Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • What are the exact circumstances when each of these problems occur? How many miles on the vehicle now?

    Transmission - Have you kept up all maintenance? Did you check to be sure the fluid level is correct? Are you sure the gear shift lever is engaging properly? Strange that sometimes it moves, and sometimes it doesn't. The inconsistency makes diagnosing from a distance difficult.

    Door ajar light - There must a be mis-adjusted door switch. Be sure all doors and back hatch are closed tight. Check each door/hatch by watching the light while having someone repeatedly open and close each door/hatch, to see if you can tell which one it is.

    Right rear wheel whining noise - Could you be more specific, does this happen when moving? How fast? Any particular speed? Does it make the noise both in forward and reverse. Does the pitch of the whine vary with the speed or is it constant? Has the rear axle ever had any work done on it? Fluid level in rear axle may need to be checked. They say that it doesn't need to be checked, but any that I have checked with over 75,000 miles needed fluid to be added.

    The V8 engines and transmissions are generally very reliable on these vehicles. I have a 2000 with V8 and Automatic 2 wheel drive, and very happy with it. Don't give up yet, these may be very minor issues. Hope I can help.
    Good Luck,
  • What conditions does this noise happen at? At any certain speed? Slow speed? Highway speed? I'm sure it never happens when still, right? If that is the case, a good possibility would be wind noise causing something to vibrate. Could be the roof rack vibrating. Try taking off the cross supports from the roof rack, throw them in the back, and see if the problem goes away. Do you have anything else on there that could catch the wind, like a bug shield or vent shades?
    Good Luck,
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I could of course be wrong, but I'm betting your funny noise, both in the rear, and in the front vent, is a bad expansion valve in your evaporator for your air conditioner talking to you. I've run into this quite a bit. It's an eerie sound, tough to isolate because it does it infrequently, and it's such a short burst, you can't find it before it's over. But when it's finally been tracked down, that's what it's been every time.
  • When my 2000 Explorer (bought new, serviced religiously) was brought in for 100K mile servicing, the tranny was also serviced. Since then, the "O/D Off" light will start to flash at any given time. Once I park the truck, let it set overnight, it is fine for another 1000 miles or so, then the light returns. I've taken it back to the dealer X3.. each time a code "intermittant slippage" is observed. During the last visit the dealer said either rebuild or replace.. I believe this is just too coincidental.. the light never flashed until they last serviced the tranny. When the light is not flashing the tranny shifts flawlessly. Is this truly a precursor of worse things to come, or could it simply be a worn part, sensor, solenoid. etc? Tx.
  • gasburnergasburner Posts: 31
    I have a 99 Explorer XLT Sport Package, V8 2WD with about 60K miles that I bought new. Most of the miles have been in heavy city (stop and go) traffic. I also occasionally tow an 18' boat. After about 6 years I can say, overall it has been a good experience and don't regret the purchase. The engine and trans. have been rock solid. I've had a few minor things that needed to be repaired, like the windshield wipers with a mind of their own. Probably the most significant repair has been the ball joints and sway bar in the front end (all covered under warranty). I have a potential issue developing that I'm trying to figure out and I'm looking for feedback. I hear a poping/clunking noise coming from the right front of the car while going over bumps. It sounds like it is coming from inside the car, from under the dash, near glove box area. I've looked at the front suspension components and everything looks OK, at least that I can tell, and the front sway bar brackets were recently replaced and it didn't affect the noise. Anybody have any ideas of what this could be? I've read some have had problems with parts in the air box getting loose. How can I tell if this is the case? Any way tor further test the suspension components?

    Oh, by the way, how the heck do you lube the front suspension?
  • nennen Posts: 3
    It has occurred at varying speed from, say, 15-20 mph to highway speed. No bug shields or vent shades. I'll check the roof rack.

    All maintenance is done at recommended intervals, and I check fluid levels periodically. Vehicle has 35,000 miles. Have never heard in reverse, but as mentioned above it's only at higher speeds than I ever hit in reverse.

    Thanks for the suggestions.
  • bradlicbradlic Posts: 8
    I have a 2005 Mountaineer and there is a fluid leaking, it apperas to becoming from under the center of the vehicle. Is this where the transmission is located? I thought the transmission was near the front.

    Thanks for any help.
  • I recently had a car accident which altered my 2000 Honda CRV's frame. The mechanic said it was bent two inches in and had to be taken to a body shop for repair. How much is that going to cost me?
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    I have a 99 v8 4WD that had a pop noise in the front suspension. It was darn hard to nail down, but ended up being the torsion bar rear mounts/pads.

    I could reproduce the noise as follows:

    Find a really obnoxious speed bump. (Old Kmarts seem to have really bad ones)

    You want to hit the bump at just the right speed, so that as you are on top of the bump your hood is rising quickly, and as you drive off of the bump your wheels drop down fuly extending your suspension. The combination of your hood going up while your wheels drop off of the bump gets that full extension. Your hood / front end will then drop, pretty well compressing the front suspension. You should hear the pop at this point.

    Hit the bump too slow, and the hood is dropping down before you drive off the bump and your suspension doesn't extend. Too fast, the hood never "bounces up" in reaction to the bump. You gotta get that hood bounce to fully extend the front suspension.

    If you can consistently reproduce the noise this way, ford or a good front end shop can put the sniffers(electronic ears) on the front end and you can drive the bump till they nail down what part makes the noise.

    Since you have had a fair amount of front end work already, I would say this becomes a pretty strong possibility as quite a few of your other parts have been replaced.

    In my case they replaced sway bar tie links front and rear , tie rod ends, lower right control arm and sway bar mounts and bushings front and rear, before I figured out the speed bump test.

    Can't lube the front end, there are no zerk fittings. You can spray wd 40 on all your front end bushings, but I doubt this will do anything.

    Oh, just for grins, reach behind your intake manifold and make sure the PCV valve is still in the grommet and hoses attached.. Its right next to the firewall, and if it blows out it clunks around. This is a real longshot, but it never hurts to check.....
  • nitromaxnitromax Posts: 641
    I have a 2005 Mountaineer and there is a fluid leaking, it apperas to becoming from under the center of the vehicle. Is this where the transmission is located? I thought the transmission was near the front.

    Sounds like the tail end of the transmission may be leaking. Slide under the vehicle with some paper towels and locate the wet spot.
  • eng6ineeng6ine Posts: 29
    My Question is, has anyone replaced thier fuel filter on an Explorer (2004 V6)? I cannot locate the fuel filter. I have a new one so I know what it looks like but am unable to find it under my Explorer. And the manual that comes with the vehicle does not show where it is located, they say have your authorized Ford dealer do it.......come on now, it's a fuel filter not a big deal.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    If the 2004 is similar to older models, the fuel filter is located inside the left frame rail in an area under the left front door. Remember to have the special tool needed to remove the filter from the fuel line. Make sure you read all the safety precautions. Fuel is under pressure and if the old filter is removed incorrectly you will end up with a face full of fuel!
  • txlegmantxlegman Posts: 8
    Mine did the same. Finally unlocked after hitting the button over and over again. Now it won't open at all. Can't get an appointment for a week. Were able to find out what went wrong?
  • bradlicbradlic Posts: 8
    My Mercury dealer called this morning and said that the transmission drain plug was installed crooked at the factory and striped the trans case, which needs to be replaced. This will take a week, and the dealer does not want to get me a loaner car.
  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Posts: 544
    They should give you a loaner car in that situation, especially since your vehicle is so new.

    Maybe I'm just in a bad mood today, but I'd tell them that if I don't have a car, I'll just have to hang around their sales floor and relate my story to all of the potential customers that I can.
  • ohmyfordohmyford Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a 2003 4x4 v8 explorer which should have been turned in as a lemon from the get go. But of course, like other people I listened to the 4 different dealers I took it to that said "these things are normal". Now my latest problem is totally frustrating. My computer reset itself about two weeks ago, and right after, I noticed my mpg gage was going crazy. Going up to 40+ miles down to 1 mile per gallon. I shut it down for an hour or two, and it was fine again. So, I thought nothing of it. Today, the only electric I have on my truck is the ignition, wipers, door locks, and lights in the on position. Nothing else works. Which leads me to believe it is not the battery. My airbags are off along with my advance track. Any suggestions/solutions are welcome. Tomorrow I am sure I will hear "It is normal" from the dealership.
  • ga_peachga_peach Posts: 1
  • slim6ftslim6ft Posts: 1
    i am unable to shift from park with the brake depressed, i have checked fuses, i have depressed parking brake turned key to lock removed key inserted key depressed brake turned key to off position and still couldnt get out of park, brake lights work, i don't know what to do from here cause i don't know where the shift lock actuator is located or what it looks like, can anyone help?
    The Ford A4LD Automatic transmission has been problematic. Go BACK in this forum and read POSTS # 3735, 3736, 3744, 3745, 3746, 3747 and 3751, and that will be the answers to you question.
    Good Luck,
  • nitromaxnitromax Posts: 641
    Now my latest problem is totally frustrating. My computer reset itself about two weeks ago, and right after, I noticed my mpg gage was going crazy. Going up to 40+ miles down to 1 mile per gallon. I shut it down for an hour or two, and it was fine again. So, I thought nothing of it. Today, the only electric I have on my truck is the ignition, wipers, door locks, and lights in the on position. Nothing else works. Which leads me to believe it is not the battery. My airbags are off along with my advance track. Any suggestions/solutions are welcome. Tomorrow I am sure I will hear "It is normal" from the dealership.

    It sounds like a loose connection in one of your main electrical cable bundles. I wonder if all of the problematic issues are tied into one cable bundle.
  • borrelliborrelli Posts: 1
    Several electrical components are no longer working on my 96 Ford Explorer. The components not working are as follows: key pad on the door (keyless entry), theft light (dashboard-the alarm has not gone off since the other features stopped working), Cruise control (dashboard light-the actual cruise control still works), and the automatic lock feature when the car starts moving at a certain speed.

    I would really like to get this fixed. Has anyone had similar problems? Any solutions?

    thanks so much!
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    I think you're talking about the rear end diff fluid. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and it's leaking from about the same spot that you're talking about. The dealer fixed it 2 times and it still leaked, and eventually on the 3rd time they had to replace the entire differential (rear end). Good luck.
  • shumatemjshumatemj Posts: 1
    I hope someone could give us some info on our ford. It uses about 1 1/2 quarts every week and a half. It doesn't leak, it doesn't smoke, we have no smell of burning oil. But no one can tell me where the oil is going. any help would be great. :confuse:
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    You didn't mention what engine you have.

    If you have the V8 302, and all of your plugs look normal ( meaning no head gasket oil leaks) and have otherwise been told the engine is fine, then the most likely culprit is your PCV valve. Most likely you will find oil in the PCV hoses if this is your engine.

    My 302 sucks oil up the PCV and burns it, altho not as fast as yours. If you have any pinging on long hills or steep hills that is another indicator.

    I have played with my PCV system (new valve,, etc. etc.) and could not stop it from sucking oil, so I ended up putting an oil separator ( oil catch can) on it. It seems to drink 5/30 faster than 15/50 so I use the heavier oil.

    Would be interested to hear back if that is the culprit or what the problem turns out to be!
  • teacher7teacher7 Posts: 3
    I'll give the procedure a try when I get home this evening and let you know how I came out.
    Thanks for the quick help.
  • Hello...anyone have any advice regarding the failure of a Borg-Warner 4405 (F77A-GA) electronically controlled transfer case? My vehicle started making a banging/ratcheting sound at +30 mph every 5 seconds or so and degraded to a violent ratcheting about 1 to 2 times per second. At first I thought it was a locking hub failure, but I located the source of the noise once the transfer case failed. Now it drives fine in 4WD Low, but remains stationary and screams with a terrible grinding sound when placed in 4WD Hi or Auto and with the tranny engaged in either reverse or drive. I took a look underneath and it looks like the rear seal of the transfer case has been leaking fluid. Am I better off rebuilding the unit, or buying a transfer case with 51K miles that I've located at a local salvage yard for $550? BTW, my 4.0 L Explorer has 131,000 miles on it. I've been told that the yokes in the transfer case may need to be replaced, but I'm not sure of the extent of damage.

    Thanks in advance for any advice sent my way!
  • ok, so i let my rear brakes go way to far. and know we are having issuse removing the rotors. they appear to be stuck on the emergency brake pads. did we miss some thing?
  • kmcgrathkmcgrath Posts: 1
    I don't know the answer, but I can share with you that my '98 ford explorer started doing exactly the same thing about 4 weeks ago. The other doors will unlock, but the driver's side will unlock only after pushing the unlock button on the passenger side 10-20 times.
  • eng6ineeng6ine Posts: 29
    Finally found the fuel filter, gonna have to remove a heat shield and part of the fuel tank shield to get to it....this is why it cost $90.00 to have it changed at the dealer.
    And I will be getting the right tool for the job, heard some bad stories about people not having the right tool for the job and it could get ugly.
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    I am a miner, hardrockminer, to the shafthouse, I must go.....(Cowboy Junkies, The Trinity Sessions) Pretty good song.

    Sounds like your chain is slipping in your transfer case.

    A complete parts kit, including chain, can be had for around 250.00. Since your chain is probably slipping, you most likely need some new drive gears for the chain, which would be extra - they are not part of the normal rebuild kit.

    Rebuilding takes some tools - gear pullers, bearing pullers, etc. And the main output shaft nut has 250 lbs of torque on it, so air tools are good here. Not sure how much wrench time you have - it's not a beginners job, but if you can follow instructions you can probably handle it.

    Search rebuilt transfer cases on the net. They can be had with 12/12 warranties for somewhere around 750.00 and shipping. Maybe a little less

    550.00 for a used one is kind of high in my opinion unless they are pulling it out for you.
    You might try some other salvage yards and see if you can do better.

    I'm going to go get my Cowboy Junkies cd and put it on.......
Sign In or Register to comment.