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About the Maintenance and Repair Message Board

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Comments

  • ernesternest Member Posts: 30
    If you lived in Maryland, I believe the number of futile attempts to correct your problem would qualify you for a replacement vehicle. Check with your States consumer agency or the laws that apply. Sounds like a lousy dealer with poor quality control
  • ernesternest Member Posts: 30
    I would check or make sure of the following:
    -Make sure the thermostat is per the manufacturer's specifications - correct degree
    -Get rid of that cap and get a cap per the manufacturer's specs with the same pressure rating.
    -Fill the radiator with coolant right up to the top and install cap.
    -Fill the reservoir to the proper level indicated.

    This should work well if there is nothing wrong with the radiator or engine. If the problem still persists, I would begin to suspect a bad head gasket, which is allowing the coolant to seep into the combustion chamber and consumed. Do you notice any white exhaust smoke by the way?
  • app1nagapp1nag Member Posts: 15
    As a matter of fact on occasion I do notice white exhaust smoke...thanks for the info!
  • C13C13 Member Posts: 390
    That reminds me of a funny story.

    I once had a VW Dasher, I think a '74. I got it for free, which means I paid too much.

    It had a dealer-installed A/C that would spit little drops of water and grains of ice (micro hail) when it was working 'right'. When it was not working right, whenever you turned on the A/C, it would emit a cloud of *DENSE* white smoke out the tail pipe. It was like there was a blizzard or an avalanche behind you. Total whiteout conditions.

    There was nothing on that Giugiaro-designed car worth a dime except for the beautiful little VDO clock smack in the center of the instrument cluster, which kept perfect time.

    Used to call the car 'Schweinhund'.
  • charlesfcharlesf Member Posts: 28
    I see where I placed my question in the wrong conference.
    Here is my problem. I have a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker and the cruise control has stopped working. I have checked the vac. hoses and the wiring but the sucker still does not want to work. Any suggestions on what I can look at next, or what might be causing the problem?
  • charlesfcharlesf Member Posts: 28
    I was hoping their was someone out there who was mechanically inclined and could help me with my cruise control problem. I guess I will have to look elsewhere.
  • drew9drew9 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a Explorer '99 XLT and while washing it I discovered that there was some rust on the chassis 'rails' and 'brackets' (don't know the technical terms) beneath the truck. I bought it about a month ago, it has 800 miles on it, and it was manufactured in Dec '98. Is this normal? Thanks
    for your help.
  • smallteamsmallteam Member Posts: 1
    When I sold Explorers it was not uncommon to find rust spots - especially on white ones. The dealer should be able to repair either at their cost or yours but it shouldn't be much. Do contact them as soon as possible and complain.
  • meengrinchmeengrinch Member Posts: 2
    I own a 86 ford 350 E motorhome W/460 eng. while cruising down the highway with a trailer behind it. I have been getting a backfire coming from the carb. This happens only while I`m cruising at speed does not happen under a load condition. I feel it may have some connection with high vacumm because it seems to happen without much pressure on the gas pedal. I have allready replaced the dist.,plugs,wires,intake gskts.carb gskts egr plate gskts. any help? thanks Jim
  • loamsloams Member Posts: 8
    The analog speedometer on my 92 Camaro RS is now working intermittantly about 10% of the time. I'm not real confident about the "reasons" I've received from gas stations and dealer service advisors. I've been told it could be an electrical problem in the transmission or maybe the entire dashboard gauge cluster needs to be replaced and prices from $200.00 to $800.00 to fix! Does anyone have any thoughts. Thanks
  • netman954netman954 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '95 Pontiac Transport with automatic sliding door. The door stopped working and I discovered that the battery was drained. After recharging the battery, sliding door still did not work. However, I heard a hum and found out that the sliding door motor was running. Tried to slide the door back and forth to see if the motor would shut off, but it didn't. I disconnected the power cable to the sliding door. What could be wrong with it?
  • salmansalman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92' Mazda Navajo (Ford Explorer) I braked hard the other day when a car cut me off and the rear anti-locks engaged. Now the brake light and rear antilock lights on my dash stay lit. Any input why? Also, if I plan to purchase a vehicle in the fall should I repair my "truck" and attempt to sell myself or get what I can from the dealer and let them fix it. The electronic shift into 4 wheel drive is unoperable. I'm told it could cost about $400 and I have some chassis squeaking when I go over bumps etc. ???? HELP ????
  • dbkdbk Member Posts: 2
    Hello! :-)
    I was wondering if anyone has some history/knowledge concerning the fuel filters in Toyota Camry. A new mechanic suggested a change every 15 to 20K miles because of some 'personal experience'. He seems trustworthy and the people where I work don't think a fuel filter is worth a scam (too cheap).

    Anyone know better?

    Thanks
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    114--Sounds like there's a linkage that's not working. Maybe a cable or a rod, or something that the motor is supposed to run that's not being run.

    116--If the fuel filter is for a non-fuel injected car, then yes, replace the fuel filter at 15K. Otherwise, you shouldn't need to do it that often, more like 60K.
  • dbkdbk Member Posts: 2
    thanks gus, much appreciated.

    have narrowed another problem to something called light module (the brake lights no longer work but everything else does).
    how difficult are the 'light modules' for '91 Toyota Camry to find/install??

    better to go with used (like from junkyard) or new (about $300 )?

    thanks again :-)
  • century55century55 Member Posts: 2
    Have a '91 Buick Century 3.3 that has been running rough for the past 30k miles, no better or worse during that time. I've tried about everything. It idles rough, but smoothes out after depressing the gas pedal slightly. Any suggestions?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    You've probably tried fuel injector cleaner, right? How about a long freeway trip to heat it up and clean out the carbon? Air filter? I am not familiar with computerized cars, but wonder if there is simply an idle mixture adjustment, which you might need a mechanic to adjust.
  • ilbcnuilbcnu Member Posts: 1
    Superoils - Fact or Fiction? Does anyone short of AJ Foyt know the long term effects of Prolong...Mobil 1, crazy TV oil ads etc? Do these void any warrantys? I'm just trying to make a new 99 Ford Escort/Contour run as long as possible because I'll be broke after buying one! Also, other than Ford's "A" Plan, do other manufacturers offer similiar plans to their employees? Do manu/Dealer incentives still apply when using "A" plan? Will I get an answer to these
    questions? Am I asking too many? I'm not even sure how to check if I get any answers. Thanks, and Good Luck to all!
  • century55century55 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice guitarzan. Have done the injector cleaner, I-75 blowout drive too! Am not sure about an idle adjustment though. I have a suspicion that it may be something as little as a vacuum leak. Once had a car that had a leak and was able to repair it, but have done a fairly thorough check on this buick.
    When you unscrew the fuel cap (to the tank), it there supposed to be a vacuum sound? There is no vacuum - I put some Handi-wrap around the filler tube and clamped it with an elastic, ran the car and there was neither a vacuum effect or outward pressure effect on the clear plastic wrap.
    Any comments?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Ilbcnu, some of my own common sense here: I use synthetic MOSTLY because it flows freely in Ohio's (you're from there too!) cold temperatures. I know for a fact, from experimenting with previous cars, that cold oil takes a lot of power to get flowing when cold. And before it flows, the engine is DRY. Realistically, no one has proven any viable long term effects in using synthetic over regular oil.

    About your car: The Escort has historically been one of the most reliable cars there is, at least engine-wise. I'm not familiar with the current engine, but might assume the same. I know people who have well over 100k miles on their Escorts, which is GREAT for such a cheap car. Now, will $4/quart oil do you much better than $1/quart oil? Considering money is a big factor for you, I say you might want to change the oil every 3k miles religiously using a good brand name dino oil for $1/quart, or the best price you can find. Put the extra $3/quart in your pocket, so you can buy a BMW or other super car next time :) And always, when you start the car cold, don't touch the gas for a minute at least! NEVER rev it right away when starting!

    Century, I'm not a mechanic, but here is what I suspect: The total vacuum might depend on the size of the (not sure technically what it is called) absorption canister used, which sucks up the gas vapors so they don't explode while your gas is sloshing around in there. If they use a large canister, most of the breathing is done there, and you won't notice vacuum at the input. Totally a guess, and I yield to those who might know for sure! I've observed different cars, some have strong vacuums when releasing the cap, others are not noticeable.

    Vacuum leaks stink. I had a 1980 Delta 88, "experimental environmental stage controls" they should have called that setup. Just try finding the vacuum leak with about 10 different tiny hoses running all around that darn carb :(
  • fungus440fungus440 Member Posts: 21
    I have a 95 Dodge Spirit w/2.5L engine. 97,000 miles, bought it with 85,000 miles. For about the past 5 months, it has this intermittent hesitation. Doesn't happen all the time. Mostly will occur when the speed has changed drastically. Like when you exit a freeway after going 70, come to a stop light, then go. The hesitation is like a sudden gust of wind hits the car head on and momentarily slows it down. If it had a carburetor, I would say the carb is acting like its "loading up."

    I have replaced the fuel filter, dist. cap, rotor, plug wires (plugs looked fine), MAP sensor, checked the oxygen sensor (OK) and used some of Mopar's Combustion Chamber Conditioner. Still there.

    Don't believe it's the tranny because one time when it happened at 40 mph, I punched the pedal and it kicked down like normal.
    Looking for suggestions.
  • sallyinnysallyinny Member Posts: 1
    I have an opportunity to buy a car that has not been used since last Dec. The car is in New Jersey and not on blocks.

    What should I do to insure that it will function when I try to start it up.

    in other words,are there any pre-warm up items to take care of?

    many thanks for your suggestions.
  • bluetessbluetess Member Posts: 1
    We have a 94 soma king cab truck and the radiator has rust in it all the time. we have it flushed and taken off and cleaned about every 6 to 8 months and it keep returning. The dealer can not seem to find the problem. We put the truck back in the shop on this morning. When my husband went to pick it up in the afternoon, they informed him that they would have to wait until GM Motor tech. support contacts them about the problem before they can repair it. We purchased the vehicle new and it have been doing this every since we had it. We don't understand why if the dealer knew that they could not fix the problem why would they wait so long to ask General Motors for help.
  • viswanathaniviswanathani Member Posts: 2
    hi all
    i plan to buy a 91 isuzu amigo.all i wnt from it is a trouble free performance for 3 yrs .
    what are the stuff i should be looking for before buying this vehicle.
    what are the maintenance costs that i would be incurring .how reliable is the vehicle
    it has done 90 k,stick shift,2 wd.

    vish
  • shawn1shawn1 Member Posts: 1
    Gus, since you work with Toyota's got a question about the wind noise on Avalons. I've just bought a 96. The noise at 60+ is terrible can't hear the radio. I see there is a TSB #BO010-97. Can't find anywhere to get the actual discription of what to do. What's the fix?
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    I've worked on exactly one Avalon. I work at an independent shop, and we don't see many of them. I guess a lot of them are still under warranty.

    You might try taking your Avalon to the dealer. Mention the TSB, and ask if they'll fix it under warranty.

    Good luck.
  • sbspencesbspence Member Posts: 16
    I just purchased an '88 Turbo 2.3l T-bird that has only 47k mi on it. It's obviously done a lot of sitting in it's life, and when I took it out started putting a lot of miles on it in a hurry(100+ in first two days) I noticed the oil gauge slowly dropping down toward the red area when cruising at a steady 60mph @2k rpm with air on. I turned off air and downshifted back to 4th which brought up the r's to @2500, and initially that seemed to bring it back up to around halfway on the gauge. The next morning when I started the car it just hovered around the red area again, but this time I can't get it to come up! I had the oil checked it's full and has less than 500mi on it, the engine and turbo are extremely quiet not acting at all like their oil starved. Any ideas? Oh, and any opinions on this being a reliable daily driver for me, with all the techno gadgets this car has, and all the sitting it's done over the last 11yrs?
  • wahawwahaw Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to determine if a TSB was ever issued for "leaky" (or other) problems with the 1995 Ford Explorer XLT's power steering system. The NHTSA only listed "Steering: Gear box" as a choice and showed one. If anyone knows of others with problems in this area I would appreciate there comments. Thanx
  • zhizhi Member Posts: 3
    my 99 corolla right front nozzle is leaking water onto the surface of the hood
    after i stop the engine or parking my car under the sun. having been back to
    the dealer three times, first time they said no problem, second time they
    changed the nozzle, third time they maded a hole on the lip of the washing
    fluid reservoir, but the problem still there, who has any idea why it is happening.
    thank advance
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    zhi, your problem sounds puzzling and frustrating. Hopefully, someone on the Town Hall will be able to help you solve it. I only ask that you try to post your question in the appropriate topic. This is a good topic to post your question in. I noticed however, that you also posted in every topic that has "Corolla" in its title, including the timing belt topic and the steering wheel topic. These are not appropriate topics for your question, since your question involves neither timing belts nor steering wheels.

    Thanks
    Gus, Conference Host
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Sbspence, I am a novice that will take some guesses: The first time, you brought the revs up and the pressure was boosted. That would lead me to believe the oil pump was going bad, either the gear was slipping, or the impeller (or whatever the internal mechanism is called) is leaking and not moving the volume it should.

    Next, you claim that doing the same procedure the next day did not bring the pressure up. Hearing this I'm thinking that it is not a pump problem, but electrical in nature. Is your gauge electrical? I think it may not be working. Or, finally, that there is a plugged up oil vein in the engine causing this random problem. Are you the same guy who said that the owner religiously changed the oil on that car? If that is true, I doubt there would be any gunk in that engine. If the oil gauge is electrical, I'm not sure, but think a mechanic may be able to verify if it is working by checking it with a voltmeter. Let us know.

    I'm not condescending, but you are looking at the oil gauge and not the temp, right? Ford has a bad history of bad thermostats, FYI. Click and Clack have a funny but true take on Fords and thermostats: http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/CC/CC7516TXT.html#1
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Wahaw, I saw several TSB's relating to steering linkages and vibrations resulting, but nothing with the pump/leaks.

    Gus, check out what I saw there: MUFFLER OUTLET ASSEMBLY MAY HAVE THE SAME RESONANT FREQUENCY AS THE SPARK PLUG FIRING FREQUENCY

    I'd like to get you on video explaining THAT to one of your customers, and get a closeup of their resulting face, hehehehe!

    Zhi, does the dealer think the problem is heat related? Is there a steady stream when this happens? And, did they check out the PUMP and the electronics?
  • doodlebug2doodlebug2 Member Posts: 2
    I just got my brand new beetle back from getting a brand new transmission and now have noticed the signal light (both right and left) stop blinking at random times. Sometimes they signal without stopping and sometimes stop after the third blink. Anyone out there have any idea what's going on? It took 2 and a half weeks to get the new transmission. I am I in for another ordeal with this new problem?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Sounds like they may have left a wire loose. If they are competent, they should remember what wiring was touched, and find it without a hassle.

    New Beetle needs tranny? Dead on arrival? Is there a backorder of parts also, I take it?
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    Seems unlikely that it would be directly related to trans. stuff. Sounds more like a defective turn signal switch or flasher relay.

    I'd like to get you on video explaining THAT to one of your customers, and get a closeup of their
    resulting face, hehehehe!


    Have you ever seen the way a dog cocks its head at you when it's confused? That would be what the customers would do after anybody tried to explain that one.
  • wahawwahaw Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply on the 1995 Explorer XLT power steering leak question. Having it repaired today at a cost of about $500 (ouch)!
    Thanx again. Wahaw
  • rick62rick62 Member Posts: 1
    Gus,

    I have a 1991 Dodge Caravan. The brakes are giving me a fit. The idiot light comes on and the pedal is real spongy. The Chiltons says to bleed em and it give detailed instructions on how to do this. I follow the procedure and when I start the vehicle, the light is off and the pedal is normal. A couple of pumps and the light comes on and fluid seeps from around both resevior caps and the pedal again gets spongy. The Chilton's goes on to say that a spongy pedal is caused either by air in the line or a leak. The only leak I get is the fluid that seeps from around the res caps after I bleed the lines. Maybe I need to bleed em again be cause there may be an air bubble. I did this until I was sure that there was no air in the lines, in fact I did not see any bubbles come out. What do you recommend?

    Thanks ,

    Rick
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    Brake hydraulics are a tricky thing. Bleeding them can be difficult and frustrating, and that's even when you don't have a leak or a faulty component. If you don't do it right, the end result can lead you into danger. If you're trying to save money by doing it yourself, you may want to reconsider, and have a shop or dealer take care of it for you.
  • mongusmongus Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1990 Accord with 125k miles on it. The car has been religiously maintianed by the original owner and now me. The car has developed a vibration that starts after the car has warmed up (fan comes on). The vibration starts around 1500 rpm's and continues to 2000 rpm's then goes away. It does this in all gears. Dealership said at first it was EGR because when u disconnect the vac hose the vibe goes away. I replaced EGR myself and the problem is still there. Again remove hose and it goes away. Checked rest of EGR system (EGR solenoid and CVC valve) with vacuum gage and got 6.5 in of Hg instead of the 8in Chilton's calls for out of the EGR solenoid so replaced this with one from the bone yard off a good car. Problem persisted. Took car back to dealership and paid them $50 to tell me the plugs I put in were wrong. Took out the Bosch platinums put back in new NGK's, problem persists. Checked the vacuum operated motor mount solenoid (tho this seems to be only for when engine is at idle) and it checked out. Just finished complete maint cycle with new fuel filter, cap and rotor, air filter. Needless to say I am stumped and so are they! Please help me fix this very annoying problem!!
  • ehauptehaupt Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1999 Honda Odyssey (love it!) but have a couple of questions. Is it worth it to pay $200 for fabric protection (or do they just empty a can of scotch guard) and $200 to protect the paint (it already has clear coat but the dealer says if I get this done I won't have to wax it for five years)? Are these just ways for the dealer to make more $$$ or worthwhile ways to protect a very valuable investment?
  • mongusmongus Member Posts: 6
    Sorry to say but this is pretty much a way to get money out of people. All of the car buying guides I have seen (getting ready to buy 99 Accord coupe) agree that you should not pay for this. I'm sure the scotch guard they use may be a little different but the cans u can buy are just as good. I have even seen this on leather interiors and asked the salesman why they were still charging for it. His response "Oh, well it's still on the carpets." Really? So why are you charging the same price as the cloth interior over there. As far as the paint sealant goes there is no way I would go 5 years without wax. I can't see how this is going to protect from the sun and oxidation not to mention sap, birds, acid rain and all the other stuff that will eat right through it after a while. They have little to lose by telling you this since the warranty will be long gone by 5 years.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Rick62, you didn't put the calipers on the wrong sides, did you? The bleeder valve should be on the TOP of the unit...?

    Ehaupt, I pay a detailer $120 for a very nice detail job. And he uses a soft wax, not the hard kind dealers use, which immediately scratches your paint. Don't do it.

    Mongus, could you have gotten a bad EGR replacement? You did buy a genuine Honda part right?
  • mongusmongus Member Posts: 6
    Yes it was a Honda EGR and I pulled that one and replaced it with another new EGR from Honda to be sure.
  • holly1014holly1014 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '91 Toyota Corolla sedan. We have been having problems starting it. Today, it wouldn't start at all. It just clicks. I tried jumping it, but it wouldn't work. Previously when it wouldn't start, we would jiggle the wires and battery cable, and it would start. This time it wouldn't. Anyone have any idea what might be wrong?
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    Sounds like your starter.
  • ddswddsw Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone help me with my 1997 VW Passat 5 speed? I bought it new and within several months it developed an intermittent hesitation. Sometimes it lurches up to 5 or 6 times in sequence, then drives fine. Othertimes I notice a fairly suble loss of power when driving at high speeds. It occurs usually, but not always, fairly soon after I start out- within the first 30 miles. It can go for months without any noticable problems. The dealer has replaced the mass air flow sensor, done something about an emission control fault, not to mention replace the dashboard panel when all the gauges stopped working for a while, replaced the transmission and a wheel bearing (unrealted problem). Now they have decided it is an electrical fault, but since it won't show up on the computer they say there is nothing more they can do at this point. An independent mechanic suggested the relay pump, but the dealer says that would show up on the computer. Because the car does not have an original odometer, the wholesalers I talked to when I considered getting rid of it, say it loses about $2000 in value. Is this true? VW says they can not legally replace the odometer with one with correct milleage. I think I'm going to get the independent guy to look at it, even though the dealer is still looking at it for free. (But not curing it) Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is causing my hesitation problem? I want to keep the car, but don't want to be killed on the interstate. I am grateful to any suggestions. Thanks!
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Sorry Mongus, it sounds like there is something obvious wrong, that a good mechanic should be able to diagnose hands-on.

    Holly, is the battery terminal clean? If it is corroded, you could need a new cable or simply to thoroughly clean the connections. Baking soda will neutralize acid, and is good for scrubbing the terminals with. Ask your dealer about proper procedures before disconnecting the cable on your car if that is necessary. Does the cable looked burned anywhere? Let us know how bad the damage is.

    Ddsw, have you noticed any special conditions under which this happens? If it goes a long time without the problem, there must be some significant condition that contributes. Perhaps hot weather? Have they checked the fuel injectors for leaks? How about a pressure test of the cooling system (check for coolant mixing with gas.)

    guitarzan
    Community Leader/Vans Conference
  • ddswddsw Member Posts: 2
    guitarzan-
    Thanks for the suggestions- will discuss them with the independent VW guy. The dealer basically won't spend money to look for anything not obvious- not showing up on the computer, since they haven't been charging me. Since I'll lose so much money of I give up and sell it, have decided to invest some to see if it can be fixed. The weather makes no difference. Only key is that the bad jerking occurs fairly soon- within 5-10 minutes- after starting out after it's been parked for several hours.
  • vramnathvramnath Member Posts: 1
    The fan belt in my '91 Honda Accord was worn and had started sliding out slightly. When I was having it replaced, my mechanic told me that the power steering pump had gone bad and that's why the belt was sliding out. Has anyone encountered a simliar problem and was the mechanic putting me on?
  • mongusmongus Member Posts: 6
    guitarzan: After third trip to dealer it now appears that it is the EGR ports. There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) which addresses the exact symptoms I am experiencing. Wish they had looked at the TSB's on the first trip! Lesson to all of you, have them look (or look yourself) at TSB's, especially if there is no SES light or engine codes. They did not charge me this third trip thankfully and the mechanic was nice enough to make me a copy of the TSB so I can do the work myself and save the $200 for labor. It involves popping out the brass freeze plugs on the EGR ports and cleaning them. The repair calls for a slide hammer and plug removal kit but think I can wing it without the special Honda kit.

    vramnath: Have you noticed any problems with your power steering? What exactly do you mean by "sliding out"? Is it slipping? Is there any kind of fluid leaking around the pump?
This discussion has been closed.