Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

harmar

I used "Brasso" to polish out scratches/abrasions and dullness. Worked well.

rea98d

Try this article:

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/exterior/index.html#

michml320

I'm buying my wife a used 97 Grand Marquis with 38,000 miles on it for $9500. It looks in very good shape and mechanically rides perfect. Is there anything I should be on the lookout for in this model year GM? Thanks for any input.

stevem327

I just bought a 1992 P74 Crown Vic with 80,000 miles on it. The car is doing great so far and I really love it (getting ready to take it in for the 90,000 mile service a little early just to be safe).

Anyway, my question. Does anyone know how to get hold of an owner's manual for this car? I called Ford's Customer Assistance Center and they forwarded me to the publishing company that prints all of their manuals. Unfortunately, this manual is temporarily "out of stock". They said it could be back in stock in a matter of a few weeks, or possibly months. They've got me on a notify list and will let me know once it finally is in stock so I can order one.

In the meantime, does anyone know if there's any other way to get an owner's manual for this car?

Thanks for any help...be safe out there and keep the rubber side down!

kinley

stevem327: Call around to the wrecking yards & see if they have a totaled 92 Crown Vic, the manual may still be in the glove box. And hope it's not too bloody.

yonsei93

Finally discovered why my car was not shifting correctly. There is way too much transmission fluid. I got my transmission fluid changed at a dealership when I had about 35K miles on this... What is the best way to take out the extra tranny fluid? Should I just go back to dealership and B**** them out?!

kinley

is not exactly the same as pulling out the dipstick & looking at it.
Give the dealer an opportunity to correct their error, if so,and thus document they made the error in case they have caused some future damage by their over filling it.

xstthomas

I have a 94 cv & a 93 gm that both had yellowed headlight lenses. The repair (from the boat yard) is to smear a gel flouride toothpaste on the lenses & rub it on with your fingers (I left mine overnight). Then simply wash it off. The flouride reacts with the acrylic (I'm not a chemist) to remove the UV aged film. I further finished mine off by masking the area & spraying the lenses with a clear acrylic coating (available @ your auto supply store). The coating fogs in at first but clears when it drys. Your left with clear shiny lenses. The cv has 2 years & the gm 1 yr & they both still look good after bugs, road salt, sun, etc.

stanny1

Has anyone a source for the "police" fuel injectors?

houndog

If you have any 4.6 (example new 235HP model) all the injectors are the same - mercury, ford, etc. because the motors are the same - there is no police motor (not like the old days) - they are all 235HP, and that's it brother!!

smmsmm

I have a 94 CV LX that's currently in the shop getting looked at. My mechanic tells me that the "air bags" of my automatic load leveling system in the rear need to be replaced and that it's gonna be in the neighborhood of $ 900.00.

Is there an alternative to replacing the "air bags", could I just install coil springs / shocks like the ones used in "non air bag" model(s) ???

I love the car, but some of it's features are "too smart" for me, like the digital dash and the "auto load leveling"....... Now, not only are they "too smart", they are also too expensive......

As always, any insight appreciated...thanks....

kinley

that are filled manually. I had them on an 82 Towncar for towing a boat for over ten years.

smmsmm

Is that to say that you know that it is a do-able thing namely that the "$ 900.00 airbags" are not necessary and can be replaced by shocks (air or otherwise) and maybe sprngs ??

jerrym3

(I'm posting this here because the TBird chatbox seems to have been wiped out.)

On a recent business trip from Northern Jersey to Bangor, Maine, (and return), the following problems started to happen to my 94TBird 4.6 (83,000 miles).
At about the 200 mile mark, the trans just seemed to fall out of gear at high speeds. Didn't matter whether or not I was cruising or putting a load on the trans (going uphill).

Checked trans fluid level, level OK.

Happened two/three times over the next 225 miles.

On the return trip, same problem started to happen at about the 100 mile mark. Started to become more frequent (happened again about four times over the next 80 miles).

While coming to a toll plaza, I depressed the O/D button, dropping the car into third. The O/D Off went on, and then started flashing, and would only go dark after shutting off the motor. (Even when it goes dark, once driving, it eventually starts flashing again, even without engaging "O/D off".)

But, once the light started flashing, the trans never slipped again over the next 425 miles.

Now, car is running normal, except it feels like the 2-3 shift (under normal load) is happening at a bit higher RPM, and the O/D button still keeps flashing.

Trans fluid could use a change, and I beieve the recommendation was to use Mercon V and to drain the converter as well?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hacksaw

I don't think you can swap out the rear air suspension for springs. I know several people who have upgraded the suspension on the CV and had to skip over rear springs because of the air system. There's a lot of components that go into the load leveling suspension so I doubt it would be possible (read: cost effective) to get rid of it.

You might want to look at http://www.bagmasterair.com. They specialize in these types of repairs, and may even have a location near you. There's also a message board.

Just curious-- what's wrong with the car? Is it rear-end sagging? Suspension light coming on?

kinley

Our 95 T Bird with 4.6 is like a new car. Mercon V semi synthetic was used, but may not be necessary in your case. The semi synthetic = Spendy.

emmanuelle

Just purchased a new CV and was thinking of installing a dual remote filter mount to ease oil changes. Any recommendations?

smmsmm

I just bought the car, it has 144K on it, is in excellent condition (94 CV LX fully loaded) and I asked my mechanic to "go over" it. He tells me "ait bags are gonna need replacing". They are working fine currently, figured I'd get it take care of now since he's got it, until I discovered how much they cost.

Thanks for the URL, I checked them out, they're in FLA, I am in Atlanta.

I am going to put it off for time being, do my homework, etc. When I get the car back I guess I'll crawl under it an look at what I am talking about, since I currently have no idea since first time it came up was via my mechanic (I bought car via E-Bay and did not see it in person until after I decided to buy it, although I could have decided to not buy after seeing it).......

Anyway, thanks for your time/advice.....

cw1cw

Try Mack and Buck's in Homer GA. 706-677-3126. They can replace your rear air suspension with standard coils. They only repair Crown Vics.

jtw229

Can the dealer install the P and H package or must this be done at the factory during assembly? I test drove a CV recently without the P and H and was pleased with everything except for the lack of power. Will this package substantially increase pickup?

bruneau

No, the dealer can't add ph to your car- or if they could, it would be cost prohibitive. It involves dual exhaust, a different axle ratio, slightly firmer steering, wheels and tires, air suspension. The ph car is peppier than the base model, handles better, has a firmer ride, gets poorer mileage.

fratz1

I have a CV 2000 Special Edition (4000 miles) and rode in the rear seat for the first time, I tried to egress this location and found that the inside door handles(child lock unlocked) will not unlock and open the doors.The FOB will open the doors.I consider this a safety factor and wonder if any other CV owner has experienced this condition.I like the car otherwise and have previously had six(6) GM models.

rea98d

I'm pretty sure My 1978 Grand Marquis's got rear door locks like that, but I'm never in the back seat, so I can't be certain ;-) Anway, I'm opposed to any "safety" feature that makes getting out of the car in an emergency (stalled on tracks with train coming, car on fire, car in lake, whatever) harder. When the time comes, I want myself and my passengers to be able to abandon ship as quickly as possible!

slusher

I have a 97 Grand Marquis. My car also has the same thing with the rear door locks....I am unable to open the door by pulling on the door handle. It has to be unlocked from the front lock switch or by pulling up on the little metal lock rod first. So, apparently this has been the way it's been for quite a few years. I'm sure there's some rationale to it...but I don't care for it.

michml320

Ok we picked up the car and it drives fantastic. In fact, I semiretired my leased Suburban in favor of this car it drives so much better! Now a few questions:
1) When you push the gas pedal, there is a very slight high pitched whine. As soon as you let off the gas, it goes away. Slightest pressure on the gas pedal, the whine continues as long as you press it. Is this a fuel pump noise?
2)Occasionally when driving, even on nice smooth highway, it suddenly "shimmies" with a quick vibration then smooths out again. Stut problem? Alignment? They are the original tires(now 38000 miles)
3)Occasionally when you put the key in, it will not turn forward to start the car. It feels stuck. If you turn it back, like you are turning on the acc position, you can then turn it all the way forward to start the car. What is the culprit?

All in all I love this car. I can't believe we got it for $9500 I told my wife no matter what we do we are keeping this car forever. It's that good I would buy another in a heartbeat.

sergeis

Isn't there mechanical switch near the locking mechanism which could switch between "child" and normal modes? It can be accessed only when the door is open. BTW, those locks are very useful f you got small kids fighting back there...

fratz1

I took the car in for service and the service manager expedited the unit for repair(safety feature). Two hours later they called and said they ascertained that this was a design feature on all recent Ford models. The service personal were not aware of this operational procedure. The rear doors cannot be unlocked using the manual hand lever,they must be unlocked by pulling the lock indicator post up,by using the electrical switch on the drivers door. or by using the FOB door unlock switch. I think that the rear seat occupant should be advised of this procedure in some manner,(operating manual etc.)Thanks again for your inputs>

rea98d

If the whine is what I think it is, it's 1st gear in your transmission making that noise. My 78 Grand Marquis as well as my 95 T-Bird (same engine/transmission as new Grand Marquis's), both have that noise, and it's nothing to worry about. Yet another quirk that's been around sine the dark ages of Ford cars (Late 1970's ;-)

quinn6

I want to thank all of you for your posts regarding problems and fixes. Have cleaned my headlights for the first time in years, changed tranny fluid and fixed shudder. Just need ceiling liner to stay in place at rear window. My 92 LX runs great with 86K and I love the ride. I get 25 mpg, does use 1 qt between changes, but who cares. BTW I use studded snows in the winter and drive just about anywhere, I live at 7,000 ft in Colorado. What a great American sedan. Keep talking, I will keep listening.

sured

I want to join quinn6 in thanking all those who contribute to this ! I too have fixed my shudder, cleaned my headlights and a host of other things I learned through the knowledge and contributions of those here. Many thanks to you all !!!!!! (Proud owner of a 1994 Grand Marquis GS with only 40,000 miles on it)

yonsei93

I have a GM99 LS with one exhaust and 39k miles. The front passenger window does not open at all. I guess the sweltering heat got to it and melted the wires... Is there any cure to fix this??!!

Also had the A/C full blast the other day and car would not go at all until I pressed the pedal all the way down to the floor. I like this car alot but if this keeps on breaking I am going to trade it in for a moped!!!

kinley

Try a higher idle speed on the chance not enough electrical power is getting through. It has worked for me. Cleaning the battery posts and cables will help too.

427435

I noticed the other day on one of my cars (that had set in the sun and hadn't been used for several days)that the window stuck for a second and then "tore" loose from the rubber window seals that had melted a bit and stuck to the glass.

harmar

Years ago, when I worked in a body shop, we made money lubing many window channels using a silicon gel. Now, I just periodically spray WD - 40 on mine to lube 'em and provide a water repellent so they don't absorb water and freeze up in winter. The windows need cleaned when I'm done, but I need to be forced to clean 'em more often, anyhow!

oldkraut

Sergeis is correct in his discription of the rear
door lock safety feature. Most cars have had the
mechanical overide in the latch area for some
time now. It almost seemed like the service dept.
still did not clear it up for fratz1. I checked
my 2000 GM, and it still has that little lever
just below the latch.

pace8620

Bought used w/22K in April, changed oil at 25.5K w/no problems. Suddenly one AM the engine refused to idle and would just quit at startup. The manual says to hold the pedal partway and that got me going, but will stall at stops.
?? Any help appreciated

harmar

I had that problem on a '92 Protege and '99 Sable, but both times an idiot light came on with it. Both instances occurred w/o any warning whatsoever. In both cases, it was some fuel/oxygen ratio "sensor" that required replacement. The Sable was covered under warranty. The Protege wasn't and cost me $200 (parts & labor). Should be easily diagnosed by your dealer, since it's under warranty yet. Good luck. (Let us know what you discover.)

pace8620

Thanks very much for that info. I will let you know what it turned out to be.

mariio

I bought a 1998 Crown Vic.base model 4 months ago and i just replaced the shock absorbers with the new Monroe "flex" shocks(a guy from NAPA told me they were the best for the car). the problem is when i drive trough rugged roads the car feels very stiff and it jumps up and down...
is it normal or should i replace them with ford factory shocks

thank you
mario a.

kingfishgus

Car will not smoke most of the time, but after idleing while at a light, when you take off you get a puff. I had the compression checked and all the cyls are about the same (I think about 120). Earlier in this thread a mention was made about valve guides getting sloppy in early 4.6's. I wonder if new valve seals will help (and I'd much rather put them in than to pull the heads for the guides). Anybody with any related experience with higer mileage 4.6's smoking (blue of course), please reply.

benr0

Hey, have a 88 CV that I'm giving up finally, bought it new. Am looking at a used 99 GM with 29K, ultimate package. As you can see I will plan on having the GM at least 10 more years.
Q I have is :
1. How about the electronic spedo etc. Has there been any problems with them long term that anyone is aware of?
2. When I drove the car it seemed that the exhaust seemed alot louder than my 88. Has there been any issues with the exhaust system?
3. Hows the 99's been doing overall?
Thanks for any input that you can help me with!

Hacksaw

I'm not a happy Ford camper this morning.

I took my 98 CV (93,000 miles) in for an oil change and found out that, basically, it needs a new front end. Tie rods, pitman arm, ball joints-- the whole works. It will cost $850 for the work and my so-called bumper-to-bumper warranty is only covering about $550. I'm not happy that it needs all this work to begin with, and then to hear that it's not all covered... not good.

First off, I'm outraged that these suspension parts failed to begin with. The 93k miles are mostly highway and the city driving I do is nothing out of the ordinary. The last time I put a pitman arm on a car it had over 300k miles and was 15 years old, and it was a Buick not a Mercedes. And the kicker is-- the car wasn't exhibiting any signs of a problem. The tire wear is mostly even and the steering doesn't shimmy or wobble. I just wanted an oil change!!

And then to hear that Ford was charging the maximum allowed $75/hour labor rates and taking longer than the warranty allowed to do the job... makes me wonder if it really needs this work or if he's taking me for a ride.

This is unacceptable. I spend a lot of money performing regular maintenace; it boggles my mind that any car would have a substansial failure before 100k miles (yeah, yeah, I know it happens all the time).

It's a great driving vehicle. I won't deny that. But after this disappointment, it makes me wonder if I'm wrong about recommending this car and certain other Ford products.

I'll let you know how it all turns out, and see if I notice any driving difference when I get it back.
I know one thing for sure: quality Ford components or quality Ford mechanics-- one of them isn't.

houndog

I hope hacksaw will get a second opinion before the work is done - some of these parts may be bad but I doubt all of them are bad. I would seek out a quality shop that specailize in front end work and get a thorough inspection. One problem that bugs the hell out me is the lack of grease fittings on newer GM models. This so called lifetime lube business is a crock - the older cars I had with full lube fittings would last almost forever. The new parts wear out from lack of service. The customer gets left holding the bag as usual. Is "Quality still Job 1" - not in my opinion. Replace worn out parts with top quality full lube parts only. Good luck.

benr0

Run,Run to another shop. Don't ever go back. I would not even trust them to change my oil again at this point.

kinley

did they add a quart and wipe the filter clean with solvent? Our 94 TC has over 95k miles and it is just fine in every respect. We've had it 7 years this week and have replaced only the brakes and tires. Use oil? 1 qt in 1,200 miles.

stevem327

If anyone ever told me I needed to shell out that kinda money on a car that was running perfectly, I would take it to at least TWO other dealers for a second opinion. I had a shop once that told me I needed to replace all four struts on a car that only had 60,000 miles on it at a cost of almost $800. I was travelling and just stopped in for a quick oil change when they gave me this news. Luckily, I decided not to buy their line of BS.

When I got back home after my trip, my local dealer that serviced the car told me the struts were under warranty for 100,000 miles and that they often lasted much longer than that.

The bottom line...repair shops are just like doctors, dentists, lawyers...you have the right to seek a second, third, or fourth opinion if you're not happy with what they are recommending.

Run...don't walk...away from your current dealer!!

Good luck.

benr0

Anyone with some help for post 1093?
TIA
Randy

mrf

Regards your questions about 99GM... I have a 2000 GM GS, with almost 30k.

1) Electronic instruments - dunno, don't have them.
2) Exhaust - Can't speak to '88 model's noise level...no problems with mine
3)Reliability - Car was great until 21-22k. Since then have had recurring problems with warped rotors (all 4 wheels), torque converter shudder (despite fluid change) and pinging under load on 87 octane gas (dealer replaced MAF sensor to no avail). I am hesitant to recommend this vehicle to others at this time. Lots of other folks on this forum have had better luck than me though...

benr0

Thanks!
Any one else have input on a 99 GM?

sergeis

I have '95 GM with ~65Kmiles on it, never had a problem - but last week I had the transmission fluid changed at Jiffy Lube (had no time to go somewhere else, besides they did it once before). After that transmission became kind of rough. It shifts OK, but ~ a second after shifting transmission always knocks, and often the whole car vibrates for a while - releasing gas or punching it down a little stops that shaking. It can do it in 3d or 4th gear, at 25 or 80 mph, does not matter, you can feel it upshift, and then in a second it is followed by a knock or trembling, once it is over it is smooth again. Also on interstate it is enough to release gas pedal for a fraction of a second and push it back where it was, that would cause a knock in a second (no gear shifting here).
It is rather annoyng and those Jiffy Lube guys obviously blamed bad transmission, just a coincidence, though I tried to explain them that it is kind of too much of coincidence, if that thing did not happen in 6 years and then happens immediately after fluid change chances are they have done something wrong. I know they are not specialists, I was just thinking if the fluid was wrong or air is still in, I am no specialist myself. They will check if the fluid they used was right on Monday, but I guess I cannot get more out from them.
Anyone has any idea what might be the reason and what should I do?