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The TDA has been explained to me to be a Toyota District advertising charge. I asked a dealer who contributes to Edmunds.com forum if the dealer has to pay Toyota the invoice price PLUS the TDA. His answer was YES.
Dealer Holdback: This is an amount that Toyota gives back to the dealer for selling its car. Again, as I understand it Toyota takes this out of its "Invoice" profits and returns it to the dealer. In other words you have already paid this item when you pay the dealer invoice. I personally would NEVER pay this as a line item.
Whol. Financial Reserve: I was told by the same dealer mentioned above that this is mainly a Toyota to District item to cover the cost of money for a specified amount of time from manufacturing to delivery to customer. According to my source, the dealer does not see nor benefit from this item. It is between Toyota and the District distribution organization. I would never pay this as a line item.
You should also be aware that almost all dealers try to add an Administration Fee (they call it various things) at closing. Those I've seen lately are around $200.
All this being said, my approach is to figure out what I'm willing to pay for a car and submit that number to the dealer and tell him that he can distribute the numbers any way he wants but that is the amount i will make the check out for (plus tax and tag fees of course). I just got these numbers off of the Consumer Report web page:
MSRP: $26,825 (This is off about $214 from your qoute so take a look at edmunds.com and price your car using your zip code.)
Invoice: $24,677 (CR does not add the TDA into this figure. CR says that the TDA may or may not be a legit item -- pretty indecisive of CR if you ask me.)
Hold Back: $489 (Same as your quote, which makes me wonder about your quote since the Toyota hold back is usually 2% of the BASE MSRP (before optional equipment is added). You probably have more extras then you stated or you are in a district that adds other costs.)
Dealer's Cost: $24,188 (This number comes from the Invoice - hold back. Again, CR does NOT figure in the TDA to get to this number. CR's reason? Whether TDA's are even invoiced and it's amount when it is various too much between car manufacturers and districts for CR to keep track of.)
My thoughts:
Hold Back = NO, I would not pay for the second time but I would realize that it is part of the dealers profit. We've all heard of a dealer selling at or below INVOICE. Well, the HOLD BACK still allows him a profit.
Finance Reserve = NO, I would not pay this. This does not affect the dealer in any way (according to my source).
TDA = Maybe or some portion thereof.
Philosophy: Figure out the bottom line price you are willing to pay for the car. For you I'd start at CR's Dealer's Cost and add maybe $200 to $500 realizing that the dealer might have actually paid the full TDA. Know the price if you were to add the full TDA to CR's Dealer's Cost.
Next: Cross check some of the MSRP to INVOICE ratio of some of the other people's RAV4 purchases in this thread. This will also give you an ideal of where you should be.
Last: Negotiate an "out-the-door" price. Don't let the dealer catch you up in item by item pricing. Tell him/her that the price you are offering can be broken up any way the dealer wants, but that is your price, not extra's such as Admin Fees, etc..
You got a good price for your WRX. I traded my 02 WRX sedan w/ 62k and only got 11 and that was after some fighting.
They gave me 15000 for a 2003 WRX Wagon with 54000 miles
and I paid about 26000 for the sport w/moonroof/towing package/6CD stereo
Interesting. May I ask what motivated you to switch from the Subaru to the RAV4? I'm debating a RAV4 and a Forester right now and would like to hear your thoughts.
Plus my wife couldn't drive a 5 speed (and boy was this thing fun/fast) and her van was just paid off and didnt want to get rid of it yet.
So far I love it (I miss the 5 speed at times). The V6 has plenty of power for those hae to haul [non-permissible content removed] moments. and its bigger interior.
Overall I'm saving $$. About $7 a fill up = $45/month plus my car insurance went down aboout $200 a year.
I'm thinking of trading my 2000 bmw 5-series 528i Wagon for a Rav4. I'm wondering if anyone else here has owned "expensive German cars", & what they think of the RAV4? I'm kind of worried that I'll miss the beautiful interior & handling of the bmw. But I'm in a "Toyota mood" right now.
My reasons are: I want AWD as I live in New England. I get tired of "sitting down low" in a car--I had a Range Rover & loved the seating position. I'm tired of switching tires twice a year--it sounds like the RAV4 does OK with the stock tires in the snow(?). And more cargo capacity--I think the RAV4 holds more than a 5-series Wagon.
Oh, & how are the front seats on the RAV4? Any thoughts on all this???
TIA! Woody
*They gave me 15000 for a 2003 WRX Wagon with 54000 miles
and I paid about 26000 for the sport w/moonroof/towing package/6CD stereo*
tidester, host
- hutch
I test drove the two BMW sport activity vehicles on the race courses BMW sets up once a year. The Rav4 V6 would more than hold its own.
I have the V6 with the tow package to haul my glider in the mountains. It's worth every penny and good on gas.
Should be fixed tomorrow.
Steve, Host
We will be trading our 1999 BMW 540i (8 cyl. 6sp. manual) for a RAV4 Limited 4cyl 2wd (Blizzard Pearl). It was a tough decision, but we were very pleased with the test drives in the RAV4, and we took several drives before we made our decision.
We've been trying for almost two months to sell the BMW privately, priced way below KBB, with no luck, so I guess next week when our RAV comes in we'll be trading it for even less. BUT, we're very excited to get our first ever Toyota and first ever SUV!
One good thing for me--if I do this--is I have the 6 cyl. auto non-sport 5 series. It's a great car, but not the most exciting bmw--& the 6 cyl RAV4 is actually quicker 0-60. Also, mine has the boring 16" wheels, the chrome trim because it's a non-sport, & it's black, which on the E39 5series, at least the wagons, is IMHO the most boring color.
I like the fact that the 17" wheels on the RAV4 are standard with the V6. And you get the black window trim (not chrome) on all models I think?
One question: how do you like the seats on the RAV4 compared to your 540i?
cheers, woody
Steve, Host
Now at the end of the year when ULSD is mandated and starts to get acceptance then diesels will start to flood here from the largest diesel manufacuters in the world, Toyota, VW, MB, Nissan, etc.
It's only a matter of the fuel available nowin the States.
So I have driven several different RAV4 versions and will probably buy the V6 Sport late this year. The ride and handling are very good and the V6 power is very nice.You hear the V6 while accelerating but not much when cruisin or at idle. The truck has lots of nice features. The AWD drive is not Quattro but funtionaly decent. I do not like the idea that the VSC can not be turned off because OFF is good in deep snow as I have learned from the Audi.
I am not kidding myself that the RAV4 is an Audi or BMW, particularly in the area of interior design, displays, seats or comfort. The RAV4 seats are at best OK. A well equipped RAV4 V6 Sport at $26.5K is at least $10K to $12K less than X3 or Lexus 330 even before taxes. It is around $20K less than A6 Advant. I am worried about eventual rattles and noise and there is not much about that from Toyota owners here. The Audi warranty is better to 48K but if you keep it longer you need a $3K extended warranty as repair costs are very high.
The bottom line is the RAV4 looks like it will provide the right level of fun and usefulness with enough money left for 2-4 trips to Italy. Since I am retired now and do not drive as much especially long trips the RAV4 cost advantage is a factor.
Will I miss the Audi.....you bet! Nothing makes a 5 hour trip seem like a 3 hour trip than cruising in an A6 2.7T at 75!
-Moonroof
-JBL audio
-Side Airbags
-Daytime Running Lights
-Carpet Mats
MSRP: 24,857
Price we paid: 23,630 (500 below Edmunds TMV)
We went to Hank Aaron Toyota south of Atlanta and had a great experience with everyone there. I would definitely suggest getting quotes via the internet from internet sales members. We love it! :shades:
Please, I'd like to have the correct answer from someone who knows. Surely, he can't be right.
Thanks.
We recently purchased a new RAV but have discovered a problem & are wondering if anybody else has the same issue.
If you have the front windows (doesn’t matter either one) a little bit down (say 1 to 4 inches), we noticed that there is a small rattle. I believe the problem is due to that when the window is down that the front part of the glass is vibrating against the small piece of triangular plastic near the front of the window. This piece of plastic seems to be made of a cheaper material than in other cars. If the window is further down (say half-way), the glass will be clear of the plastic and the noise is gone...
Yes, mine does the same thing. It is worse on driver's side. Was your dealer able to fix it and how? Anybody else with the same problem?
Thanks
Thanks
Thanks for your repsonse.
While driving home from dealership, I could feel the bumps on the road (they say PA has one of the worst roads in the country). The engine is smooth. I think it takes time to get used to the accelerator. My previous car was 94 geo prism.
I paid 26,000. I think this price is better than Fitzmall. They had a similar one some time back for 26315.
What was the list/invioce on this one?
Check your tire pressure. Many new cars have tires overinflated for shipping and the dealers forget to adjust the pressure during prep.
tk865, "Toyota Advertising Fees" #66, 7 Feb 2003 11:04 am
Steve, Host
I am not talking about turnng off Quattro or AWD. I have found on the Audi that at slow speeds in deep snow of say up to the bumper, the car is worse with stability control on than off. It seems that the stablity control adjust power/brakeing to try to keep the car straight. This kills momentum when you are tying to get going and maintain a steady speed of say 20 MPH in deep snow or up a grade. Not always good when your trying to make it the last half mile up the ski house hill in VT. after dinner out.
People here have reported the same thing with the 2006 RAV4 and one guy from Canada knew just what he and I were talking about with regard to deep snow, low speed performance.
I understand that the RAV4 AWD switch just keeps full AWD drive on at speeds less than 25MPH and that it is not doing anything with the VSC.
By the way C&D had a recent test of a new Toyota sedan and did not think much of the VSC.
Also I am not sure how the electric steering on the RAV4 plays in all of this. Supposedly it helps keep you from doing dumb stuff with the front wheels.
The VSC is a great thing on the Audi and I am sure it is a good safety thing on the RAV4 but it is not perfect. And I would suggest to people that they get the feel for it in the rain and snow in a big open parking lot before they get too enthusiatic in their driving as I suspect that it could suprise you at times when it is doing one thing and you are trying to do something else.
EJ - JBL 440W Upgraded stereo
GY - Side curtain airbags
RL – Running lights
SR – Sunroof
PC – Special color (Blizzard Pearl)
TO – Tow Package
CF – Carpet floor mats
MSRP $28999.00
My price $26910.00 + tax and license = OTD $29700.00
According to Edmunds, it’s @$750 over invoice,I consider this a fair profit for a high demand vehicle. I also sold my 05’ Camry for 3K more than the trade offer. I was extremely blessed in every aspect of this purchasing experience.
Next step, roof rack .off! Splashguards and all weather mats on!
I’ll keep you updated on the mileage. My “5 speed manual” 05’ Camry got real close to the Highway rating of 33, I typically got 29-31 here in Tucson. I would think I’ll be able to obtain around 26 with the air on with the RAV ..we’ll see!
The professionals would like to use their expertise rather than the built in system, which is understandable.
Your point is good though about testing it for yourself. However for the next several months that's going to be hard since it will be mostly dry and hot. In winter next go to a recently plowed empty parking and get up a good head of steam say at 30-40 mph and whip the wheel left or right. You'll be surprised that it's very difficult if not impossible to get 'out of control'.
I could live with that...but...does this mean that the TPMS warning light will flash continuously?...and...will this affect other systems in the vehicle?
Anyone out there have any experience with this?
Cheers! Tox
There is info on this showing up at other RAV4 discussions on the net.
GY
RL
SR
TH
TO
CT
MSRP: $29,044
My price before tax & admin: $26,729
They charged $500 over invoice and waived the TDA fee.
First fill-up was 23.2 mpg, 30% city / 70% highway.
It's SOOOOO quiet and smooth (traded in a CRV). I love the little things like the indention on the door cubby so it can hold a 20 oz bottle--ingenious.
Anyway, I stopped by the Toyota dealer today, and in the showroom was a nice looking Barcelona Red, V6 Sport FWD. The dealer had installed black leather on the seats for $1,999 extra. I was SOOOO tempted to just buy it, since the cost of the leather almost offset the extra cost of the 4WD over FWD. However, I have heard at least one owner of the V6 with FWD comment that traction is easily lost when accelerating with the V6 and FWD. Can anyone with a V6 FWD RAV4 tell me how much traction is lost? I'm mainly concerned with wet road traction. I currently drive a 1999 Camry V6 5 speed manual and wet raod traction is embarrasing. Sometimes, even accelerating slowly can cause wheelspin, which can be nasty when pulling out onto a busy road from a stop sign.
But if you thought you needed AWD
9 weeks ago, why not now. I guess it is the "new toy now" urge that we all get when we want a new car?
Goood luck.Where are you located?