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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying



  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Don't forget to at least look at the full coilover options considering that you are knocking at the door with spending $900+ on Koni/GC. Look into the H&R coilover set as well as what Truechoice can fix up for you. Don't underestimate the goodness of matched springs and shocks. That's probably the best thing about the Tokico kit that I am running right now.
  • jc58jc58 Posts: 48
    I did a post a month or so ago regarding the 91 Integra that we had bought for my son. The car ran great when we bought it. However, because it had 112,000 miles on it and the timing belt had never been changed we had it replaced and the thermostat replaced. The valves were also adjusted.

    Since that time, when the car has warmed up and the idle drops to the 650-700 range, the engine shakes the car real bad. Throw it into nuetral and it stops. Took it back to the place that did the work and they claimed everything checked out.

    So we took it to another highly recommended repair place, and they had the car for a week. 5 different mechanics worked on it ( 2 had a combined 55 years of service) and the car has stumped them all. They cannot determine why it shakes so much. Engine mounts appear ok, valves are at specs, the timing belt was replaced correctly, etc. They spent several hours on the car, but because they could not figure it out, they did not charge us anything.

    Has anyone ever heard of this happening after the above mentioned repairs? Is there anything else these places could have missed that is causing it? Could it just be because of the new belt on an older engine?

    We are at a loss.....
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Yep, I remember your original post. Sorry to hear you still have been able to resolve the problem. I really don't have any earthly idea about what's going on with your son's car, but let me ask you this: when the car is cold and you start it (so it's on high idle) does it vibrate then? Have you considered adjusting the warm idle setting up (say around 800-900 rpm)? I realize this car is an automatic transmission so doing that is not ideal, but would that be a way to reduce or eliminate some of the vibration?
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    looking at the h&r website, the true coilover kit costs $1500. I don't have quite that much money. Is there someplace online that has them for cheaper? About the tokiko coilover kit, what is the range of lowering on them? Also, what are the spring rates, and how much do they cost? Thanks guys.
  • swinga7swinga7 Posts: 45
    go to and click on the suspension link.

    they have H&R coilovers for $1081.

    they also have Koni coilovers for $973
  • xhawkeyexhawkeye Posts: 10
    Tokico 5-way adjustable shocks
    Eibach Springs F: 8" x 350 lbs R: 7" x 250 lbs (Stock F: 212 lbs R: 117 lbs)

    I don't race, wanted to keep as much suspension travel as possible while improving the handling and tighting up the ride. Have put 90k miles on this setup and am very happy with the results. Will do the same thing to my next car.

    Went with GC because the price was competitive with shocks and lowering springs while the ride height was adjustable. With the adjustment sleeves as high as possible got a 3/8" drop. If one wants stock ride height one would need taller springs.

    True coilovers (shock body is treaded) are expensive. The GC kit uses a threaded sleeve that slides over the shock and rests on the spring perch. Have heard stories of spring perches breaking but haven't seen that.

    A couple years ago I ran over chunk of concrete that blew out the front tire and tore up a rear trailing arm. The shock was fine but the GC threaded sleeve was smashed over the spring perch lowering the ride height another 1/2". Had to take everything apart to replace the sleeve. (Didn't need a spring compresser this time thou.) That front shock still hasn't spung a leak but later the other one did and was replaced.

    To figure out your current ride height measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender and compare that to a stock G3.
  • jc58jc58 Posts: 48
    Yes, when the car is cold the idle is smooth. It is only after it warms up and the idle drops that the car starts shaking. I had thought about trying to bump the warm idle up, but I am not sure what that involves or if I can.

    Does anyone know if this can be done since computers seems to control everything now adays, and also how to go about doing it?
  • swinga7swinga7 Posts: 45
    WASHINGTON (CNN) - The Acura Integra tops a new study listing the most stolen passenger vehicles for the model years 1999-2001, according to the Highway Loss Data Institute.

    The list correlates numbers of each 1999-2001 model passenger vehicle thought to be on the road with the frequency that it is stolen to determine which cars thieves want most often. Other studies don't use that formula -- usually concluding that the most stolen vehicles are models that most populate the highways, the institute said.

    Theft investigators believe that Integras are so popular with thieves because of their parts, according to Kim Hazelbaker, HLDI senior vice president.

    "Many of those parts, like the more powerful engine, end up on modified Honda Civics," Hazelbaker said. The Civic and the Integra share the same platform.

    According to the study, the Integra was stolen with a frequency of 21.7 times per 1,000 insured vehicles on the road in a year.

    The Integra was stolen more than eight times as often as the average car, and 2.5 times more frequently than the Jeep Wrangler -- the vehicle second on the list -- according to the institute.

    The average U.S. car is stolen 2.6 times per 1,000 insured vehicles, according to the study. The Wrangler is stolen, the institute said, 8.5 times per 1,000 insured vehicles.
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    As always, it is so hard nowadays to keep nice things in this world anymore. After reading the article above and other ones being shown on the 'Net today, I tried to come up with a way to make it harder for thieves to even think about taking my car. Although mine came stock with the imobiliser I also had an aftermarket alarm installed a few weeks after bringing it home. It still does not protect the car from being towed, though my lights may be flashing and the siren going off while being driven away. Being an owner of a motorcycle, I wondered if there was a lock that could get attached to a car's wheel or rotor, which I do to my bike to prevent being ridden away or towed easily. I found a product being offered on a website ( that not only has denver boots (22 lbs.) and also tire locks for about $90. What do you guys think about this product? Think it will protect our beloved Integra's more, or at least lower its attraction to thieves?
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    I always wondered if such a thing was manufactured for the public. It looks like it has some promise.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    If they can somehow come up with a product to lock the rotor or wheel from turning I 'd buy it. The problem with that is probably too much extra weight on the wheel or suspension components, or if it's external or accessible from the outside which I suspect it would be, the thieves could damage it, break it (like the club) or break into it and open it or unlock it. The best thing to do is garage the car at night which is when most Integras are stolen.
    My friend was joking about 2yrs ago saying that his dog would probably never bark if thieves were stealing the car at night. 2 weeks later he goes out in his driveway in the morning and the car is missing. The dog never barked! The cops found the car 3-4 days later totally stripped except the wheels. He had 3 different wheel locks on each corner! Luckily these were 5-bolt Type-R wheels with Type-R brakes so he bought the chassis (no doors!) with the wheels back from the insurance company for $500 and sold the ITR wheels, rotors & calipers for $1,100. If the thieves want your car bad enough they 'll take it. Car alarms don't usually deter them.
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    I think the tire lock weighs about 10lbs and does not rest on anything else but on the edge of the rim. It is external though which obviously is more accesible to thieves. I agree, if they have the will, they will find a way. All nights it stays home even if I am not (have a beater for street parking), I do not really have as much worries since mine is in a garage that has an alarm and the car is parked on the "walled" side and not directly in front of the overhead door. Another vehicle is parked next to it so they have to get that out before getting mine. Another promising "system" that I heard about was something that would send a small amount of shock to the thief when attempting to get close to the car while it is armed. Alpine is also working on something that can do other things specified by the owner, hopefully while the thief is still inside (like speak to them through the car speakers, make the car too hot/cold/, disable the wipers if raining, blast the stereo, etc) all from the comfort of the owner's home or office. Bottom line is I may not be taking it to malls, while I watch movies, or any place where I can't have a glance.

    Update on the TE-37's: Turns out that I misunderstood my cousin. He was quoting me at a per tire price, not per set. Price went down though he said since it's and old model. Going rate now is about $300 ea. or $1,200 for a set of 4. But with this #1 ranking for stolen cars, I may think again before adding the #1 stolen rims to it also.

    Hope you all have a good "driveable" weekend, weather-wise that is.....
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    There's no way to get around it, you want Volk TE-37s, you've got to come up with some serious coin!
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    yesterday by the guy I was mainly competing against last year. 2 weeks ago he put thousands $$ into his GSR!!!
    Besides the 525lb coilovers he did earlier in the spring, he now has a Quaife LSD, 9lb flywheel, ACT racing clutch, 13x8.5" Panasport racing wheels that weigh 8.9lbs ($265 each!), and 225-45 Hoosiers!! These mods except for the coilovers were $4300 with labor! All legal in DSP.
    In a couple of months he 's getting a bigger throttle body, intake manifold & roll cage. Basically almost everything allowed in DSP. This guy is taking this hobby very seriously :-) He plans on doing some National tour events and Divisionals this year and possibly going to the Nationals in Sept. He said he 's setting up his GSR the same as Mike Neary who came in 6th at the Nationals (DSP) last year.
    He beat me by a full second (1.1)! To me 5 grand is not worth an extra second. I can think of a lot of home improvements I can do for $5K.
    The funny thing is I was beating him because he kept hitting cones and his only clean run was 34.7. My best was 34.2. He had some 33's but with cones. Then on his last run (5th) he gets a 33.1 and I 'm glad he did. The car looked awesome and I 'd hate to win a trophy when I know there 's someone a whole sec. faster than me in my class. But really what it comes down to, is the car with the most money sunk into it, usually wins nowadays in the SP, P & Mod classes. I figure his Hoosiers are good for about .3-.4s vs. my Kumhos (plus they were sticking out of the fenders 1.5"), and .6-.7s due to his LSD, flywheel, & higher spring rate coilovers.
    I thought he 'd beat me by more because he said his car was noticeably faster with the lighter flywheel and the shorter gearing that resulted from the 13" wheels. Plus he said the car is "now faster than he is".. Once he gets used to it I think he 'll get a lot faster with it.
    I was actually in the low 35's but then I had a really good run where I felt I did everything right, breaked at the right time, turned at the right time, was on the gas at the right time, flew through the slaloms (2), etc. and dropped my time by a 1 second. It just felt very fast. I felt my car was maybe capable of a 33.9 but not much more. I 'd love to experience what a 1 sec. faster car feels like because I almost got dizzy with those slaloms and I thought my reflexes were at their peak with my 34.2 run (which was <2s from FTD and probably in the top 10 out of 75 drivers).
    I was really happy to see a GSR that was so capable and came within 1sec. of FTD with all those National & Div. champs there (we have a bunch in the PRO class). Next time he said we 'll probably swap cars in the fun runs. I hope I don't like his car too much and go out and spend all that money :)
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    You know you won't want to get out of that car ;)
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    that car sounds like it would be a lot of fun. I agree with chem, I don't think you'll want to get out.

    Have any of you heard of the z10 radius arms? they're supposed to eliminate wheel hop, is this true? Also, will handling be affected in any way? Okay, your opinion counts here. I want to get rid of wheel hop during acceleration. Now, should I do this with the z10 radius arms, or get konis and set the front to full hard? Thanks guys.

    Okay, now theoretically if I managed to destroy the front two shocks (assume I have koni yellows) by physically mishandling them(such as taking a jackhammer to them). Is there any place to buy just the front shocks? Thanks again.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    that's what I 'm afraid of :)

    Garados: I 'm not sure if you 're talking about buying just the 2 front Konis, but yes, you can just order 2 of them. You 'll probably pay a little more though, than just getting all 4.
    The Konis will reduce wheel hop especially if you firm up the rear because that's where the weight gets transferred when you hit the gas. When you apply the accelerator the car sits lower in the rear and raises the front that makes wheel hop worse. With the Konis set pretty firm and some stiffer springs you don't get as much but you still get a little wheel hop. LSD also helps reduce wheel hop because you 're putting better power down through both wheels. I 've heard of the Z-10 radius arms which are basically traction bars (legal in DSP also) and mostly used for drag racing. They 're not supposed to help with handling at all though.
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Hey gang~ thought you might want to see this thread I started on about Koni yellows and spring rates. Basically, I was getting tired of the difference of opinion about how much spring a Koni yellow can handle, so I did a little investigative work. The answer I got surprised me, and it might surprise you, too.

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    I guess I forgot to tell you guys that early in the spring I was talking to some National ranked drivers in my club and they told me they had spoken to Koni a couple of years ago and were told the shocks will handle up to about 450lbs/in. I 'm surprised this guy said 400. I think they want the business of revalving them (sell more parts, whatever) and they 're lowballing us. I know of several Civics with 500+lbs factory Koni Yellows and have been racing for 3yrs without a problem.
    This nut that came down to my local club from Albany last year had 800lbs spring rates with revalved Konis for 2yrs, so that negates what that other shop said about the "revalved" rates.. up to 6-700. I don't believe a vendor as much as the manufacturer but there have been hundreds, probably thousands of people running higher than 400lb springs with their stock Konis. I 'd say Konis are pretty safe with 450lb springs. Now if the official word is 400lbs from Koni then why the hek is Ground Control selling all these 500-600lb springs to thousands of Civic & Integra owners with stock Konis? Don't you think they 'd be well informed by Koni about what spring rates each shock handles so they can advise their customers on what to go with? Something just doesn't smell right.. I think the shocks can handle more than 400lbs for sure (we know that), but maybe higher than 400lb springs makes the stock Konis less reliable or reduces its life span which they don't want you to do.
    I 've always suspected that they couldn't dampen 600lb springs (like many use with stock Konis) which is why 400-450 is all I was planning on getting.
    Oh now here's another one: Why do H&R and Eibach suggest on their web page to use Koni Sports on their race springs that average 500lbs/in?
    H&R race springs: 583lb/in 450lb/in!
    Neuspeed race: 460lb Front!
    RSR race springs (these were popular 3-5yrs ago, so were their exhausts): 502F/300R. Everyone used Koni yellows on these a couple of years ago. The manufactureres never suggest getting the Konis revalved.. If the Konis can't dampen these rates then people would be getting serious bunny-hoping/bouncing. I don't remember anyone ever posting that symptom with race springs. I 'm just trying to keep an open mind here..
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Harry, sounds like you've got one hell of a beastly GSR to compete against now. If that guy is building a Mike Neary-type car, God help you and the rest of us! It is so very hard to compete with resources like that. I'm not sure I would choose to do that even if I were able to. But that's easy for me to say, given I don't have those kinds of resources and have many other family- and home-related responsibilities competing for my limited resources. All that being said, I hope you're holding your head high because a one second difference between you and him is very, very respectable, considering how well developed his car is. Being your region's reigning DSP champ is nothing to sneeze at. :D

    My autocross event on Sunday was a mixed bag. I went down to middle GA to compete, outfitted with my new wheels and tires, with my new spiffy magnetic one-piece numbers to boot. There was a good-sized contingent from the Atlanta region there because of the long time between our last event (early April) and our next one (early June). All told, about 50 cars showed up. They divided us into two groups where group 1 ran and got 2 runs each, and then group 2 ran their 2 runs. Then a lunch break, and then group 1 ran again getting three runs. Then we switched again, and group 2 finished with their 3 final runs. I was in group 2, so I worked the course first, and had to call a lot of DNFs because folks were totally missing a gate toward the end of the course. I thought I would surely not make THAT mistake. Well, for my first two runs, I DNF for totally missing a gate on the upper section of the course. And I did it two times in a row. And I'm thinking, "WTF, how did that happen?" That's the very first time in almost a year that I've DNFd for getting lost on course. During the lunch break, I walked the course (for the fourth time) and found the error of my ways. Honestly, I guess I'm spoiled and used to much better marked courses than what this course offered. But it's good to get out and experience different events put on by different groups. It'll pay off in the long run. My last three runs were all clean (no cones and no DNFs thankfully) getting down to my fastest time on my fifth run of 48.6xx. There were only two cars in STS and I beat the other guy handily (~4 secs.). So, I finally felt good about my performance because I was only 4 seconds off FTD which was set by an F Mod cart. Also, I was less than 1 sec (~0.7 secs) behind my buddy who was our region's DSP champ in a GSR last year, who's now campaigning in SM in a '86 Civic hatchcrap on 13" wheels and Hoosiers. So, all in all, it was a weird but good day. And I came home with a first place trophy in hand. :D
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Let me get something straight: You were only .7s behind a Street Mod '86 Civic with 13" (usually 8-8.5" wide) wheels & Hoosiers? That's incredible! Did that Civic have a really slow motor? Maybe he 's still working on it? Most SM Civics here have B18C1 or C5 motors in them and are usually very fast with R tires and coilovers. Some of these guys even have head work and other things done on their B18 motors and I hear them say they 're in the 13's - all motor. That is weird though..

    Yeah there's not much I can do against someone like this guy. He 's determined to spend as much money as it takes so he can be #1. It's that mental determination that totally clouds one's sense of logic and reason, so next thing you know they 've thrown $8-10K into the car. I can take that money and increase the value of my house by $20-30K, or drive around in an S2000 while he still has a low 15's Integra (with 90k on it no less!) with no turbo, or anything, just to win some cheap trophies. There comes a point when you have to say enough is enough especially when you 're like this guy who told me he spends every penny he makes or saves into the car.
    I also want to mention that he did have the GC coilover street kit before and replaced it with higher rate springs. There goes $350+labor. He drives for hours to get to events and has managed to pile 90k mi. on his car in just 2yrs! He has a '00 GSR. He is from PA and belongs to the Philly region, so besides driving to Philly for events which is over an hour from where he lives, he drives 2hrs to attend NY & NJ events! He also drives 1.5hrs to attend the North Jersey SCCA region events at Englishtown. He told me he 's had 20 events so far this year because he attended a bunch of Winter auto-x events that the Philly region had, plus all the NASA & SCCA events in the NY/NJ/PA regions so far this year! I 've had maybe 5 events this year. Last year he had 25 events and Evolution school (which is usually 25+ runs - about 5 events). So this guy has actually had the equivalent of 4yrs auto-xing in less than 2yrs! I now feel good that I beat him at the M-Club (similar to NASA, fast course) last month before he did all these mods :-) He 's nuts and will probably achieve his goals like Divisional championship by next year, because he won't stop putting money into the car until he does.. Did I mention he 's getting the Konis revalved? Maybe I won't see him for 2-3 weeks :-) Knowing him, he 'll probably put the stock shocks back on and go race! :)
    Seriously though, I think if I had an LSD, I 'd be really close to his times or close the gap by 1/2sec and then rub in it :) That would be enough for him to go buy a more expensive racing LSD and throw a few more grand into it :) He was already talking about the flywheel he put in (can't remember the name) and was saying that he really wants a TODA one, but they were 2mos back ordered. He wants to sell this one and buy the Toda which is more money, plus the labor all over again would be like $400+! I think by next year he 'll be well on his way to a total of 10 grand. So sad. He also has a SPOON front upper bar which is very expensive (about $280-300) and header & exhaust (thermal research 2.5"). So he 's way over $6K or $7K by now with the CAI, 22mm Comptech sway/tie combo ($340), Konis, GCs, etc.
    I never realized DSP class can be that expensive! He still has to do the FPR, throttle body, intake manifold, roll cage, and revalve the Konis! dang!
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Harry, my buddy's new (to him) Street Mod Civic is very much a work in progress. He still has the original motor in it (is it a D16 or D18?). So, he doesn't have a B18C swap, but he does have some head and valve train work (like Mugen valve springs - good to 8.2k rpm). Honestly, the only thing that really puts him into SM is the brake conversion -- has GSR discs and calipers front and rear. Still it's a pretty quick car, and I respect his driving abilities, so I use him as a reference point. He'll definitely get faster as he gets more used to the vehicle.

    BTW, that guy with the crazy-modded GSR sounds like a total whack job. Spending that much time and $$ on anything, let alone a car, just ain't right. There's absolutely no sense of balance or moderation in that guy's life. His soul sounds tortured...
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    a dillema. I can't make up my mind on what I want to do. I have enough money for a spring(ground control)/shock(koni yellow) combo or a cam(skunk2)/valvetrain(skunk2) upgrade. I don't know what to do. I would like to do something like ground controls and a ctr intake cam, but if I do the springs, I need shocks pretty soon, and I won't have money to get them. If I get the cams, then I'll have to get new bearings, new valve springs, etc.
    I don't know if I should work on suspension and get it done with, or work on the engine. What would you guys recommend? BTW, I have already put on an intake and a cat-back exhaust, and sway bars. The car will be used mostly for street, and some track racing. Thanks.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Casey, I would really appreciate it if you could ask your friend what engine work he has done and what results he has gotten on his D16Y. Thanks for the help and congrats on the trophy!
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Garados, I can't remember what year car you have, miles, warranty you are dealing with. Personally, I think you should get some nice front brake pads, brake fluid, helmet, and do some autox/track stuff. Eventually, you will want new tires. The money you will spend learning to drive will give you skills that will carry over for the rest of your life and also give you a better idea on what you need to modify to better satisfy YOUR needs.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Just bought a really primo digital camera w/ accessories, brake pads, paid for TWS and the hotel, and other little maintenance parts. Yes, I am broke. Just need to make $2K more this summer for college.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    what are the rates on the standard gc's, limited edition? I think they are 350/280 f/r. is this right? I'm thinking that these will be stiff enough for my needs, which is spirited driving in the boondocks.

    Okay, i'm thinking about buying koni's from I'm sure tirerack is good about shipping and getting orders right, but am I wrong? Am I just too trusting? Do any of you have any experience with them? i.e. tires, shocks, springs, etc? any info would be appreciated.

    Also, I replaced my brake fluid, and now, my abs moderator doesn't sound like a dinosaur or a wookie when the car starts up ^_^ So I'm happy about that. The brake fluid was nasty. Couldn't see the bottom of the master cylender, and when I poured the brake fluid in, chunks of black stuff would come up to the top. Anyway, next step is to get new pads.
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    If it were me, I would spend your $$$ on the suspension parts, and leave the motor alone. Obviously, this is just my personal preference, but I would much rather be able to go fast on the twisties than in a straight line. The stock GSR is a very respectable performer. With the intake and exhaust, you've already achieved some performance gain. Once you start getting into engine work, especially the valve train, you need to commit yourself to a lot of time and effort getting the car tuned optimally. I've spoken with a few guys with similar type of mods and they spend an inordinate amount of time trying to tweak the car to perfection. They actually sound frustrated most of the time because it's not very easy to do. Plus the labor to do the suspension mods would be less than the valve train. So, my vote goes to the springs/shocks. But it's all up to you. :D
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    I will check with my friend to see exactly what's been done to the engine. He bought it recently (about 3-4 months ago) off of one of our area's local Civic gurus (the guy actually works at OPM Motorsports, the shop that Tom Fowler owns), so all the work had already been done to it. I do know that it had some kind of Mugen cam in it when he got it, but he's very recently swapped that out and put the stock cam back in. He said he was losing too much low end performance (important in autocrossing) w/ the Mugen cam. Anyway, I'll check on it for you.
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Garados, I'd try and a few other places before buying the Konis from TireRack. I've seen better prices on those shocks than what they charge. Tirerack is a very reputable shop, and their prices on tires are hard to beat. But I was surprised to see how much they wanted for Koni yellows.
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