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From the inside, remove the strap handle. Do this by popping off the rectangual covers at each end to expose the screws. Once the handle is off, you can remove the trim and see the latch connections. There should be a connecting rod from that pivot to each side latch. The rods merely slip into the holes.
If both rods are on and the mechanism articulates properly when the actuator is pressed (from the outside,) then one latch rod must be off at the latch itself.
They have had the van on the lift several times and cannot see the vibration when the van is running on the lift at speed.
The dealer says that they also have a second Astro van with similar problem.
Any clues as to what else it could be? I suggested that they look at the pinion bearings in the rear.
Thanks. Bill
Many thanks!
I just started 2 weeks ago to get a similar whining comming from the front end of my 2000 GMC Safari. Doesn't appear to be a wheel bearing since the whining noise stays the same in a right or left turn. I have been using a thruway on/off ramp as my gage for that since you can do about 30-40MPH. Front and rear diff are full and the transfer case is full. Transmission was rebuilt less than 3000mi ago.
Did you find the source of the whining noise?
Any input would be appreciated.
T hanks!
I have a 1998 GMC Safari that started setting off code 175 (right bank is running rich) a while back. My mechanic thought that I needed to replace the O2 sensor. I replaced all 3 ($128 x 3 + sales tax) and it did not set codes for a few weeks. The code is back again and I don't trust my mechanic to do further diagnostic work. I also don't trust most repair shops or dealerships but I am afraid that I will have to break down and take it in. Can anyone here recommend a repair shop or dealership in Houston, TX.
Thank You
I am having pretty much the same problems with my 92 safari awd. It will start and run fine but when you drive it stalls out. It then needs a bit of time to cool down.
Iv had a pressure test on the fuel pump, new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, coil, ignition modual, distriutor and rotor, but nothing has helped. Does any one have any ideas that could point me in the right direction please???
Here is my problem also. No brake lights when peddle is pushed. I replaced the brake switch and still no brake lights. I read on another site about the "Multi-Function switch" needing to be replaced but what is confusing to me is the Haynes manual descibes replacing the "MultiFunction switch lever".Is this attached to the MF(this is about how I feel about this van at the moment and why it is for sale :mad: ) switch? This makes some sense because when I press the brakes with the blinker on the radio blinks but the lights don't blink on the driver side. Also the high mount(3rd) brake light goes out but when the right turn signal is selected the 3rd light come on. So some "multi functions are out of whack it seems.
This van was broken down and I was at teh end of my ropoe and paid a guy $200 and was told he "wired it up right". Its running but has no brake lights. I am about to go back to him but would like to know if anyone has any ideas about the MF switch; its location and removal/replacement?
I recently had the rear end replaced due to a bad diff (as per mechanic). There was a constant noise coming from the rear when I accelerated. Now I'm getting a thumping sound from the rear when I release the brake after stopping. I've been back and forth w/ the mechanic as he does not seem to know what the problem is. First he thought and still thinks its the brakes not releasing properly. I think it may be a bad rear end from the salvage.
Can anyone provide guidance as it's getting riduculous going back and forth to the mechanic.
Thxs.
What would the mechanic need to do to fix this problem?
The issue I have is that I never had this problem before the rear was changed. Seems to me now that one things goes in the Astro everything else will start going. Is it worth the hassle and the money? I'm betting you've had the same other issues that I've been experiencing & reading about with the astro's: door locks not working, driver side windows getting stuck, abs light & brake light staying on, etc.....
i replaced all most every thing on my van.
thanks email is mccreary1980@yahoo.com.
thanks for your time
The problem with mine is that it doesn't happen automatically. The van needs to be driven awhile before it starts acting up, especially in bumper to bumper traffic or if I'm at a light and I release the brake.
Don't know if I want to keep investing in the vehicle if something else just keeps on going.
Yes. One can easily remove the "factory mush" rear suspension. One method is to install Air Bags (like the ride right system) and the other method is to install Timbrens. If wondering, Timbrens are like air bags without air inside them.
And if you want, you can also install Timbrens on the front - if you want to reduce suspension depth and ease of movement on its front. But installing Timbrens on the rear is a great first step.
With Timbrens, your van's unloaded ride comfort is NOT changed. However, your van's rear sag (from loaded weight of onboard cargo or trailer tonque weight) is removed. And the best part is, the more downward pressure on the Timbrens, the more the Timbrens work. If wondering, I have Timbrens (2,000 lbs verison) on the rear of my 2001 Safari van, and don't leave home without them. Seriously, best suspension improvement product I ever bought for my van. I'd buy it again - without hesitation. For more details, surf:
http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/application-pdfs/GMRASTB.pdf
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=af04.jpg&.src=ph-
Hope this helps...
.
Hopefully this is the end.
Thanks for your time and input.
FYI, I reponded to rmccreary question with respect to the mechanic doing something else to try and fix the problem (see#1643)
Thanks for your time & input
Just noticed... My first post was a reply to "#179 of 1646 Beef-up suspension by drumcircle Aug 25, 2001 (4:29 pm)"
Regarding the noise on your van....
I don't know if the "thumpy noise" in your specific van is from bottoming out. If the rear of your van's suspension is bottoming out so hard that it's hitting its factory hard rubber "bump stops", then the answer is yes. 2,000 Timbrens SES softer rubber (that replaces the hard plastic bump stops) will eliminate that "bottom out" hard bump noise. I find 2,000 lbs rating is good upgrade for average passengers and rear cargo (in both Safari and Astro models). The 6,000 lbs Timbrens (for the Astro / Safari) are better for commercial vans. Cargo Vans that are loaded down with steel pipe and cement bags - where rear rider comfort doesn't really matter.
For pricing of Timbrens, may I suggest you do an internet search. Like any product, prices do vary. I can state the purchase price for Timbrens SES units is less then air bags.
As stated above, I have 2,000 lbs rated Timbren SES units on my 2001 Safari van and my buddy from Toronto has them on his 2003 Astro 2WD van. He pulls a Tent Trailer and I do lots of cargo hauling and utility trailer pulling. With Timbren SES units, NO more rear sag. Under load, the rear of the van is near level.
If wondering... Some folks install Air Bags (like Ride Right) system. They are more expensive then Timbren SES units but you can adjust them. However, if the air bag gets a leak (most do over time), you have to get it fixed. Timbrens is an "install it and leave it" product. Big what every product works best for you.
To determine if your van is bottoming out too much (as a short term test), remove its factory bump stops and try to duplicate that "thumpy noise". If no more noise, you found the cause of the "thumpy sound" on your van. Using a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench under 10 minutes, you can remove the factory bump stops yourself. Do remember to re-install these bump stops after your "noise investigation" test.
Hope this helps as well....
.
DLM1
My previous 1995 Safari van had simular "start / no-start" problems. When warm or hot, it would run great. Had the odd "burp and miss-fire" but overall, it ran great. In damp or extreme cold weather, it sometimes didn't start at all. Her starter would crank and crank but she would NOT fire up. I would place an electric heater under its hood, plug in its block heater and a few hours later, she would fire right up. Almost like water in the gas and it was freezing within its CARB or fuel delivery sytem. Very strange...
My local mechanic waited until dark time, started its engine, let idle and sprayed the inside of its engine with a garden hose. Nice fine spray from bottom of engine and worked his way upwards. When he water sprayed its spark plug wiring, she "lit up" like a Christmas tree. Unseen by one's eye, my van had a bad batch of spark plug wires. Little micro-cracks and under the right cold / damp weather conditions, it would not carry the needed electricity. Spark energy to its attached spark plug.
Perhaps doing the same "spray your engine with water at dark time" might determine if spark plug or some other wiring problem as well. Worked for my previous van.
Hope this helps...
.
The astro has a problem with the original coil where it arcs to the oil dip stick tube and causes all sort of electrical problems. The high performance coil is seal better and uses high temperature plastic for the shielding so it does not where out.
dlm1
New to the forum. Just bought a '92 Safari and can't unlock the rear door. The mechanism itself inside the door seems to work fine but when I insert the key it won't turn at all. Now, the rod that you pull on to manually lock/unlock the door has been replaced with a coat hanger so at some point it stopped working for somebody and they rigged up this replacement. Still, it doesn't look like the lock itself has been changed. I was wondering if there are any Safari owners out there that have had the lock seize up or break on them. If I have to replace the lock what is the best solution?
dlm1954
dlm1954
Sounds like a bad ABS sensor on one of its front hubs. With a proper code reader, the exact hub can be confirmed under 2 minutes. However, to replace that ABS sensor, do expect to open your wallet. Those ABS sensors are expensive. My 2003 AWD van blew one ABS sensor. When the guy changed it, he said the other ABS sensor goes soon after. Approx 4 months later, its other ABS sensor blew.
The other problem could be its Braking computer. If the computer is gone, expect near $800 replacement bill. Most of the time, problems with its ABS is a front sensor. Which can be a $400 + taxes (per hub) replacement cost.
The only way to determine / "confirm the problem" is to get someone to read its internal computer code. re: Code Reader for your specific van.
For me, I pulled my 2001 AWD Safari van's ABS fuse, and drive it like a 60/70s vehicle. To me, my van never had better brakes.
Due what you think is best for you.
.
dlm1954