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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Stalling Problem

otis79otis79 Posts: 1
Something wrong happened with my truck. Engine starts without a problem but right after I change a gear to D, 1 or 2 engine stops suddenly. Thought it couls be transmission but I'm not an expert. Any ideas what would it be.
GMC Sierra 1500 '94

(there is a proper level of transmission fluid)
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Comments

  • tjm5tjm5 Posts: 4
    I purchased a 2001 8.1 2500HD Silverado (used from dealer) about a year ago it ran great until recently. I am now experiencing stalling problems when warmed up approx. between 140*f to 160f*, when it stalls its not constant, its happens when highway driving or standing in line (low or fast idle)when it does stall radio and other electrical items still work, idiot battery light flickers slowly and will not restart until light stops flickering, restarting is real stubborn it usually takes approx. 5 min. to restart and so far seems to run great again, typically at full warm up (between 160*f to 180*f). I did take it back to the dealer (warranty) they see no problem/s. Its driving me nuts any help.
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Torque converter control solenoid.
    What happens is that the solenoid continues to engage the torque converter clutch, so when you go from neutral to any drive or reverse gear, it is just like having the clutch released on a manual transmission.
  • This happen to my truck. I have the same engine but mine is a 2002. It was the crank position sensor. Its behind the engine on the driver side and a little about the bell housing. I guess this sensor is common to go out for this engine.

    Hope that helps
  • jchase1jchase1 Posts: 1
    Hello my 96 gmc 5.7l will start and idle fine but when i try to get up to speed it will bog and/or die. now i was told it was probably the catalytic converters so i cut them out and still have the same problem any ideas?
  • I have been having this same problem for 4 years. It has been worse the last couple of weeks. My battery light comes on but does not flicker. Usually I stop & place in park & it starts back up. But lately it may take hours. I am having crank switch replaced today but they really don't know if this is the cause. Did it work for you!
  • hey my 03 silverado 5.3 v8 gas has a very rough idle, and stalls at low manuver speeds like turning at low speed or backing up. the tach read 0 yes zero and below, llights are dim and driving my tach reads normal untill i slow down the the problem reoccurs. at idle the voltage goes from 12 to 14 just bouncing around , i tryed the the MAF sensor cleaning and it helped somewhat i have already changed air filter, plugs and plug wires,new Optima battery, and had a professonial injector cleaning preformed along with new high flow cat's installed that alone was about $1,000 and now my pockets are tight for repair bills. if anyone has any suggestions shoot me an e-mail xtremes10zaol.com
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Did you clean the throttle body and linkages? That may be your problem.
  • I have a 2000 silverado 4x4 with a 5.3 and an automatic tran. It started shuttering when I was stopped and in gear (ie red light) intermittently, when I put it into nuetral its stops. I changed the fuel filter, plugs and wires, I checked for arcing. Still does it. Now this week it has stalled twice on me while driving. There isnt a sevice engine light coming on and I used my buddies code reader... nothing. Any suggestions? I would like to save money and not have to bring it service center and have them trouble shoot it for $$$$$
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Have you checked/cleaned your Idle Air Controller? That may be your problem if it is dirty and not been serviced. Some say it should be replaced and not cleaned due to the electronics inside. I just cover the electronics and spray it with throttle body cleaner.
  • I have a 1987 Silverado 350 V8 and it stalls whenever you put it in reverse but it only does this after it warms up when driving it cuts out ecspecially at high RPMs and i lose the power to my radio but it turns right back on and my headlights occasionally flicker

    COME ON HELP ME OUT HERE
  • Sounds alot like a bad ground and/or battery connection problem. THe stalling in reverse could be caused by the movement of the engine in the opposite direction due to the reverse torque combined with a loose ground cable on the engine. Hope this helps.
  • Does anyone know what the problem is when the truck stalls at idle, slow speeds or turning. I have heard that new and old trucks have this problem. It doesn't do it all the time. :cry:
  • You didn't specify year, I assuming 2000 or newer. You might have a bad IAC valve. (idle air control valve) The PCM retracts the pintle in the valve constantly to maintain desired rpm idle, and rpm at low speeds. Its a 4 wire valve bolted on to the throttle body. If its a mechanical problem with the spring or pintle in the valve, it will not set a code for the IAC. If you decide to replace it. Your PCM will have to go through the relearn. Another words, it may take up to 5 miles of driving or 15 minuts for the idle to stop fluctuating. Good luck
  • My 2002 with the 8.1 had a similar problem for a year for which the dealer or various independent repair facilities couldn't find a solution. Truck would die at idle, city driving or at 80 mph. Never threw a service engine light or a code and would readily re start. 2 weeks ago it quit at 30 mph, wouldn't restart and SES lit up. Code indicated crank positioning sensor. Had it replaced and so far so good. If yours behaves as mine did it could be a while before you get a traceable code.
  • dan125dan125 Posts: 1
    I own a 1998 GM Sierra 5.7L 2wd automatic. My truck intermittently stalls while idiling, city speeds and at highway speeds. The idle stall has started in the colder months ( I live in Canada). I can start the engine right away and it runs perfectly until the next time it stalls. Immediately after the stall my transmission will shift hard going from second to third gear. I have had this checked out by the dealer ship (GM Goodwrench) and it is a faulty Pressure regulating valve (PRV)in the transmission that is faulting. However when I turn the engine off for thirty seconds than start it, the hard shift disappeears but the code remains. The dealership has replace the valve three times and have no idea what is causing the stall. The relevant service history is as follows. Aprill 2007, brought truck in for service and inspection, dealership repaired/replaced the folowing relevant items 1)transmission oil and filter change and flush 2) replace fuel filter 3) changed oil and filter 4)replaced spark plugs, 5)performed semi annual inspection 6)replaced lower intake gasket 7) replaced water pump 8)coolant system change and flush. April 2007, Stalling ocurrred at highway speeds (first time), diagnosis was faulty PRV and repaired. Stalling contiuned intermittently after replacement. August 2007, Brought truck into dealership and they figured it was a weak fuel pump and was replaced, September 2007 stalling of engine continued. NOV. 2007 dealership replaced ignition harness, and stalling continued. Dec. 2007 I replaced the battery and did a thourough cleaning of the battery terminals. Stalling continues and now more often when idling, warm or cold. During idling the engine sputters and surges before it stalls. The dealer ship figures that the stalling and the PRV are two seperate issues. The only code that comes up is the faulty PRV. My local goodwrench service dealer has no idea what may be causing the problem and I am tired of paying them not to fix the problem. Can you give me any ideas of what may be at fault. I realize that there could be many components at fault but would like to know where to start troubleshooting. Sorry for the long rant, more info better than none.
  • First I would like to commend you on the amount of information you have given about your vehicle. Some of these post don't even include engine size.

    I have run into this before on a few customers vehicles. Same issue, been to the dealer, numerous things replaced. On that vehicle it was a faulty alternator. Yes, it was charging fine, but the AC voltage was leaking through the regulator and confusing the PCM. Most technicians don't have the test equipment for this test.

    However, with your problem I would suspect faulty grounds to the transmission and or PCM first. Add some extra ground straps to the chassi, transmission ect. Next, if that doesn't work, disconnect your battery. On the back of the alternator, disconnect the B+, thats the fat 8 gauge cable leading eventually to your battery. Wrap the end of the cable with tape to prevent a short. Unplug the plug on the back of the alternator also. Reconnect the battery and run the engine and see if the problem goes away. Of course the check engine light will come on about the alternator being disconnected. It won't be charging so you cant run it more than 10-15 minutes, but its only a test. If this fails, reconnect everything. Borrow a scan tool from auto zone, and drive around with it plugged into your DLC port. If the problem goes away now, there is a grounding problem with the PCM itself. If this is the case, it is very difficult to trouble shoot. Let me know how it works out. Good luck.
  • tjm5tjm5 Posts: 4
    2001 Silverado Vehicle update: After running into another owner with the same truck and a year later (model) and the same symptom we both went to the same dealer explaining problem. The dealer felt they had to diagnose the problem because we weren’t both nuts, it must be a real issue to these trucks (daaa). It turns out it was a faulty Crank Shaft Positioning Censer after changing both trucks ran like new, extra power, better fuel mileage, etc.. Apparently this censer has magnets that detects crank position, went this censer goes bad it sends erroneous information to vehicle’s computer showing numerous faulty readings about other areas of concern not associated to problem at hand making it hard to dianose.
  • I have a 93 Silverado 1500 5.7L. My problem is that the engine wants to surge at low rpm's. It idles fine and runs fine after you get it going. I have already replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, rotor button, pcv valve, and fuel filter. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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