelerate slightly, but not enough to require braking, I feel a loss of power to the accelerator. At its worst, I feel that there is no responsiveness to the accelerator for a moment - as if I have had a total loss of power - but then it recovers. More commonly, I feel a slight bucking as I ease off the accelerator (say, when someone pulls out in front of me and I don't need to brake, but need to slow down a bit). This can be felt by the passenger as well as the driver. I never experience this at highway speeds. The mechanic was unable to recreate this problem on a test drive - he may not have been going slowly enough. The car has almost 50,000 miles on it and this problem just started recently. Appreciate any suggestions, and thanks.

ykwang · August 2003

I got my 03 in last Sept. I noticed that when I started my engine cold, I fell irregular vibration, light thumps during warm up. After engine speed lower than 1000rpm, everything backs to normal. It felt like engine misfired due to the program set up in the cold start. I live in Michigan and park the van in the garage.
I had drive the minivan for almost a year with 7.5k miles on, but the problem is still there. I wonder if any of you had experienced such things. Is it normal or not? Thanks in advance.

popper · August 2003

Thanks for the advice on the rotors. What should I expect to pay for this service?

mullins87 · August 2003

Well, I do all the maintenance on my vehicles. If I take the rotors off, then a local machine shop will turn them for $10-15 depending on which shop. I can't imagine more than an hour labor on a job like this. Rates around here are about $55/hour, so about $85!

If you or someone you know can take the rotors off, you'll save a ton of money. It is not a difficult job at all.

mullins87 · August 2003

I scanned dad's Ody again to see if the "P1676" DTC came back. It has not. Should I just consider this a random problem and not concern myself with it, or should I scan it every now and then?

auburn63 · August 2003

I think you should just let it ride for now and see if the light comes on again in the future...

npf · August 2003

I have the same problem and they tell me the problem is the tires.

phil47 · August 2003

Hi John. Due to intermittent problems with the power doors on my 2001 EX, my dealer will be replacing the junction switches on both my doors this week. I was wondering, in your experience are the new switches better and have they reduced annoying problems on the power doors where you have replaced them?

Thanks in advance!

brymil · August 2003

I just found out that my '01 Ody with 52k miles has a blown intake gasket and will cost over $500 to repair. The dealer days it could have been caused by a previous dealer installing an EGR valve and could have scratched the gasket surface. Does this sound reasonable?

On a side note, this is the first Honda I have owned and have had more problems than any American car I have had. Within the first 20k miles I had a battery cell go dead, had to have the lower control arm bolts tightened, new EGR valve, all new injectors installed (I only use Shell brand gas), valves adjusted, and side doors adjusted. Certainly not what I was expecting from a Honda product.

auburn63 · August 2003

The new switches are a little bit bigger and have stronger tension on them so they do stay in contact with each other better durring body movement and flexes. There are other things that fail in the doors which cause it not to close the last little bit. If you are having problems with the door not closing fully(only the first latch position) you may want to consider a new latch in that door also as we see the closer motors or their microswitches in the latch fail.Good luck

brymil
Sounds just a bit expensive if all their going to do is the intake manifold gasket. The gasket itself cant be all that much and the labor should only be like 1 hour, 2 hours tops.

jwg7 · August 2003

I purchased a 2003 EX-RES in spring this year and have already picked up a few paint chips on the front driver's side fender only. It does not feel like there is a very thick layer of paint on there when I feel the chips. Since the van only has 2000 miles on it I am wondering if it is just bad luck or if perhaps the paint is too thin in that area... Does anyone know what the proper thickness 'mils' the paint should be applied to? Has anyone else had problems with easy paint chipping?

lapvn · August 2003

There are a group of us (5) who purchased their 2003 Ody in early of this year. What we have noticed is that the cowl is not flush all throughout the windshield.

Now I know for a fact that there was a problem with our Integra's inside cowl letting water in. Seeming that the cowl now is not FULLY stuck on the windshield, does anyone know of any problems.

COWL- is the big long black piece at the bottom of the windshield where the wiper arms stick out.

pf2003 · August 2003

I have a 2003, my first Honda with 3000 miles with a number of stone chips on the front bumper and hood. Stone chips are inevitable, but on the bumper portion it seems like the chips are larger than normally expected. Some people have suggested the paint Honda uses is brittle (not enough acrylics and plasticizers in paint) which results in more/bigger stone chips because the paint doesn't clearcoat/paint doesn't flex on impact as much. I don't know if this is true , but the solution is buy touch-up paint from your dealer to match the van colour and an extra fine tote-painting brush (because the brush in the touch-up paint bottle is useless) and cover them. I ordered some Mother's California Paint Chip Repair to try. It's suppose to remove the blob effect which happens when using touch-up paint.

pf2003 · August 2003

I'm not alone, my first Honda, with more problems than any North American vehicle I have owned. The first 3000 miles have offered me the following Honda experience, a dead battery, rattles in driver/passenger doors/glass, after 3 tries rattles are still there, plus rattles in sliding door, a starting problem - van wouldn't start on several occasions, a pull to the left which an alignment will solve, the valves were adjusted to try to eliminate a continuous spark knock or valves type sound coming from engine. Certainly not what I was expecting from a Honda product.

You indicated that you had all new injectors installed, what was the reason for the new injectors ???

I'm trying to find a solution to the engine noise, which sounds like continuous spark knock or valve tapping in the engine. The valve adjustment done, offered no improvement and dealer doesn't know what to do next. Since I've only had the vehicle for 2 months, I don't cherish the thought of 4 more years of listening to this noise. Looking for ideas !!!!

aspesisteve · August 2003

if you're talking about the gasket that goes around the windshield, then, yes, it does not go flush with the windshield.

I just replaced a broken windshield ('02 Ody) and thought the guy installed it wrong. I checked out a neighbors gasket and it too was not flush.

nberryman · August 2003

I have had a 2003 Honda Odyssey EX for 3000 miles now. For some reason I am unable to get greater than 13-14 mpg even thought the sticker says it should be 18-25. One of these tanks of gas was even 90% highway. I can not believe that it would get this poor of mileage being driven carefully. We had a 1999 odyssey which got closer to 23 average.

Anyone have a similar experience or thoughts on this?

tcoulthart · September 2003

I recently had my '02 Ody in for the 30K service and mentioned the load road/wind noise from the windshield, they could not replicate the noise but did identify some deformed upper wind shield molding and a Technical service bulletin related to the noise Bulletin #00-0064.

sutton60 · September 2003

Yes, nberryman, we also have a 2003 Honda Odyssey that is getting very poor gas mileage. We are taking it into the dealer tomorrow for its 3,750 mileage maintenance and have asked them to look into this problem. The standard answer is that your driving habits dictate your gas mileage, but why then did my wife get 18+ mpg from a 12 year old Pontiac Trans Sport minivan. We are very disappointed. I will put the dealer's response to our problem on this discussion board tomorrow!

robr2 · September 2003

It takes some time for Honda engines to break in. I wouldn't be suprised to hear the dealer tell you to wait until you hit 10K miles before complaining.

Good Luck.

hondavanman · September 2003

Anyone else experiencing "bucking" when driving at a constant speed of 50-60 MPH at 1400-1600 RPM? The engine appears to be missing at that speed.

I've noticed a few people mentioning this problem but no seems to be able to find a dealer who is able to diagnose the problem.

Car is 02 Odyssey with 24K miles.

Any suggestions?

auburn63 · September 2003

Either take my suggestion and pop in a new EGR valve as well as make sure its passage way is clear or have your tech/dealer watch your data list with their computer. If you have them watch the data list they will probably see the EGR lift value go below 1.0v (more like .04) this means the lift sensor is bad thus the EGR needs changed. The low referance voltage confusses the ECM and with a bad input you get a bad output and what you have described is usally the result...Good luck

grandtotal · September 2003

I have noticed something similar driving on a light throttle at around 1400RPM in 4^th gear. I lose power for maybe a second or a little longer, tach drops to 1100RPM or so before engine picks up again as if nothing has happened. My question for you is this, does my dealer need to have equipment attached to the car at the time this occurs or is data saved that they can access after the event? I cannot cause this to happen on demand.

brymil · September 2003

The injectors were installed because of rough idling and difficult cold starting. The dealer blamed it on the brand of gas I was using--Shell. I did not believe it for a second. I have also experienced rattles and they had to adjust my valves--all in attempt to fix the problem noted above which was eventually solved by the new injectors. In addition, I had to have the front bumper repainted due to the paint peeling. Now, to make matters worse, I had to bring the van back to the dealer for the same problem (post # 2990) after they charged $450 for a blown intake gasket. Now they tell me that the gaskets must have been defective and also...that my alternator needs replacement. Fortunately it is covered under an extended warranty but this will result in 6 days of lost usage in less than two weeks. Compounding the problems are the worst service department I have ever dealt with.

I know it would be foolish but I am seriously considering trading the Odyssey in for an American van despite being a poor financial decision due to depreciation, etc.!

livel28 · September 2003

Hi-
I have a 99 odyssey which is needing a new transmission.. thank goodness for the extended warranty... they will cover it all except for the rental car I will need while it's done...
ANYWAY_ while I was waiting I walked to the toyota dealer to see about the new Sienna... they were SO obnoxious I left and ended up back at Honda talking to the sales people about a new 2003... they insist there are no transmission problems with the 2003 and that the road/wind noise has been cut down. Can any of you with 2003 EX models tell me your experiences?
THANKS!!!!!!!

auburn63 · September 2003

They will need to have the problem act up as they are monitoring it, otherwise it is just a shot in the dark..

grandtotal · September 2003

Thanks. Unfortunately, that's what I expected you to say. I'll just have to wait for it to get worse.

srb123 · September 2003

Hi Gary,
Your mail server isn't able to establish an SMTP connection. Please send me an email and your new address if you see this message. Thanks.
Sam

kledford1 · September 2003

I have a 2003 Odyssey with 9800 miles purchased new in March, 03. It has leaked power steering fluid since the day I brought it home. When you turn off the ignition switch to the lock position and open the driver's door it beeps to remind you to take out the key--only problem is when you remove the key it keeps beeping--even after you close the door and walk away with key in hand it still keeps beeping. When this happens, it will not let you lock the vehicle with the remote control. You have to keep working with the switch until you get it to stop beeping. It doesn't do this every day. Some days work fine and others don't. The TCS light has come on and stayed on several times on sunny days with dry driving conditions. Did I just get a lemon or do these problems sound familiar to anyone?? If I had known I was going to have to take the vehicle in to the dealer every other week, I would have bought a Chrysler which is known for having multiple problems!! VERY FRUSTRATED AND UNHAPPY WITH HONDA!!

pf2003 · September 2003

Welcome to Honda, the best minivan on the market. I have a list of rattles(doors, glass, glovebox), alignment and tire problems, a tape deck that changes direction at will, a gas gauge that doesn't work and to top it off, a significant engine problem which they can't resolve. Considering I drive a Ford (Aerostar / Windstar) for the past 20 years, nothing has compared to the frustration and disappointment in vehicle ownership as the 03 Odyssey and I paid a lot more money for this frustration. If I could turn back the clock, I would quickly settle for the Ford and the excellent service I received from the dealership, something I haven't received from Honda. I may get better re-sale value at trade time, but I will have earned every last dollar in time, effort and frustration.

wpalkowski · September 2003

Hopefully you've got another Honda dealer somewhere near you. If so, go there, explain the problems you've got with the van, and your frustration with the other Dealer's Service dept.. If you do it in calm rational manner, I'm sure the other Dealer would love to have your warranty business now in hopes of retaing you as a customer later.
As far a tape player goes, we had similar problem, but it seemed to be confined a to a certain bunch of tapes. Tape would be playing then suddenly autoreverse. We fixed it by fully rewinding, and the fully fast forwarding the tape a few times in the Odyssey's player. Somehow the tape tension had gotten messed up and caused the player to reverse. Rewinding reseated the tape properly, and now that it was correctly tensioned the reversing problem stopped. Also be careful leaving tapes out in hot sun, that can cause problems too.

user777 · September 2003

FWIW,
our '03 LX had two rattles which were quickly diagnosed and fixed by a dealership close to our home.

driver's side, when we got above 45mph, there was a rattle sound like a cable on metal (initially it sounded like it was comming from inside the driver's door or up near the roof rail, ie near the top of the glass), but after listening very closely, my wife and I both concluded it was comming from down near the driver's left foot...hmmm. it turned out to be a hood release cable which wasn't attached properly.

passenger side, when going over bumps, there was an ever so faint ticking but was not constant / consistent. the service technician said it had something to do with the contact between the passenger strut and strut tower...the strut was evidently rubbing on some welds. this was fixed by some strut disassembly, the application of some lubricant and re-assembly.

i agree with wpalkowski. search out another dealer for assistance.

also, i'd have to agree that with tape players, sometimes you must perform a FF/RW cycle on cassettes used on other decks. every player is different, and it's possible that the tape is experiencing too much friction / interference inside the cassette body becase of how the tape spooled when in another machine. put a pencil in one side of the cassette and turn it. if there's any resistance, this is the probable culprit. if resistance is significant, the cassette body has probably gotten warped, and a FF/RW is probably not going to help.

nberryman · September 2003

We have noticed the thud when stopping or slowing down abruptly also. We had a 1999 odyssey before this and it had the same issue.

I beleive that it is the gas in the tank shifting as I have noticed that it is not nearly as pronounced when on empty ( or full for that matter).

NB

Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Honda Odyssey: Problems &amp; Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)