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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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  • After driving for about 10 mins in my neighborhood my van quit running. It seemed like it ran out of gas. I got out of car and could smell raw gas.I have checked all fuses/relays I could find ( under the dash and under the hood).What else should I check.Will a $79.00 diagnostic code reader be of any help?
    Thanks for your help
    BillB4 :confuse:
  • I have a 1996 chevy astro van. It was having problems starting one day to the next sometimes it would and even run for days then stop. My hubby and the niehbor figured out that the fuel pump wasn't working u couldn't hear it come on and no fuel pressure from gage that shoots out gasoline above the fuel intake and outgoing fuel. well we replaced the fuel pump it works we are now getting pressure yeah nope!! it won't start so we replace fuel filter and again it won't start. HElp i can't afford to get computer diognostic test and its so hard to work on these vans anything you try to do something is in the way. Can someone help us figure out WHAT NOW???? any help or suggestions would be appriciated. :cry:
  • I have the same problem with my 2002. Did you find the solution yet?
  • I have been trying to find out if GM put limited slip rear ends in any of the astro's or if any thing will interchange with the factory original. I can not seem to find any one that knows. I have not ask a dealer as yet, that is my next step from here. thanks.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    The Astro was available from the factory with an optional locking rear differential. I believe it is an auto locker that locks when it detects one wheel losing traction. The manufacturing code was G80 if you find one in a junk yard check the build sheet stickers for this code. It was not standard equipment on any option package so there may not be alot of them on the road.
  • 1989 Astro Van, How does it come out of that compartment? Frt or below? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • Hi ya chaps, I have purchased a Safari (1994) here in the UK. Recently I had the misfortune to break down, no fuel or noise from the pump, you guessed lots of wow and flutter and a tow back. I had found the problem the next day. The fusible link behind the battery has a connector to the fuse board on the bulk head, this had melted and caused an electrical failure to the pump and other circuits, worth checking before expensive diagnosis are enetred into. Oh yeah does any-one know where I can obtain some dust/grease caps for the steering joints from? :confuse:
  • emo3emo3 Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Astro AWD that, when starting cold, will (after a few miles of city traffic) get hotter and hotter until the temp. guage is at max. During this time, I'll have no heat in the van. After I pick up speed and, especially get on the freeway, the temp. guage will go down to normal and heat in the van will be restored. It will stay that way for the rest of the drive. Is this a thermostat issue? Any thoughts?
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    Sounds like a sticky thermostat. I would try replacing that first. It is relativly easy to replace. I would also get the cooling system flushed at the same time just to make sure nothing else is blocking the lines. The only other thing it could be is the water pump starting to fail.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    89 should come out the front. The upper radiator crossmember on the early models was bolted at both ends and can be removed so the engine can come forward. On the later models the crossmember is welded to the sides and cannot be removed without cutting it out.
  • did you also replace the pulsation damper that is right next to the fuel pump, if not you can get one at rockauto.com. very cool site.
  • No! I'm still looking into it. Still have no leads, very frustrating. Aparently I'ts a very common problem because evry time I talk to somebody about it they have the same problem with no answers. somebody has to have a solution for this problem? Also my range meter don't work either, you know where the compass is at, That thing, well it dose'nt give an acurate reading. I can be close to empty and it still says I can go about 200 miles, yeah right. do you have the same problem? well I hope we can get this resolved soon! Thanks :confuse:
  • dave8697dave8697 Posts: 1,498
    I have a 98 astro that did the same thing. I knew my water pump was leaking from the weep hole and It was Feb. in Indiana so it was cold out. My coolant level dropped more than I thought and then the low coolant level caused the temp gage to shoot up high but give the interior no heat on a 47 mile drive to work (mostly highway). Topping off the coolant level fixed the problem until I got the new water pump put in when it warmed up in March.
  • joulsjouls Posts: 8
    I just bought a 2000 GMC Safari,I have replace the Engine oil as well transmition flush, now i feel while the transmition is shifting it's like stop for a second and after that is shifting.
    Anybody has an Advise.

    Tanks.
  • Hi, I have a 1985 Chevy Astro Cargo van, I assume with the 4.3L V6 I fixed the choke problem, the one that caused it to die after being put into gear in cold weather, while testing to see that the choke was not restricting power I muscled it a little and the engine began to knock, I believe either the piece holding the piston is about the brake, (the piston ''wrist?") or a piece of a piston broke off and is flying around the cylinder. Either way I was told by my mechinics teaher it's going to be blowing up anytime now, so far it has gone 500 miles on the knocking engine, with me driving it very carefully and taking it very easy.To add to this serios problem it has drained all it's anti-freeze. Everyone says it's junk and to just get rid of the tired van, but me and my father would like to look into placing a V8 engine in it, and Chevy is known for making things all very similar within years, and after seeing an 86 camaro engine I noticed allot of similaritis, right down to the identical 4 barrel carb, so how much work and parts would it take to put an 85 camaro engine into this 85 Astro? Since it's an 85 camaro it would be the 305 5.0L, and how hard would it be to make it fuel injected?

    :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • My van started stalling and then would start after 45min, then run for a while then stalled again & ran again. After sitting overnight would not start. I can hear the fuell pump runing but no firing is taking place. Checked voltages on fuse board and all are okay. Sprayed a starting solution into the air intake but still no firing. Have also switched the two ignition relays with the a/c relays (same part numbers) with out any sucess.
    Does anyone have any suggesions please? :confuse:
  • I belive that my van has an intermittent ignition component since at times it will not fire ( see msg#1111).
    Have measured the ignition coil & get 6K ohms from output to ground. Can anyone tell me what the small module is which is located inside the distributor which has a plug with 3 wires going to it. It has two screws securing it inside the distributor. This coild possibly be the problem along with the electronic ignition module located by the coil.
    Qoestions:
    1. Will the computerized codes show if these components become intermittent?
    2. Is there a way to test these modules?
    3. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be causing this problem or a means to analyze which part is failing???
    :confuse:
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    The simple solution would be to install a replacement 4.3 short block. If you go with the 5.0 if it is carburated than the swap will be pretty easy. The van is not set up for a fuel injected v8. You would need a higher volume fuel pump as well as the computer, engine and transmission from the donor car. There is a book out that shows step by step instructions for installing a small block v8 into s-10 pickups and astro vans which would help you get the right parts for motor mounts and exhaust. Good luck sounds like a good winter project.
  • My 99 gmc safari had the same problem and the feul pump had to be changed. the pump and the fuel float are intergrated. The pump and the float are located in the gas tank
  • My 99 Safari has the key stuck in the ignition. It can turn to the on position and back to the off position but will not release the key,never had this problem before
  • My van is feeling like a bucking bronco. big clunking noises from either transfer case or front diff. Can someone tell me how to determine which is the culprit and can the front diff just disconnected by removing front driveshaft as the awd is not that important to me
    Thanks for any advise
    peter
  • I have a 99 AWD Astro that I purchased used in March. I had and still have to some degree, the front wheel grabbing issue. I have done the transfer case service and replaced the fluid in the front diff. I should also mention that I had to have the rear end replaced since that crapped out on me this summer (3.73 gears, no LSD). When I performed the t-case service, the van was still stuck in AWD all the time. A tech at my local dealer told me to bring it in and that he had this happen all the time. He took the van in slow figure 8's until there was a loud POP sound. He said that was the clutches letting go and that I should be good to go. Since then I only have slow speed turning issues when I first start the van (keep reading).

    The problem I'm having is that the front wheels will not engage when the rear wheels slip. However, I know the AWD works, because whenever I start the van, the AWD is engaged until I drive it about 30 yards, then I can hear the relay under the dash kick it off. This is when the front wheels grab and actually bind up if I try a tight turn. When I say bind, I mean it stops the van.

    That is the only time the AWD drive is on by itself and it is such a pain in the a** when I'm in a tight parking spot that I installed a switch in place of the AWD fuse. This way I can turn the module off at will (I have a 20A inline fuse to the switch to replace the standard fuse). This works pretty well, but I cannot just turn the AWD on whenever I want. This, in theory, should not present an issue with the van recognizing when the AWD needs to kick in, unless of course I leave the switch off.

    Does anyone know exactly how this AWD system is supposed to work? Are there sensors I should be looking at? Does it sense wheel spin, or does it function by inertia?

    On a side note - I haven't looked into it yet, but I'm wondering if I can just replace the module fuse that I bypassed and instead replace the AWD relay with the switch. This way I can control when it comes on and when it shuts off. I'm assuming the relay I hear clicking is a simple dual pole single throw, but I may be off on that assumption. I really don't care if I have to turn the AWD drive on manually, as long as it turns on.

    Any ideas?
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    With all the advice and recent success of the Air Conditioner replacement bracket on my grandson's Astro. The van has developed another problem. The motor has developed a loping, irregular idle ling situation. We worked on it all day yesterday. (12-02-05) Began with giving the intake a good shot of carb cleaner. Then a can of (Advance suggested (white Can-$5.00 and change per)injector fluid in gas tank.)This helped some. At least it continues to run when driving it. But the problem is still there. So we took the advice of the Advance Part's sales manager and he seemed to know what the problem is. He said that TSIS sensor to the gas feed was bad and we bought one-Not too expensive by the way-Little over $8:00-and he also said that we could replace it from under the hood. We could not find it under the hood nor could we find it after removing the cover from atop the motor in the cab. He said that the connection was a yellow and red wire. Need someone to give a diagram as to where it is specifically. Would appreciate it greatly. Bozie
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    It is not a TSIS sensor it is a TSU sensor. Sorry about the confusion.
    Bozie
  • Not only do you have to replace the plugs but also the wires (about every 25,000 mi) despite the warranties because of the breakdowns in the circuitry. Also to get back the smoothness in the engine performance consider this. You will need to replace the coil, the pcv valve,
    and most likely the EGR valve which tends to carbon up and also breakdown. keep and eye also on spraying the throttle area with carb cleaner and run a few cans of Seafoam through the fuel system to keep the carbon minimal and injectors clean.

    Oh and do replace the Delco Distributor caps with brass or copper post caps becasue the Delco caps now are made of aluminum and tend to cause arcing inside the cap. Try standard ignition products. Also replace the rotor.
  • I had the same problem on a 2003 Astro in the first 100 miles! The mirror was not glued in properly and the dealer just pulled the mirror loose from the frame as I watched and then they reglued it. It was a known problem to them.
  • I had the same problem with my '94 Astro and replaced the little computer board behind the black plastic cover attached to the wiper motor and haven't had the problem for 5 years,and wipers work great now.I read on another site that if you remove the computer board and re-solder the electrical connections that are attatched to the plug(they develope hairline cracks)that this also solves the problem without replacing the board.I hope this helps you out!!!!!!
  • I've asked around because my '02 does it once in a while,and apparently it is a bad connection or connections on the sending unit which on my '02 is attached to the fuel pump.I'm not exactly sure what years have the sending unit in the gas tank,but that is what i have been told!!!
  • bukolbukol Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my 91' astro AWD few years back...to cut my time loss, since i use it for hauling boxes... yes, you could remove the front shaft and functions as 2-wheel drive, just remove the bolts holding it from front differential to transfer case.... the only problem with the AWD switch to 2-wheel drive is------- if loaded and going uphill, you will feel like the automatic transmission giving up(feels tooooooo heavy for the van to move).

    alternative, shop around... it cost me around 500.00, getting a pull-out front differential installed. go to recyclers, for short junk yard.
  • I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
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