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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,596
    I tend to agree, will find out Tuesday. Have a pretty good relationship with this dealer for the most part.
  • daryll40daryll40 Posts: 44
    I read on another forum about some rear-end noise on the current bodystyle Explorer/Mountaineer. What is this all about?

    Daryll40, '03 Mountaineer Premier, 22,000 miles
  • mseenviromseenviro Posts: 64
    I have a 2002 Explorer XLT 4x4 with the V-8. I purchased it used in July 2003. Since then it has been in the shop 8 times, three times (and about to be 4) for the ABS light coming on. What the dealer does each time is replace the "Speed Sensor" and the light goes out. After anywhere from 3000 to 10000 miles, it comes back on and they do the same thing.

    I'm thinking they are treating the problem, not the cause. Any one have this problem or know what should be done here?

    I'm getting real sick of this.

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If yours isn't doing it by now, it's not likely to. Most of the affected cars are the Aviators, due to the 305 hp output of the Lincoln engine, the Differentials have not held up as expected, and the clutch packs start making an annoying howling noise intermittantly. It is exacerbated by heat, so in hot weather, it's much more prevelant. Some Mountaineers have reported it, but very few.

    Go to the Aviator site and scroll back quite a bit, and you find more stuff about it.

    Ford has now identified the problem, and ordered new differentials made that should hold up better from the subcontractor, and is getting ready now to replace all those that exhibit the problem. Don't have the TSB number yet, but somebody may.

    Does yours do it? My 02 Mountaineer never did. I just replaced it with an 04 Mountaineer Premier.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    I have a sneaking suspicion it's right front or right rear. curb-bumping kills 'em.
  • mseenviromseenviro Posts: 64
    Not sure which wheel it is, but it is a rear. Considering it has happened four times I doubt it is curb bumping. The service rep told me that Ford has had a bad batch of these sensors and they are replacing them for free until the bad batch is gone. He said they did not know which lot number the bad batch was, but apparently I got three of them.

    We'll see.....anyone else have this problem?
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    I'm on my fourth ABS sensor,and the light came on again last week. I have 57,000 on my '03 XLT. See post #2127.
  • frrussrefrrussre Posts: 41
    Anyone know why this Explorer XLT 2004(loaded), does not have Tire Pressure Monitoring? Window sticker shows delivery 2/9/2004.
    Ford Online & Edmunds show this item for 2004.
    Reg. Frank R.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,596
    Hmmm, good question, I thought all 2004s had it. I bought my 2004 Explorer XLS Sport 1/6/04 and it has it. Manufacture date is Oct 2003 I believe.
  • frrussrefrrussre Posts: 41
    Anyone know why this Explorer XLT 2004(loaded), does not have Tire Pressure Monitoring? Window sticker shows delivery 2/9/2004.
    Ford Online & Edmunds show this item for 2004.
    Reg. Frank R.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    a plainer car and steel wheels may well be easier to fit with sensors than a cast wheel. I remember some moaning and groaning from the car and wheel makers at the time this was ordered by law in 2000, saying about exactly that.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,596
    My 2004 XLS Sport has the same alloy wheels as an XLT, it most certainly does not have steel wheels. It does have the tire pressure monitoring system, its in the valve stem.
  • frrussrefrrussre Posts: 41
    On the window sticker, 2004 XLT shipped 02 09 2004. Door jam shows vehicle was made a few days before. 16" Alloy Rims Standard Equipment does not list the Tire Sensors neither does the list of Optional Equipment. When, I swtich on the ignition, there is no sensor warning lite.
    From the Ford site, above-XLS with alloy rims, FOC Tire Sensors.
    Reg. Frank R.
  • I have a 99 Ford Explorer XLT. This morning I went to back out my driveway and it would not go. It would not go in drive either only low (2). Once I was driving the o/d light started flashing but I was able to put it in drive. I still have no reverse though. Any ideas??
  • fsvfsv Posts: 196
    my MM has 2,300 miles on it. 700 miles ago it has developed some rattle from the center of console, could be on firewall. It sounds like some wire fastener fell out from the place where it was sitting and now is hitting something, when the car shivers from the working engine etc. Did anybody have experience with this problem? My dealer is scratching back of his head...
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Ideas? Yep. your transmission is failing, if it hasn't stopped working altogether already. Better get it to a shop pronto, or you'll be towing it.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Ok, well I'll give this another go. There is something always refreshing about getting a "Microsoft Explorer has encountered a problem and needs to close" message, just as you are about to finish a lengthy post >:-( God Bless ya Bill Gates ;-)

    My wife's 2000 Explorer has been performing very well and is nearing 62,000 miles. However, her vehicle was originally sent to Canada for use there, so DRL's had to be installed per Canadian Law. After its 2 year lease was up, it was sent back to Michigan, where we purchased it in 2002. Now, since about October of last year, the DRL's have been flickering. It looks as though they are operating at about 70% and just flickering, but since in States, it is not required by law to have DRL's, I thought of no reason to spend the money to have them fixed. However, the wife is getting tired of people telling her that something is wrong with her trucks headlights, so now she wants me to get them either turned off or fixed. So after I said my "yes dears" I went out to the Explorer and flipped through the pages of the owners manual trying to find a fuse to pull. Sure enough I found 3 that had DRL listed in their descriptions, only one had DRL by itself with its own fuse. So I pulled that fuse and sure enough, the DRL's turned off. Great right? Naw, after I did that, the brights wouldn't work. So I put the fuse back in, and am stuck. I have a chiltons manual which shows me the wiring diagram for the DRL's, but its hard to follow. Incidentally, I have seen this same condition on one other Explorer in town, which leads me to believe that this may have been a bigger issue in Canada with Explorers? Anyway, other than the dealer, I have no idea where to go next. If any of you have any ideas, please feel free to share! Thanks in advance!

    laungst-
    While what NVbanker said about your transmission could very well be true, you may only have a bad valve body seal. There were a batch of 5-speed autos that went out with improperly torqued transmission valve body bolts. If the seal blows out, you will either have rough shifts, no shifts, or total loss of function. Just a possibility. But get that thing into a pro lickity split!
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    in the exploder, so you're on the right track. there has to be some sort of a service plug that takes the DRL module out of the equation for US use, I would think. call the parts desk and ask 'em. otherwise, you're probably looking at a DRL module, if they have a reference for one.

    or, if you are creative, you could fake one by identifying which wires go in/out of there to the bright filaments, and putting a jumper across them in the module itself. if you need more details other than a wiring diagram, this tip is not for you.

    PS -- if this was originally sent to canada, and you have it here, sounds like a "grey market" truck. I'd call another dealer about the parts, not your regular guy, in hopes you don't get your ownership record flagged in the computer. grey market stuff is not generally supported by the US system because it's "contraband." the fact that they got ripped some thousands of dollars over the reimportation has nothing to do with it, just ask the drug companies :-D

    even if you legitimately bought in hoserland, eh, and moved down here to the states, you could get boxed on the issue.

    one of the regular canadian posters like alcan might have other insights. I don't have my wiring manual here to look at it.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    The truck was purchased at a dealers auction in Flint, Mi. So I'm not worried about it being any color other than it is, black ;-) Thanks for the imput tho. BTW, my Expedition was also originally from Canada (purchased from same auction), and it to has DRL's though I haven't had any problems with them, knock on wood.
  • jokawajokawa Posts: 5
    For the last few weeks, I have noticed eratic oil pressure readings from factory oil pressure guage in instrument cluster. I'll be driving at various speeds and the oil pressure guage will go from normal( Midrange of gauge) to almost no pressure, and back again, with no common denominator. I do not get an "engine" warning light at all. It happens when cold, warm, hot,idling etc. I can drive for 10-15 minutes or longer with no problem and then "bang", there it goes again. I have changed oil, checked level, checked and cleaned connection at pressure sender unit to no avail. I have traced wiring to point where it goes into main harness and gets lost between intake manifold and block.
    Before I pull instrument cluster and check connections there or randomly change sender unit,or " God Forbid" the oil pump, I would like to know if anyone here has had same problem, and if so,what the findings were.
    I use this vehicle for long trips, but I no longer have confidence in it and am using my other vehicle for those trips.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,914
    More help here too:

    Got a Quick, Technical Question?

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    The culprit is mostly likely your oil pressure sender unit (located on the block), getting clogged with oil sludge (no big deal). They are cheap, and not to hard to replace. Oil pumps, rarely fail-very rarely. Goodluck!

    On my issue with the fluctuating headlights (DRLS) I went to the dealer today, and the service manager printed me off a copy of where the module ($65 to replace) was. Went home and disconnected it. Simple as that! Thanks again Swschrad for your imput. Take care buddy.
  • jokawajokawa Posts: 5
    To jrc346.
    Since posting, I have checked price of sender unit. $20.96 at Ford; $10.95 at NAPA. I'ld be a fool not to try that first.Will change sender unit after coming back from FLA. Thanks for the tip
  • idntnvuidntnvu Posts: 251
    Okay guys, I have yet another problem plaguing the orange '99 xls. On my last tank of gas, 87 octane regular from Citgo, I got 12 miles per gallon. That included a little 'round town driving, but mostly interstate, 65-75 mph driving. It usually gets anywhere from 17-21. I've also noticed a slight loss in power. Any suggestions? I should also note that I filled up the first and this past time from the same gas station. It was along my trip route, and was $1.589 versus $1.639 here at home.
  • You probably have a V6 with the 5R55E transmission. These are known to blow out the valve body gaskets. The low/reverse servo as the name implies is used in first and reverse. The cover on the servo also blows out. This most likely is the result of loose bolts that seem to be a real problem with this model transmission. Ford will fix this for about $800 installing a rebuilt valve body (doesn't anyone know how to fix things anymore) or you can do it yourself for about $50.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    fords have a cruel trick. it LOOKS like an oil gauge. but there is a pull-up resistor in the dash. the oil pressure sender is only an on/off switch, somewhere between 6 and 8 PSI it closes, and voila! -- you have oil pressure halfway on the gauge.

    not sure, but on my 90 ranger, I think it was a 1-1/16 inch deep 6 or 12 point socket that I used to change that bugger out. the sender on the 5 liter V8s is right next to the oil pan lip and allegedly blocked by suspension stuff, so when mine turned out to be sticky from the factory, warranty paid for hoisting the engine until they could get to the oil sender.

    the ford part even has the sealer putty applied to the threads. I have had oil senders go awry on many vehicles, never hesitate to replace one if you suspect leaks in that area or the oil pressure seems "iffy" on a car.
  • mikem1mikem1 Posts: 12
    I've had my '04' 4x4 XLS for about amonth now and have been happy with it, save two items , fuel mileage and 1-2 shift in the auto tranny.

    Admitteedly the engine is green, 1100 miles but my highway mileage is disappointed-- around 16. I traded a '98' XLT withthe same drivetrain and got 19-20 mpg consistantly. What should i expect on the highway when this is broken in?

    1-2 tranny shift: with light throttle, the 1-2 and 2-3 shift seems to hesitate. Not terrible, but noticable; something the '98' did not do. Anybody else have this occur?

    BTW, this SUV is great improvement over the 98; the ride and interior are greatly improved.
  • leomortleomort Posts: 451
    How often should you change your tranmission fluid& filter? Maintenence manual says every 30K.

    Also, how often do you change the fuel filter on your Explorer?

    I bought a used 2001 XLT AWD V8 Explorer.

    Currently have a 5-speed manual Toyota Paseo which has the original tranny fluid for it's entire life and the fuel filter which isn't a filter but valve and not recommended to need changing. Thanks

                  Leo
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Transmission fluid, and filter should be changed in all previous generation Explorers every 30,000 miles. The fuel filter should be done at the same time (@ 30,000). To prevent damage and clogging of the fuel injectors, most modern day fuel systems include a paper media filter to catch debris and need to be changed, because they will clog and cause numerous problems. Such as decreased fuel efficiency, rough engine operation, hesitation, and most commonly, fuel pump failure.

    Another handy tip for those interested, is not to ever fill up your vehicle while you see a tanker at the gas station filling the large underground tanks. While these trucks are filling these tanks, all kinds of sediment gets stirred up inside, and can end up in your gas tank. Also to extend the life of your fuel pump, don't let the gas level go below 1/4 of a tank, as the gas is used to keep the fuel pump cool.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    not only do you keep the fuel pump from overheating, you keep running. the pre-2002 explorers have tank anti-slosh baffles that curiously can hold fuel away from the pump inlet. if you make a left turn from a stop, and don't do it like granny with her arthritis kicking up, a quarter-tank level or less will cause you to stall out.

    had a coworker ready to trade because of this, convinced her truck was going south fast. I set her straight on this issue, and she was happy with it for the next 40,000.
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