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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • I though of that. But the scale is from 0-14 (I incorrectly said 0-15 in my earlier post) for a total of 15 not 16 increments. Plus moving the handle one full turn (15 increments) coincides with a change of 10 ftlbs on the shaft. If it were ounces it would require 10 turns to equal 10 ftlbs.
    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    In that case, I have no idea. Do you have photos of it? Instructions, maybe? I'm sure an OCD specialist like yourself already has checked the manual.

    Mine is pretty simple. Just twist the dial, then lock it in place.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That is just like mine. Yours is graduated every 10 ft-lbs, while mine shows every 5. I bet yours has a bigger range of torque settings.

    I imagine those are ounces, perhaps not labeled properly? Try 70lbs + 10 on the knob, and then just 80lbs +0, and see if they "feel" the same. I bet the 80ft-lbs is tighter.

    -juice
  • The funny thing is there are 10 absolute click turns of the handle between 70 and 80 but they do not line up with anything on the 0-14 scale. If I set the scale to 5 it correspondes roughly with 4 click turns of the handle. So sure 70 plus 10 would be less that 80 since it really only represents 7 click turns of the handle which would be a lower torque setting than a full turn to 80. My complaint is that there is no visual reference for setting toque in anything less than 10 ftlb incremements. Seems like lame design doesn't it. Does you scale on the handle show increments of 5 and do they line up with the click turn of the handle?

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sounds like the scale is just wrong, then.

    On the shaft itself, mine is labeled with 5 lb-ft increments. The knob itself is split into 1/2 lb-ft increment, so I see 0, 0.5, 1, 1.5 ... up to 4.5.

    Maybe they just put the wrong labels on yours. I'm sure yours is 1 ft-lb increments, then.

    -juice
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    My Craftsman torque wrench allows 1 ft-lb increments and has the 10 position dial. And every 10 clicks matches up to a tenth number (50, 60, 70, etc.) So, 65 is 5 clicks past 60 (and matches up to the 5 on the rotating scale).

    Sounds (and looks) like they're using the wrong increment scale. Send it back!

    -Brian
  • See, I'm not an idiot. Both of your wrenches make perfect logical sense. Surprisingly I spoke with 4 folks at SK who didn't understand the problem. One was an "engineer".

    I did send it back.

    bit
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    ...their engineers are the same ones who created Spinal Taps' amps. This one goes to Eleven. It's one louder.

    None more better...
    -Brian
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Question for Patti:
    In the owner's manual, it indicated that the fluid/oil should not be mixed with different brand(s). So, for a do-it-yourselfer (that ain't me) who needs to top up the fluid/oil, how does anyone know what brand is in there? Hmmm...would the Dealer Service even know?
    Oh, the manual didn't say.

    p/s I know what's in mine. Had them all drained and refilled.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, but what if you need that extra bit of torque, and you're already at 10, then what can you use to get you over the edge?

    "This one goes to eleven".

    -juice
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Posts: 317
    Could you post which model Craftsman torque wrench you have when you have a chance?
    Thanks,
    Ranger Ron
  • Or it could work as a safety feature. You feel the need to over torque... so go ahead take her to 64 ftlbs but what you really get is 60.

    bit
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Craftsman Microtork, model #44595. It's a 1/2" drive and has a range of 20-150 ft-lbs in 1 ft-lbs increments.

    -Brian
  • Bought a used 98 I in April with 28K. I now have 35,500. Like car very much - BUT - I have one very irritating symptom, which concerns me all the more since the transmission was overkilled when I took delivery from the Saturn dealer. AT low PM's, mainly in the top two gears of the AT, I get a noise upon light acceleration (and maintaining speed up a gradual hill). It almost sounds like the kind of rumble you'd expect from an exhaust hitting something, but I have checked all bushings and clearances carefully. Ground speed of car does not matter, so it's not wind.

    I am concerned that this is actually a transmission/differential noise and doesn't bode well for the long haul. Since I drive 30,000 miles per year, I reach the long haul (and the end of a warranty window) quickly. Besides the original overfill, I often can smell the sweet smell of AT fluid when the windows are down and I have been driving a while (particularly up hill to my house in the hills). There are no visible leaks. The windows are down either because I am a) too hot or I) too sick of listening to the rumble noise as compared to window noise.

    It seems to be worse with four passengers than one or two, but it is always there. If I accelerate more rapidly, it goes away. If I back off on the throttle completely, it goes away. Could it be something inside the exhaust (I wiggled all the external shields)? Or is it really in the drive train?

    I have learned to ignore the noises rubies "always" make (I and/or my wife have had 5 of them from AL to Legacy to Outback Sport - transmission whine, rear gate rattles, rear door pillar rattles, and in the Forester only, engine rattle when cold (even if it's 85 degrees when you fire her up). In the end, I couldn't stand the terrible clutch in the 2000 Outback Sport (an otherwise FUN car), and traded it with only 16 I after being told by the dealers that it was "normal". This is my first automatic in 300,000 miles of driving standards (since the 90 Legacy LS). Why does Subaru always come SO close to the perfect car, only to blow it on one major item or another (early exhausts/radiators, early AS computers, rust, Impreza clutch)?

    The Forester (my daughter has a 2001L too) seems the best yet, But this noise has me waiting for the shoe to fall - partly because nobody else seems to have it and I have a history of getting dealers to say "bee we never saw that before - or since".

    I have two dealer choices on this - one nearby with only 2 years experience and high service turnover or another I like a lot that is 45 miles away. So I turn to you. Any ideas?
    Thanks for your help - many minds make better decisions!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You may want to get the ATF flushed and refilled, even if it's not due.

    The rattling could be a heat shield near the exhaust that works itself loose when the engine gets warm.

    Just my 2 cents' worth.

    -juice
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    Your symptoms could be describing light pinging under load, especially since it is worse with increased weight (passengers) and increased load (hill). I would try the next higher octane gas and see if it disappears.

    Regards,
    Frank
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    As per your suggestion to have the glaze removed on the pads and rotor, this has been done numerous times by the dealer, almost everytime that it goes in for service and the results are the same the squeal and growl sound return. Wether its day or night, rainy or sunny, morning or afternoon. I think they are just tired to see us come in with our Forester with the same complaints all the time. Last time it was in to check the brakes, embarrassing for this dealer,I marked a couple of lug nuts to the wheel on each wheel with a marker and as we thought they never even removed the wheels to service but said as usual that they did and all Foresters do it.
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    Hugo- The brakes on my 01 Forester have never ever squeaked. Why does it seem that every service dept's first line of defense is to say that "they all do that"?

    -Frank P.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I very rarely find a dealer at least none of the Isuzu, and subaru dealers I've encountered that doesn't claim a problem to be normal if it is not easily explainable or fixable. It's weird but they all say everything is normal or that they can't find the problem. Things like "Customer claims" and "According to customer"

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Mine also never once squeeked. Knock on wood.

    -juice
  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    So far, 11 months +, my Forester's brakes have been abnormally quiet.

    Ross
  • So I finally got to talk to someone intelligent regarding the SK torque wrench. It was a person at the company that designs the wrenchs for SK. He immediately saw the problem and concluded it was an assembly issue and hoped it was only this particular wrench. When I pointed out to him that the instruction manual and SK catalog both showed the same miss match of parts he was just slightly freaked. Don't you think I deserve a free wrench? Odd no one else has realized this until now.

    bit
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Interestingly, my Impreza's brake pads squealed a fair bit about six to eight thousand miles ago. I brake conservatively on the street, but I thought then that they were near the end of the pad because of autocross use.

    Nope-- still have plenty of pad at 32k miles and many autocrosses. And they don't squeal at all, haven't for a while. Pretty weird.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    OCD wins again. We're better at quality control than SK is!

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    saved me last week when I was "adjusting" the oil level in my OB after the dealer changed it. Upon loosening the plug, I went too far and it fell into the pan (can I blame this on it being midnight?) and most of the oil came out. I did not have enough new oil on hand. Thanks to OCD I was draining it into a very clean pan which allowed me to reuse it. Upside - did my first oil change....sort of and learned how to remove the plastic housing underneath. :)

    -Greg

    P.S. Also installed my hood deflector. Actually like the way it looks agains the Winestone. No pics though - was kinda in a rush as usual.
  • seamus3seamus3 Posts: 98
    when i turn my steering wheel all the way to the right it makes sort of a whining sound. what is wrong with my sooby? it is only when i fully turn the wheel to the right, no sound when i turn totally to the left.

    at one point the place i was taking my car said something about a very small leak around the right front wheel. i think it was something about a bearing. i don't have any written record, and it was probably 9 months ago that i was told.

    thanks
    seamus
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