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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro



  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    You might want to look at a Chilton's manual. I know they made them up in til 1997. I've got an AWD 2000 Astro. No books written. Problem I fixed today was thanks to this site. Its nice to have AC on 104°F day since the damn windows will not roll down on passager side. Found the fix but with AC now, Who needs to roll the window down? Good luck.
  • giant44sgiant44s Posts: 4
    what vin code is the van?? z or w??
  • I need some help with a strange problem with my 1996 GMC Safari conversion van (120,000 miles).... Shortly after placing van in "Drive" (especially in the morning) my electric power seems to momentarily go out (if lights are on, they will blink - just once, then everything is fine).... It has done this for some time now, and has not really been a problem, however, lately, a few times it has actually killed the engine....I usually pull over, and starts it right back up... The clock resets to 1:00 and I have to set the time on the clock.....Sometimes the several of the "idiot" lights will blinks while this happens too... It has not become a major problem yet, but, I am wondering if anyone has seen this before? I really like the van and plan to keep it for a long time, however, if it becomes unreliable, I need to replace it... Thanks in advance for your help, this really is a great website.....
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,221
    Hi, mustangfan,

    You might also want to ask your question in the Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy discussion.


    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I have been chasing codes and repairing the components that would trigger a code.

    The only code (other that 12) left is...
    Problem: Code 83 - TCC PWN Solenoid Circuit Fault
    Rough idle in neutral, almost dies when put into gear. Excessive vibration

    There is no terminal F wire present at the ALDL so I couldn't check for voltage there.

    I checked the fuse for "Gages" and I see voltage across both terminals with a DMM.

    I checked the tan/black wire at the 20 pin connector at the passenger side of the transmission and there was no voltage with the key in the on position. There is supposed to be lettered markings on the male or female end of the plug but I couldn't see any indication of letters molded into either side of the plug. I also cleaned the plug with contact cleaner.

    I went to check for 12 volts across the brake switch which is described in a TCC test procedure. The procedure references one of two possible brake switches, an upper switch with a vacuum hose and two wires, or, according to the document, there is a lower switch with four wires. The document is ambiguous as to whether one or both of these systems are present on the van.

    As I am poking around trying to find these components, (which I still have to find) I put my hand on a solenoid that actuates a plunger that has a cable attached to the end and two wires attached to the solenoid, which is attached to the steering column. The solenoid gets so hot when the key is "ON" that I could not leave my finger on the solenoid for a half of one second before it burned my finger! It is located on the steering column and actuates when the brake pedal is depressed a small amount.

    I am sure that this is a problem because any solenoid that gets that hot has a problem. I do not know the name of this component to get a replacement, so...

    Question #1 - What is the name of this component so I can tell the parts store the correct name for them to look it up on their computer database?

    Question #2 - What brake connections do I need to check for voltage beyond the one listed above. I initially could not find a typical brake switch which would be a plunger with two wires connected and attached to the brake pedal directly. I can see where the typical mounts for this type of switch would be located, but nothing is in the mount.

    Question #3 – Are there other circuits that need to be tested in the TCC circuits.

    I have asked this question on other forums, with no responses. I hope that one of the readers of this post can assist me.

    Thanks, James
  • mark60mark60 Posts: 1
    On my 92 had the same's what it was

    one of the wires going to the drivers side injector inside the throttle body
    was rubbing the throttle body itself and had worn away the sheathing on
    that wire and was therefore grounding out and blowing the ECM fuse down
    on the fuse block by the drivers brake pedal.

    Bet you a buck there's a good chance that's your problem

    Mark 60 :P
  • steve34steve34 Posts: 4
    My problem was a BAD COIL! It was finally found by my mechanic friend and now runs like new.
  • Symptom = rough ide in park, terrible idle in gear. Very good engine performance as soon as it builds to about 2K RPM. Oil Pressure at idle is 30, 60 at 2K RPM.

    Only Code 12 (of course) and 83 is thrown.

    Would the bad TTC PWM Solenoid make the van run rough, or is their no relation between a bad idle and this solenoid??

    Thanks, James
  • nextlevelnextlevel Posts: 1
    Hello! I an new to the forum and I hope you guys can tell me where to get the info I need. I hate to butt in on the conversation but I was not sure where to start.

    I have a 1987 astro van and the four bolts in the steering column that hold the tilt u-joint in place have worked loose. I was able to get to two of them but the other two seem to be impossible to reach. Any help with this?

  • For years I've heard a noise from "below" when I make a turn at any speed. I've had several family members listen and I've had a professional mechanic listen. No one can pin point the noise without cracking into something down under. At first, I thought it was only my all terrain Michelin tires "roaring" as a turn was made. However my father thinks that it's something in the rear end. I looked at the differential (without taking it apart) and it was a little low on gear grease, but that problem was quickly solved and the noise is still there.

    I tow a boat frequently, but it's well within my load range. I tow an even lighter utility trailer, but again well within my load range for that vehicle.

    Possible differential gearing problems to take place? Or do I need to have it checked out NOW?

    Otherwise it's been a very solid vehicle with no major problems. FYI :)
  • kelly13kelly13 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 astro with 160,000 miles. It vibrates when put into reverse from underneath driver and passanger side, sometimes worse than others, hot or cold. No tranny work done yet. When I put into reverse there is 3/8 to 1/2 inch movement on the motor mounts. It stops vibrating when put into park or drive. You guys think motor mounts or tranny? Help
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    I would say motor mounts are your problem. When you shift into reverse the motor is moving back against the body and sending the vibrations through the floor. When it is in drive it moves back away from the body. As long as you do not have the 4L60E trans which I believe was not used until 1996 you shouldn't have too many transmission problems.
  • Folks, bear with me, I'm new here. Anyways my '95 AWD Astro has a warning light on for the anti-lock brakes. As well, the brakes are not funtioning in anti-lock mode I assume. (no little "grunting noise" from the brakes when I first start moving) I did locate a post about this problem and it said to check the ground on the ABS pump...O.K...where's the ABS pump? The last vehicle I owned had was easy then! Yes..points..a 1970 GMC pickup. Many thanks in advance to all. Audie..
  • cbpdcbpd Posts: 1
    1998 GMC safari van. The drivers side power window stalls when trying to close.

    Can not determine if the problem is the motor or switch or switch relay. I took off the door panel to expose the motor and found it seems to be rivited to the inner door pannel. The rivets look strange. They dont appear to be a fastener that can be unbolted. At this point it seems that I have to drill out the rivets to remove the motor to troubleshoot. Has anyone had a similair problem. I have not been able to a manual which explains the removal process.
    Replies to this message:
    • pf_flyer (Aug 05, 2005 11:02 am)
  • Any advice would be appreciated. We no longer have cold air coming from the front vents of our Astro. It blows cold in the rear. As we start up, the air seems to be cool but then looses all cold and just blows out hot in front. Rear stays cold. . Could there be a blocked vent or something similar. There is condensation appearing on the ground in the rear left side. but not the front at all All blowers work.. Our car expertise is limited so please keep it simple in wording.
  • tkwtkw Posts: 29
    I don't have rear A/C on my '98 but with the help of the forum, I have solved a mulfunction dash HVAC vent control problem. There are lots of recent discussions on this topic. Do a search on tkw, cob and 97expreeso's posts, you'll probably find the answer. There's also a post on Rear A/C that may also applicable here. Good luck with your search!
  • read message number 969... as for the relay, it should be located under the hood on the passenger side, if you look near the back where the rear of the hood will sit when closed you should see three relays, the pump relay is the one closese to the passenger side fender.
  • I have a 1999 gmc safari and i am at a standstill when it comes to changing the headlights, can someone please give me a hand with this
    thank you
  • tmoneytmoney Posts: 1
    I have 3 problems with my 1999 GMC Safari. First problem is the daytime running lights works for a week or two then goes out for a month then comes back. Next problem is that 2 weeks ago the radio went out no power at all about 30 minutes after that the windows stopped working. The windows are all the way down on both sides and will not come up. I have checked the fuses and as far as I can tell none are blown.

    Help and Thanks in Advance
  • Never heard of such to that extreme. I've had minor electrical glitches like that, but I traced the problem down to a very loose battery connection. I switched to the big battery post adapters that "normal" vehicles use anyway and that solved my electrical problems.

    With the running lights -- it sounds like a loose connection within the lighting harness to both the lights.

    Good luck tmoney!
  • How hard is it to change the alternator on thr 97 astro? Any tips would be helpfull.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    The alternator is easy to change. It takes longer to get the doghouse off to get access to the back side of the alternator. You can replace it without taking the dog house off. Once you get the serpentine belt off I believe there was 2 or 3 bolts holding the alternator on. I changed mine 2 years ago. What I do remember is there is a large wire harness connected to it and a small single wire. I did not see the single wire from the front and when I yanked on the alternator to remove it I broke the small wire. Knowing that there are 2 harnesses on it you should be able to remove it without taking off the dog house, good luck.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    I was told that there is a valve under the hood on the a/c lines that has a black cap on it. You are supposed to be able to turn it with a screw driver. I have something different on my 97 since it is an aftermarket unit from the conversion company. Anyhow this valve controls the cooling cycle between front and rear and sounds like it is stuck on the rear setting. I was told to have someone sit in the van while it is running and turn the rear air on and off while someone else taps the valve under the hood to get it unstuck. It may or may not work but it is a free fix. Let me know if it works for you.
  • tkwtkw Posts: 29
    Assuming you have the composite Headlamps, here's the instruction:

    Open the hood. Remove the sidemarker/turn signal lamp by removing two screws. Remove the corner reflector by removing the screw behind it. Remove the headlamp assembly by removing 3 screws. Replace bulb from behind. Caution: do not touch halogen bulb with bare hand.
  • Recently I Bought an Astro 1994 AWD, CS, automatic, with only 50k miles, (may be becose it catch a small fire and was parked a couple years), the thing is that doesn´t have the emission control label and I can´t adjust the time nor the idle speed, does anybody has a van like mine and can send me an e-mail with the info on the label, I´ll aprecciate it.
  • rsaltyrsalty Posts: 2
    Anything less than a 97 will not make you happy.2000 went downhill.Consumer reports states to many problems till 97.
  • rsaltyrsalty Posts: 2
    I also have a 97. I dont even know what a theft-lock is .Maybe you can help me. My vehical also just goes slap dead without warning from time to time. Did repacing the altenator really fix the problem ? Hope so cause I dont know what else it could be except for 50 other things ive been afraid to tackle.
  • edbd1sedbd1s Posts: 3
    So, its $450 later, my baby (1994 Chevy Astro 4.3, v-6) has gotten a new battery, sparks changed, fuel filter changed, a new electric ignition switch, and a brand new fuel pump. My mechanic even says he "fixed" the fuel pump relay (I didn't know that they could be fixed, hmm). But not fixed yet. But all the mechanics in town say not to bring it in until it has a problem. Well, that IS the problem. It only has a problem intermittently. So, of course, as soon as I get it to the mechanics, it works, but I am still getting stuck all over town. Clues: It doesn't start only sometimes. It seems to not start after stopping at several places. It rolls and rolls and won't start. It has been hot weather lately. Sometimes it starts but then suddenly dies immediately afterwards. Usually, it runs fine once it has started except for ..... Weird clue #7- The engine dies on the road when we honk the horn????
    Got some ideas?
  • I have the same problem on my 94 it stalls then if you wait a few minutes it will go I think there is some kind of self reseting fuse in the system somewhere for the PW but I have been unable to find it maybe you may have more luck on yours
  • jademjadem Posts: 1
    Is there anything in the after market world that will inprove performance and gas mileage ??
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