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Erratic? I refused to consider any other similar sounding words!
tidester, host
The noise in neutral I was told is due to the way the Selec-Trac 4WD system is geared. I don't have the optional differential. On mine, it doesn't matter if it is level, on an incline or a decline; I still hear that noise. Sometimes it's more noticeable than others but it's there. On my last trip to the dealer in OH, I actually pulled into the service bay and left it in neutral so they could attempt to hear it. I was simply told this was the way it is..........
I don't know if you or anyone else has this problem, but sometimes when releasing the brakes after a stop; the rear end "jumps". Again, this is something I'm being told is completely "normal" for the GC.
I've given up on it...... I've got 3yrs. left on my lease and I'm out of that thing. All I do now is just whatever maintenance is required and let it go.
Did Jeep make any '99 Grand Cherokee Ltd. 4WD with rotors and hubs as one unite or does the rotor dislodge from the hub? If the rotor does dislodge from the hub, is there a trick or tool to make a stubborn rotor dislodge? I've tried all I know how to do.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 96 GC Ltd. Last fall I had the same clunking when I turned corners, but also periodically when I would hit a dip in the road. It ended up being a busted SWAY BAR. The mechanic I took it to had commented that he's seen a few Jeeps with the sway bar being the problem. Parts and Labor ran me about $130.
Look kind of above the tire but toward the front of the Jeep. Have someone push up and down (watch your head - you don't need to be under the Jeep at all just looking from the side) on the vehicle to see if if clunks. It does not need to be running for this. Then have them turn the steering wheel both directions. Check both sides. If the clunking is happening in that area, have a mechanic look at the sway bars.
Then this morning it did the same thing. Except it would die every time I hit a red light, etc. Then it would start right back up (keeping foot on the gas of course). This afternoon, it started fine, but died half way home.
I am hoping fuel filter, however, to test this theory, I need to know where the filter is located.
I was told by the dealer in OH that unless a warning light comes on, don't worry about. I found that to be kind of odd, but again accepted it b/c he was the service manager. I noticed the "whining/spinning'" noise one day at an ATM about a yr ago. At first I thought it was something w/the ATM but when I got home, I dropped into Neutral and sure enough there was that noise. Long story short, after 4 trips to the dealer I was told it was normal due to the gearing of the 4WD system. Same thing goes for the rear end "jumping" after braking and for replacing the rotors 4x. They recently started warping again, so I had to pay 75.00 to have them re-surfaced.
I'm originally from Cincy, went to college @ Miami, moved to Phoenix then Columbus, back to Phoenix, then Columbus now California.
I went back in and replaced the timing chain cover seal but did nothing to the timing chain or distributor. I reassembled everything and went ahead and put on a new cap, rotor and set of plugs. When I tried starting it up it was missing horribly, flashed codes 11 and 12 and kept surging when trying to find the idle. I pulled the distributor and it looked to be aligned fine when at #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
I gave up and took it to a Jeep dealer, giving them this whole story. They claimed it was the Crankshaft sensor so they replaced it and nothing improved. They said it had to be the timing chain or PCM. I got the car back from them and replaced the timing chain -- again no improvement. I have also replaced the Camshaft position sensor and checked all wires to both the Crankshaft position sensor and Camshaft position sensor. Everything checks out fine and the sensors appear to be working fine.
Any ideas?? The car is undriveable because of how rough it runs. When I disconnect the Camshaft position sensor while it is running there is no difference in the rough idle at all -- for what that is worth.
Welcome to edmunds.com!
People tend to ignore postings written in all CAPS (they are hard to read) so I advise turning off CAPS LOCK on your pc when creating a message.
tidester, host
Here is what I have to say about their pitch RE: warning lights- IE: Check engine light- baloney... cant alway rely on that, because it does not always come on if there is a problem! That is exactly what they told me, well if you your check engine light isn't on, then the vehichle is running fine... yeah right- 2 days later, NOT, it was stuck in reverse. I have had it in numerous times, but at least 2 times the check engine light was not on, and it was a major prob, and the check engine light SHOULD have been on. The problem is they depend too much on the jeeps' sensors and. those go bad just as often. Not to mention the computer does not always pick up the problem either, but I was told there is a hand held computer they can use while road testing it- hopefully we can try that next. If you have had your jeep in 3 times for the same problem, then check your states lemon law, especially if the one of the 3 trips occurred within the first 12,000 miles or one year which ever comes first. But, lemon laws differ for each state, California has great lemon law protection for the consumer. I now have a lawyer and he has filed suit. I didnt pay for a used, problematic vehichle- which by the way I bought it new, and these SUV's are not cheap. You sure have lived in a lot of places- I have relatives in Phoenix. Good luck w/your jeep!
The manual states that I should press the select then the set button for a least 2 seconds during starting. Didn`t work.
I also tried pressing the 2 buttons before turning the ignition on, but the display goes into a diagnostic mode.
I also tried going into the setup menu, and change the interval between tune-up, that didn`t reset the reminder neither.
I find that feature very useful, and would apreciate any help...
Pat
The Basic Limited Warranty lasts for 36 months from
the date it begins or for 36,000 miles on the odometer,
whichever occurs first. But the following items are
covered only for 12 months or for 12,000 miles on the
odometer, whichever occurs first:
• brakes (rotors, pads, linings, and drums);
• wiper blades;
• clutch discs; and
• windshield and rear window
Are you sure you got the spark plug wires on in the correct order? It could be that or you don't have the spark plug wires all the way on the spark plugs. The fact that the idle problem started right after changing the plugs indicates you have a problem with either the order they were put on or they're not on all the way.
I have not looked at a 4 wheel drive GC, it may have an entirely different setup that the 2 wheel drive.
Electrical gremlins can be the most challenging kind to fix. Sorry I can't be of more help.
I have heard of silicone sealant screwing up O2 sensors but even that shouldn't affect a cam\crank sensor.
Western General is a warranty company that is not associated with D/Chry. It was offered by the car lot and they gave us a 3,000 or 3 months warranty. I was interested in extending the warranty after it expires, but will mot definitely not spend the money on Western General's. I checked with the Better Business Bureau and they had an average score and have made good on some complaints. I suppose the next step is to file one myself. If that does not work, I want to contact the media and pursue this further.
The total repair was over $3600. It runs great now and shifts smoothly, but when one considers an engine getting broken in at 30,000, needing a new transmission at 55,000 seems absurd.
Is there pressure in the fuel line? There's a pressure check point with a small cap and a valve like that on a tire you can attach a pressure sensor to - located near the middle of the engine, drivers side (obviously part of fuel delivery) - you could press it manually to see if you get a spray but you need to protect with towel and not allow it to spill - if pressure it will spray out so cover over and protect from this - get a tester if at all possible.
Turn the key to the ON position (just before the point of turning it over), can you hear the fuel pump initialize? Should be a short (2 sec or so) hum coming from the back...
This is the first time I am using a forum so I am not certain how I get your response but you can email me directly at e.smith@gematech.com.
Steve, Host
I have read some of the other stories in this forum about jeep performance but I have only 18,000 more miles to go before I get to 300,000 miles with the same engine, transmission and drive train and want it to be the first vehicle that I have driven 300,000 miles. We have been doing house restorations and it has been to the dumps more times than I can remember hauling heavy concrete as well as brush and it has never let me down. I think it is absolutely incredible that an automatic transmission could have lasted so long under those conditions.
' 99 JGC Laredo (has been almost one year since purchase).....seeing all you other people dealing with warped rotors, brake issues with these vehicles as I was just lucky enough to encounter this problem now also. Had Jeep in shop on Friday and my mechanic stated he just had another Jeep in about a month ago for the same problem as I was experiencing (pulsating brake pedal when applying brakes,front end shaking terriblely when applying brakes coming down from about 60mph) he replaced rotors on the other JGC and in a month the guy was back in the shop with the same problem again,finally after returning again in another month after 2 rotor replacements my mechanic began doing some research and found out about this defective brake/rotor issue with Jeeps. Luckily,I didn't have to go thru all that since now he knows about the problem when it came time to repair my JGC he said there is some type of new caliper replacement part that is supposed to fix the old problem with the rotors so that I will not have to return to the shop in a month with warped rotors again. He said ,of course,Jeep is not saying that it is a defective part issue(in which they would be dishing out big bucks for repairs) but that instead they are just telling people to replace with this much more expensive part. So I paid out almost 500 bucks for this so called better replacement part. Mechanic told me to write a letter to Jeep complaining but somehow after reading about all you other folks also having this problem,somehow I dont think I will get very far with a letter to Jeep. Has anyone else tried to pursue this legally with Jeep seeking reimbursement?I mean,so many Jeep owners having the same problem,seems to me to be defective quality. Any advice????
Oh PS....I was wondering why my steering wheel makes that screeching noise on turns also sometimes... had it checked into and was told that it was nothing also... had no idea it was another "Jeep thing".I am going to try and stay positive though,like I said I am just coming up on my 1 yr anniversary of the purchase and the only other thing that I have had go wrong with it (besides this brake thingy) was some kind of modular piece for when the fan kept running and wouldn't shut off. She has 56,000 miles on it,is a 1999,and well I just hope I didn't buy a mechanics best friend..... thanks for any advice that is offered in response to my post
I am experiencing the same problem. I had the brushings changed and new tie rod which seemed to fix the problem for a while, but 3-4 weeks later I hit a bump in the road and the 'death wobble' returned.
Any solution found yet?