Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2001 - 2006 Honda CR-Vs

1187188190192193522

Comments

  • dudkadudka Posts: 451
    i was cross shopping rav4 before getting the cr-v (mine is gen1) one hting i would not want to hear from a toyota dealer is him dissing honda, just like when i went to greenwich honda and told them about the deal toyota had on 4runner, and rav4, they started to diss toyota. both makes are very fine manufacturers, and if either dealer would try to tell me that the other is junk, i would not buy from that dealer, because i would know he is lying.
    anyway, the test that rav4 was subjected to and failed was basically me sitting in the fornt seat confortably, then without changing the seat position i would try to place my self in the back seat behind the driver's seat. since the only way i could fit is by speading my legs to let my knees bo on either side of the seatback, rav4 was deemed a failure. the fact that in june 2001 rav4 was a so called "hot commodity" the dealer wanted almost $25 000 for rav4 with the options i had in mind. being a honda guy, i had no problem switching from the civic to cr-v, the contorls are in the same place and everythinng else is familiar and the fact that cr-v se driveaway price was $22 000 helped too. it was an easy descision.
    the moral is, never trust dealers who diss other makes, if this is all he has to say about his product, then maybe he needs to learn more about the product itself. i bet you most of us here know more about honda's products than most salespeople do.
  • The Toyota sales guy did not diss Honda and spoke in general as they were of the same quality. He clearly stated that the RAV4 had a superior 4wd system. He also knew I presently own two Honda's. I believe most of us feel Toyota is Honda's closest competitor.
  • Does the exterior finish clear coat have to cure/age for a period of time before you can apply the first coat of wax to this car? What products are good to protect the finish on the alloy wheels?
  • Hi gang, I too have a crv on order from Mark Roberts. Everything has been very smooth so far. I noticed that the long rant from a poster was deleted where he dissed the service manager and said his new dealership was Joe Marina Honda. Someone said that this person was a car dealer and that is why I suspect the post was removed. I just wanted to know if this was the case.
    I actually chose the crv over the Highlander. There was a difference. Toe HL was bigger and more refined, but the difference is not worth the price premium. I tend to drive cars until they are not worth repairing. So I am very interested in Honda. I hope they get the "bugs" worked out.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    If I recall correctly, the RT4WD system works on pressure. Viscosity isn't an issue. If the fluid is flowing, the system is working. It doesn't matter how fast it flows as long as it is flowing evenly.

    Canwin2 - I've never read anything that confirms what the dealer told you about speeds over 80 kpm. Regardless, is there a reason why you'd need the system to engage at that speed? If anyone is driving at those speeds on ice or snow, they have a problem that no car manufacturer can fix. =)

    Okay, all that said, the RAV4 does have a better system if your only concern is traction. At low speeds, the proactive system has a better chance of preventing slippage than a reactive system like the CR-V's, Escape's, and VUE's. The split second it takes for a reactive system to kick in might be enough to allow the car to rotate into a spin or some other difficult to control situation. How significant the differences are is always open to debate.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    doesn't the RAV4 have a locking centre differential? I agree with varmint that the RAV4 system is superior if your priority is traction. I think the RAV4 has nice styling too. Its negatives are cramped interior space, overstyled interior (IMO) and high prices.
  • rockycowrockycow Posts: 114
    The first thing you should do is check your sales agreement and see if there is a stamp that says "non refundable deposit". If there is, there is not much you can do. The one thing that Mark Roberts has a problem with is determining exactly when a vehicle will be delivered. As "inky" has said and I have personally observed, you don't get much advanced notice when your car is going to arrive, you get a call saying "it in". Is a 30 day additional wait for the Mark Roberts deal that obnoxious? In Denver no dealer will budge below sticker. Hope you car comes in 1 April that would be an appropriate date, N'est-ce-pas?
    rockycow. PS my M/R Chianti red CRV is due in April.
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    Well here in Quebec we drive much faster than 80 kph on ice and snow. Otherwise the winter would be long and dull. The trick is good tires and a smooth touch on the steering....
  • I'm glad to see that other new CRV-Auto owners are still posting regarding the infamous clicking noise. I believe if all new CRV-Auto owners (that hear the noise) make an issue of the clicking noise with service technician, Honda may finally have to come up with some type of solution. I hate the noise and it is the most annoying issue I've dealt with in a new car.

    To samstr: at least your dealer attempted to come up with a solution; my dealer closed the door on the problem and told me, "until Honda comes up with a solution (which he didn't anticipate would be coming anytime soon) there's nothing we can do about it." I still believe it's a DEFECT because no other car on the market has this noise..I believe HONDA should admit to this DEFECT and find a solution. Come on, you can send a man to the moon, but you can't find a solution to this problem (give me a break). Most new CRV buyers, like myself, didn't even know this problem existed during the purchase phase so the problem was over looked. If this was a characteristic of the vehicle the sales person should have disclosed the noise and let the buyer determine if the noise was an issue to them. Also, I had a lot of faith in the Honda name so I didn't even consider such a problem would occur. Anyway, that's my two cents and I will continue to take issue with this problem until Honda at least ATTEMPTS to fix it. If anyone has discussed this problem with their service technician, please post outcome. Thanks!

    Also, I still have a problem with a rocking drivers seat. I have an appointment with service next week. I will post outcome!!!
  • I have a 2002 CR-V EX. I had Micheline X - One tires installed at the dealership before I picked up the vehicle. I'm riding around with them at about 33 lbs. of air pressure. I wanted tires with what I assumed is a less aggressive tread and have them inflated on the high side to help myself with mileage. I conducted the following "tests". I understand they are not "scientific" but I wanted to do some casual checking.
    1. With mileage at about 2,700, I drove it at 60 m.p.h. with some in town driving (about 85-90% on highways. I got 24.8 mpg. Drove about 100 miles. Some stops with engine off.
    2. With mileage at about 2800, I drove it at 65 m.p.h. with some in town driving (again, about 85-90% on highways. I got 24.7 mpg. Drove it about 100 miles, again with some stops with engine off.
    3. With mileage at about 2900, I drove it at about 71 m.p.h. with some in town driving (again, about 85-90% on highways. I got about 24.4. Drove it about 100 miles, again with some stops with the engine off.

    Should I be disappointed in the mileage I'm getting? Sticker says 26 mpg for highway. I thought with the less agressive Micheling tread (assuming it is less aggressive) and the higher air pressure that I would be doing much better on the mileage. I realize that I don't have much in the way of miles on my vehicle and that it likely will do better in the future. Any other ideas? Anyone doing much in the way of checking your mileage? Appreciate any feedback you can give.
  • edxsedxs Posts: 6
    Somebody removed my post about Mark Roberts!

    First of all, I am NOT a car dealer. I am a computer programmer. I live in Tulsa, OK working with a local aviation company. I noticed that some people here have posted lots of good words about Mark Roberts. That was the reason I chose them as my dealer of CR-V. But actually they are the WORST dealer I ever had! I ended up wasting one month of time and going to a local dealer.

    The host of this board removed my post and said: “Your specific post has violated our Unauthorized Commercial Activity regarding Solicitation/Promotion. "You agree that, except with Edmunds.com's prior consent, you will not solicit or promote any products or services, nor self-promote (either in your Postings or in your profiles) for personal gain within Town Hall. You agree you will not use information supplied within Town Hall to solicit or promote any products or services via email or any other method. You agree to not gather public email addresses from member profiles for the purposes of spamming or soliciting members. You agree to not promote other auto forums that provide message boards or chats."”

    But I noticed all good words about Mark Roberts remain on this board. I just couldn’t understand it.

    Here I re-post the 2nd half of my story. I removed the name of the local dealer for NOT violate the Member Agreement.

    Dear Host: Please DO NOT remove this post, I just want to complain about Mark Roberts’ service and let other people know our unpleasant experience. Thanks!

    ROCKYCOW: Thanks for your input, the sale manager told me that they will sent the check back on Monday.

    DCHPHOTO: I am NOT a dealer. I just want to get a new car for my wife, she is pregnant. We have switched our cars. I will be driving her 94 Protégé until we get the CR-V.

    JHEIL: Thank you for the message, good luck!

    ########################################
    Today (2/9/02) we called Mark Roberts. All we wanted was staying with them and asking for some small compensation, 'cause they made the mistake, they should apologize and show something to us that they really feel sorry.

    To our surprise, the sales manager changed his words. He said that my car SHOULD arrive in April, the information about March arriving was just a miscommunication between the laid-off sales man and us. The sales manager even told me that I either stayed with them, or took the deposit back, no other choices. And he also said that since yesterday I told him I'd rather stayed with them, so to discuss about anything else was a totally waste of his time. MAN! They wasted us one month of time and the sales manager told me I was wasting his time!

    We were very angry. These guys not only know nothing about how to manage their orders and sales persons, but also have absolutely no ideas of how to treat their customers!

    So we told that guy to give us deposit back. Then I called *** Honda in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Their sales man told me that they could match the price. We went there, signed the contract, and paid $200 deposit. We were told that our new CR-V EX would arrive in mid-April.

    Anyway, Mark Roberts is the worst dealer I ever had. Maybe they feel that their prices and business are so good that they don't have to treat their customers nice.

    We will write Mark Roberts' general manager a letter about this matter,
    and I would post my story whenever I see somebody recommends this dealer
    on this board. Hey guys! If this thing happened to us, it could happen
    to anybody! And the other words I want to say are always trying your
    local dealer, asking them if they can match their price, and if you
    already placed order at Mark Roberts, you'd better check your order
    status every week in case your sales person get laid-off and they just
    forget about you car.

    Again, my new dealer is *** Honda in Tulsa, Oklahoma, and they
    treated us well. Check out their web site at ***.
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 7,764
    Typically you won't achieve the EPA results listed on the sticker until you have really broken in the powertrain. At about 10K miles is when you can really start to expect to achieve a number close to the EPA results. Also, the EPA test is a smulation done under optimum conditions. You may never achieve those figures.

    I presume you are filling the tank after each of these tests. When doing so, make sure you use the same pump at the same station, and don't top off. This will give you a more realistic use of fuel. Additionally, drive more than 100 miles. Try measuring over full tanks rather than the 5 gallons you are now.

    Good Luck.
  • seguyseguy Posts: 133
    picked up our silver auto awd lx last wednesday, and the first impression of owning and driving it for the first 200 miles is very positive. We live in the Colorado area, and both of us notice the better low end rpm response when compared to our 4cyl accord. Interesting note, I remember reading somewhere that you lose approx 3% engine hp for every 1000 ft in elevation. Wanted to a second opinion and found a site on the internet that calculates hp correction based on altitude, barometric pressure, and relative humidity. Seems like we lose about 18%. I guess that's why our cars seem more responsive whenever we go down to san diego or san antonio, but not 18% more! Well my wife is happy with the V, as she'll drive it most of the time. She at first wanted an odyssey, then I mentioned the crv, since we have only a 21 month old, with no plans for another for at least 2 more years. She said okay to the V, only to find out after we signed the papers, that she still wanted the ody. Well, after finally driving it this weekend, her disappointment in not getting the ody has left. She really likes the V's extra room and power, over the accord, and realized that was good enough for us at this time.
    Also ordered a set of 16" rims/tires from discount tires, a few things from hparts, although the keyless and metal trim are on back order, and getting the windows tinted tomorrow. will try to post picks when i can.
  • sluglineslugline Posts: 391
    http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/info.shtml#estimates

    During the simulated test, the vehicle never exceeds 60 mph. It is generally accepted that fuel economy drops as you go faster than 60 mph, especially for a vehicle shaped like the CR-V.

    There are a couple of other factors to consider: One is "winter gas" sold in some parts of the country, which many people say does not perform the same as the stuff they buy in the summer. The other is altitude. As I hear more and more CR-V owners talk about their gas mileage, it seems as if drivers near sea level (like me) don't do as well as the ones at higher elevations. Could the lower drag of thinner air be helping?
  • I believe lower drag may help mpg, but there is one other main factor to consider. If there's less dense air at higher altitudes to pull into the engine, there will be less fuel needed for the engine to create the proper oxygen/fuel mixture. So you have two factors helping at higher altitudes :)
  • I looked but couldn't find where anyone of you fine folks answered my question about tire size on the standard EX rims. Does anyone hear know the maximum size of 15" tire that one can put on these rims, and still be very safe?

    Thanks
  • crviccrvic Posts: 37
    I live in Southern Wisconsin. I drive 86 miles roundtrip on I-90 and go 73-75 for 60 mph and the rest 60 mph. I get 22-23.3 MPG during the week.

    However, on the weekends I get 19-21 MPG given that I run my errands to places 1-2 miles away from home several times a day. Needless to say the engine doesn't completely warm up. Also I notice that I get the best mph when temperatures are above 40 degrees. We get the 'winter gas' too, especially in the area where I live...they have a different blend b/c of enviromental reasons.

    I have been somewhat frustated because the EPA estimates says 26 mph. I think the best mph that I have gotten thus far is 24.5 (that was the first tank and it was warmer back in November!).
  • People have me worried now about the reverse lockout solenoid noise. I don't know if I will be able to stand it. So far I have not seen anyone with manual transmission say they have the noise. It is also odd that some people with automatics say they don't have the noise. Shouldn't everyone have the same solenoid? If some solenoids are quieter than others than it should be a relatively simple matter to change out the solenoid for a quieter one. Solenoids are pretty standard components. Should I be considering a 5-speed just to avoid the noise?

    I'd like to know where people found a dealer willing to special order the EX with manual transmission. Normal EX comes with automatic. Here in the Bay Area, CA, dealers hardly want to give you the time of day.

    I am curious which of these options people can get after market. I don't want to pay dealer prices for these:

    floor mats (I assume the new CR-V is different shape than old)
    moon roof visor
    cargo area cover
    cargo liner
    cargo tray

    Do any CR-V owners recommend any of these options?
  • inkyinky Posts: 370
    Sorry to hear about your messed up car order. Someone said you may actually be in some way a competitor to Mark Roberts Honda. Seems like a small mess up. BTW, with those deals what is 30 days either way. As Rocky said, MSRP in Denver. Enjoy and be patient. Dealers really do not know exactly when a car will ship until about 2 weeks before delivery. They can estimate but no way be precise. Esp for a small dealer.
    INKY
    INKY
  • Solenoids might be standard; ears aren't! Test-drive a CR-V to see how much the noise bugs you.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,158
    "Spy photographs published on the Internet reveal a vehicle that looks like a cross between a Subaru Outback, a Honda CR-V and a Porsche 911." (wonder if Varmint has been playing with PhotoShop again?).

    link

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Joethius - You should use the full tank of gas before calculating mpg. Fill it up, drive it until it's (almost) empty, then record how much fuel you use to fill it back up. Then do your calculations.

    Things to keep in mind. 1.) Cold air burns better and forces the engine to use more fuel in the mixture. I generally see a 2-3 mpg drop in my average through the Winter months, though the car does seem a bit more peppy. 2.) Wait until you've broken the engine in. Engines don't run perfectly out of the box. It can take as long as 5,000 miles to properly break in an engine. 3.) Ease of on the gas. Frequent hard acceleration is a sure way to drop you mpg average. Practice driving "smoothly" through the city and around town. Driving at high speeds is another strategy for poor fuel economy.

    Mrbassman - Based on what I've read here and on other forums, the ticking from the reverse lockout is something that most people cannot hear unless they are actively trying to find it. (Of course, once you find it, the sound may bug you constantly.)Most cannot hear the sound with the radio on even at moderate volume. Take a test drive and decide for youself. It does not happen with a manual tranny because the manual does not require the reverse lockout.
  • seguyseguy Posts: 133
    I have an LX auto and hear the solenoid noise only with the radio off and trying to listen for it. It doesn't bother me one bit, especially knowing that it's 'normal'. If I find out otherwise I may have it checked out.

    re: mrbassman-
    the floormats are standard. I'm getting the cargo cover this week from hparts.com so I'll let you know how the looks/operates. They sell original honda accessories near cost. i.e. the dealer wants $199 for the metal look trim, hparts $140. shipping is very low also.

    I also would like to comment on my overfilled transmission. I checked the fluids a day after delivery in my drivway, which is pretty level. But just to be sure, I checked with the car in both directions. Each showed that the tranny fluid was about .5 cm above the hash marks. From my experience with changing tranny fluid on my accord. this is about .5 quarts. So I syphoned the .5 quarts out and now the dipstick reads to the top of the hash marks. I'm pretty anal when it comes to cars and I didn't want the extra fluid to strain the tranny more.
  • We ordered an EX Manual from a dealer in San Luis Obispo. Should be in aprox 7-10 weeks. Might be little far from the Bay Area.

    We had not luck with getting the Price below MSRP, even almost blew the deal when they demanded we get "perma-plate" paint protectant, but told them we would walk away and they called back and agreed to it.

    Anyway, try the Honda dealer in SLO... You can email them for a qoute...
  • For what it's worth:
    At first I didn't think I had the "dreaded solenoid noise". Then someone mentioned you could actually feel it in the shifter if you rested your hand on it while coming to a stop so I tried that at it was in fact there. Now I can actually hear it if I listen for it but it certainly doesn't bother me.
    I consider myself to be pretty anal when it comes to interior noises likes rattles and jingles. They typically drive me nuts until I find them and fix them but in this case I can leave it alone.

    -Rob
  • edxsedxs Posts: 6
    INKY: As I said, I am NOT in car business, and none of our friends or families is. I fully understand that you should be patient ‘cause the Vs are really hot. But Marks Roberts’ problem was that they did not put our order on their March’s list just because our salesman was fired, and the sales manager said that it SHOULD be on April’s, and insisted that they did nothing wrong. He even told me that we were wasting his time although we’ve spent one Saturday with his pre-employee and waited one month for nothing. We NEVER insisted that our car should be in by March, but it SHOULD be on March’s list. Isn’t that fair?

    Anyway, our story has a happy ending, one Tulsa dealer matched their price, and so we are still getting the V without paying MSRP.

    BTW, I saw you posted about Mark Roberts from time to time. I’d like to ask you the same question you just asked me: are you in car bus?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Did you check the tranny fluid with the motor running? Some cars specify that the motor must be running and some require motor to be off. I'm not sure which one is the CR-V
  • tomsrtomsr Posts: 325
    Dealers are making a mistake acting like they have the only show in town.The Toyota Matrix will be out soon with more of everything for less money.The competition is going to get feirce.I drove the CRV
    and liked it but not the shifter location.Looks like a minivan.I
    would rather have a 5 speed or triptronic.I want to have some fun
    while hauling stuff.That's a guy thing though.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Actually, Honda (as a company) is doing better business of any other major manufacturer. Ody sales at MSRP for something like three years have not hurt Honda. MDX sales at MSRP have been non-stop. I don't see how a few months of CR-V sales at MSRP is going to cause a sudden collapse.
  • I read that Honda has excess manufacturing capacity in the U.K. and may shift some of its CRV production there. Has anyone purchased a 2002 CRV that was manufactured in the U.K.? If so, have you noticed any difference in quality as opposed to earlier CRVs manufactured in Japan. On prior posts concerning a thunk in the transmission, I've experienced this in automatic as well as manual transmission autos and believe that it is ordinary drive line wind up when hard acceleration follows sudden braking.
Sign In or Register to comment.