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Dodge/Plymouth Neon Maintenance and Repair

Just bought it for my 15 year old daughter. after giving it some acceleration, the engine is making a clicking noise on passenger side and has very slow acceleration. Any advise or ideas as to what could of happened?
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Comments

  • I had the thermostat and a hose replace a couple of days ago. Now my car is idling high then low,
    then high again really fast.
  • mickeyrommickeyrom Posts: 936
    Is it possible that your AC is kicking in?
  • Any one have some tips. I replaced my timing belt since my car had 150k miles and was never replaced before. I made sure i was at TDC before I replaced the belt and also after I put the new belt back on. At rare times when my car does start it idles very low at 900 rpm and if i drive it when ever i brake it drops to about 500rpm and if i brake hard it stalls out on me. I took the timing belt off and replaced the belt again going step by step with a haynes manual and i am still having the same problem. Am I supposed to adjust the time if thats even possible since it is a DIS? Someone please give me some input.
  • Hi yes the car will have to be timed again my guess is that it is probally close to being in time as it starts but being off even by a little will cause it to do that
    make sure the timing marks on both camshafts are pointing towards each other and the timing mark on the crank lines up with the mark on the timing belt cover that will put it in time you will just have to look out that the pullys dont move when the belt is put on hope that this works for you!
  • i just bought a dodge neon 2002 r/t (used) and everything is stock, and i was wondering if anyone can help me and see what i can do to make it better in everything such as performace, modification, and ect..
    please help me out with suggestions
    Thank you for your time..
  • I have a 2004 Dodge Neon SXT that I want to make some changes to. First off, I would like to change the speedometer background disk from miles to kph (I'm in Germany with the military). Second, I would like to install a wiper on the rear window. Is any of this possible, and if so, where can I get additional information and parts about it? Thank you so much for your help!!!
  • HAVE THE RIGHT CV AXLE CHECKED THE RIGHT SIDE IS THE MAIN PULLING SIDE AND IS THE ONE THAT USUALLY GOES OUT FIRST. HOPE THIS HELPS
  • 2003 NEON SXT 81,000 MILES... I HAVE OIL ON CYL. #3 PLUG TOP AND BOTTOM. TINY BIT OF SMOKE ON START UP WITH A TAP FOR ABOUT A SECOND. I CAN'T SEEM TO KEEP OIL IN THIS THING ITS GOING THROUGH 1 QUART PER 500 MILES. I DRIVE THAT IN 4 DAYS GOING TO WORK.I CHANGED THE VALVE COVER GASKETS AND GROMMITS AND IT STILL IS NO BETTER. P.S. PERFORMANCE HAS NOT LACKED A BIT BUT I DO PULL MY PLUG OUT EVERY WEEK AND CLEAN IT BEFORE ITS TOO LATE. ANY THOUGHTS?
  • I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF THE RUBBER HOSE FROM YOUR INTAKE TO YOUR AIR BOX IS LEAKING OR HAS A HOLE. I HAD THAT ISSUE
  • There is a bright yellow one sitting at a nearby Car lot,and I keep looking at it...should I be, and what would be a reasonable price for one? I drove one before and it sure was fun,although I did miss having cruise control.
  • It sounds to me like you might have a bad valve seal. That will basically allow oil to drip into the cylinder on the intake stroke. It's a bit more involved to change a valve seal, but there should be some forums to help you figure out how to do it. It might also explain the oil on the top of the plug, but I think it's more likely that the valve cover seal for the plug tube was damaged somehow.
  • Is it an auto trans or manual. That's going to make a big difference if we don't know.
  • A very cheep and simple way to do it would be to find a neon in a junk yard there with the gauges you want. Pull the gauges and install them into your car. You'll probably also need to pull the pulse generator out of the junked car and put it in yours. It's not that hard to do and there should be diagrams online to show you where/how to do it. As far as the wiper blade on the rear window, that's going to be alot more difficult. It will require you to take a wiper assembly out of something that has a rear wiper. You'll have to build a bracket to mount it to your trunk lid, cut a hole for the wiper arm mount to pass through, and make sure to angle it so that the arm will keep a wiper blade in contact with the window without breaking anything. NOT all that easy, but not impossible for someone who's competent with a welder, drill, and an angle finder.
  • The best way to upgrade without too much problem or expense is bolt ons.

    The first and most important thing you need to address is the air flow. Installing an aftermarket air filter and inner cooler will give you a few ponies and probably give you better gas millage.

    The next thing you will want to address is the exhaust. An aftermarket manifold and 3" pipe will give you more increase without too much trouble, but anything larger might cause trouble.

    After those are addressed, you'll want to move on to fuel delivery. While the stock system is competent, you'll want to install a set of higher pressure injectors and a stronger fuel pump before you get to crazy with the mods.

    After you've done that, it gets a bit more involved and the difficulty level goes up with it. An under drive pulley system will free up even more ponies, but you need to make sure that you check to see that the alternator won't be affected. Most of the under drive kits out there will not cause a problem, but there are some that will.

    A small but effective, if not expensive mod is to replace the pcm of the car. There are places that will do it for you, for a price, and send the pcm back to you. I'd suggest that you make DAM sure you did all the other mods you want to first so that they can program it to work with your mods, and so it won't throw trouble codes left and right.

    By now you're pushing probably +30-50 hp and a similar increase in torque, so you will probably want to upgrade your c.v. shafts. A problem even with the non turbo neon's that people seem to have is that they can be over-torqued by even a stock car at times.

    At this point, you'll probably also want to address your breaking system. With all that power increase, the stock breaks aren't going to cut it. Replacing the stock ones with drilled and slotted roters front and back is the best way to go and will reduce the rotating mass at the drive wheels. You might see it in your 0-60 eta if you're lucky, but this mod is more for safety then anything.

    Unless you want to start tearing into your engine like replacing the crank/cam shafts, that's about the extent of what you can do.
  • There is a tool sold at most auto parts shops specifically designed to lock the cam shafts in place when replacing the timing belt. It looks like a large H set on it's side when installed. It makes the job much more easy and can all but ensure a proper alignment for the installation of the belt on the cam cogs.
  • 99neon99neon Posts: 3
    My issue started with the driver side rear blinker/brake light stopping and the front light flashing fast, after bulb changes, checking bulb sockets, and even bypassing the driver side left panel flasher I still can't figure out what is wrong. When I bypassed that socket the left blinker seemed to work from inside the car but actually both rear blinkers were just dimly blinking and the radio clock blinked with it, this also caused the left blinker to stay lite inside the car if the headlights where on and you can't turn it on, I put the old socket back on and now its back to the front flashing fast the side also still the rear is dead. The right side works fine though and the hazard lights work, also I don't know if they are related but recently the one or two speakers on the left that worked stopped and we get kind of a buzzing sound when the door is opened along with a shock when we step out.
  • sounds a bit like the grounds for that rear light are bad. I'd suggest taking the light out and tracing the ground back to where it attaches. For the speaker, try taking the connection loose and see if that clears up the other speakers. If it does, trace the wires as well.
  • 99neon99neon Posts: 3
    If I found the right one then the ground goes up and around to just behind the trunk, it plugs onto a clip there but it looked ok. I'm guessing this same problem is what keeps my interior light from coming on when the driver side door is opened but it does come on when you open the passenger side door. I also found some water in the trunk and back floor board recently as if a seal is leaking, we had a couple of days of heavy rain so it must have gotten in, not sure if it could have had an affect on the blinker situation or not. Is their any chance that the flasher relay could cause this problem at all I have not changed it yet as I thought if it was bad the flashers would not work period but I'm not 100% on that.
  • The flasher relay should work for both at the same time. They're pretty cheap to replace so I'd try that. As far as the water, it's your tail light seals. I'd recommend picking up a tube of silicone, pulling the light off, putting a THICK bead of calk behind the light, then reinstalling it. If you don't then water will continue to get in a mold will grow in your carpet. The light problem could be the pressure switch in the door. If it jams or fails the light will stay on. You should be able to reach the switch by un-clipping the b-pillar and reaching through the hole that is revealed when it's pulled away. You might have to remove the seat belt pivot point but that's done with a cheap torxs bit from any auto parts store.
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