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THANX AND BEST REGARDS !!!
2 wd.
What lubricant is used.
Here's a few things to consider for your Astro/Safari van.
- Astro/Safaris are known for blowing fuel pumps. To reduce fuel pump stress, its recommended to keep more then 1/4 fuel in its tank. Above 50% full is even better.
* If the fuel pump blows in my current Safari, I would probably investigate the new Electric Fuel pump replacements. The same racing vehicle fuel pumps they use when converting a old technology Carb Engine into a new EFI intake system. Simply install new line (in and return), install a new fuel pump and if needed, seal the tanks existing hose intake system. Some time would be needed for hose install customization but from a while board perspective, it should work.
- Astros/Safaris have "general grade" rear ends. If you tow or haul more then 50% of its rated pulling power (or is an agressive driver off the lights), use Symthetic oils in its rear end. During its next oil engine change, I'd install synthetic in its rear axle anyway (even if not over stressing its rear end). Thus, helping its rear end last longer.
- Astros/Safaris have "general grade" tranmissions. As a suggestion, install an LPD Aux tranny cooler. Especially if you do hauling and/or towing more then 1,500 lbs with your van. LPD aux cooler size is matched to the MAX trailer load (including trailer weight) of the item you could pull. If wondering, LPD tranny coolers allow faster "warm up" and faster "cool downs" - compared to other designs of tranny coolers.
- Yes. The brakes on the Astro/Safari brand are poor. Poor compared to many cars / cross-overs and larger vehicles on today's road. Probably explains why GM introduced rear disc brakes in the 2005 models. When buying replacement brake pads, ensure the brake pads are HD / Racing grade quality. Uknown to some, there's low, average and high quality brake pads on the market. For the Astro/Safari model, always go with High Quality brake pad replacements. This helps. Works for my Safari van.
- If you pull a trailer, even a 1,000+ lbs trailer, ensure the trailer has its own brakes. I installed full electric bakes on my utility trailer (with brake controller in my Safari van) and braking distance was dramatically reduced. Like 1/3 off its average braking distance. Its distance was not as good as our previous Sunfire sports car but dramatic braking improvement - compred to same trailer without brakes. To me, any trailer over 1,000 lbs behind the Astro/Safari van must have its own trailer brakes. Full electric trailer brakes are the best.
- Ensure HD shocks are installed on the front of your Safari/Astro van. During hard braking stops, the front of the van does an immediate now dive. If wondering, factory shocks do NOT last very long. With HD shocks (like Monroe's best model or Blistien "which are even better") dramatically eliminate front end dives. This helps the front brakes last much longer. Especically if hauling / pulling with your van. Installing HD shocks reduce front steering parts from wearing out "too fast" as well. Especially for its steering / idler arms - that are very expensive to replace.
- Stock tires reduce brake wear as well. Some folks install larger size rubber (like 225s or 235s) for more winter traction or "mud playing" but due to their extra weight, the van's brakes wear out much faster. If you can, only use recommended Stock Size Rubber for your specific van. Some use 205, some use 225, some use 70 series and some use 75 series. If 75 series, and you haul/tow heavy items, reducing rubber size down to 70 series is a good them. Light tire and better on MPGs - when towing / hauling things.
Hope these upgrade (better then factory) items helps as well....
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Differential Oil - Mobil 1 75W90 (Synthetic Gear Oil)
Transfer Case Oil - AutoTrak II, GM 12378508
Hope this helps....
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The blow has all speeds except high, any idea which relay to replace?
It's about a one inch square with five prongs.
Is the floating a result of sagging spring? Or are these two problem related at all?
Torsion bars and leaf springs on the AWD Safari van are "steel based". And being steel, they will loose their static support load and elastistic return ability over time. In other words, these steel parts do wear out and over time, one's AWD does sit lower each year. Not much each lower per year but over a 9+ year period, one's van may sag 1 - 1.5" (which some say isn't very much).
For my "used" 2001 Safari AWD, I figure its front was sagged 1" and 1.5" in its rear. To check for sag, crawl under the front of your van and look at its front drive axles - going into each front hub. To reduce bearing / seals wear, these front axles should be straight across or better yet, on a slight downward slope to its outer hub. When hitting a normal bump, the front drive axles become level. For my used van, the front drive axle was on its opposite slope. And when its front hit a bump, its axles had even more downward to outer hub slope. Talk about improperly aligned front axles. Thus, the main reason why I raised the front of my van 1.5". And its rear was raised 2". Now, the "stance" and wheel clearance on my AWD van looks and feels great - even with its factory recommended "P215/75R15" tires.
For pictures of my lifted 2001 Safari AWD van, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Safari%20Van/VanStance-- afterSuspensionupgrade.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Safari%20Van/FrontTorsi- on-Adjustmentarea.jpg
Also.... Not all "rubber" on tires has the exact same diameter. Your brand new "LTX P215/75R15" tires may have 1/4" more tread thickness then a different brand of P215/75R15 tire. Add 1/4" higher with "natural sag" from steel based suspension parts and and yes, your new tires "can" rub. Sad to say but true...
When the existing P215/75R15 tires on my 2001 Safari AWD need to be replaced, I plan to replace with LTX P215/70R15 tires. Yes. smaller 70 series instead of its recommended 75 (taller) tires. Smaller tires means less stress on its braking parts (due to less weight from its spinning wheel to stop), better MPG on the fast hiways (especially on hills at hiways speeds) and being less rubber from rim to outer edge, there's LESS roll on the corners. Some folks like to install LT tires (that are great for towing heavy loads) but for my 98% passenger van, the "P215/70R15" size replacement would be much better. If wondering, my one buddy put LTX P215/70R15 on his 2WD Safari van and today, he swears that he'd never go back to factory recommended "LTX P215/75R15" again.
BTW: One can "turn up" their torsion bars to gain 1"-1.5" more height in the front. And, one can also install a +1 leaf to gain 1.75"-2.0" in the rear (like I did). Add some HD shocks (like Blinstiens or Rancho 9000 series) and your van can easily take your new "LTX P215/75R15" replacement tires. If you feel your van pulls like an "old dog" and struggles too much with its existing axle gearing, then going with LTX P215/70R15 (smaller 70 series sizing) would be much better.
Hope this helps as well..
.
Forgot to mention....
To determine Tire Size measurements and differences of going to different tire size, plug your tire numbers into:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Going from P215/75R15 to P215/70R15 is 3.1% off-set at 60 MPH. One's speedo will show 60 MPH but real ground speed is 58 MPH. That's ok because most folks drive 65 mph on a 60 zone anyway. More importantly, less weight tire and slightly more higher rpm on its engine. Thus, less "struggling" on the fast hiways - especially on the hills and/or with more then 2 people in the van. To me, AWDs have too tall of OD gear and in 3rd gear, it demands too much gas - due to its engine RPMs being too high.
Hope this helps as well...
.
DLM1
The less middle number, the less ratio of rubber from rim to outer thread. 70 is shorter ration then 75. The 205, 225 and 235 is the width of the thread. If I remember correctly, my previous '95 van had 205-75r-15 (yes, 205s). Thus, skinny but tall rubber. Not too sure if I'd put 205-70R on a AWD but 225-70-15 works great for my buddy's Astro AWD. With its factory 3.43 gearing, the 70 series tires makes his van struggle less on the fast hiways. And especially when pulling his PUP trailer up hills. And with less ration of rubber, less "outward body rolling" on the sharp corners.
If you want to keep the 225-75R-15 tires, I'd seriously look at maybe lifting the front 1" (via torsion bar adjustments) and installing Blistien shocks. Thus, removing "natural over time" front and rear sag. I hear Blistien shocks on the Astro/Safari van work great. And if you feel its rear suspension needs more "static load support", I'd install Timbrens on its rear. If wondering, I have Timbrens on the rear of my 2001 Safari AWD. They work great.
Hope this helps as well...
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The scraping of the left wheel was actually caused by a piece of loose rubber skirting. My mechanic re-attached it with some SS screws and problem solved.
I will try a wheel alignment to tackle the floating.
your gas mileage would go down slightly, because at the same speed you'd be at a higher RPM...
My buddy has a 2000 AWD Astro with 3.42 factory gears (whis is default for many AWD version of the Astor/Safari models). He dumped his factory 75 series tires and went with 70 series replacement. Lighter weight tire, slightly more RPMs but more importantly, his van "lugs less". Because his van lugs less, he doesn't have to press "as hard" on the gas peddle. Thus, he saves gas. Yes. Saves gas because is van "struggles under stress" much less. From a laws of physics perspective, there's a difference a difference in "energy consumption" when it comes to gears and body weight. My buddiy's AWD van "lugs less" with smaller diameter (more RPM rotating) tires. Yes, if he went on 12" rims, his tires would litterly spin off their hubs. And, gas consumption would be horrible. But as my buddy says, the 70 series tires "saves him more MPG" - due to less lugging on the hiways and up the wills. Especially when fighting a head wind at the same time. Almost list someone installed between his current 3.42 gearing and mixed 3,73 gearing. For more details, surf contents of: http://astrosafari.org/axleinfo.htm
OK - sill don't believe me??? Take a 10 speed and put into 5th gear and try to peddle away from a stop possible. Is it hard "lugging"? Take the same bike and put into 3rd gear? Now, take off from a stop position? Is it easier? Does your legs burn less energy from "too much lugging"? Putting in 1st gear would be even easier on take off but above 5 mph, one's legs would be spinning too fast. Thus, burning too much energy.
Many times, I wish the Astro/Safari had a gear between their "too tall" of OD and their 3rd gear. 3rd is too much spinning and OD is "too much" lugging. When NOT towing a trailer and smaller 70 series tires, it would be like using a 3 - 3/5 transmission gear (if that was possible). NOT logging like its OD bear but NOT over RPMing like its 3rd gear.
Something to think about...
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Forgot to mention....
The 2wd at 3.42 gearing works ok with 75 series tires. Using 3.73 gearing is recommended for mild towing or folks in live in semi-hills conditions.
The AWD version (which is by default already 500 lbs extra weight then its RWD version) is terrible with 3.42 and 75 series rubber. Add mild internal cargo or even a light utility trailer and it immediedtly crawls to its knees. To me, all AWDs should have been built with 3.73 gearing (for non-towing) and 4.11 gearing for towing. And, to me, their OD gear needs to be trimmed down 1/3. Their OD gear has always been "too tall" of transmission gear for hills, winds and flat front wind wall design of the Astro/Safari models.
RWD Astro/Safaris are "ok" with 4.42 gears (yes, I drove two of them for years) whle under empty loads. Not the best but with 3.73 gears, their "general balance" gearing for best MPG is better. AWD version has too tall of transmission gear and too tall of 4.42 axle gears. How to lower their gearing without killing the wallet, go with a 70 series tires. As explained above. If you have a AWD version and don't like its "lugness or terrible MPGs", seriously look at 70 series tires. Much less expensive then expensive gearing changes...
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Anyone have an idea about adding a light that would show when the AWD is engaged?
Harry Evan
n slipped on the ice and went out of control . I nearly missed a car in the intersection, and skidded around until I crashed into a chain link fence on a lawn in front of a house. Thank heavens I am OK and no one was on the sidewalk, but I got the scare of my life.I noticed that when I braked the pedal was pulsating and spongy, and there was a humming noise with a tapping sound. I immediatley suspected the ABS so my mechanic couldnt find anything wrong. He disconnected the ABS Fuse.Since then the brakes work well, but I wanted the ABS to kick in in case of snow.I reconnected the ABS Fuse and the Humming and tapping and spongy brakes have returned intermittetly even on Dry surfaces. I am afraid to run it in Ice and rain now.Any help on this out there?This fourum has helped me.I had a hard shift on 1-2 gears.A tranny code came up , and I read here that the Valve Body had to be drilled out, I had that done and now shifts OK
Thanks :confuse:
Good Luck!
PS. I would really appreciate it if you'd let me know what the transfer case oil looked like. Apparently mine looks and smells like gear lube and we're trying to find syptoms vs causes with mine.
Good luck.
Not sure of the cost might get one from a savage yard first to see if it helps.
I've read all the questions and responses about the rear door handle breaking and figured out through those posts how to get at the handle mechanism and open the door from the inside by pulling a rod.
I think before the handle mechanism came apart perhaps something else had been apart because there was another part laying the in the bottom --about 6" long part that looks like it somehow works with the door mechanism. With the door open, I can push on the locking hook to make it simulate latching on the other door when shut, and I can pull the metal rod to make it release, but I don't know how to reconnect the whole thing to the handle?
I don't know what attaches to what? I could take a digital photo and post is somewhere if that would help. Or is there somewhere I can go to see a shematic of some sort to figure out what goes together or what I may need to jimmy --rig?
Thanks! :confuse:
Thanks Will
thanks.
thanks again for taking the extra time to provide indepth feedback.
.
Used Astro/Safari vans in my area are selling between $3K - $6K (depending on shape and miles) as well. Expect low value if trading your van in.
If you are happy with your Astro/Safari and it isn't costing you too much on repairs or weekly gas (dollar value) consumption, then perhaps keeping it is a wise choice. (for your needs). In the end, my wife & I decided to keep our current Safari van. Mainly because it sits in my driveway 6 days / week. We only use our van for weekend "2 hour drive long haul and odd utility trailer pulling". For us, replacing with new or slightly used vehicle is a waste of dollars.
Definately worth surfing the Safari forum and reading TheBiglAls reply - to my same question.
Hope this helps....
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The fan works fine at all speeds and temperatures.... however, I can only get airflow to the defrost on top of dash.... no flow to feet vents or dash vents, no matter what setting the know is at ????
thanks in advance
I know ive seen this problem on here before, so just do a search and the answer is in here somewhere.
Good luck
NOW MY PROBLEM...........
My '95 was "Built Like a Rock", but my 2000 was built like a "Pebble".....! Biggest piece of CRAP I have ever owned is this 2000 Astro.....!
Heres my PROBLEM.......Intermittent starting problems, It is NOT the Cap or Wires or Rotor. Have NEW Alternator, NEW Battery, not the Key switch, all lights do what they are supposed to on Dash.
It is like the OLD FORDS, when the starter solenoid would start to go it would click, click, click, on those you could jump the solenoid. Volts/Amps ok with Battery, No offense to woman, but this thing in the past four weeks has only turned on and started when it wants too......!
I have checked all wires I can find in van for any shorts, checked positive wire from battery to starter solenoid, checked fuses, UNSURE how or if starter RELAY's can be checked....? I do have a mechanical background, the only thing is when I was employed as a mechanic it was the days I could sit in an old lady's 4dr chevy 327's engine compartment and take off intake, headers, heads etc......!
I have had it in to have the codes checked, a battery load test, as well as Alternator/Stator output, diodes etc, etc..
I had a conversation with mechanic that swapped engine couple years ago, he thought it sounded like slush got into starter during a wet, warm slushy day because my son takes it to school and the first time it occurred was a day like this, then it got REALLY COLD and when he got out of school it was well below freezing, he tried and tried, we ended up towing(with straps). It sat in my garage overnight and the next morning it started. It went almost two weeks, then it happened after speaking a mechanic friend who said to me try and recreate it, I had no idea how I did it but I did then could NOT find the reason as to why or how.
Checked the volts/amps in battery ok, chk'd volts from Positive of solenoid, OK, a bit of a draw when trying to start with the clik, clik, clik, do not believe the volts dropped below 9.6/9.8...? give or take. It sat for a bit, then couple hours later started right up.
Then began several days of this, it may start five times in a row, sit for awhile then not start for two days. Tried to several other tests, but unable.
Had apt. to get it on a lift to look at starter and put a load on it, however like going to the dentist, first time all ok, Next time last Friday set up another time for lift and it DIED. Saturday started ok several times, then Sunday Once and today Monday.....NOTHING but clik, clik, clik
ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS........? JUNK STARTER, BAD SOLENOID, BAD RELAYS, LOOSE WIRES................????????
HELP IF ANY IS MUCH APPRECIATED........!
Just the click click click?
If so, assuming you've checked the wires for corrosion from batt to starter and checked ground wires also It would lead me to check water in the oil that is freezing up the engine.
My neighbors car had this type of problem and it was the battery cables that were corroded at the terminals. One time it would start and the next time it wouldnt.
I took a wire brush and cleaned the cable contacts and good to go.
My van would start intermittent, but Ive tracked that down to moisture in the ignition system. The van sits outside and at 167k miles the contacts arent what they used to be and allow moisture to get inside them.
The fact that the van would start if you left it in the garage leads me to think moisture problem.
When was the last oil change,coolant change??
If the engine turns over when trying to start, I would then look at water in the fuel line.
Overall, since it works and then doesnt work, I wouldnt go the route of replacing parts. Sounds like the parts are fine.
1. start by checking corrosion on the starting circuit wires,+ and -.
then check oil for moisture(sludge) then coolant(correct %),etc.
If the engine compartment looks very "wet"(moisture) use can of moisture remover and hit all of the connectors/contacts you can reach
This is the route I would take before spending money on parts that may not even need to be replaced.
Or just wait till warmer weather and fix it before next winter.
Thanks for the help. I appreciate the response, if this does not work I am going to pop in a new starter and see what happens. If it continues you may read about me in the paper......:)