I have a Ford Explorer 2006, the light on the shift indicator is not working, this is where you see the P R N D 1 2 3. Can anyone tell me please, on which fuse the light is connected to. I tried to check the light bulb and it seems okay, so I guess it might be a busted fuse. Thanks!
the fuse box for that is under the dashboard (steering Wheel) if u check the manual u will be able to identify the fuse.They all have a specific number and spot. Good Luck
I have a Ford Explorer 2006,everything has been fine until recently, when I started having trouble filling up the gas tank. The gas pump keeps stopping – every 30 seconds or so – while I’m trying to fill it. I thought it was the nozzle that had a problem, but after trying with other gas stations, it was still the same. Any ideas/help please...why does the gas pump nozzle keep turning off??
Couple of things- be sure that the tanks is not actually full. Just be sure the gauge is not faulty. That said, there is a check valve in the filler neck that must open to let fuel be added. There is a bypass hole so some gas will go down the filler tube but slowly. Remember your chemistry here and do not poke a screw driver down the neck to open the valve. Sparks are not your friend here. However, you may use a section of stiff hose or other rubber product to loosen the check valve or determine if something is blocking the tube. If your are not familiar with working around gasoline fumes, then please use a garage to replace the check valve. Let me know what you find!
I have a 97 explorer sport I had major coolant leak looks like back of engine I have torn down to lower intake manifold. That is were all is pooling and most on left side. Any suggestions of the source????
I was driving my explorer down to work, and then my radio started turning on and off. Then I started losing acceleration, and when i went to press the break my abs lights went on. Every time i pressed the breaks there would be a dinging noise. This is most likely my alternator having issues right?
Most likely. However, test the battery after charging with an external charger. It could be sucking the life out of the charging sytem. Also do not forget to check the batt cables for corrosion and to make sure they are actually still connected. Remember that anytime the battery is disconnected or discharged to the level you are describing, that the ECU will need to cycle for a while before your vehicle runs correctly again. The engine may speed up and down and idle rough before the computer gets enough info from the sensors to smooth everything out. A word on batterys, the more expensive ones are just adding the price of the warranty on. Concentrate on the cold cranking amps, get all you can afford, that is suggested for your vehicle. If you live in a warmer climate, dont worry to much about COLD cranking amps either. The salesman will tell you differnt but he's just trying to boost sells. I managed a major parts store for some time. Let me know!
I have a problem with my 03 explorer and the infamous flashing “O.D.Off “ light. The truck has 58K miles and showed no signs of transmission issues. My wife was driving home and the O.D Off light started blinking. A few miles down the highway later smoke started coming from under the hood. She managed to drive home (only a couple of miles) with white smoke pouring out The white smoke was caused by a cracked thermostat housing, but the entire engine compartment was covered with dripping Antifreeze fluid. My theory is that the OD light is related to the engine compartment getting soaked with anti freeze since they happened minutes apart. Does anyone know what might be causing the OD off light?
The OD light flashing is a warning that your Transmission is going out. Taking it out of OD and keeping it out will usually let you continue to use it indefinitely in that situation. It's possible I guess that something got wet from the coolant eruption and shorted out that circuit causing the light to turn on. Eventually, however, it should go back to normal. If it doesn't, your transmission may yet fail.
I cannot start my explorer because the anti theft system. I've been having my driver's side door latch fixed, and am still waiting for 2 more parts, so I cannot unlock it from the drivers side. I had a mechanic come out and he couldn't fix it, and he said that since the theft light doesn't even come on, it might be the computer, but he doesn't know.
Why would the system just activate on its own? How do I disable or bypass it so I can start my car? I really don't want to tow it to a dealership-that would be very expensive? Why is this system even on the car if the owner can't disable it? I have 2 keys, but they don't have buttons to lock or unlock the doors.
I have a 2001 explorer that have a 2 second slip in reverse and when your first put it in drive. The shift from 1st to 2rd have a 1 second slip at 1900 rpm. All that is when you first start it up cold, but when it warms up the 1st to 2rd shift is less than 1 second or sometime not at all. Checked the fluid and found that it was brown like oil but there was no burned smell to it. So i dropped the trans pan and changed the filter and found no metal and not much grime on the magnet or pan. Reinstalled the pan and started and truck up and replaced the fluid til the level was between the two holes on the dipstick ( 3.7 quarts ) But the trans fluid still looked like crap!! Test drove it and had alittle better shift but thats it So my question is could i have the trans fluid totally changed (9 quarts)? Ive been told NEVER flush your trans, but why is there a trans flush service if no one use them; i was thinking on getting the flush, but now i don't know. Any help i can get would be great....Thanks
I was trying to 'help' the liftgate open quicker than it wanted to the other day and snapped the end of one of the struts, although was able to reattach it. Since it was held on just by compression, I decided to replace it. Didn't want the liftgate to land on someone's head. Dealer price is about $70 per strut for a 2002. Bought from partgeek for less than $25 each delivered. They are branded Sachs, but look exactly like the originals. 10 minutes to replace both.
I have a continued question on this matter that I can't find. I also have a burned out bulb in the A/C panel cluster, any idea how to replace that? What kind of bulb it is, etc? There may be a bulb burned out in the radio as well. Any way to replace that without replacing the radio? Any assistance you can lend on these 2 related items would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I've never hear not to flush your transmission - and I've flushed plenty of mine. I would do that to yours as well. If you want to flush it yourself, disconnect the pressure line that goes to your radiator for cooling, and point it into a large pan. Start the engine, and start pouring fluid from a 2 gallon bottle of new fluid. Keep doing this until the fluid changes from brown to nice and red. You're done. Reconnect the line and drive. It may be better, and it may get better in time. That's a tough old transmission. You may well recover it.
I have owned my 1991 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer limited edition for 8 years.It has been driven cross country several times,on the the first trip we made it 500 miles and the main belt broke in half after that I have had very few problems with it. 3 years ago I had a water pump replaced,and that same year a solenoid. we made a move 4yrs ago to Texas from Montana. since the move it has some definite performance changes during the hottest part of the year. This explorer has 312K miles on it,It had 148K when I bought it in march of 2004. I couldn't ask for a better vehicle.I read a lot of the comments posted and I'm very thankful our "Dora the Explora" (my daughter was 3 when we bought her and she named her after her hero ) hasn't given us a lot of problems. The explorer has been in the cooler northern part of the country it's entire existence, until my daughter and I moved to Texas. I don't know if it's the drastic climate change but there is a definite change in Dora's performance. I am not mechanically inclined and used to have someone help me with the minor problems with Dora. Could someone please tell me if the drastic temperature change can effect it's performance? I was planning to retire Dora at the end of the year but cant afford to right now. I know the exhaust system needs replaced but over the last week Dora acts like the fuel cant get where it needs to go.It is also having a problem when I put my foot on the gas it takes a little while for it to pick up speed and has "coughed" and a "puff" came from the exhaust and then it worked better for a couple days and now it is back to doing the same thing as before the 'cough". I am the least mechanically inclined person I know. I thought maybe a plugged fuel filter ?? I don't have a lot of money to put into the repairs but I need my vehicle for at least a couple more months,if anyone could give me some possible suggestions to try,Iwould very much appreciate it
I have a Ford Explorer 2006 that is bouncing a lot of coolant. After two days straight of bounce it, stop it and the workshop still do not know what is the problem. They decided to change the water pump and also saw a hose from the water pump that was expanded and decided to change it. Fifteen days ago they changed the thermostat because they thought that the coolant was pouring down there. One year and a half ago they changed it for the first time, and a year ago they changed the radiator. Has anyone had any problems like this?
I just bought a used 2001 Ford Explorer Sport and I noticed it has stains on the back windshield. They look like rust, because they are coming from those two little black circles on the back windshield, so I'm not really 100% sure. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove these stains?? Thanks so much!!
Alright I have a 2000 mercury mountaineer. I've been having intermittent starting problems. As of right now I have replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, fuel pump, and fuel filter. It was running "alright" for a couple months. It would have a few problems starting but would eventually start. Now it's dead in the water. My fuel pump is sending fuel. I removed the line before and after my fuel filter each individually and turned key on engine off and I have fuel going through. But when I reconnected and check the fuel pressure port there is no fuel going to it. What could it be?
My ford was giving starting issues as well n we checked the battery. The battery has a certain amount of cranks, ours was shot. Bought a new one and now it's running like new.
Comments
Any ideas/help please...why does the gas pump nozzle keep turning off??
That said, there is a check valve in the filler neck that must open to let fuel be added. There is a bypass hole so some gas will go down the filler tube but slowly. Remember your chemistry here and do not poke a screw driver down the neck to open the valve. Sparks are not your friend here. However, you may use a section of stiff hose or other rubber product to loosen the check valve or determine if something is blocking the tube.
If your are not familiar with working around gasoline fumes, then please use a garage to replace the check valve.
Let me know what you find!
Remember that anytime the battery is disconnected or discharged to the level you are describing, that the ECU will need to cycle for a while before your vehicle runs correctly again. The engine may speed up and down and idle rough before the computer gets enough info from the sensors to smooth everything out.
A word on batterys, the more expensive ones are just adding the price of the warranty on. Concentrate on the cold cranking amps, get all you can afford, that is suggested for your vehicle. If you live in a warmer climate, dont worry to much about COLD cranking amps either. The salesman will tell you differnt but he's just trying to boost sells.
I managed a major parts store for some time.
Let me know!
The truck has 58K miles and showed no signs of transmission issues.
My wife was driving home and the O.D Off light started blinking. A few miles down the highway later smoke started coming from under the hood.
She managed to drive home (only a couple of miles) with white smoke pouring out
The white smoke was caused by a cracked thermostat housing, but the entire engine compartment was covered with dripping Antifreeze fluid.
My theory is that the OD light is related to the engine compartment getting soaked with anti freeze since they happened minutes apart.
Does anyone know what might be causing the OD off light?
2) Assume no transmission irregularities at all?
The OD light flashing is a warning that your Transmission is
going out. Taking it out of OD and keeping it out will usually let you continue to use it indefinitely in that situation. It's possible I guess that something got wet from the coolant eruption and shorted out that circuit causing the light to turn on. Eventually, however, it should go back to normal. If it doesn't, your transmission may yet fail.
Why would the system just activate on its own? How do I disable or bypass it so I can start my car? I really don't want to tow it to a dealership-that would be very expensive? Why is this system even on the car if the owner can't disable it? I have 2 keys, but they don't have buttons to lock or unlock the doors.
Any insight would really help.
Lisa
Since it was held on just by compression, I decided to replace it. Didn't want the liftgate to land on someone's head.
Dealer price is about $70 per strut for a 2002. Bought from partgeek for less than $25 each delivered.
They are branded Sachs, but look exactly like the originals.
10 minutes to replace both.
I have a continued question on this matter that I can't find. I also have a burned out bulb in the A/C panel cluster, any idea how to replace that? What kind of bulb it is, etc? There may be a bulb burned out in the radio as well. Any way to replace that without replacing the radio? Any assistance you can lend on these 2 related items would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.