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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems

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  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Thats a new one, never heard that before. I've heard that people that use the after market oilable filters may kill the MAS because oil from the filter will coat it. But never heard of a filter so bad that it killed one.

    Better possibility is that messing with the filter left a connection open between the air filter and the MAS, letting air and dust in.

    And, I did not know a bad MAS would suddenly totally kill a motor. I can see making it run badly, and giving bad milage, but kill a motor? Maybe a bad MAS where the little wire/s inside totally broke would shut a car down. This would be a defective MAS, not a filter problem coating the wire with dust.

    The symptoms you describe sound more like a Crank Position Sensor failure. These will kill a car instantly. And if it is an intermident failure, the car will restart, until the failure becomes complete.

    Overall, sounds like it could be a BS from a service writer. Look at your receipt, see if they charged for a MAS or Crank Sensor. I do hope that whatever they did keeps you up and running.
  • anginohioanginohio Posts: 2
    they replaced the MAS and I have the old one that was taken out and they replaced the air filter which I also have. The air filter does not look like its in bad shape either. I took it to the dealer where I bought the car and that is what was done. So far so good.
  • rfelixrfelix Posts: 1
    I've had my Ranger for over two years now, and have not had a lick of trouble. Recently, the Ranger started running like chitty-chitty-bang-bang, I suspected water in the fuel and added dry gas with no luck.
    The Ranger acts like it isn't getting fuel and I have to keep the engine revved up to keep it from stalling. Once I get it rolling, it still bucks and jumps occasionally. I'm living on a very tight fixed income so I can't just drive it to a garage and have it diagnosed with the computer error codes.
    Is changing the fuel filter or 02 sensor worth a try, or should I wait until I can have a computer put on it?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If the Check Engine Light isn't on, 'putting it on a computer' may not tell you anything. If it has set a 'soft' code that has reset itself, it might be helpful if the code is still in history. But if a sensor is seeing a critical problem, it will have the Check Engine light turned on.

    A fuel filter replacement might help.

    At 7 years old, you might also need new plug wires and/or plugs.

    At about this age, on my 94 I started to hear ignition noise over the radio, even the FM radio. It only had about 50,000 miles, but it was about 7 or so years old. The truck still ran fine, but when you hear ignition noise on the radio, you have to know the wires are breaking down. A new set of wires and plugs stopped the noise.
  • ditto on the plugs and wires. i have an 01 that had them replaced when I bought the truck used at 24,000. It now has 98,000 and started missing occasionally after rough idling for about a year. decided to check a plug and see how it looked and the wire fell apart as I removed it and the plug was completely shot. I checked the gap (supposed to ..052-.056 or something) and it was almost at .145 and looked terrible. I blame the crap gas we have around here.

    after a new set of plugs and wires she runs great again and gas mileage jumped from 15 mpg up to 19 mpg overnight.
  • just replaced fuel pump and filter... now, above 35 miles per hour or on incline truck losses power but does not stall. any suggestions ?
  • haulthault Posts: 122
    ford had a class action lawsuit in california. there is an electronic part near the distributor on many ford vehicles from at least the 1980's through around 2000. when it gets overheated the circuit shorts and causes the engine to die. After it cools down the circuit is complete and vehicle runs again. The part is inexpensive.
  • I have a 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 4 cylinder stander w/325,000 miles truck loose power when the outside temperature reach 100 degrees, then it start to stalled. I have done a tune-up and replace fuelpump and fuel filter,Air filer and Air mass censer. the problem corrects itself in the morning when is cool then it runs normal.

    only when is hot outside is when truck stalled and rough idle
    any suggestions.. :cry:
    thanks
    felix
  • you may have carbon build up I have sea form motor treatment and it help. hope this helps

    felix
  • driving down the road at any speed the truck will just die out but it does not have any problem of starting up and keeping on going tried replacing the coil pack and that didnt do it, i need help have afeeling im gonna spend more money than is needed...
  • I had a 94 Ranger, starting missing bad,went to AutoZone,I put on a new
    Mas Airflow Sensor.Runs great now,NO miss!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, on Cad Northstar, this symptom many times means the Crank Position Sensor is bad.
  • I have a 94 ranger xlt 2.3 and when i get up and start it cold it starts up fine but as soon as i drive it and if i stall the vehicle will not start it takes about 2-3 min before starting it will go but not turnover after getting it to start then none of my signals work or my hazard light work. Then later on the signals will work. Any ideals as why it doesnt start right up after stall and why my signaland hazard lights stop working temporarly.
  • I have a 99 Ranger that stalls when hot. Hault says that a inexpensive part near the distributor is the culprit. The problem is My car does not have a distributor. Can someone help? Pulidore
  • i have a 94 ranger 3.0 has 160xxx miles. ive owned it since 97 with only 40xxx miles. never had any trouble out of it. but last month i was driving home and i stopped to wait to turn and it died on me and wouldnt start back. the next mourning i went out and started right up, so i took it down the road and back and when i got home i shut it off and it wouldnt start back unless i let it sit for bout 5 hours, after that happend ive replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, coil, cap, and rotor button, mas, its getting spark and its getting fuel, ive checked all fusses and relays under the hood and under dash. what else can i do
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Fuel pump relay goes bad, making intermittent contact. Switch the relays around, they are the same, or buy a new one for the fuel pump. These relays are a know problem on Rangers.

    Fuel pump itself is going bad and dropping fuel pressure.

    There is a 'rollover' fuel cutoff sensor which may be going bad. Its under the edge of the carpet on the right side (passenger) of the 'tunnel'. It's also got a reset button on top of it. Check connections here.

    There is a crank position sensor. If it goes bad, the truck stops dead. This is a problem on certain years of Cadillacs - when it fails, it fails so fast the car will not set error code, but it will crank and run later.

    Just a few wild guesses......
  • I am so sorry to hear that everyone has such problems with thier Rangers.I own a 97 ranger which i bought used in 98.It currently has 268358 miles on it and running just fine.I have studied auto mechanics since i was about 7 i do all my own repair work and have since we bought the truck.I haven't had to do anything major to it since i've owned it,basic maintence,oil change,plugs and wires,belts and hoses and only once right after it hit 100000 miles i had to replace the timing belt.All in all i really love my truck.
  • i have a 1993 ranger and a 2006 i have had no trouble out of my 1993 outside of basic maintenance and i have owned it for 8 years :) on the other hand my 2006 i have had for 6 months and my engine stalled :mad: on me the other day on the way to work going about 50 mph it wouldent start i had to get it towed home and let it set for a few days and it started no problem im going to replace the fuel pump relay and i will keep everyone updated if this solves the problem
  • Hi fellow rangers, :)

    [ 1986 Ford Ranger/2.3L gas/5 speed OD/128,745 Miles/ California ]

    Ok, This is my "unlucky every other year" SMOG TEST ONLY where I diligently replace my air filter,spark plugs, cap and rotor, (fuel cap, if needed).

    The night before doing these changes, I drove to the auto wash stall where I waited for my engine to cool down before spraying Gunk Engine Brite, to clean, to make my work a little more enjoyable, and yes, I did cover the distributor coil, distributor cap, and any other components I did not want to get wet. I was very careful not to use extreme pressure around the aluminum, bendable manifold tubing, which could easily break and water would get down into the engine. I've done the same thing every other year since this SMOG TEST ONLY came into effect without any problems before. (California)

    The day after, I took a drive to the store about a mile away and noticed an extreme stalling where I had to keep gas revved up so it wouldn't stall. I could come to a light signal, and without the gas to the pedal, it would just die. I was really afraid I’d get stuck there.

    I don't remember doing anything out of the ordinary this time, except TWO THINGS, (1) the plugs I bought were Autolite Platinum (AP5145) and were supposed to be pre-gapped to .44, and I checked only one, which was fine. and (2) A few days earlier I bought a 12oz. can of OCTANE BOOST gas additive I added to half a gas tank. I know it's bad to use these additives ,but on occasion, I usually go with a fuel injector additive. I am the original owner of this truck, and have been told it's only worth $500.00, so what can I lose, but thinking about it now, these 4-banger trucks don't do good with the higher octane, that's why the REGULAR gas is better than the PREMIUM, Ummmmm....could this be one of the problems? Maybe I should filler up right away to "water down" that octane booster...don't know what the heck I was thinking????? :eyes:
    A few years ago, I did replace my fuel relay switch, and maybe a fuel sensor, but believe me, this truck was running much better before I did all this replacement of the Cap, Rotor, and plugs. The (expensive) spark plug wires I bought two years ago and they looked fine inside each plug wire.

    So for the life of me, I don't know where to look, because this could turn out to be a costly and timely process of elimination. Any ideas?

    So I guess I should always check my spark gap, regardless of what I buy. How long should the Fuel sensor or relay last? I will go check my vacuum lines and firing order on the dist. cap.

    Sorry about the winded reply, I'll post back after I do these tasks. Do you think I have to remove the plugs again and recheck the gaps? Thanks again!

    I called the auto parts store and they told me those plugs and Cap/Rotor are the correct application..BUT he told me to pull the plugs and check to see if the tips are either real black or white, fouled out because of the concentrated octane booster in a half of tank of gas.
    ALSO, Instead of autolite (AP5145) Platinum plugs, I should have gone with Motorcraft, not autolite.

    Any would be much appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day! :thumb:

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    bozo4ford
    Post subject: Re: 1986 Ranger 2.3L Pre smog test R&R Plugs, now stalling out??
    PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:48 pm
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    Truck: 1986 Ford Ranger
    Update Monday FEB. 8th, 1:00PM PST -

    I pulled each of the autolite plugs and did not notice any white or black carbon, checked the gap,1,2,and 4th plug was gapped to .44, but the #3 plug was more than .44. A few years back I also replaced my distributor module with a FORD part.

    I looked at the dist. coil plug wire and noticed some green oxidation on the coil tip, got some sandpaper, rolled it up, and stuck it inside the coil plug to clean the terminal inside, blew it out with air...that was a few days ago, and now it was more oxidation, could that mean I should try to replace just the Dist coil plug wire? I certainly don't want to buy all new plug wires.

    There is a module that is on a metal slider between the air filter assembly and the truck body with a Black base with a white top connector w/4 wires ( 2 red,1 yellow,and one black) coming from a harness,and into that connector,(Part Number #E98b-2C013...I think) which the wires going into this piece looks pretty corrosive,and the locking connector with the (I think) fuel relay looks fine. is there anyway to get just the harness side, clip the 4 wires and replace this assembly piece" I took a picture,but no way to post the pic here.

    In the same area, between the air filter assembly and the side of the truck next to a rectangular part # E7EF9F479-A2A, which I think is the Sensor Assembly for the manifold Absolute pressure module) is another one of these boxes with a Blue-ish green base and a black top with 1Black,3 yellow, and 1 red wire. There are no numbers on this.

    So I'm tooling around looking for what might be a problem causing all this stalling and rough idling....I'll check in periodically. Thanks!
  • Hiya –
    Sunday 2- 14-2010

    The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
    towers is what I have now.

    TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
    TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
    BOTTOM RIGHT #1
    BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

    It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
    I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.

    My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.

    I’m going to get a gas can and go get some fresh gas to add.
    I thought this truck had two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine
    Compartment. I called pep Boys and Kragen and both told me there is only one, in the Rail, but maybe I will need to go to a mechanic,because the Chilton book sounds involved for just the lay person.

    1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L
    EFI
    4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
    Mileage – 151,4672
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