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Yes, around $25K-$30K would buy you a Big Healey that the Average Joe could not distinguish from "restored". What you don't get for $30K is a perfect steering wheel with no tiny cracks or a powder-coated frame or a chemically stripped and dipped body with high-tech primers and god knows how many coats of perfect paint. And you won't get all new triple-plated chrome or completely re-wired and chromed wheels and all new windshield and door glass, seals, and felts.
There are a thousand small expensive details that most people never notice by themselves, but that somehow add up visually to a stunning car.
Personally, I like the British standard of restoration, which is more "whatever".
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
But the older SLs are sometimes referred to as "valet's cars". The French call them 'baker's cars". All this means is that the owner is getting some residual prestige from the newer versions but is not wealthy himself.
To me, an old SL is just an old boat but some people are still impressed by them, since they don't know you can buy one cheap.
And the new SL may be a very capable performance car but based on my casual observation of who is driving them, I suspect they are still mostly purchased as displays of wealth rather than to take to the track and grind out .9 Gs in the turns.
I think if you want a modern SL for pampering, it will do that, and if you want to drive within 9/10th of any exotic car made, it will do that as well. A car for all seasons perhaps, which isn't all that easy to build.
In the late 80's I had an 850 Spider - that little buzz bomb was a riot to drive as well as EASY to work on!
2 guys
2 foot long 2x4
couple foot of chain
could easily carry motor and transmission into an upstairs apartment and rebuild the whole thing on a kitchen table!
My grandmother had a sewing machine that was bigger than that motor!
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I was always disappointed that the Jensen Healy wasn't more successful. I thought that it was really what the TR-7 should have been.
Although Shifty doesn't care for the styling, as I recall, but I rather like it.
Lotus developed 2 liter alloy OHC engine , with 4 valves per cylinder. 140 BHP at 6500 RPM. 4 Speed!
I always wanted one - might still be a fun toy if you can get parts. Anyone know?
Sure you can buy 'em cheap and they are a pretty good deal for the money. And if running right, a very good performer.
They are, in real life, pretty homely IMO, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder of course. Your photo is very flattering because of the angle it is shot at (the rear end of the car isn't very appealing) and the color black, which hides a lot of the clunkiness.
However, judging by the marketplace, values and interest level, in this case at least most people seem to agree that it's a car nobody much wants.
Parts are strictly a matter of lining up the networks. The internet has made parts available for just about any car, but don't expect them next day UPS like you would an MGB or Alfa Romeo.
The A-H 3000 was a big, comfortable cruiser with lots of torque and great styling while the J-H was none of those things. By the time the Jensen-Healey came on the scene that niche had been well-filled by the even more popular Datsun 240Z.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
"Unloved when new, unloved when old"
I don't think Donald Healey had anything to do with this car, and in fact disowned it if I recall correctly.
I do recall you can blow the cylinder heads clean off them suckers (so to speak).
As for parts, the Jensen-Healey is an assembled car. Many of the parts are simply transplanted from another British car of the time. All you have to do is figure out which vehicle donated that part and call Victoria British (or whoever carries that particular part) and order it.
I owned one briefly. I wasn't all that impressed by the way it drove.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/305992762.html
Kjell Qvale bought Jensen in 1970. Since Qvale was a big import dealer in California, he probably sold a large percentage of Jensen-Healeys in the US.
I prefer the bigger Jensens...the Interceptor and the FF.
The 1500 was a "boulevard sports car," but there were the 1500S and 1600S variants, with the OSCA twin cams. I think they cost a lot more than the MGB did, though. And then there was the questionable steering geometry...But then the 124 Spider and Coupe showed up in the mid-sixties and the MGB became an instant anachronism, not only with respect to performance, but also in creature comforts, particularly the convertible top.
Yep that's all true, most Brit Sports cars of the 60s featured 1950s bodywork on 1930's mechanics. The 124 Sports with Five Speeds and 4 wheel disc brakes were a revelation to those who grew up on MGs and Triumphs. MY TR-4A was such an anachronism it featured small aluminum strips atop the fenders to hide the unfinished seams and for some reason, a hole in the grille where you could insert a crank, even though it wasn't equipped for crank starts.
Given the reliability of Lucas Electrics a real crank would've been a worthwhile option.
I'd give anything to have my '71 124 Spider 1608 back.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Fiats are a pain to work on, though, and MGBs were so easy.
Ditto my '72.
Guess it's a matter of what you're used to. Valve adjustments are the only procedure that I would say is easier on an MGB, but at least one needn't pull the cams ala Alfa and Jaguar! And you can do a clutch replacement without having to pull the engine.
The top goes up and down real nice, though.
An MGB you can fix with duct tape, a pipe wrench and a stick.
The Fiat engine is just not as strong as the Alfa engine either. The MGB engine is virtually indestructible, as you might expect from a Vermont Wood Stove.
It has not been my experience that the FIAT twin cam is fragile. I would not want to approach 9000 rpm with a stock Alfa or MGB lump, which I have done on many occasions with the 124 engine. The steering box is tight to the intake manifold, though.
Add the top-notch 5-speed gearbox and you're in Sports Car
Heaven.
The only Alfa I drove '86 Spider wasn't nearly as much fun but by that time emissions and safety regs had taken their toll.
Fiats are a [non-permissible content removed] to work on compared to MGs and Triumphs with their antediluvian motors but I was lucky enough to be friendly w an ex-racing mechanic who specialized in Jag, Rolls and Mercedes. He regarded working on my Spider as a vacation by comparison.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Fiat engines are more cheaply built I mean, and don't have the bottom end strength. On the top end, they seem about the same as Alfa, prone to head gasket leaks, etc.
I do think Fiat engines from th 80s revved better because Alfas had that variable cam set-up and the 2000 cc motor. It just couldn't rev. But you take an older 1600 or the 1750 engine and you could actually get 7,000 rpm out of them----but you might bend a valve, which you would certainly do in a stock Fiat at that rpm I think.
The Fiat 124 Turbo was really screwed up and a real devil to work on, but it was fast and fun and handsome. I like that car very much but they are very troublesome in the engine/turbo department. I'd certainly consider owning one since I can work on them.
The 80s Alfas with the Bosch system are extremely reliable cars. Probably not as much fun as an 80s Fiat to drive because they are kind of slow and doggy, but that CAN BE REMEDIED! Aha!
Somehow I'd like the Alfa reliability coupled to some of the 124s endearing characteristics to make up the ideal inexpensive Italian sports car.
I can agree that the 124 engine is more cheaply built than the Alfa, since it has an iron block and not aluminum with liners, but that is also the reason that it is robust and not particularly prone to head gasket problems, especially after the introduction of the astadur gaskets. I have never heard anything but praise for the strength of the bottom ends of these engines. I refer you to Guy Croft's impressive book on tuning FIAT twin cams. To clarify an earlier comment, the 1438 engine is the only one with which it is profitable to rev above 8500 rpm as dead stock (albeit with headers, jetting changes, no air filter), which I have done when necessary while autocrossing. The larger engines need more breathing in order to make usable power at those levels, and I would observe an 8000 rpm red line with the 2 liter and a stock bottom end. The one thing that will, without fail, take out the side of the block is to get the auxiliary shaft out of phase after changing the timing belt. The fuel-pump cam will encounter the big end of the con rod with impressive noise and smoke. This is true only of the the 2 liter, but one may hacksaw the cam off the shaft, plug it, and use an electric fuel pump. No more worries!
And yes I think you're right, with improved gaskets and proper assembly head gaskets don't have to be a big issue on the Fiats. But they are prone to overheat, and that leads to problems because most owners don't shut the car down. Being an iron block, they can get away with more than with an Alfa, which will BEND when hot...but only to a point and then their luck runs out. They think they are driving Chevy small blocks, which can overheat, catch fire, and even melt and they're fine.
I've seen Alfa bottom ends push well over 200,000. I kinda doubt a Fiat has that level of regular longevity car after car.
Alfa heads are pretty dead after 100K however, with mushrooming valves, etc.
My only real bi*ch with Fiat 124s is that rubber-band driveline. They are so hard to drive smoothly.
You have a valid point for a couple of reasons. I've seen the FIAT twin cam live for that kind of mileage, but it is rare, not because of intrinsic weakness but because the cars were less likely to be maintained as well as were the Alfas. Then there was the propensity toward rusting away, a problem I do not deny. The engine may well have been capable of passing 200k, but would have to have done so without the assistance of the rest of the car.
Quite true, but that problem was mitigated after the change to a throttle cable rather than the lever-actuated linkage, which magnified the drive-line windup. After all, the Alfa also has a donut in its drive line!
I occurs to me, on the subject of reliability, that, when I have seen these motors grenade, it is, with very rare exceptions, due to a timing belt slipping or breaking, a frailty to which the Alfa is not heir, but also a fate that can be easily avoided.
Please forgive my unstinting defense, but I am obviously a marque enthusiast and seem to be incapable of giving an inch. This is a character defect that I am working on! I admit that the Alfa engine is much prettier than the FIAT's, with that awful belt cover.
Of course, MOST defects or peculiarities or annoyances of ANY car can be corrected or at least diminished. The best we can do is to record historically how most of them turn out, not so much how a few of them fall into "the right hands".
Yes, the Alfa engine is prettier, there is no doubt. Can't say they don't rust as well as a Fiat. Both cars are prodigious contributors to the world's supply of ferrous oxide.
On that subject, I am helping a friend reassemble a '69 124 Coupe after a repaint. The tin worm has been chased with some expensive vermifuge, and we would like to apply some preventive substance while we still have access to the inner panels. Wax-Oyl and Ziebart do not have franchises in this area. Any suggestions regarding a possible home-fried prophylaxis?
Car Buff Legend has it that Fiat made the Soviets a deal to swap cheap Russian steel in exchange for the License to build copies of the 124 Sedan and help in designing the plant to build them (called the Togliatti Works on honor of an Italian Communist leader).
What's Alfa's excuse?? :P
Seriously, the truth is that most cars of the 60s & 70s rusted badly, excepting Benzes and Porsches built after they started Glavinizing their bodies (early '70s).
I agree with Shifty that it's very hard to defeat the tin worm once it starts. One piece of advice I would give your friend with his 124 Coupe (terrific car BTW) is to
garage it.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
All engines have their weaknesses. A Volvo B20 engine will wear out its stock camshaft in 60,000 miles. We used to have barrels of camshafts in my friend's Volvo shop. The B20s run and run, but most people have no idea of their optimum performance. Most old Volvos are running at 60%--70% of their potential due to bad camshafts, worn timing gears and sloppy distributors (have you ever met a B20 engine that didn't ping?--only a recently rebuilt one).
The Toyota 22R engine is a very high quality engine internally.
Sometimes engines are just "right" from the beginning, but you can count those on your one hand.
Actually, I was thinking of coating the inside of the body panels (while the car is apart and they are more or less exposed) with a chemical/mechanical barrier such as Wax-Oyl. We are lucky in that the Coupe has always been garaged, and what rust there was was extremely localized, being only in the lower sides of the trunk and the front of the outer rocker panels. These areas were completely removed and replaced with new sheet metal. The other panels don't even show surface rust on the inside. I'm not sure why (aside from no salt on the roads) there isn't a greater rusting problem in the NW, since our climate is so much like Blighty's where rust is endemic. In any case, we would prefer not to do future rust repairs if they can be avoided, especially in the rockers, since the holes for the stainless molding are now open and provide a way to get something in there. The body work and paint was done several years ago, and I don't know what measures were taken by the restoration shop to inhibit corrosion. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.