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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems

24

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  • I had a 94 Ranger, starting missing bad,went to AutoZone,I put on a new
    Mas Airflow Sensor.Runs great now,NO miss!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, on Cad Northstar, this symptom many times means the Crank Position Sensor is bad.
  • I have a 94 ranger xlt 2.3 and when i get up and start it cold it starts up fine but as soon as i drive it and if i stall the vehicle will not start it takes about 2-3 min before starting it will go but not turnover after getting it to start then none of my signals work or my hazard light work. Then later on the signals will work. Any ideals as why it doesnt start right up after stall and why my signaland hazard lights stop working temporarly.
  • I have a 99 Ranger that stalls when hot. Hault says that a inexpensive part near the distributor is the culprit. The problem is My car does not have a distributor. Can someone help? Pulidore
  • i have a 94 ranger 3.0 has 160xxx miles. ive owned it since 97 with only 40xxx miles. never had any trouble out of it. but last month i was driving home and i stopped to wait to turn and it died on me and wouldnt start back. the next mourning i went out and started right up, so i took it down the road and back and when i got home i shut it off and it wouldnt start back unless i let it sit for bout 5 hours, after that happend ive replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, coil, cap, and rotor button, mas, its getting spark and its getting fuel, ive checked all fusses and relays under the hood and under dash. what else can i do
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Fuel pump relay goes bad, making intermittent contact. Switch the relays around, they are the same, or buy a new one for the fuel pump. These relays are a know problem on Rangers.

    Fuel pump itself is going bad and dropping fuel pressure.

    There is a 'rollover' fuel cutoff sensor which may be going bad. Its under the edge of the carpet on the right side (passenger) of the 'tunnel'. It's also got a reset button on top of it. Check connections here.

    There is a crank position sensor. If it goes bad, the truck stops dead. This is a problem on certain years of Cadillacs - when it fails, it fails so fast the car will not set error code, but it will crank and run later.

    Just a few wild guesses......
  • I am so sorry to hear that everyone has such problems with thier Rangers.I own a 97 ranger which i bought used in 98.It currently has 268358 miles on it and running just fine.I have studied auto mechanics since i was about 7 i do all my own repair work and have since we bought the truck.I haven't had to do anything major to it since i've owned it,basic maintence,oil change,plugs and wires,belts and hoses and only once right after it hit 100000 miles i had to replace the timing belt.All in all i really love my truck.
  • i have a 1993 ranger and a 2006 i have had no trouble out of my 1993 outside of basic maintenance and i have owned it for 8 years :) on the other hand my 2006 i have had for 6 months and my engine stalled :mad: on me the other day on the way to work going about 50 mph it wouldent start i had to get it towed home and let it set for a few days and it started no problem im going to replace the fuel pump relay and i will keep everyone updated if this solves the problem
  • Hi fellow rangers, :)

    [ 1986 Ford Ranger/2.3L gas/5 speed OD/128,745 Miles/ California ]

    Ok, This is my "unlucky every other year" SMOG TEST ONLY where I diligently replace my air filter,spark plugs, cap and rotor, (fuel cap, if needed).

    The night before doing these changes, I drove to the auto wash stall where I waited for my engine to cool down before spraying Gunk Engine Brite, to clean, to make my work a little more enjoyable, and yes, I did cover the distributor coil, distributor cap, and any other components I did not want to get wet. I was very careful not to use extreme pressure around the aluminum, bendable manifold tubing, which could easily break and water would get down into the engine. I've done the same thing every other year since this SMOG TEST ONLY came into effect without any problems before. (California)

    The day after, I took a drive to the store about a mile away and noticed an extreme stalling where I had to keep gas revved up so it wouldn't stall. I could come to a light signal, and without the gas to the pedal, it would just die. I was really afraid I’d get stuck there.

    I don't remember doing anything out of the ordinary this time, except TWO THINGS, (1) the plugs I bought were Autolite Platinum (AP5145) and were supposed to be pre-gapped to .44, and I checked only one, which was fine. and (2) A few days earlier I bought a 12oz. can of OCTANE BOOST gas additive I added to half a gas tank. I know it's bad to use these additives ,but on occasion, I usually go with a fuel injector additive. I am the original owner of this truck, and have been told it's only worth $500.00, so what can I lose, but thinking about it now, these 4-banger trucks don't do good with the higher octane, that's why the REGULAR gas is better than the PREMIUM, Ummmmm....could this be one of the problems? Maybe I should filler up right away to "water down" that octane booster...don't know what the heck I was thinking????? :eyes:
    A few years ago, I did replace my fuel relay switch, and maybe a fuel sensor, but believe me, this truck was running much better before I did all this replacement of the Cap, Rotor, and plugs. The (expensive) spark plug wires I bought two years ago and they looked fine inside each plug wire.

    So for the life of me, I don't know where to look, because this could turn out to be a costly and timely process of elimination. Any ideas?

    So I guess I should always check my spark gap, regardless of what I buy. How long should the Fuel sensor or relay last? I will go check my vacuum lines and firing order on the dist. cap.

    Sorry about the winded reply, I'll post back after I do these tasks. Do you think I have to remove the plugs again and recheck the gaps? Thanks again!

    I called the auto parts store and they told me those plugs and Cap/Rotor are the correct application..BUT he told me to pull the plugs and check to see if the tips are either real black or white, fouled out because of the concentrated octane booster in a half of tank of gas.
    ALSO, Instead of autolite (AP5145) Platinum plugs, I should have gone with Motorcraft, not autolite.

    Any would be much appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day! :thumb:

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    bozo4ford
    Post subject: Re: 1986 Ranger 2.3L Pre smog test R&R Plugs, now stalling out??
    PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:48 pm
    Online
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    Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 12:25 am
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    Truck: 1986 Ford Ranger
    Update Monday FEB. 8th, 1:00PM PST -

    I pulled each of the autolite plugs and did not notice any white or black carbon, checked the gap,1,2,and 4th plug was gapped to .44, but the #3 plug was more than .44. A few years back I also replaced my distributor module with a FORD part.

    I looked at the dist. coil plug wire and noticed some green oxidation on the coil tip, got some sandpaper, rolled it up, and stuck it inside the coil plug to clean the terminal inside, blew it out with air...that was a few days ago, and now it was more oxidation, could that mean I should try to replace just the Dist coil plug wire? I certainly don't want to buy all new plug wires.

    There is a module that is on a metal slider between the air filter assembly and the truck body with a Black base with a white top connector w/4 wires ( 2 red,1 yellow,and one black) coming from a harness,and into that connector,(Part Number #E98b-2C013...I think) which the wires going into this piece looks pretty corrosive,and the locking connector with the (I think) fuel relay looks fine. is there anyway to get just the harness side, clip the 4 wires and replace this assembly piece" I took a picture,but no way to post the pic here.

    In the same area, between the air filter assembly and the side of the truck next to a rectangular part # E7EF9F479-A2A, which I think is the Sensor Assembly for the manifold Absolute pressure module) is another one of these boxes with a Blue-ish green base and a black top with 1Black,3 yellow, and 1 red wire. There are no numbers on this.

    So I'm tooling around looking for what might be a problem causing all this stalling and rough idling....I'll check in periodically. Thanks!
  • Hiya –
    Sunday 2- 14-2010

    The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
    towers is what I have now.

    TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
    TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
    BOTTOM RIGHT #1
    BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

    It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
    I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.

    My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.

    I’m going to get a gas can and go get some fresh gas to add.
    I thought this truck had two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine
    Compartment. I called pep Boys and Kragen and both told me there is only one, in the Rail, but maybe I will need to go to a mechanic,because the Chilton book sounds involved for just the lay person.

    1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L
    EFI
    4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
    Mileage – 151,4672
  • I'm glad it passed CA SMOG!!!!

    I'm still getting the stalling after about 35-40 seconds after I start the truck. I started up the truck,ran over and disconnected the electrical solenoid of the iacv and sure enough the truck died instantly.
    Hopefully, the EGR is fine since it passed Smog, meaning it would not have not passed smog if something was wrong with it, but does the EGR have anything to do with the stalling out after a short time?
    Thankfully, it kept running yesterday long enough for the smog tech to do his job, but now I'm back to this stalling again.

    That code reading machine to check codes, would I understand the codes,and will the codes still show up on this 24 year old truck?

    For now, that $30.00 for that machine could go towards a new iacv if that would be the next suspect in this process of elimination. Still not sure,and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic if he's going to charge me $100.00 to test it,then the part and labor to put it in, which I can do myself.

    IACV varies in costs, and not sure if I should stay with the FORD Part >

    FORD DEALER - $103.04,
    THE BOYS OF PEP - $109.00, (Can't believe they're a little bit higher than FORD)
    & AUTOZONE - $60.00

    So if it isn't the PCV, EGR, or TFI Module, this stalling has everything to do with my 24 year old iacv? (or idle air bypass)
  • Ok. Since the smog passed, it’s doubtful the timing was bad or incorrect. My problem with the rough idling is still with me.

    I have been told it could be a PVC, EGR, or a vacuum hose. I did remove the IACV (air bypass) cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it and it did run better than before, but little better, so maybe that has to be replaced after 24 years, maybe not.

    When I start the truck in the morning, it has a hard time keeping an idle unless I press down on the gas, then after about ten minutes, it seems to idle a little better, and when I run it on the freeway, it runs like nobody's "bidniz".

    I've been to Autozone and Pep boys looked at their Haynes repair books on the location of that PVC valve, but no one knows where it is on my truck. is it on the drivers side, all the way back behind the throttle body, close to the engine wall/windshield, below the vacuum tree somewhere?

    1986 Ranger / 140 CID/ 2.3 EFI gas/ 4 Cyl. 5-speed / 151,473 Miles
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps.
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    If this works you will have saved alot of $ & trouble. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • mustang6518mustang6518 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    i have a 93 ford ranger 2.3 with a 5 speed manaul trany it doen't seem to have any power i know it's a little 4 cylinder but still it should pull hills more better the check engine lights was coming on and staying on after a few miles i hooked it up to a computer and could not find any stored codes all i found was that the 02 senors said it was runnig rich after that the check engine light started going off and on and then stoped coming on completly but no change in performance the check engine light has recently started coming back on i have also noticed that it sounds like the feul pump goes off and on wile it is parked and swiched off any idears
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    (www.carcomplaints.com)
  • i had the same problem out of my 94 ranger. i replaced the fuel filter, and the fuel pump, and know it works great, runs like a top.
  • i own an 05 ranger edge 5 speed 165,000+ highway miles since new,had it cutout on inerstate at speed,reset fuel inertia, started up,on my way, randomly would do it again at idle usually, no sensors,relays,fuelpump or switches have been changed. i keep regular maintinance, oil, plugs, fuel filter.recently changed plug wires,cleaned iac with tooth brush&carb cleaner, i use a k&n air filter and DO NOT OVER OIL IT,after about 5-10 min of idling it get rough and start missing causing the enginelight to blink, if i would tap the throttle it would clean up and light would go out,seems new plugs&wires corrected that,however the stalling& cuttingout is getting worse,twice last week,and twice yesterday once was at a stoplight& secound just idling after a few mins,would not fire off till i reset inertia switch,sometimes it will be alittle hard to start takes an extra secound when temps are below 40. please help income is low and my payoff is in aug this yr. i luv the truck and want to keep it for a longtime.i owned an 85 for 12yrs put well over 300,000 on it with slight coil issues in hot fl weather but ran ford tough.

    thanks for any help , rcmax
  • I have a ranger with the 2.3L 8 plug, I have seen that many people with the same engine is having a stalling problem and so am I. I have change all the sensors except the pcm or the computer.
    It runs great on the fwy or once you get going. its when you take off it wants to stall and you have to give it gas so that it wont turn off, at the same time when this happens i can see a small amount of black smoke and i give it gas so that it wont turn off, any hints or any successful repair that will take care of this problem
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    Been having some problems with rough idle and stalling while sitting still. Hasn't been running clean and smooth for quite a while and I couldn't find a problem.
    A couple weeks ago just by chance I checked The "Mass Air Flow Sensor". That was it !! Problem solved now it's running like new again.

    The mass Air Flow Sensor is located at the out end of your air filter cover. The thing is held in by two torques screws. Simply remove the two screws and remove it. It's a silver and black plastic box with a plug on the end of it. It's function is to sense the amount of air passing through it and send the information to the "Brain Box" which programs the fuel injection system with the right amount of air. Because it is on the clean air side of the air filter it can collect fibers from the filter itself, it also collects dust particles and pollen. When it is plugged up the brain box sends the wrong information to the fuel injectors resulting in a poor running truck. Here is a couple of hints to help you. Don't try to unplug the wire till you remove the unit. PUSH down on the plug release (don't pull) to remove the wires plugged into it. Here's the big one.....Use the right cleaner, buy a can of Mass Air Flow Injector cleaner and read the instructions on the can. It costs about $8 a can at O Reileys or Auto Zone. Let the sensor dry compleatly before you re-install it. After the first start the truck might throw a code (engine lite) If it does, no problem. Remove the negative wire from the battery, wait about 15 minuets then hook it back up. Re-set your clock start the truck and you're finished. Mass Air Flow Sensors should be cleaned everytime you change your air filter. It takes about 10 minuets total time and it's worth the effort. On the can of cleaner they claim 4-10 more horsepower at the wheels with a clean MAFsensor compared to a dirty one. Expect a smoother cleaner running engine also. 4-10 more horses also translates into fuel savings. This is a little job worth doing on any fuel injected vehicle not just the Rangers.

    PS: My Ranger is a 2004 Edge with the small V-6. Yours may be slightly different. The MAF Sensor will be the first sensor in line on the out flow of your air breather box.
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    I should share a couple more things about the Mass Air Flow Sensor. First, On the metal side, the silver side, there are four small holes in the metal at different locations. Make sure you blow the cleaner thru the holes to make sure they are clean. Inspect the sensor an make sure you have cleaned all the inside vents and holes, there are inlets in front and both sides. Clean the inside of the plug also. Don't forget to clean the plug under the hood that plugs into the sensor. Put a rag under it while you spray to catch the overflow. That stuff will ignite on a hot engine.

    Lastly check your exhaust pipe. Mine had a lot of soot built up on the tip of the pipe both inside and out, an obvious indication of an engine that is running rich ( to much ) fuel and and air mixture. Clean it up with a old rag and watch it for awhile The inside of the pipe should not be full of black built up soot, It should be kind of clean with a grey color inside.
  • hrehahreha Posts: 1
    try starting it and wiggeling the harness next to the under hood fuse block mine had rubbed against the bracket for the fuse block and had cut the power wire for the relay in to. it fixed my prob and no more swapping relays.
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    See my post re: mass air flow sensor. Sounds like what mine was doing. It never quit but It was running really rich making it run poor and die at stoplights and idled poor all the time. Eazy to fix, actually just clean it. Easy Easy Easy.
  • I have a 87 ranger with v6 fuel injection .It runs grear for awhile then seems to overfuel on at least 2 clys.or miss really bad If i keep pushing the gas it will keep running but if not it may quit. It will start right back up but do the same thing again ,I have changed what i thought may be the ptoblem so need some more advice from you all Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Bad (leaking) injectors?
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